car misfires w/ black plugs. too rich?
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
car misfires w/ black plugs. too rich?
I’ve been having this problem for a while now. If I drive my car nice and slow it seems to run decent, but if I try to 'get on it' a little it just starts misfiring and hesitating like crazy and I cannot accelerate at all. All my spark plugs are black as charcoal so I thought I was running rich.
Specs:
I’m running the Bosch platinum 2 prong spark plugs (I know )
Carbed L98
Holley 4776 600cfm carburetor
Edelbrock performer intake manifold
Holley blue electric fuel pump
Running at 6.5 - 7 PSI fuel pressure at the carburetor.
New cap, rotor, pickup and coil on the vacuum advance distributor.
I have the vacuum advance hooked up, but my PCV isn't hooked up on either valve covers (this carburetor only has one 3/8 vacuum port and I’m using it for the brakes)
Also:
I originally had an edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) w/ elec. choke on it before and it was giving me the same problems. I thought it was the carburetor and since this one was old I bought a new one. However the same problems are still present
My auto shop teacher at school said that I may need some hotter burning spark plugs and/or MSD ignition or something similar. what do you guys think?
Specs:
I’m running the Bosch platinum 2 prong spark plugs (I know )
Carbed L98
Holley 4776 600cfm carburetor
Edelbrock performer intake manifold
Holley blue electric fuel pump
Running at 6.5 - 7 PSI fuel pressure at the carburetor.
New cap, rotor, pickup and coil on the vacuum advance distributor.
I have the vacuum advance hooked up, but my PCV isn't hooked up on either valve covers (this carburetor only has one 3/8 vacuum port and I’m using it for the brakes)
Also:
I originally had an edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) w/ elec. choke on it before and it was giving me the same problems. I thought it was the carburetor and since this one was old I bought a new one. However the same problems are still present
My auto shop teacher at school said that I may need some hotter burning spark plugs and/or MSD ignition or something similar. what do you guys think?
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Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
are you sure your sparkplugs are the right ones for your vehicle? do you have an oil leak that is covering your sparkplugs, causing them to not fire?
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Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
This sounds similar to the condition my camaro was in. What I did to fix it was to replace the plug wires (they were looking bad and stock) with accell superstock spiral (yes msd/taylor wires may be better but you don't have to spend that level of cash!)
Also changed plugs from NGK BPR6FS to NGK UR4 This made them the correct heat rating for the engine. and got them to the required gap of 45thou
After that it runs very sweetly. You should not need a MSD ignition module. If you've got the cash to spare then sure they should improve the gas mileage.
One question I would have is the black you mention on the plugs, is it on all the plugs and is it oily or more like charcoal? If its oily then you have a gasket problem, perhaps. If its charcoal, then I'd get the ignition working well first then consider mixtures.
Si.
Also changed plugs from NGK BPR6FS to NGK UR4 This made them the correct heat rating for the engine. and got them to the required gap of 45thou
After that it runs very sweetly. You should not need a MSD ignition module. If you've got the cash to spare then sure they should improve the gas mileage.
One question I would have is the black you mention on the plugs, is it on all the plugs and is it oily or more like charcoal? If its oily then you have a gasket problem, perhaps. If its charcoal, then I'd get the ignition working well first then consider mixtures.
Si.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by iroc-si
This sounds similar to the condition my camaro was in. What I did to fix it was to replace the plug wires (they were looking bad and stock) with accell superstock spiral (yes msd/taylor wires may be better but you don't have to spend that level of cash!)
Also changed plugs from NGK BPR6FS to NGK UR4 This made them the correct heat rating for the engine. and got them to the required gap of 45thou
After that it runs very sweetly. You should not need a MSD ignition module. If you've got the cash to spare then sure they should improve the gas mileage.
One question I would have is the black you mention on the plugs, is it on all the plugs and is it oily or more like charcoal? If its oily then you have a gasket problem, perhaps. If its charcoal, then I'd get the ignition working well first then consider mixtures.
Si.
This sounds similar to the condition my camaro was in. What I did to fix it was to replace the plug wires (they were looking bad and stock) with accell superstock spiral (yes msd/taylor wires may be better but you don't have to spend that level of cash!)
Also changed plugs from NGK BPR6FS to NGK UR4 This made them the correct heat rating for the engine. and got them to the required gap of 45thou
After that it runs very sweetly. You should not need a MSD ignition module. If you've got the cash to spare then sure they should improve the gas mileage.
