fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys,

I've decided to pull my old sub box out and make a new fiberglass one for more air space and lighter weight (maybe).

I noticed after the local sound shop built the last one it looked like I had installed lowering springs on the rear. The facts that the box was made from particle board that I was blowing apart with my kickers and it wasn't removeable was a big turn off.

Give me some time and I'll get up the pics of my new brackets I made for fiberglass.

For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about here's the old box.


One design downfall to it was I didn't like the way I lost all that space along the sides. Especially in the spare tire well (there's a lot of air space in there that's just empty now). Since the box was non removable of course I couldn't leave the spare in there. So I did some research and found a neat box for a 4th gen on fbodyaudio.com that uses up all the interior trim space. Here's a pic of it


So I figured if they can make a fiberglass box like that I can make a simplier design one for a 3rd gen. So I took my rear interior out except for the back plate, which I decided I need'd to leave after thinking about it for awhile. It was just going to be to much of a PITA to design cardboard to clear the movement of the motor going up and down. I built cardboard backing so all the edges are tapered slightly from the sides of the hatch seal and the rear interior panel so the box will be removable. I went ahead and I cut the driverside interior piece that has the runs along the hatch. I hack saw'd it right at the line behind the rear seat belt pods. I need'd to make that cut to remove the rear hatch glove box area. I didn't gain much space on that side but I decided I need'd to keep the design the same so it would be symmetrical other wize it would look like I got tired 1/2 way through the build.

I get the pics of the bracketing probably posted tonight.

So what's everyone think about the design? I've never fiberglassed a subwoofer box before but I figure it can't be any harder than the repairs I did to my cowl hood over winter (rebuilt ripped off corners with fiberglass, plastic filled, and spot puttied).

br()bert

I just finished a fiberglass box/amp rack for the lower well area. The biggest pita with it is the first layer. Falls off pretty easy. Once you get the first layer done its easy from their on, UNTILL you get to the sanding. You know that the enclosure in that picture has been sanded like crazy right? IF you want to paint your box and make it look good your gonna be sanding for awhile but in the end its worth it.
When i made mine i finished it off with a coating of bondo and resin mixed. I let that dry and coverd the box with material. Im not into sanding!

Also, if your box is going to extend into the spare tire area or glove area your box isnt going to come out once the fiberglass is set.

I know its a little too late since you cut the panels alreay but you could get some packing peanuts and fill the rear well to see how much air space you have in there. Then compare it to what your subs need. Also you dont have to mount the subs so low like they are in the picture of the 4th gen, you could mount them up on rings that way you gain even more air space. like this pic

br()bert

Not saying your box should look like that but you can make rings and angle your subs anyway you want and gain air space.

Kj Rockz

I'm not saying this is what you box should look like, i'm telling you what it should look like

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I was going to mount the subs higher than the pic (no way I can tilt my subs like that even if I wanted to without extending the car out). The pic was just for the idea of the box design how it flows up against the the hatch seal area and uses up a lot of space. As for the box extending into the spare tire area, it does have tapers all the angles around the hatch so it will be removeable. (come off the inside of the hatch seal and all have taper inward making a slope allowing someone to remove the box.) The upper lip of the box will have to meet against the lower part of the seal around where the seal actually attaches to the metal panels (not the upper since the hatch has to compress the upper part). If you think about the interior trim it comes off the hatch seal acouple inches and starts to curve to meet the floor pan. That is the area I'm getting space back to use for the box. I did some basic measure awhile back and I got around 11" to 13" inches high and around 6 to 7 inches wide. That was like I stated on the passenger side of course, but still 11x6 is a good size space. I didn't measure the length of extra space and being able to extend the box forward more will increase my box volume by enough to put worth the effort IMHO.

BTW the old box was around 1.75 ft per sub and that wasn't really enough for specs. These are 18" CVRs that have 1200+ watts going to each after all.

As for the preps and stuff I have that all covered. I plan on trying out some 3m spray this time so I can get the strands to stay on the angles long enough for me to put some resin on them. I already have experience using fiberglass and resins so I think I can handle it. I have all the tools I would need to complete the project with a professional paint job even (dad has all the equipment to paint cars along with experience doing it and degree in autobody). As for a super smooth coating for fiberglass you don't really have to sand that much. It's only basically putting plastic filler on and sanding it smooth and getting it level right so it doesn't look bad once you get paint on since then you can see all the little dips more. Then using spot putty after the filler to fill in all the tiny pin holes in the cosmetic layer so you gain a smooth finish.

