T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.
03-15-2004, 07:31 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.
auto to manual part: cutting the shifter hole in the floor.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
some sharp tinsnips cut thru the floor pan like butter... litterly like cutting paper... its amazing how thin it is.
im assuming like me, you had a auto shifter in there.
heres how i did mine:
put the bellhousing on. measure on the trans from where it meets the bellhousing to where the center of the shifter is.
drill a large hole so you can see and have a place to start cutting from. i used the same holesaw that i used to make the firewall hole for the master cyl.
take the shifter off the trans... place several rags in the shifter hole, and then one over it... this will keep dirt and metal shavings out of the trans. you cannot have the shifter on, it will hit the floorpan.
then install it on the bell housing.
now using your hole from the top you can start cutting to get a general shape of the rectangle needed for the shifter to come thru. using a jack raise the trans until its almost on the floorpan, then you can eyeball ti really close.
but cut short. make the hole smaller then needed.
then raise the trans again and slowly trim back.
when you're done, it should be centerd, but with a little extra room all around to account for trans movement.
now as you start this, you'll begin to see how the spot welded auto shift mount is in the way.. to remove it you have to drill the spotwelds out... i just used a close size drill bit... center the bit over the spot weld (little circle indentation) and drill... once thats out, use a wedge or somthign and pry/ bend it out of the way.
as long as yuo drill out the welds, it should be easy.
i cut mine off only where needed... the other spot welds thatdont cover the hole i left... i didnt want extra holes in the floorpan
auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
where does the hole go? look at your replacement manual pedals... see the 2 holes that are by the clutch.. kinda low? the U bolt goes thru the master cyl.. then thru the firewall, then thru thoes holes.
to make the hole, remove the auto pedals, and install the manual ones with one or two bolts on the brake booster... if you have 4thgen pedals, see the next part:" installing 4thgen pedals in a 3rdgen"
now that the pedals are mocked in place, drill the two holes out by the clutch... these are the two holes you will be using to hole the master cyl on.
now take your Ubolt and shove it into a piece of cardboard.
hope that helps.
auto to manual part: Wiring
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
the wiring for the automatic is on the shifter... looking at the automatic shifter, you'll see a big black box on the side... theres a connector on the front.
the wires im reffering to are from this connector.
to plug in the wires to the trans, you will need the proper weatherpack connectors... i got my connectors off a friends trashed engine harness that he was throwing out... you can get yours from a junkyard, or buy the connectors... just be sure to get the ones you need. they're all 2 prong connectors, but diffrent shapes and sizes.
to run the wires to the trans, take the plug thats on your automatic shifter cable... cut a slit from the outside to the middle hole.
slip all your wires thru the slit into the grommet, then put the grommet/plug into its orignal hole... this both solves the thru floor wire problem, and keeps that hole sealed.
the first two wires you will need will be your starter saftey kill wires. they are the two large wires on the connector. you need to extend them to the clutch pedal... where the clutch pedal meets the firewall, there should be a switch. this switch gets pressed when the clutch is to the floor. connect the two wires to this switch.. you must have the clutch in to start the car.
next two wires are your backup lights.
next to where the large wires were on the connector...
early thirdgens(i believe pre 90) have blue and blue with dark blue striped wires. later ones have green and blue wires.
connect these wires to the plug on the pass side of the trans... this will be the only plug on the passenger side of the trans.
the last two wires on the connector are for the ECM... you want to leave them seperated.. not touching each other.. they are what tell the ECM that its in park or nutural... but we want it to think its in gear all the time because its a manual.
the next part is the reverse lockout.
if you look under the dash at your brake switch, you will see 3 wires. mine were yellow, somthing (red i think) and blue. connect a thick wire to either of the outer wires... i used 12gauge wire.. this wire will have power whenever the brake is on.
take one more piece of 12 gauge and put it to a solid ground. i used the same ground as somthing else used under the center console... its nothing more then a screw that goes into a piece thats spot welded to the floor... but its a good ground.
now hook the two wires up to the connector that goes to the reverselockout noid... this is the connector thats right next to the shifter on the drivers side. up at the top rear of the trans.
make sure nothing is shorted, then reconnect the battery.
with the brake off, it should be hard to put into reverse... if its not, shift thru the gears, then try again until its hard... you may have to rock the trans back and forth.
once its locked out and hard to shift to reverse, press the brake in. there should be a click, and it should go easily into reverse.
if it does not, you have the wires hooked up backwards... swap the wires where they go into the connector and try again.
speed sensor:
im picking up my SGI box tonight from a friend, so i dont have it wired up yet, but i will post when i do.
if you drive the car without the VSS, eventually the SES light will come on, and give a faulty VSS code... dont worry about it for now, but you should hook up the VSS eventually.... with it throwing a code, you'll never knwo when somthing else goes wrong andl throws a diffrent code.
old automatic wiring:
i currently have it ziptied to the trans... the VSS connector will most likly be moved up under the console for SGI box hookup, and the TQ converter lockup will probly remain ziptied under the car... im not certin since i havent hooked up the SGI box.. i will post when i do.