One question I would have is the black you mention on the plugs, is it on all the plugs and is it oily or more like charcoal? If its oily then you have a gasket problem, perhaps. If its charcoal, then I'd get the ignition working well first then consider mixtures.
Si.
my current spark plugs are undoubtedly charcoal black (texture and color). i believe i've got the mixture screws as far down as the engine will go..
ya know, i got these spark plugs from autozone and they pobably gave me the wrong ones
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
The Bosch +2's I picked up at AZ are factory set at .045 gap and should/cannot be regapped closer or farther apart. You may try getting ACDelco plugs (hey, just over $1 each, can't hurt!). Also check your O2 sensor as it may need to be replaced and may be giving out a bad signal. Last but not least, check the vapor can. If it is leaking, you are in trouble! If the leak is serious enough, you can be getting gas in your oil and are on the verge of needing all new bearings, rings, possibly a crank, etc... I know.. this happened to me when I replaced the vac lines with good ones .
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Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
The NGK UR4 plugs are 100% stock heat rating for a 305 or 350. They are fairly simple plain plugs. Over the AC delco plugs and a NGK BPR4FS the UR4 plugs have this V groove which I cannot dispute as being an improvment (done the time in a high voltage lab playing with electrode shapes, to know first hand!) with little or no side effects in a near stock engine.
Anyway, AC delco or NGK are the way to go to avoid having any issues, and at $1-$2 a shot they ain't exactly expensive.
Si.
Anyway, AC delco or NGK are the way to go to avoid having any issues, and at $1-$2 a shot they ain't exactly expensive.
Si.
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#9
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Maverick H1L
The Bosch +2's I picked up at AZ are factory set at .045 gap and should/cannot be regapped closer or farther apart. You may try getting ACDelco plugs (hey, just over $1 each, can't hurt!). Also check your O2 sensor as it may need to be replaced and may be giving out a bad signal. Last but not least, check the vapor can. If it is leaking, you are in trouble! If the leak is serious enough, you can be getting gas in your oil and are on the verge of needing all new bearings, rings, possibly a crank, etc... I know.. this happened to me when I replaced the vac lines with good ones .
The Bosch +2's I picked up at AZ are factory set at .045 gap and should/cannot be regapped closer or farther apart. You may try getting ACDelco plugs (hey, just over $1 each, can't hurt!). Also check your O2 sensor as it may need to be replaced and may be giving out a bad signal. Last but not least, check the vapor can. If it is leaking, you are in trouble! If the leak is serious enough, you can be getting gas in your oil and are on the verge of needing all new bearings, rings, possibly a crank, etc... I know.. this happened to me when I replaced the vac lines with good ones .
Originally posted by robvas
Try a different carb or have yours rebuilt by someone who really knows
Try a different carb or have yours rebuilt by someone who really knows
Originally posted by iroc-si
The NGK UR4 plugs are 100% stock heat rating for a 305 or 350. They are fairly simple plain plugs. Over the AC delco plugs and a NGK BPR4FS the UR4 plugs have this V groove which I cannot dispute as being an improvment (done the time in a high voltage lab playing with electrode shapes, to know first hand!) with little or no side effects in a near stock engine.
Anyway, AC delco or NGK are the way to go to avoid having any issues, and at $1-$2 a shot they ain't exactly expensive.
Si.
The NGK UR4 plugs are 100% stock heat rating for a 305 or 350. They are fairly simple plain plugs. Over the AC delco plugs and a NGK BPR4FS the UR4 plugs have this V groove which I cannot dispute as being an improvment (done the time in a high voltage lab playing with electrode shapes, to know first hand!) with little or no side effects in a near stock engine.
Anyway, AC delco or NGK are the way to go to avoid having any issues, and at $1-$2 a shot they ain't exactly expensive.
Si.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by plumminfool
is it in time?
is it in time?
#12
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
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i bought the NGK UR4 spark plugs today. do i have to regap them to .45?
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-20-2004 at 09:51 AM.