I wasn't really looking for information on how hard it was to fiberglass I'm more interested into decussions with actual box design. Like should tilt the subs forward a little bit to uncover more of the woofer area. The old box had 25%+ of the woofer under the plastic hatch trim on the flat part with less than 2" clearance between non powered sub and surface. The 18s are suppose to have a 12 or 14 mm excursion on them. I was actually rubbing the surround at a point until I modified the trim plate a little bit.

Let me get some pictures of the bracketing it will be much clearer (on home pc just gotta upload them).

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

There's my basic idea. I started to make the bracing for the front that will curve between the amps and the rear roll bars.

br()bert

I see what you mean now, that should work out good.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I know it's been a little bit since this post was last added to but I got some new pictures for you guys.

The box build is well under way now.

Here's a side by side of the old box (note I had to rip the crap out of it to get it out of the car due to the way it was built). Also those lighter shaded areas on the hatch motor side of the box are not bubbles that's just were it laid funny against my aluminum foil so I put some body filler in it to keep it from flexing while I laid more layers outside the car.



Here's a pic of it in the car


I got a few air bubbles but not to many. Which I consider alright for a project of this size. I'm not just doing a little side trunk box with 3 or 4 layers like other people elsewhere on the internet do.

I started out using the regular mat and epoxy from wal mart but it got expensive fast. So I ordered some 3/4 oz mat (around 10 yards at 48" wide I believe) and a 5 gallon pail of the construction resin (b-440 ?). So that's why the bottom looks a little different from the rest. I didn't want to get the sides to thick so I got 11 sq foot of Aircraft Quality fiberglass which was around 40 oz and I did the sides the top of the hatch motor area, and the front lip with a layer of that. It's suppose to have a 450 lb/in tear. So it's some pretty heavy stuff. I didn't go to heavy on the front lip areas because I know I will probably have to trim them anyways and I need to lay the lid so they will be enforced then.

I still need to cut the edges back like I planned. I have ran into another problem I need to build the lid so it clears the hatch shocks. I think I can make bracing out of wooden dowels or something else to get a nice slope for the lid around the shocks. It shouldn't be to much of a pita.

As for a divider wall I'll probably just get a 3/4" or 1" MDF which ever the local lumber yard carries. After I get my design all figured out for the bottom shell I'll do my divider. I'm planning on making it the same height as the outer walls so I can get a nice downward slope off all the chamber walls to each sub.

For now I think my next step is going to be going back and using a bondo fiberglass filler (kind with long strands) to fill in the craters inside the box and on the outside. That should also give me more support over using a regular plastic filler hopefully.

br()bert

Looks good man! Keep us updated.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Well I finally got around to figuring up the air space in the box.... Due to all places around here not carrying packing peanuts I used water. First I put a gallon of water in the box to make sure it was leak proof before I installed it in the car.

I then started using 5 gallon buckets that I marked a 5 gallon line on it. So few boards later and using the floor jack with jack stands to keep the back of the car from sagging I got the below picture. :-)

It held about 53 gallons total I left a little room due to the car sagging under the water's weight (442 lbs). I figured that is need'd anyways since my lid will curve inward.

So 53 gallons / 7.481 = 7.08 cubic feet, if my gallons in a cubic foot are correct.

So anyways I now have a sealed box that is over 7 cubic feet and has held way over 400+ lbs of water without the MDF divider that will soon go in or even the lid in place. So it holds more water than most fish tanks. Best thing it still fits in the hatch... neat huh?

nikh23

wow thats really bold to put that much water into your car like that. either way kudos on a job well done, looks awesome and keep on showin us progress

br()bert

woulda sucked if it burst with your amps right there like that!

Looks good man, keep up with the progress and pics!

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I didn't really want to fill it inside the car like that either, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it outside. I figured with that much weight it surely break my fiberglass or my old saw horses if I just did it with them sitting on them. So I came to the conclusion that I had to do it in the car to get the proper support on all sides. Then I was to lazy to pull the amps out... in hind sight I probably should have pull all my electronics out.

I was pretty sure it would have held it. It's got 6-7 layers of .75 oz fiberglass then a layer of 40.5 oz AirCraft fiberglass then a coat of fiberglass bondo on the inside and outside of the front unsupported part.