Misc Tips.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
spohns crossmember with the DS loop using stock TQ arm....
you'll have to grind the fudge out of the loop to keep from hitting the TQ arm.... either get his TQ arm, or dont get the loop waste of $40
slipping the trans in:
have the rear of the car jacked as high as it will possibly go. i placed my jack stands on the LCA mounts, and set them to the 2nd highest notch.
put the front up only high enough for you to work under the car.
the reasoning behind this is it makes the motor more level... and that means its easier to balance the trans on a floor jack to slip it in.
draining the trans fluid:
the plug is in the very rear of the trans, on the passenger side, under the shifter at the bottom... hard to see. drain it there, REINSTALL THE PLUG, then install the trans.
to add fluid
ignore the "fill plug"
take the shifter off, and pour 4 quarts off dextron II or III ATF in the shifter hole....dont worry, its designed to do this.
scrape off the existing silicone from the shifter and trans, and puts some black permatex RTV on it... why black? because you most likely got a lil ATF on the edge, and black is the most oil resistant RTV.
then just slip the shifter back on.. and put the 4 bolts back in.. easy.
hope this helps some people
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
some sharp tinsnips cut thru the floor pan like butter... litterly like cutting paper... its amazing how thin it is.
im assuming like me, you had a auto shifter in there.
heres how i did mine:
put the bellhousing on. measure on the trans from where it meets the bellhousing to where the center of the shifter is.
drill a large hole so you can see and have a place to start cutting from. i used the same holesaw that i used to make the firewall hole for the master cyl.
take the shifter off the trans... place several rags in the shifter hole, and then one over it... this will keep dirt and metal shavings out of the trans. you cannot have the shifter on, it will hit the floorpan.
then install it on the bell housing.
now using your hole from the top you can start cutting to get a general shape of the rectangle needed for the shifter to come thru. using a jack raise the trans until its almost on the floorpan, then you can eyeball ti really close.
but cut short. make the hole smaller then needed.
then raise the trans again and slowly trim back.
when you're done, it should be centerd, but with a little extra room all around to account for trans movement.
now as you start this, you'll begin to see how the spot welded auto shift mount is in the way.. to remove it you have to drill the spotwelds out... i just used a close size drill bit... center the bit over the spot weld (little circle indentation) and drill... once thats out, use a wedge or somthign and pry/ bend it out of the way.
as long as yuo drill out the welds, it should be easy.
i cut mine off only where needed... the other spot welds thatdont cover the hole i left... i didnt want extra holes in the floorpan
auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
where does the hole go? look at your replacement manual pedals... see the 2 holes that are by the clutch.. kinda low? the U bolt goes thru the master cyl.. then thru the firewall, then thru thoes holes.
to make the hole, remove the auto pedals, and install the manual ones with one or two bolts on the brake booster... if you have 4thgen pedals, see the next part:" installing 4thgen pedals in a 3rdgen"
now that the pedals are mocked in place, drill the two holes out by the clutch... these are the two holes you will be using to hole the master cyl on.
now take your Ubolt and shove it into a piece of cardboard.
hope that helps.
auto to manual part: Wiring
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
the wiring for the automatic is on the shifter... looking at the automatic shifter, you'll see a big black box on the side... theres a connector on the front.
the wires im reffering to are from this connector.
to plug in the wires to the trans, you will need the proper weatherpack connectors... i got my connectors off a friends trashed engine harness that he was throwing out... you can get yours from a junkyard, or buy the connectors... just be sure to get the ones you need. they're all 2 prong connectors, but diffrent shapes and sizes.
to run the wires to the trans, take the plug thats on your automatic shifter cable... cut a slit from the outside to the middle hole.
slip all your wires thru the slit into the grommet, then put the grommet/plug into its orignal hole... this both solves the thru floor wire problem, and keeps that hole sealed.
the first two wires you will need will be your starter saftey kill wires. they are the two large wires on the connector. you need to extend them to the clutch pedal... where the clutch pedal meets the firewall, there should be a switch. this switch gets pressed when the clutch is to the floor. connect the two wires to this switch.. you must have the clutch in to start the car.
next two wires are your backup lights.
next to where the large wires were on the connector...
early thirdgens(i believe pre 90) have blue and blue with dark blue striped wires. later ones have green and blue wires.
connect these wires to the plug on the pass side of the trans... this will be the only plug on the passenger side of the trans.
the last two wires on the connector are for the ECM... you want to leave them seperated.. not touching each other.. they are what tell the ECM that its in park or nutural... but we want it to think its in gear all the time because its a manual.
the next part is the reverse lockout.
if you look under the dash at your brake switch, you will see 3 wires. mine were yellow, somthing (red i think) and blue. connect a thick wire to either of the outer wires... i used 12gauge wire.. this wire will have power whenever the brake is on.
take one more piece of 12 gauge and put it to a solid ground. i used the same ground as somthing else used under the center console... its nothing more then a screw that goes into a piece thats spot welded to the floor... but its a good ground.
now hook the two wires up to the connector that goes to the reverselockout noid... this is the connector thats right next to the shifter on the drivers side. up at the top rear of the trans.
make sure nothing is shorted, then reconnect the battery.
with the brake off, it should be hard to put into reverse... if its not, shift thru the gears, then try again until its hard... you may have to rock the trans back and forth.
once its locked out and hard to shift to reverse, press the brake in. there should be a click, and it should go easily into reverse.
if it does not, you have the wires hooked up backwards... swap the wires where they go into the connector and try again.
speed sensor:
im picking up my SGI box tonight from a friend, so i dont have it wired up yet, but i will post when i do.
if you drive the car without the VSS, eventually the SES light will come on, and give a faulty VSS code... dont worry about it for now, but you should hook up the VSS eventually.... with it throwing a code, you'll never knwo when somthing else goes wrong andl throws a diffrent code.
old automatic wiring:
i currently have it ziptied to the trans... the VSS connector will most likly be moved up under the console for SGI box hookup, and the TQ converter lockup will probly remain ziptied under the car... im not certin since i havent hooked up the SGI box.. i will post when i do.