#13
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
ok i put the NGK's in and i still have this problem unless i run with the choke WIDE open. anything else and i get massive stumble. even with the choke open completely THE POWER JUST ISNT THERE. my buddies 86 irocz 305 (bone stock except a edelbrock 600cfm carb) has way more power than my car (mine is a 350). i thought of possibly the rear end gearing of my car (2.77 i believe) not really helping out either since my car came auto stock (now it is manual)
sorry to spit out all this info at you guys but im really stumped.do you guys think that i need a cam better suited for carburation? technically this is still a L98 (except now it's carbureted) so maybe the L98 cam is giving me troubles???
sorry to spit out all this info at you guys but im really stumped.do you guys think that i need a cam better suited for carburation? technically this is still a L98 (except now it's carbureted) so maybe the L98 cam is giving me troubles???
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-20-2004 at 12:35 PM.
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
i'd post a similar question on the carb board for the best answers.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by xpndbl3
i'd post a similar question on the carb board for the best answers.
i'd post a similar question on the carb board for the best answers.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=220518
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-20-2004 at 01:07 PM.
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
sounds like you need a jet kit. put in leaner jets, and it'll give back some power. watch your plugs and they should turn a brownish/tanish tint when you get close. not a big deal....what jets are in it now?
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by xpndbl3
sounds like you need a jet kit. put in leaner jets, and it'll give back some power. watch your plugs and they should turn a brownish/tanish tint when you get close. not a big deal....what jets are in it now?
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
sounds like you need a jet kit. put in leaner jets, and it'll give back some power. watch your plugs and they should turn a brownish/tanish tint when you get close. not a big deal....what jets are in it now?
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
my buddy is running a 600cfm edel. carb on his 305 and i dont think he changed the jets
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-21-2004 at 10:26 AM.
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Car: 84 TA
Engine: 305 L69
Transmission: T5
Never messed around with the jets in a car before, but motorcycles are very sensitive to jetting changes due to different temps, elevation, humidity and fuel quality. Makes sense that tuning a car carb could provide improved performance.
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Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
600 Eddie shouldn't be too much for a 350 under any circumstance.
Sounds like a possible weak spark condition. Coil, perhaps.
Sounds like a possible weak spark condition. Coil, perhaps.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
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well theres 2 small screws on the sides of my carb...i turned them in until the engine started dying out...then i turned them out until it idled smoothly.
i agree it may be there is a weak ignition problem somewhere...but i couldve sworn i just replaced the coil a month or two ago...perhaps they gave me a weaker coil that just happens to fit??
ive done so much work to this car its hard to remember what i've replaced and/or fixed lol
do you guys think i can switch over to those systems where the coil is seperate from the cap? like if i get one of those MSD blaster coils and the cap that has the plug in the center? right now i have the HEI setup with the coil directly on top of the cap.
i agree it may be there is a weak ignition problem somewhere...but i couldve sworn i just replaced the coil a month or two ago...perhaps they gave me a weaker coil that just happens to fit??
ive done so much work to this car its hard to remember what i've replaced and/or fixed lol
do you guys think i can switch over to those systems where the coil is seperate from the cap? like if i get one of those MSD blaster coils and the cap that has the plug in the center? right now i have the HEI setup with the coil directly on top of the cap.
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-21-2004 at 08:37 PM.
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: vortec 355 hsr
Transmission: wct5
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platnum plugs are bad for cars not meant to run them, because they take more voltage to fire then regular plugs
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
sounds like you need to buy a jet kit like i already stated. go buy a book on holley carb tuning from your local border's or barnes and nobles and go from there. all carbs need to be tuned from out of the box.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
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Originally posted by xpndbl3
sounds like you need to buy a jet kit like i already stated. go buy a book on holley carb tuning from your local border's or barnes and nobles and go from there. all carbs need to be tuned from out of the box.
sounds like you need to buy a jet kit like i already stated. go buy a book on holley carb tuning from your local border's or barnes and nobles and go from there. all carbs need to be tuned from out of the box.
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xpndbl3 i found the holley carb turning book at b&n. i read through it but i didnt buy it because it was like $25 .
also, i put on an accel 45,000 volt coil, and it did NOTHING.
also, i put on an accel 45,000 volt coil, and it did NOTHING.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
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Originally posted by xpndbl3
sounds like you need a jet kit. put in leaner jets, and it'll give back some power. watch your plugs and they should turn a brownish/tanish tint when you get close. not a big deal....what jets are in it now?