My guess for the size was around 35 gallons or so before filling with water.

Starting summer school here soon so my time gonna be devointed to it sadly. Hopefully I can start collecting the supplies and get the wooden dowl rod structure built so it be concaved to clear the hatch shock supports.

LaxStreetRacer

How thick are the walls on your box??? A couple years ago i rebuilt my box out of fiberglass, its 1.5cu ft wich is exactly what my sub is supposed to have(old school single voice coil RF Power Series 12). I had to make it pretty darn thick to handle the pressure produced by the sub to keep it from flexin, and I reused the old 3/4 particle board i had for the top because i didnt wanna make a top plate out of glass strong enough to hold it. In the end i think it actually weighs a little more than the wood one did. Also i hade to use spray on sound dampener to stop it from sounding like a big drum, has anyone else had this problem? In the end im happy with it because it sounds fine but i dont think it was worth the time/hassle but it was a great learning experience and i could probably do it better next time. I would deffinately like to see yours when u get it done, it might inspire me to do something new with mine. So please do post some finnished pics and let us know how she sounds/and if u get any weight saving out of it. If i can rebuild mine lighter i will deffinately look into it.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Well the walls aren't to thick right now. Like I stated earlier it has 6-7 layers of 0.75 oz fiberglass using a b-440 (construction) resin from USComposites.com The sides are mostly supported by the car. The only non supported sides are the part under the hatch motor, side rolls into the fenders and the front lip. I used some 40.5 OZ AirCraft fiberglass on it really thick woven type. The side rolls and the front lip area all recieved it around 11 SQ Ft total just from that.

I then went back and used 3 or 4 pints of the bondo fiberglass filler (it has actual strands of glass in it). I used it to fill in some of the dips and on the inside and outside of the front lip to strengthen it even more.

All in all I think 1/8" to 1/4" thick. I did the jab the test on it (once I was sure it was pretty strong I threw a hard jab at it on all sides) and it didn't move. So I filled with the water and it still held.

The walls have a little flex currently but after I get the 3/4" MDF divider totally in and bondo'd up and get the lid on it should be pretty strong.

I got my MDF sheets today (2 total) I used 70% of the first to make my divider and the rings. The other sheet is for the extra 15" solobaric I have in my room (ebay'd for 100 bucks) plan on making a 6.0 cubic foot ported box for it (biggest ported box from kicker).

My rings are pretty big there made up from 4 seperate rings. I got all right sizes from using a board and putting nails into it at the measured lengths then I could spin and scribe it on the MDF. The bottom one is 21" outside and 16.25" inside I used a belt sander then a square padded sander to get it to fit the sub perfectly. I didn't feel that safe just cutting out it to kicker specs with the sabre saw. The upper ring is 21" outside diameter of course with a 19" inside. Putting the rings together should get me close to recessing the subs for fiberglass. I'm not to positive on it but it might be off by 1/4" but that should get taken up by the fleece and fiberglass. I used liquid nails for the divider wall to fiberglass and the liquid nails on the rings after I drilled out 4 pivot holes with my 1/4 HP drill and then I used 2 nails across from each other to use and studs after I put glue on one ring that way I could line up all the holes again and use my wood screws on them. After I got the 2 screws in I pulled out the nails and used screws on those holes too. So I have liquid nails and 4 1.25" wood screws holding my rings together.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Nice thing about using 18's is that I figure I will only have 5 to 6 inches of fiberglass surrounding the subs. I have around 5.5 hours in just cutting the divider, rings, and glueing them together.

After I get the rings mounted on 3/8" dowels and I know it clears the hatch with plenty of room I'll make up supports for the rings out of MDF to be liquid nailed and screwed to the rings then liquid nailed and bondo'd to the box. That should make my lid more strudy also. Then I think I'm going to paint the inside of the box with Truck Bedliner that should help keep the box from flexing a little bit more and making rattles.

br()bert

looks like things are coming along well. Cant wait to see it finished.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Any input on the truck bedliner? Also I'm hoping my overall thickness of my fiberglass isn't gonna flex and distort to much under pressure hopefully the MDF sub structure I will build off the rings will help with that also. What do you guys think about the thickness will it be a problem?

br()bert

Well 6-7 layers should to be enough imo. You gotta remember fiberglass is strong in its bends which you have alot of. Your box isnt square, its contoured to the back well. Also you have that 3/4" MDF divider that adds strength. By the time you get the top section done your box will be plenty strong. Just take your time as you have been and it'll be fine.