Misc Tips.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
spohns crossmember with the DS loop using stock TQ arm....
you'll have to grind the fudge out of the loop to keep from hitting the TQ arm.... either get his TQ arm, or dont get the loop waste of $40
slipping the trans in:
have the rear of the car jacked as high as it will possibly go. i placed my jack stands on the LCA mounts, and set them to the 2nd highest notch.
put the front up only high enough for you to work under the car.
the reasoning behind this is it makes the motor more level... and that means its easier to balance the trans on a floor jack to slip it in.
draining the trans fluid:
the plug is in the very rear of the trans, on the passenger side, under the shifter at the bottom... hard to see. drain it there, REINSTALL THE PLUG, then install the trans.
to add fluid
ignore the "fill plug"
take the shifter off, and pour 4 quarts off dextron II or III ATF in the shifter hole....dont worry, its designed to do this.
scrape off the existing silicone from the shifter and trans, and puts some black permatex RTV on it... why black? because you most likely got a lil ATF on the edge, and black is the most oil resistant RTV.
then just slip the shifter back on.. and put the 4 bolts back in.. easy.
hope this helps some people
03-15-2004, 07:46 AM
#2
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Re: T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.
whoops, left a whole topic out:
Putting 4thgen pedals in a thirdgen
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
first off.. it was posted many many times that its a direct bolt in.
its NOT.
its ALMOST a bolt in... but you do need to drill.
first off... the 4 bolts that attach to the brake booster... the 3rdgen holes are larger...... so you need to drill out the holes on the pedal bracket..
2nd the gas pedal assembly is seperate from the rest of the pedals on a 3rdgen... 4thgen pedals have them as one piece.
you already have to take out the 2 nuts holding the steering column up so it drops down.... but the pedals still wont fit over the column because of the gas pedal.
to wedge the gas pedal over, you need to remove the pedal itself.. just pop the clip off and it slips out... its not too big of a PITA to put back on because the pivoit is low.
as far as the clutch pedal holes that double for the clutch master cyl, they're at a angle.... you can make them straight by tightning them.. because i was converting from a auto, i drilled the holes so they did line up... i still have to make one of the holes a little ovalish to allow the bolt to come thru when its at a angle.. as i tightened the bolt, the angle was flattened out... and it fit...i doubt it will just fit up to existing holes on a 3rdgen, but it should be close.
if i had a 2nd person to be underhood while i was under the dash, it wouldnt have been too bad, but its a PITA by yourself. enlist the help of a buddy if possible. the 2 person part is holding the u bolt for the clutch cyl up on the firewall while getting the angled clutch pedal bracket on it and the nut started.
overall id rate the entire experiance the same as a spark plug change.. a PITA but totally doable.. and once you've done it once, you can do it faster next time.
Putting 4thgen pedals in a thirdgen
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
first off.. it was posted many many times that its a direct bolt in.
its NOT.
its ALMOST a bolt in... but you do need to drill.
first off... the 4 bolts that attach to the brake booster... the 3rdgen holes are larger...... so you need to drill out the holes on the pedal bracket..
2nd the gas pedal assembly is seperate from the rest of the pedals on a 3rdgen... 4thgen pedals have them as one piece.
you already have to take out the 2 nuts holding the steering column up so it drops down.... but the pedals still wont fit over the column because of the gas pedal.
to wedge the gas pedal over, you need to remove the pedal itself.. just pop the clip off and it slips out... its not too big of a PITA to put back on because the pivoit is low.
as far as the clutch pedal holes that double for the clutch master cyl, they're at a angle.... you can make them straight by tightning them.. because i was converting from a auto, i drilled the holes so they did line up... i still have to make one of the holes a little ovalish to allow the bolt to come thru when its at a angle.. as i tightened the bolt, the angle was flattened out... and it fit...i doubt it will just fit up to existing holes on a 3rdgen, but it should be close.
if i had a 2nd person to be underhood while i was under the dash, it wouldnt have been too bad, but its a PITA by yourself. enlist the help of a buddy if possible. the 2 person part is holding the u bolt for the clutch cyl up on the firewall while getting the angled clutch pedal bracket on it and the nut started.
overall id rate the entire experiance the same as a spark plug change.. a PITA but totally doable.. and once you've done it once, you can do it faster next time.
03-15-2004, 11:42 AM
#3
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
Do not just dump 4 qts into the shifter hole. I believe the spec is 3.8qts and any more could potentially blow some seals out. An easy way I've found to do it is pull the fill plug and stick a hose in the hole. Run the hose up through the engine compartment and stick a funnel in the end and let gravity do its work when you pour the fluid in. It's full when the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole.
03-15-2004, 11:47 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Ukraine Train
Do not just dump 4 qts into the shifter hole. I believe the spec is 3.8qts and any more could potentially blow some seals out. An easy way I've found to do it is pull the fill plug and stick a hose in the hole. Run the hose up through the engine compartment and stick a funnel in the end and let gravity do its work when you pour the fluid in. It's full when the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole.
Do not just dump 4 qts into the shifter hole. I believe the spec is 3.8qts and any more could potentially blow some seals out. An easy way I've found to do it is pull the fill plug and stick a hose in the hole. Run the hose up through the engine compartment and stick a funnel in the end and let gravity do its work when you pour the fluid in. It's full when the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole.
the way i put is the same way everyone i know with a 4thgen that has a T56 does it... it wont hurt anything and 4 quarts is not overfilling it if you totally drained the trans.
but that is a alternate method of filling.... on auto --> T56 conversions, where the shifter cable went thru the floor is right above the fill plug... so you could do your hose/funnel thing there too.
03-15-2004, 12:11 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Just out of curiosity since mine was originally a v6, my tourque arm was backwards on the t56 mount. The fourthgens seem to be the opposite direction or was this the V8 thirdgen's as well?
03-15-2004, 12:27 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by pasky
Just out of curiosity since mine was originally a v6, my tourque arm was backwards on the t56 mount. The fourthgens seem to be the opposite direction or was this the V8 thirdgen's as well?
Just out of curiosity since mine was originally a v6, my tourque arm was backwards on the t56 mount. The fourthgens seem to be the opposite direction or was this the V8 thirdgen's as well?
early 3rdgens had the lips facing towards the trans... if you think of it as a "M" the bottom of the M faces the trans.
later 3rdgens and 4thgens have the M facing away from the trans.
because of this, i couldnt reuse my poly TQ arm mount from my 82 camaro.
03-15-2004, 12:27 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
As I recall it depends on the year, not the engine the car came with originally. They switched in the mid 80s somewhere.