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
sounds like you need a jet kit. put in leaner jets, and it'll give back some power. watch your plugs and they should turn a brownish/tanish tint when you get close. not a big deal....what jets are in it now?
i'd start with the primaries and go from there. i picked up a BUNCH of power SOTP by leaning it out some, since my plugs were BLACK. also check out your idle vacuum to make sure it's normal and not bouncing around at all. PLus you might need a different power valve based on your idle vacuum in gear.
Holley Mechanical Secondary Double Pumper Carb (600cfm / Manual Choke)
Primary Main Jet: .070"
Secondary Main Jet: .076"
Single-Stage Power Valve: Opening Vacuum: 6.5'' Hg.
Primary Discharge Nozzle Size: .025"
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
i'm running 66/76 on a 305 right now. so it all depends on the motor, my 305 is about 300HP though so take that into account. are your idle screws set right as well?
#30
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
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Originally posted by xpndbl3
i'm running 66/76 on a 305 right now. so it all depends on the motor, my 305 is about 300HP though so take that into account. are your idle screws set right as well?
i'm running 66/76 on a 305 right now. so it all depends on the motor, my 305 is about 300HP though so take that into account. are your idle screws set right as well?
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Car: 1984 Z28
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Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
seriously....a book would help you out with ALL of these questions. go to holley.com and they have a tuning section as well.
basically you jet down 2 sizes at a time until the plugs start to look tanish-greyish, or clean, not black and sooty like that look now --ie to rich.
basically you jet down 2 sizes at a time until the plugs start to look tanish-greyish, or clean, not black and sooty like that look now --ie to rich.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
Haven't seen any mention of checking the float levels or fuel pressure.
high FP or too high float levels can flood the carb and cause it to run rich.
What is your FP at?
and have you checked the level in the float bowls?
Hodge
high FP or too high float levels can flood the carb and cause it to run rich.
What is your FP at?
and have you checked the level in the float bowls?
Hodge
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Hodge
Haven't seen any mention of checking the float levels or fuel pressure.
high FP or too high float levels can flood the carb and cause it to run rich.
What is your FP at?
and have you checked the level in the float bowls?
Hodge
Haven't seen any mention of checking the float levels or fuel pressure.
high FP or too high float levels can flood the carb and cause it to run rich.
What is your FP at?
and have you checked the level in the float bowls?
Hodge
the carb is brand new so the floats should be ok. one thing though, i went to take off the fuel level plugs but the car stalled out...why is that?
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Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
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Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 7.625 10 bolt/3.73s
Originally posted by Trans_AM_88
...but i didnt buy it because it was like $25...
...but i didnt buy it because it was like $25...
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
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Originally posted by Hodge
I gotta lean back towards weak spark then.
not sure about that stalling thing
I gotta lean back towards weak spark then.
not sure about that stalling thing
Originally posted by PLANT PROTECTION
I tighten up on a $25 book too. Go to your local library.
I tighten up on a $25 book too. Go to your local library.
Last edited by Trans_AM_88; 02-29-2004 at 11:31 AM.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
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ok guys i took it to my dads friend who is a mechanic and he said my carb that is on there now is too big . can i just put smaller jets in, or is carb really too big?
Holley Mechanical Secondaries 600cfm double pumper on a stock L98 5.7 liter engine.
Holley Mechanical Secondaries 600cfm double pumper on a stock L98 5.7 liter engine.
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I had the same problem. I put a holley 750vs on my stock L98.
I had the black soot on the plugs and the hesitation. I ended up changing the jets. I also checked the vaccum and ended up changing to a 8.5 powervalve. You also need to check the float levels. Just because it is new and right out of the box, dont mean it will be right for your car. They just give you a starting point.
I also ended up going up in size with the shooter. takes out some of the hesitation.
You also need to check for vaccum leaks around the carb base and the intake.
Between different jets, correct powervalve, float adjustment, air screw adjustment and timing, you should be fine.
Let us know what you find out.
I had the black soot on the plugs and the hesitation. I ended up changing the jets. I also checked the vaccum and ended up changing to a 8.5 powervalve. You also need to check the float levels. Just because it is new and right out of the box, dont mean it will be right for your car. They just give you a starting point.
I also ended up going up in size with the shooter. takes out some of the hesitation.
You also need to check for vaccum leaks around the carb base and the intake.
Between different jets, correct powervalve, float adjustment, air screw adjustment and timing, you should be fine.
Let us know what you find out.