About the truck liner. When i made my box i made up a milkshake of resin and bondo. The bondo was the type with fiberglass strands in it. I coated the inside of the box with it . My box is only like 5 layers and a thick coating of the milkshake and i could probably park my car ontop of it with no problems.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Sweet I know what type you're talking about. That's the Bondo Fiberglass with extra long strands. Only thing is I can only get it in a pint since so mixing is gonna be a pain and get expensive 8 bucks a can. How many pints did you use for the coverage? Did you use the hardener included with the bondo and mix that before or just put extra fiberglass hardner in it and mixed the resin, bondo, and hardner all together? And what ratio did you use if you can remember for resin to bondo? I'm pretty sure my box will be more than enough but better to be a little over kill than find out once the lid is on I should have done something different.

Had an idea for wiring earlier this week. I'm thinking of running the wires under the carpet off the amps (holes ready cut and slit all the way over to the sides for the rear bars) then have the wires pop up in the cover'd pod area (one on each side) where the rear seat belts bolt to. Put a knot in them drill a hole into the fiberglass run the wire in up to the knot that way the wire can't go any further. Silicone up the hole from the inside and run my wiring to the subs. Would be a nice clean install since you wouldn't even see where the wires entered the box.

br()bert

I used a pint of the bondo on my box but mine is a single 10,yours is much bigger.

You could probably use the regular bondo, i used the fiberglass type because thats what i had around the house.

How i made my milkshake is i mixed the bondo with its hardener as you would if you were repairing a body panel. I used a little less hardener to slow down the curing time( gave me more time to apply it)

I then made up some resin with its hardener as i would if i was still applying fiberglass to the box.

IRC it was close to 2-1 or 2.5-1 bondo mixture to resin mixture. Just to get it like an extra thick milkshake.

BTW this took me awhile because i only mixed a small amount at a time. I didnt want it to harden up while i was brushing it on.

You'll do fine the way your going, as long as you dont rush the lid.

br()bert

[QUOTE]Originally posted by br()bert
[B]

How i made my milkshake is i mixed the bondo with its hardener as you would if you were repairing a body panel. I used a little less hardener to slow down the curing time( gave me more time to apply it)

I then made up some resin with its hardener as i would if i was still applying fiberglass to the box.

IRC it was close to 2-1 or 2.5-1 bondo mixture to resin mixture. Just to get it like an extra thick milkshake.
_________________________________________________
I forgot , after you make up your bondo with its hardener and your resin with its hardener you mix them together to get the milkshake.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Ok, thanks for the info. I'd wait till I get the complete back bone built off the MDF rings anyways. I imagine by that time it will be plenty strong.

Oh I'll add I have my 1" wooden dowels already cut and I used the bench grinder to trim them for the corners. I rechecked and they line up on the same path as the hatch shocks so that should give me a good prop once I put a screw through the fiberglass in each end. That way I can wrap the fiberglass off the edges under the rods back up to the top of the MDF rings that way my hatch shocks should fit nicely into my lid. Only thing that's gonna be a pita is doing the rear mounts for the rods cause I can't just notch them out and leave a dip like I'm going to do the front side. I imagine I'll have to build a slope of plastic filler so I retain nice high back shape against the seal, otherwize I would just have a straight upward wall there and it might look awkward.

br()bert

Yeah the top is where all the details are going to come in for correct fit. Part of the reason why alot of people give up on using fiberglass at that point and make the top out of mdf. (that and they cant cut out the sub rings correct as you already have )
I still think its easier to use fiberglass even at this point because fiberglass can be made to shape anyway you want.

Come up to an unexpected angle or object you just add a dowel and curve the fiberglass around the object in the way.



BTW what kind of finish are you gonna put on the box when its done?

Gettin dizzy from the fumes yet?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah my little 5 buck mask isn't cutting it... that's ok I can deal with resin fumes in my noise... just really sucks after you glass then and take a shower and get water in your nose go to hawk up a loogie and it tastes like resin... about made me puke.