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03-15-2004, 03:59 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by MrDude_1
early 3rdgens had the lips facing towards the trans... if you think of it as a "M" the bottom of the M faces the trans.
later 3rdgens and 4thgens have the M facing away from the trans.
because of this, i couldnt reuse my poly TQ arm mount from my 82 camaro.
early 3rdgens had the lips facing towards the trans... if you think of it as a "M" the bottom of the M faces the trans.
later 3rdgens and 4thgens have the M facing away from the trans.
because of this, i couldnt reuse my poly TQ arm mount from my 82 camaro.
03-16-2004, 07:48 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
wiring the SGI box.
----------------------------------------------
man this gave me fits lastnight... i finally stopped following the directions that came with it, and asked others how theirs worked..
the pic below is how you wire the SGI box
if you have any questions, ask here, and i'll try my best to answer you. i havent calibrated my speedo yet as i only got it to work as of 11 oclock lastnight.... however my butt speedo tells me its close.
im going to attempt to figure it out mathmaticly, and then i'll post it up.... athough i may just have to do runs next to a police "you're going this fast" radar trailor to get it...
i'll post how i calibrate it either way im hoping i can do it mathmaticly and write a script so everyone can do theirs easily
----------------------------------------------
man this gave me fits lastnight... i finally stopped following the directions that came with it, and asked others how theirs worked..
the pic below is how you wire the SGI box
if you have any questions, ask here, and i'll try my best to answer you. i havent calibrated my speedo yet as i only got it to work as of 11 oclock lastnight.... however my butt speedo tells me its close.
im going to attempt to figure it out mathmaticly, and then i'll post it up.... athough i may just have to do runs next to a police "you're going this fast" radar trailor to get it...
i'll post how i calibrate it either way
im hoping i can do it mathmaticly and write a script so everyone can do theirs easily
03-17-2004, 09:18 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
to hook up reverse lights you need to cut the two wires from the neutral safety switch and wire them into the switch that's in the tranny. i can't remember which color wires they are, though.
03-18-2004, 08:01 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Re: T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.
Originally posted by pasky
Did you have to do anything special for reverse lights starting from an auto?
Did you have to do anything special for reverse lights starting from an auto?
Originally posted by MrDude_1
auto to manual part: Wiring
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
next two wires are your backup lights.
next to where the large wires were on the connector...
early thirdgens(i believe pre 90) have blue and blue with dark blue striped wires. later ones have green and blue wires.
connect these wires to the plug on the pass side of the trans... this will be the only plug on the passenger side of the trans.
auto to manual part: Wiring
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
next two wires are your backup lights.
next to where the large wires were on the connector...
early thirdgens(i believe pre 90) have blue and blue with dark blue striped wires. later ones have green and blue wires.
connect these wires to the plug on the pass side of the trans... this will be the only plug on the passenger side of the trans.
03-18-2004, 02:19 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Just to add some info for people going T-5 to T-56.
The cut on the shifter hole will need to be roughly 1 3/4" to 2". What I did was pull the center console and measured 2 inches back.
There is a metal bracket where you console bolts on to and on that bracket towards the shifter hole there is some metal touching the floor pan. I cut about 1/4 of an inch into that and have about 2/9 of an inch between my t56 and my shifter hole. Its not hard.
You can use your existing hydraulic mounts for the master cylinder and cannot reuse your old ones as the slave cylinder will come up too short on the tranny end.
You can re-use your existing manual pedals and was told fourth gens are at a different angle and its best to use thirdgen pedals.
I think we all know its obvious you need a new tranmission crossmember and is available spohn and another company's name that escapes me makes them. If you go spohn I suggest ordering from them directly, they shipped very quickly and are a pleasure to deal with.
Do not get the driveshaft loop attached to the xmember unless you are also going to use their tourque arm (which attaches to the xmember rather than the tranny). The driveshaft loop will hit the stock tourque arm.
You can use the stock driveshaft with the t56 as long as your vehicle is a 84+. Believe the Saginaw four speed manual and whatever automatic transmission they had at the time had a different tail length and the driveshaft from those years will not work.
Just wanted to add this applies to v6 and v8 vehicles (mine was a v6).
The cut on the shifter hole will need to be roughly 1 3/4" to 2". What I did was pull the center console and measured 2 inches back.
There is a metal bracket where you console bolts on to and on that bracket towards the shifter hole there is some metal touching the floor pan. I cut about 1/4 of an inch into that and have about 2/9 of an inch between my t56 and my shifter hole. Its not hard.
You can use your existing hydraulic mounts for the master cylinder and cannot reuse your old ones as the slave cylinder will come up too short on the tranny end.
You can re-use your existing manual pedals and was told fourth gens are at a different angle and its best to use thirdgen pedals.
I think we all know its obvious you need a new tranmission crossmember and is available spohn and another company's name that escapes me makes them. If you go spohn I suggest ordering from them directly, they shipped very quickly and are a pleasure to deal with.
Do not get the driveshaft loop attached to the xmember unless you are also going to use their tourque arm (which attaches to the xmember rather than the tranny). The driveshaft loop will hit the stock tourque arm.
You can use the stock driveshaft with the t56 as long as your vehicle is a 84+. Believe the Saginaw four speed manual and whatever automatic transmission they had at the time had a different tail length and the driveshaft from those years will not work.
Just wanted to add this applies to v6 and v8 vehicles (mine was a v6).
Last edited by pasky; 03-23-2004 at 12:24 AM.
03-18-2004, 03:57 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by pasky
Do not get the driveshaft loop attached to the xmember unless you are also going to use their tourque arm (which attaches to the xmember rather than the tranny). The driveshaft loop will hit the stock tourque arm.
Do not get the driveshaft loop attached to the xmember unless you are also going to use their tourque arm (which attaches to the xmember rather than the tranny). The driveshaft loop will hit the stock tourque arm.
yea.... i just got mine to clear though.
i used my grinder and ground the crap out of the rear corner of it all the way to halfway forward of the loop.
it doesnt hit anymore, but its pretty thin on the very end. still, the loop is so wide, i have zero containment worries.
im a lil pissed that i had to do it though... but i wasnt going to lop it off for a $40 loss, and i didnt have the time to exchange or anything.. and spohn closes when i get out of work.
im sure i'll take pics of what i did eventually. i just have it together right now since im driving the car.