Last edited by bluegrassz; 03-03-2004 at 01:29 PM.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
hey guys, i just talked to my mechanic and he said that i have a 750cfm holley on my car...jegs sent me the wrong carb . im going to call them right now...im pissed
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
a 750 is still fine on your SBC, i have a 305 and i have a 750 on it. it's not the carb, it's you not tuning it right.
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Originally posted by Trans_AM_88
hey guys, i just talked to my mechanic and he said that i have a 750cfm holley on my car...jegs sent me the wrong carb . im going to call them right now...im pissed
hey guys, i just talked to my mechanic and he said that i have a 750cfm holley on my car...jegs sent me the wrong carb . im going to call them right now...im pissed
You just need to tune the carb. Either buy a book, find a friend with good tuning abilities, or learn for yourself. It is not that hard.
How much vaccum is the carb pulling?
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by xpndbl3
a 750 is still fine on your SBC, i have a 305 and i have a 750 on it. it's not the carb, it's you not tuning it right.
a 750 is still fine on your SBC, i have a 305 and i have a 750 on it. it's not the carb, it's you not tuning it right.
blue, can you list exact specs of what you changed on your carb?
i dont know how much vacuum im pulling. how do i check this?
#44
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Originally posted by Trans_AM_88
yeah but read bluegrassz's post...he had to change a lot of parts on his. but then again, seeing as me and bluegrassz have stock L98's, cant i just skip the guessing and get the same size jets, powervalve, and shooter that he has?
blue, can you list exact specs of what you changed on your carb?
i dont know how much vacuum im pulling. how do i check this?
yeah but read bluegrassz's post...he had to change a lot of parts on his. but then again, seeing as me and bluegrassz have stock L98's, cant i just skip the guessing and get the same size jets, powervalve, and shooter that he has?
blue, can you list exact specs of what you changed on your carb?
i dont know how much vacuum im pulling. how do i check this?
I installed a metering block in the back of my 750vs for jet adjustment. You have a mechanical so no worries. I used 74 in front and 76 in back. This is for cool weather keep in mind. You may need 72 front and 74 back, this would be a good start.
You have a 25 squirter in right now, change to either a 28 or 30. This should help with the hesitation.
Check your float levels. With the car level, pull each site plug out and see if fuel flows out. if it does, its to high. The fuel should trickle out when the car is shook. It should be just below the bottom of the site plugs. You can get clear ones to make it easier.
After these changes, you should be able to adjust the timing between 8* and 12* base timing.
this should get you in a ball park.
let us know the results and good luck.
Last edited by bluegrassz; 03-04-2004 at 07:45 AM.
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
ok, ill get a vacuum reading when i can. with the float levels, i tried checking them put as soon as i pulled the plug off the car stalled...so i just checked it with the car off, and they were fine.
#46
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Originally posted by Trans_AM_88
ok, ill get a vacuum reading when i can. with the float levels, i tried checking them put as soon as i pulled the plug off the car stalled...so i just checked it with the car off, and they were fine.
ok, ill get a vacuum reading when i can. with the float levels, i tried checking them put as soon as i pulled the plug off the car stalled...so i just checked it with the car off, and they were fine.
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Car: '87 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Like most everyone else suggested, I also agree its the carb out of tune. I know theres a huge difference between the two, but I'm going to use my carb as an example. CC Qjet. Had it rebuilt (myself) this winter, along with new heads. Had the topend of the motor completely apart, so I had nowhere to start off here. Slapped the carb on, it ran (idled) pretty rough, but got the base timing set in where I wanted it. Took it up the road and it would sputter and cough and not go worth a crap. I started off with the rich/lean stops almost all the way out, so it was PIG rich. Ran like complete poo. I now have it adjusted down to where it should be, no hesitation, great throttle response, and nice performance. It's all in the tune man. I'd say it needs to be leaned out big-time. Go with these guys' opinions, they know more about your carb than I do, I'm just trying to illustrate how my problem was similar to yours until I got it dialed in, and now it runs pretty dang good.
-Ben
-Ben
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
well its all fixed guys. i got it back from the mechanic today and WOW. so much power!! he put in new jets, 64 and 72. and he said he cut something in half (dunno what he said it was a term i was unfamiliar with) and he fixed the linkage for the secondaries to kick in later. damn this car is a beast again!!!!
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by PLANT PROTECTION
Sounds good, unfortuately you needed to pay someone tho.
Sounds good, unfortuately you needed to pay someone tho.