For the finish I plan on building it up with bondo fiberglass, then trying out the new bondo ultralw filler (suppose to be really smooth stuff). I'll then move on to spot putty then get my primer and stuff sprayed and match the box to the car color. I skipped a crap load of sanding and addition repetional steps in there but you get it. I have to get my new cowl hood paint matched to the car anyways (shown in one of the early posts comparing old box to new box). I repaired that with fiberglass over winter and that was my first fiberglass experience so I'm still learning a lot. I did all the filler and spot puttying on it myself. I even chopped the front lip from 1" to 1/4" and renforced it with bondo and spot putty. Kind of nice since my father has all kinds of automotive tools (he use to paint barns, houses, cars,... etc) so we have everything from a high power water blaster to strip paint off houses down to automotive gravity feed spray guns and just about any kind of sander I could need for this job.

My father will probably be doing all the painting he just got done priming and spraying a older ford pickup he bought for 500 bucks. Plus he still owes me for cracking the theft lock out on his Delco radio out of his bonneville (car lost power one day due to short in wiring and radio locked itself out thinking it had be stolen) since dealer's supposely charge up to 90 bucks for it (took me around 5 minutes of work).

ddn69

looks awesome. cant wait to see finished product.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Some more pics for you guys! Here's one showing my sub recessed inside the mounting rings. As you can see I have 1/4" or so of it still sticking up past the ring. 1" MDF would have worked a little better than 3/4" cause the ring would have been 1/4" higher than the sub, but I couldn't get 1" so oh well. I think it still will turn out ok once I lay my 7-8 layers and fleece on it cause it should build up 1/4" easy.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Here's another pic where I put the sub inside the box. I have a clearance issue... The magnet hits off the slope of fiberglass and I can't move it backward cause the rings are so big they rub on the box so it looks like I'll have to scribe them and then take them up to the bench and use the belt sander and rip down the 2 points flat on the rings (you can kind of see them... one is straight back off the wall the other is on the corner of the hatch motor housing). It looks like it should beable to be made to fit without sanding all the way through my upper ring. So still a little more work, but that's what you get when you do a project like this... there IS NO tutorial I can use measurements from.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

sry messed up post

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

Heres my set up.. i used mdf and didnt really have a problem.. haha the sound shop that made yours makes mine look like a professional did it lol.. looks like you put a lot of work into that box your making keep it up! Damn 18's are you crazy. you better build that strong. my 15's kicker vr comps flex the glass alittle bit, yours is gunna be crazy. they didnt look like 18's at first.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

I did have to add alittle bit of polly fill. and also your gunna deffinitley need dynamat.I just took out my rear lights for paint. when i play my subs you can actually feel the air pressure pouring out of the holes where the lights screwed in .. its crazy how much spl i could be gaining with dynamat. well heres how my box looks... its really good for spl.. if i wanted really deep bass then i would do what your doing. which is making a big *** box lol

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, the first box was pretty much a scam. They didn't even use silicone on the corners so I used 3 tubes worth and finally got it to seal. Only thing was after I got it to seal I didn't have enough power to push the amps and they would clip on anything over 17 volume on my HU. Before the box was so inefficent I could turn it up to 36 volume or so then the music would skip from the bass rattling the HU so much.

As for SPL my old box was enough to make the hair on the back of your head move and I have friends who swear they felt more from air pressure going past there heads than actual bass. Even though it would make your lungs hurt... I don't know what my friends are thinking.

The first box was around 1.75 cubic ft per sub which is way under what kicker reccomends (2.2 ft). So I can't really imagine how much more bass and SPL I'm going to gain from going from a really small box to a medium to upper end box.

This whole project is Ebay's fault. I'm addicted to it. I found each sub listed seperately and I used buy it now for 100 bucks + 20 shipping each. So 2 18's weren't a bad deal for 240 dollars shipped. Only reason why the guy was selling cause he bought them new and found out 18's were to loud for him cause they made his chest hurt if he turned them up so he sold to me and bought a pair of 15's instead. Then I decided I wanted to over power them so I got 2 JBL 1200.1s that ran me around 560 bucks shipped also Ebay'd.

As for polyfill I have 2 garbage bags full of it. I loosely filled the box before I put water in it just to get an idea and I might need to get a little extra but that's no biggie since I have a Walmart within 15 miles from me.

I got the MDF rings sanded down and mock'd mounted in there Wednesday. Only had one problem when the belt sander kicked the belt halfway off the front roller and it decided to bump off my ring and land on my hand. *LOL* Mental Note: Always wear gloves, especially when you're using 60 grit coarse paper on an electric sander close to your hand. Oh well small price to pay a little blood spilled nothing major I only stopped to grab a glove to put on my hand.