03-23-2004, 01:31 PM
#16
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Car: 83z28; 84 z28 H.O.
Engine: 350 bored .060 xe268 cam 10.5:1 comp
Transmission: WC T-5
Originally posted by pasky
Just out of curiosity since mine was originally a v6, my tourque arm was backwards on the t56 mount. The fourthgens seem to be the opposite direction or was this the V8 thirdgen's as well?
Just out of curiosity since mine was originally a v6, my tourque arm was backwards on the t56 mount. The fourthgens seem to be the opposite direction or was this the V8 thirdgen's as well?
and of course it was the wrong one. I later got another 84z and used it on that car
03-24-2004, 07:31 PM
#17
Aren't there "dimpled" areas around the firewall where
the clutch master cylinder will go anyways? Why do you
need to "mock fit" the pedals first? I looked at the firewall
( engine side) and saw an outline just to the side of the
brake booster. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that
where to drill out the holes?
the clutch master cylinder will go anyways? Why do you
need to "mock fit" the pedals first? I looked at the firewall
( engine side) and saw an outline just to the side of the
brake booster. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that
where to drill out the holes?
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03-25-2004, 09:19 AM
#18
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Camaro_nut
Aren't there "dimpled" areas around the firewall where
the clutch master cylinder will go anyways? Why do you
need to "mock fit" the pedals first? I looked at the firewall
( engine side) and saw an outline just to the side of the
brake booster. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that
where to drill out the holes?
Aren't there "dimpled" areas around the firewall where
the clutch master cylinder will go anyways? Why do you
need to "mock fit" the pedals first? I looked at the firewall
( engine side) and saw an outline just to the side of the
brake booster. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that
where to drill out the holes?
theres a big flat space there.
stand there with a drill ready to go, and you'll be wondering, hey, i can make 3 holes (2 boltholes and the clutch cyl hole) anywhere in this space.... WHERE DOES IT GO!?
answer is, the bolt holes have to line up thru the pedals on the other side, no matter what... and if thoes two mounting holes line up, then the center hole lines up with where it should be for the clutch pedal....
i still have the oval piece of metal the holesaw cut out.. if you want to look at it... i just made one cut and thats it... no trimming or filing... i mean, yea, you can eyeball it, but this way, you have zero chance of making a hackjob of your car.... no hole elongation needed.
03-25-2004, 09:21 AM
#19
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
oh, and as far as the holes in the sound mat/insulation under the carpet..... do you really trust that the carpet is in the exact right spot when it doesnt have anything going thru it to space it right?
did you know, the holes are oversize anyway, incase the mat didnt go on perfect... i mean, they made the holes bigger then the parts that go thru them so theres a little leeway as they install it...
but if nothigns going thru it from thefactory to center it, how do you know where it should go?
did you know, the holes are oversize anyway, incase the mat didnt go on perfect... i mean, they made the holes bigger then the parts that go thru them so theres a little leeway as they install it...
but if nothigns going thru it from thefactory to center it, how do you know where it should go?
03-27-2004, 05:59 AM
#20
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I used the cutouts in the firewall pad as a guide and drilled my holes based on them. Everything bolted up flawlessly.
Another tip that seems to get overlooked on every website is what to do with the exhaust hanger from the trans to the cat. What I did was to take the stock '95 trans half of the mount and section the long part of it 1.5" and then weld it back together. I drilled out the rivets that hold the rubber pad on it so that it wouldn't catch fire when welding, and then just used two bolts to re-attach it. Then I made up a bracket that bolts to the flange on the cat and has an arm coming off of it that slips right into the modified '95 hanger. It works like a charm and looks factory.
Another tip that seems to get overlooked on every website is what to do with the exhaust hanger from the trans to the cat. What I did was to take the stock '95 trans half of the mount and section the long part of it 1.5" and then weld it back together. I drilled out the rivets that hold the rubber pad on it so that it wouldn't catch fire when welding, and then just used two bolts to re-attach it. Then I made up a bracket that bolts to the flange on the cat and has an arm coming off of it that slips right into the modified '95 hanger. It works like a charm and looks factory.
03-27-2004, 02:11 PM
#21
Yes, the exhaust/cat hanger off the trans. is an overlooked
item on every T-56 swap article! Thanks TKOPerformance for
your info on that! I was getting concerned on that part. I think
I still have that attached to my '95 T-56 trans. as well. So all I need to do is modify it. Can you get pics up on this by chance?
Although, I have NO welding skills or a welding machine, I will
have to "Mickey Mouse" it for now during the process. I will
have a friend of mine ( who welds) to help me fix that later
I guess.
item on every T-56 swap article! Thanks TKOPerformance for
your info on that! I was getting concerned on that part. I think
I still have that attached to my '95 T-56 trans. as well. So all I need to do is modify it. Can you get pics up on this by chance?
Although, I have NO welding skills or a welding machine, I will
have to "Mickey Mouse" it for now during the process. I will
have a friend of mine ( who welds) to help me fix that later
I guess.
03-27-2004, 06:09 PM
#22
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
i didnt have a stock exhaust, so i welded up a exhaust hanger arrangement to work..
i didnt bother to post that since it wont work for 99% of the cars out here anyway.
i didnt bother to post that since it wont work for 99% of the cars out here anyway.
03-28-2004, 06:26 AM
#23
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I'm not sure how to post pics. If someone can tell me I will take some and post them.
I can fabricate you a hanger just like mine if you want. Send me the '95 hanger, pay for shipping to and from and I'll make it up for you. PM me if you are interested.
I can fabricate you a hanger just like mine if you want. Send me the '95 hanger, pay for shipping to and from and I'll make it up for you. PM me if you are interested.