I'm going to mount the rings at a slight up angle. I was playing around with the level and I found out if I mounted them dead flat they about hit the front bottom lip of the box. So I went as much of an angle as I can go. My basket's about hit off the fiberglass at the angle I have now. I think I have 1/2" to 1/4" clearance. I got some pics of the mock up I'll post for you guys late Sunday or Monday. I'm out of town now I have no access to my PC or Camera. The front has a pretty nice angle (around 45 degree) coming out of the sub up the lip of the box. That should really help channel all my sound and pressure for a nice bounce off the hatch glass.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I have the supports all cut and liquid nailed on for now with wood screws. Just waiting for them to dry over night before I can liquid nail the other end to the box. I don't have hardly any clearance for the baskets. They are actually almost touching or barely touching the fiberglass it's only the metal part no magnet rubbing, so I'm not to worried about it. I put my grilles on and they barely clear the hatch trim, actually on the driverside outer most corner there was about a 2 mm dent in the grille from the hatch closing so there's no way I can move the subs any higher to get more clearance. They are sitting about 1" lower than the original box so that's probably some of the reason for clearance issues. Anyways I'm getting closer. Here's the mock up pics with the subs mounted (legs only held on with nails in this picture).

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I got all my backbone pieces cut out and modded to fit in. I just need more wood screws and some liquid nails to get that done. There short pieces longest being around 8" or so most being 3" to 5" long. They'll mount with a wood screw off the leg and then liquid nail to the fiberglass wall. Mainly the idea behind this is most of them hit on the flat parts of the fiberglass. That way the "weak part" of the box is going to be all tied together and have support pieces on it and the backbone will also provide more support for the woofers also. Hopefully next week the backbone will be all done and I can think about using the fleece I bought to do the top the week after.

br()bert

Good to hear the time and thought your putting into the box. It will probably most def turn out very nice. Cant wait to see the finished product.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I kind of made a bad cut on the passenger side for fitment against the rear plate. I was around 1/4" to low so now the top of the box comes up even with the roll on the plastic rear plate but I figure I can just do it the way I wanted to and if I have to I'll lay a little bit of fiberglass inside the box on that corner so I can use the sander and buzz a little off so it fits in good again. Not a big deal that's why it's nice to work with fiberglass I guess.


OH I forgot to mention I'm thinking about a new project again!

I'm starting to wonder if 2 18's are going to be enough now I'm debating if I wanna put another pair of 18's behind the roll bar in a box there. I figure I could make the bottom out of fiberglass so it forms to where the seats use to be and the back plate could be MDF since it will run against the gastank slope all the way up to the top of the hump. The front side of the box can be part MDF like 6" or so maybe a little more so I get a nice straight edge and it could also serve as a mounting point it I decided to keep the seat cushion mounting bumps in there. Course I could always just cut those out for more space. I'm guessing the sides could be glassed also. Without taking measurements it's hard to say if I could remove the bottom and sides seperately to work on them outside the car or not. Course before tackling something like this I would build a complete "prototype" structure from cardboard to play with for a while. That would give me an idea how I could piece the thing together for the final construction. Then I can do the top out of glass to fit 2 more 18's in the car. The glass would be rounded so it would appear the gas tank hump comes off and tapers all the way down behind the roll bar.

Only problems I forsee so far is that:
1) It would have to be built in the car due to roll bar.
2) It would be a pain to paint that one so I would probably just get grey carpet for it, which would make it blend into the interior even more.
3) I would have to customize some spot to mount optima batteries on it and 2 more JBL 1200.1s.
4) Angle wouldn't be the best in the world, but I would be using all the space.
5) Yet another project to do and having 4 JBL 1200.1s would eat 450+ amps of power at max draw.