03-28-2004, 11:08 AM
#24
Originally posted by TKOPerformance
I'm not sure how to post pics. If someone can tell me I will take some and post them.
I can fabricate you a hanger just like mine if you want. Send me the '95 hanger, pay for shipping to and from and I'll make it up for you. PM me if you are interested.
I'm not sure how to post pics. If someone can tell me I will take some and post them.
I can fabricate you a hanger just like mine if you want. Send me the '95 hanger, pay for shipping to and from and I'll make it up for you. PM me if you are interested.
How to post pics:
Scroll down in the reply box. Go to where it says "Attach file",
next to the right there's a "Browse" button. Click on that and
you can go to any file or folder on your computer that already
has downloaded pics in there. As long as it has valid file
extensions: jpg, gif, png, jpeg OR bmp, and is not bigger than
102500 bytes, your good to go. Once the valid pic is entered in
the box, all you have to do is click "Submit reply" and your done.
A message will come up if the file is too big or not supported. You
can modify your file's size IF you already have software to do
that. Hope this helps.
This is only if you already have pics in your computer. If you have
a digital camara, just read the instructions on how to do this,
instead of me giving the instructions. If you don't have a digital
camara, then you need at least a regular camara AND a good
scanner! That's a PITA after a while! I used to do that before a
bought a digital camara. It sucked!
I will PM you about the hanger soon. I need to check the
trans. sitting in my garage right now to see if the hanger is
actually on there. I will get back to you.
03-29-2004, 07:27 AM
#25
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Re: T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.
Originally posted by MrDude_1
auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
where does the hole go? look at your replacement manual pedals... see the 2 holes that are by the clutch.. kinda low? the U bolt goes thru the master cyl.. then thru the firewall, then thru thoes holes.
to make the hole, remove the auto pedals, and install the manual ones with one or two bolts on the brake booster... if you have 4thgen pedals, see the next part:" installing 4thgen pedals in a 3rdgen"
now that the pedals are mocked in place, drill the two holes out by the clutch... these are the two holes you will be using to hole the master cyl on.
now take your Ubolt and shove it into a piece of cardboard.
auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
where does the hole go? look at your replacement manual pedals... see the 2 holes that are by the clutch.. kinda low? the U bolt goes thru the master cyl.. then thru the firewall, then thru thoes holes.
to make the hole, remove the auto pedals, and install the manual ones with one or two bolts on the brake booster... if you have 4thgen pedals, see the next part:" installing 4thgen pedals in a 3rdgen"
now that the pedals are mocked in place, drill the two holes out by the clutch... these are the two holes you will be using to hole the master cyl on.
now take your Ubolt and shove it into a piece of cardboard.
somehow this got clipped.
put the Ubolt thru the master cyl, and into the cardboard. you will have to cut a center hole for the master cyl int he cardboard.
cut it as close and as accuratly as you can.... i held the holesaw in my hand (no drill) and used that to cut the cardboard.
now you have a template. put bolts thru the cardboard then thru the firewall and pedals.
with your template in place, you can position the drill just right..... then cut your hole.
a new 1.25" holesaw held carfully at a slight angle will cut the perfect oval for this. yes. it IS worth the $9-$12 for a metal cutting holesaw... i got mine from lowes (they're just around the corner from my house)
be sure to get one for metal.
03-30-2004, 11:46 PM
#26
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I will post a pic this weekend. I won't have time to screw with it until then.
03-31-2004, 06:33 PM
#27
TKOPerformance,
Ok, that's fine. I probably won't be able to mail out the
hanger and money order until then. Thanks for helping me
on this! :heehee:
MrDude_1,
I was wondering about that part about the "auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall" section. It seemed like it didn't make sense. Thanks for clearing that up! I appreciate you taking the time to make this tech article. It is VERY important to me, because I need to know all about the speedo conversion, how to wire the box, where and when to cut out holes, the wiring, etc! You are the man!
:hail:
Ok, that's fine. I probably won't be able to mail out the
hanger and money order until then. Thanks for helping me
on this! :heehee:
MrDude_1,
I was wondering about that part about the "auto to manual part: cutting the master cyl hole in the firewall" section. It seemed like it didn't make sense. Thanks for clearing that up! I appreciate you taking the time to make this tech article. It is VERY important to me, because I need to know all about the speedo conversion, how to wire the box, where and when to cut out holes, the wiring, etc! You are the man!
:hail:
04-02-2004, 05:23 AM
#28
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
i got my tranmsission is on the way....12 month unlimited mileage warranty 0 miles on a complete rebuild. its got the .5 6th gear ratio, i paid $1325 plus $500 for core charge....anyone wants the guy ill tell him hes great....
anyway he was saying to make skip shift not work just dont hook up the connection right?
anyway he was saying to make skip shift not work just dont hook up the connection right?
04-02-2004, 07:30 AM
#29
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by porkyzilla
i got my tranmsission is on the way....12 month unlimited mileage warranty 0 miles on a complete rebuild. its got the .5 6th gear ratio, i paid $1325 plus $500 for core charge....anyone wants the guy ill tell him hes great....
anyway he was saying to make skip shift not work just dont hook up the connection right?
i got my tranmsission is on the way....12 month unlimited mileage warranty 0 miles on a complete rebuild. its got the .5 6th gear ratio, i paid $1325 plus $500 for core charge....anyone wants the guy ill tell him hes great....
anyway he was saying to make skip shift not work just dont hook up the connection right?
yes. as long as theres no power going to the "skip shift" (aka CAGS) silinoid, it wont change gears.
its really greasy and dirty in the pics, but you'll get the idea.
the "skip shift" connector that you DONT want to connect somthing to is the front most one on the drivers side.
the only connector on the trans not in that pic is the reverse switch. it is located on the other side of the trans, towards the front.
04-02-2004, 10:21 AM
#30
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
If you want to go one step farther you can remove the solenoid all together and plug the hole with an M22x1.5 oil pan drain plug avaiable at most auto parts stores. It accepts a flat washer style gasket and plugs the hole perfectly.
04-06-2004, 06:45 AM
#31
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
so not plugging in the cags will stop the skip shift? im confused
i just bought my conversion kit and am waiting for it to come in the mail. i have read just about every post on this conversion and am pretty confident in doing it myself. now to learn about the exhaust hanger....damn im gonna have to ghetto rig something
i just bought my conversion kit and am waiting for it to come in the mail. i have read just about every post on this conversion and am pretty confident in doing it myself. now to learn about the exhaust hanger....damn im gonna have to ghetto rig something
04-06-2004, 09:21 AM
#32
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
so not plugging in the cags will stop the skip shift? im confused
i just bought my conversion kit and am waiting for it to come in the mail. i have read just about every post on this conversion and am pretty confident in doing it myself. now to learn about the exhaust hanger....damn im gonna have to ghetto rig something
so not plugging in the cags will stop the skip shift? im confused
i just bought my conversion kit and am waiting for it to come in the mail. i have read just about every post on this conversion and am pretty confident in doing it myself. now to learn about the exhaust hanger....damn im gonna have to ghetto rig something
when the "skip shift" plug gets power, the silinoid pushes a little pin on the shift linkage.
this makes it not want to go into 2nd... instead, you have to goto 4th.
if you never put power to the "skip shift" then it never locks out 2nd and you can just use it normally.
you could go one step more like TKOPerformance said and take off the thing all together... it just screws in there.
04-06-2004, 02:29 PM
#33
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
why did they design skip shift???? will it give you better time at the track or whats the whole purpose of it??
04-06-2004, 02:35 PM
#34
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by porkyzilla
why did they design skip shift???? will it give you better time at the track or whats the whole purpose of it??
why did they design skip shift???? will it give you better time at the track or whats the whole purpose of it??
gas miliage.
if you go from 1st to 4th under lite to moderate acceleration (read: normal street driving) then you get better gas miliage.
for years, they added a little upshift and somtimes a downshift light on the dash... when the EPA tests the cars, they do what the light says, and it gets a better MPG rating.
by the 90s, they cought on to the fact that people just ignore the lights..... so as a "fix" they added CAGS... Computer Aided Gear Selection.
CAGS skips 2nd and 3rd and makes you go from first to 4th.. so its commonly known as "skip shift".
on the 4thgen, its computer controled.. so if you are accelerating quickly, it lets you use all the gears... when they bypass it, they just unplug it and stick a resistor in there so that the computer thinks its still connected.....
in a 3rdgen we dont even have a computer controled way to connect it anyway.. its pretty useless to begin with.. its just a way to make it get rated higher for gas miliage.
04-06-2004, 04:12 PM
#35
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
would like to purchase the speedo/tach calibration unit from Dak Digital and i have an electronic speed (91Z28) and 4.10 gears. currently the speedo is not calibrated and when i put in the T56 i was wondering if the SGI-5 box fixes all of this?
would i just wire it the same as above?
if not would the SGI-7 box work?
would i just wire it the same as above?
if not would the SGI-7 box work?
04-07-2004, 09:22 AM
#36
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
would like to purchase the speedo/tach calibration unit from Dak Digital and i have an electronic speed (91Z28) and 4.10 gears. currently the speedo is not calibrated and when i put in the T56 i was wondering if the SGI-5 box fixes all of this?
would like to purchase the speedo/tach calibration unit from Dak Digital and i have an electronic speed (91Z28) and 4.10 gears. currently the speedo is not calibrated and when i put in the T56 i was wondering if the SGI-5 box fixes all of this?
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
would i just wire it the same as above?
would i just wire it the same as above?
i mounted mine under the center console right by where my shifter is. i just take off the console top plate to get to it if i ever change gears again.
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
if not would the SGI-7 box work?
if not would the SGI-7 box work?
04-07-2004, 05:44 PM
#38
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI 10 over stock
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 Richmond
Ok, so if I were to go to the dealer to purchase new plugs for the vss, reverse lockout, and reverse lights are the pins in the connector I need to buy or are they in the end on the trans? Unfortunately I don't have a donor harness to get them off of and I have no time to mess around at the junkyard. I do have the trans but I'm not at the location where its at currently. I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I start tearing everything apart. I plan to finish the swap in under 2 days.
04-07-2004, 06:13 PM
#39
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by chopper
Ok, so if I were to go to the dealer to purchase new plugs for the vss, reverse lockout, and reverse lights are the pins in the connector I need to buy or are they in the end on the trans? Unfortunately I don't have a donor harness to get them off of and I have no time to mess around at the junkyard. I do have the trans but I'm not at the location where its at currently. I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I start tearing everything apart. I plan to finish the swap in under 2 days.
Ok, so if I were to go to the dealer to purchase new plugs for the vss, reverse lockout, and reverse lights are the pins in the connector I need to buy or are they in the end on the trans? Unfortunately I don't have a donor harness to get them off of and I have no time to mess around at the junkyard. I do have the trans but I'm not at the location where its at currently. I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I start tearing everything apart. I plan to finish the swap in under 2 days.
are you asking if they're male or female? i donno.
if you get the connectors directly from the dealer, they should be correct though..
worse case, you can still do it in 2 days and drive the car. you just wont have backup lights, it will be hard to push into reverse, and the speedo wont work.
04-07-2004, 06:22 PM
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI 10 over stock
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 Richmond
Oh yeah, one more thing, I was reading an upgrade article on the T56 in Chevy High Performance, May 04 edition and it showed the 5th and 6th gears are basically the same gear, one half 5th and the other half 6th. This taken into account does the T56 have a true 6th gear pattern or is it the same as a T5 with a 6th gear float? Can anyone post a picture of the shift pattern for a
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
04-07-2004, 06:25 PM
#41
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI 10 over stock
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 Richmond
Originally posted by MrDude_1
are you asking if they're male or female? i donno.
if you get the connectors directly from the dealer, they should be correct though..
worse case, you can still do it in 2 days and drive the car. you just wont have backup lights, it will be hard to push into reverse, and the speedo wont work.
are you asking if they're male or female? i donno.
if you get the connectors directly from the dealer, they should be correct though..
worse case, you can still do it in 2 days and drive the car. you just wont have backup lights, it will be hard to push into reverse, and the speedo wont work.