br()bert

Sounds BIG. Hey if you have the desire, time and $ go for it., You seem to have the glass work down pat.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Well actually I need'd a decent amp for the L7 15" and box that I was building for a friend to buy off me and I found a kx1200.1 amp and 2 CVR 18's in a package deally off ebay. I figured if I sell the 15" L7 + box to him and I sell the kx1200.1 to him for little over 500 bucks. Then 2 extra 18" CVRs would run me right around 180 shipped each. The kx1200.1 and 2 CVRs are suppose to be new in the box. I don't know I figured I can always just sell and get my cash back out of them if need'd also. Couldn't pass up a 18" CVR 4 ohm brand new for 180 shipped. Wasn't as good as my 120 shipped each I got for my other CVR but they were in used condition also. + There all '03 models so they will all appear the same.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

dude wtf!... dont go all out on audio on this camaro.. its gunna weigh tonz.. its cool to have a great thump but dont over do it.. use like a blazer or sumtin if your all about audio..but this is a camaro..just tellen ya to think about it

br()bert

Yeah be like everyone else and use a blazer

I dont think hes too worried about weight. He's kinda past that point right now.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Well it's a firebird. And I'm not to worried about the weight. I already have done a crap load of mods to beef up the chassis including a full 8 point roll bar.

I also have a bolt on in my bedroom that I know will haul this beast around pretty well:

4340 forged lower assembly that has all be internally balanced
AFR 210cc Aluminum heads (2.08 intake valve with 1.60 exhaust)
Victor Jr with 750 Speed Demon Double Pumper
All solid roller valvetrain with rev kit and stud girdles to go with the 1.6 pro mag rockers
Full MSD system
3.73 gears

Taken over 4 years of planning and parts collecting.
And my torque converter should flash 3k rpm+. How many cars that are running 383s with a 3k stall hook up on street tires anyways?

All the extra weight might hurt me a little on the big end but considering the closest 1/4 mile strip is like 2 to 3 hour drive I'm not to worried about it. All the extra weight in the back end should hopefully help me plant the tires a little more on the street which this car will be mostly.

crazy3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

whatever its your car lol good luck

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I got a new shipment in today! The Ebay items arrived just like stated 2 18" CVR 4 ohms new in the box and a kx1200.1 new in the box also (Birth Cert. says 1470 watts!). I still gotta decide if I want to keep the 18s or not we'll see maybe one of you guys will offer me 1500 bucks for a replica box and the new subs after I'm done with mine.







The MDF sub structure is in the box and I got the wooden dowels mounted in the box so I can wrap the felt on the under side of them. I'll probably start on the felt wrap Wednesday since I have a public speaking test tomorrow I still gotta study for.

pardonme2711

have u check for clearence and stuff? becuz looking at that last pic when its all said and done will the hatch close i wonder. looks good though.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yes I've already done all my clearance checks.

The magnets touch the fiberglass but I'm positive the box and structure will be sturdy enough that it will not cause vibrations if it does I can always just put a layer of silicone right there and let it dry with the subs out for a cushion.

The subs fit in the box fine with the grills on.. though the driver side pinches the grille about 1 mm or 2mm it's not enough to worry about if I have to I'll just fabricate a new plastic interior piece for the decklid.

The dowels are just in place for the felt to be wrapped under them and for it to be covered in resin and cured. After that the long wooden dowels can come out. There only in place to get the felt to roll nicely. I gave .5" to 1" of buffer room so there should be enough for the hatch shocks to recess into the box.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Lid has been formed. Now the question is... Why didn't I think of waxing the wooden dowels before using the resin?.... Oh well they will probably come out fine with a little work. I'll probably pick up working on it Tuesday since I'm going out of town tomorrow thru Monday.



UPDATE: (couldn't sleep cause I was thinking about the dowels sticking)

I got the passenger side popped out fine it looks good. The driver side popped out ok but left a little bit of wood fragments in the fleece. There's not to much there so I'll just clean it up with some sandpaper next week. Over all it gave me a good shape that should clear the hatch shocks.

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

I envy you so much!! Can't believe I just found this thread!

I'd love to fiberglass a sub box, but after my 1/4 panel job... well, I think I'll stay away from the stuff. I have an MDF one that I built now, but I know I'm wasting my subs!

Wish Tweeter didn't want $800 to build the thing! Though I am starting to think that a few weeks pay would soooooooo be worth it!

Can't wait to see the finished project! Planning on any trips up to Massachusetts?

br()bert

Fireturd, I see its coming along nice!


Arron, tweeter is raping you!

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

Yah, I know... and is sucks. But there's nowhere else to go around here!

pardonme2711

i would honestly say try it yourself. try making kick panels first or soemthing simple. or a small box out of fiberglass. if u cant make it wing not much lost resin and stuff isn't too expensive.