Yeah that'll work if im in a pinch to get her back on the road again. I need to go to the dealer for something else anyway so I'll just pick em up then. Thanks for the info.
04-07-2004, 06:28 PM
#42
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI 10 over stock
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 Richmond
If my speedo is currently calibrated correctly do I need to buy an SGI-5? or will just hooking up the connector do the job?
04-07-2004, 10:17 PM
#43
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
i know from reading many posts about the swap is that you NEED the SGI-5 box no matter what because it converts the VSS impulse signal from the tranny to the correct signal for the ECM or something like that. but yes you do need the box.
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
04-07-2004, 10:51 PM
#44
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 200C
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
If you have an electric speedometer, it gets the reading from the computer. You would not have any gears for the speedometer with an electric speedo.
04-08-2004, 08:37 AM
#45
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by FireRed91Z28
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
i myself was just wondering if i have to change the drive and driven gears that i read about for speedo calibration? does my electronically driven speedo even use these?
a drive gear in the trans turns a driven gear on the VSS... the VSS sends a pulse (3000 pulses per mile i think) to the ECM and speedo gauge.
the stock 4thgen setup works like this:
the T56 does not have replaceable gears. its VSS is driven at the same ratio regardless of rear gearing. this means that it will have high pulses per mile for some gears, and lower for others.. but even the lowest signal is MUCH higher then the stock 3rdgen signal. (about 10x higher) the signal goes to the computer. the computer converts it into what it should be for the rear gear ratio and uses the converted signal. the converted signal is also sent to the VSS
the 3rdgen setup with elec speedo and T56 works like this:
the T56 VSS is hooked up to the SGI box. the SGI box converts the signal to what it should be for a 3rdgen, and it fixes the ratio based on your rear gears. the box then sends the signal into the factory VSS wires and everythign else works like stock.
Originally posted by chopper
If my speedo is currently calibrated correctly do I need to buy an SGI-5? or will just hooking up the connector do the job?
If my speedo is currently calibrated correctly do I need to buy an SGI-5? or will just hooking up the connector do the job?
Originally posted by chopper
Oh yeah, one more thing, I was reading an upgrade article on the T56 in Chevy High Performance, May 04 edition and it showed the 5th and 6th gears are basically the same gear, one half 5th and the other half 6th. This taken into account does the T56 have a true 6th gear pattern or is it the same as a T5 with a 6th gear float? Can anyone post a picture of the shift pattern for a
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
Oh yeah, one more thing, I was reading an upgrade article on the T56 in Chevy High Performance, May 04 edition and it showed the 5th and 6th gears are basically the same gear, one half 5th and the other half 6th. This taken into account does the T56 have a true 6th gear pattern or is it the same as a T5 with a 6th gear float? Can anyone post a picture of the shift pattern for a
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
Code:
............. ..1..3..5..R ..|__|__|__| ..|..|..| ..2..4..6...
Last edited by MrDude_1; 04-09-2004 at 08:03 AM.
04-08-2004, 05:05 PM
#47
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
Originally posted by chopper
Oh yeah, one more thing, I was reading an upgrade article on the T56 in Chevy High Performance, May 04 edition and it showed the 5th and 6th gears are basically the same gear, one half 5th and the other half 6th. This taken into account does the T56 have a true 6th gear pattern or is it the same as a T5 with a 6th gear float? Can anyone post a picture of the shift pattern for a
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
Oh yeah, one more thing, I was reading an upgrade article on the T56 in Chevy High Performance, May 04 edition and it showed the 5th and 6th gears are basically the same gear, one half 5th and the other half 6th. This taken into account does the T56 have a true 6th gear pattern or is it the same as a T5 with a 6th gear float? Can anyone post a picture of the shift pattern for a
T56? By looking at the 5 speed pattern I can't seem to figure out where reverse is with 6 forward gears.
can someone explain this better??? does this mean that its not a true 6 gear tranny??? i dont get it... i always wanted a 6 gear
04-08-2004, 06:55 PM
#48
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 200C
Axle/Gears: 3:73
The T-56 has a fifth gear ratio of .74 The 6th gear ratio is .5 for 94+.
In 93 the 5th gear ratio is .8 and 6th is .63.
It has 6 gears that you can shift into.
In 93 the 5th gear ratio is .8 and 6th is .63.
It has 6 gears that you can shift into.
Last edited by TransAm12sec; 04-08-2004 at 06:59 PM.
04-08-2004, 07:07 PM
#49
The 6th gear is a true gear. It is designed for better
gas mileage, hence the words " double overdrive".
The 93 T-56 had a .80 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and a
.62 to 1 ratio in 6th.
The 94+ T-56s had a .74 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and
a .50 to 1 gear ratio in 6th.
You be the judge about the "fake 6th gear"!
gas mileage, hence the words " double overdrive".
The 93 T-56 had a .80 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and a
.62 to 1 ratio in 6th.
The 94+ T-56s had a .74 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and
a .50 to 1 gear ratio in 6th.
You be the judge about the "fake 6th gear"!
04-08-2004, 07:55 PM
#50
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI 10 over stock
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 Richmond
Originally posted by Camaro_nut
The 94+ T-56s had a .74 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and
a .50 to 1 gear ratio in 6th.
You be the judge about the "fake 6th gear"!
The 94+ T-56s had a .74 to 1 gear ratio in 5th, and
a .50 to 1 gear ratio in 6th.
You be the judge about the "fake 6th gear"!
Hey, my bad for confusing anyone. I just hadn't seen the shift pattern for the 6 speed and the tech article I read made me think a little more than I apparently needed to.