Northern Aluminum Radiator=The Sheezy!
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Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Northern Aluminum Radiator=The Sheezy!
Well, just installed this radiator, here are the vital stats:
Overall Dimensions:
30 3/4” Wide
19 3/8” Tall
3” Tank Thickness
Core Dimensions:
26” Wide
17 3/8” Tall
2 ¼” Core Thickness
2 core 1'' tubes, all aluminum construction, and like it said, there was no epoxy whatsoever.
Now to the good stuff. First of all, the hoses fit very well. The water overflow tank outlet was a little smaller then factory, as well as the heater hose outlet, but with the hoses tight it's working good.
Then came the trans cooler, I only dreaded what could happen with the lines. In my car the lines have some play when they are disconnected, and the top line connection is about 1 1/2 inch lower then factory for a temp sensor accomadation. I just pushed the factory line out and down and it worked fine and there was JUST ENOUGH clearance to be comfortable between the steering linkage at both locks, but I think some people might have problems with it, and a tubing bender might come in handy for them. The nice part is that the fittings for the trans cooler were factory size for my 88. It just bolted right it. And instead of a crappy ONE plate factory cooler this one is SEVEN!!!
The main install was much easier then I expected it to be. If you look at the picture I stole and attached you can see that there is a stupid little drain plug/sensor hookup on the bottom passenger side. WTF?? All I did was drill excessively and made a hole in the lower shroud sheetmetal that was 3/4 of an inch diameter. It was pretty easy and with a 14v cordless didn't take too long. doing the measurements the radiator was just a tad (1/4'' about) too big at the seams for the tank. I coerced the area to accomidate the radiator with a hammer and a crow-bar and it wasn't too difficult. I removed the factory lower rubber insulation (cut it to the AC Condensor radiator thingy) and used some thick thorn proof bike tubing instead, I also put some around the area for the tanks too. Cost me $8 at rite-aid. I then proceeded to lower the radiator in. When doing this, the radiator **** on the drivers side hit the power steering lines, I took it out, lowered it in, and put it back, perfect!
On the top rubber insulation between the radiator and the AC condenser thingy I just shaved it a bit, not too big of a deal.
Finally I tested the upper shroud. I trimmed off the area where it is raised for the factory tanks and it fit in perfectly! I have to say this, but all I did to modify the upper shroud was use some large wire cutters
and slowly hack away at the plastic till it fit, didn't even crack it where I didn't want to! The factory single fan was a little too close, so following other people's lead I used a few 1/8'' washers to space it away and it worked perfectly!
The upper radiator hose is stepped, and factory for me is the smaller one that sticks out more, so the hose gets close to the alternator and doesn't fit against the little protectors so its a little close to the pulley and the serpentine belt, but I don't think it's a problem right now and I'm using some zip ties so this isn't a big issue. I wonder where I can buy the larger 1 1/2'' hose and cut off the excess from the upper inlet so there won't be any issues with leaking or clearance.
Other then that, and hearing other people like kandied's experience with aftermarket radiators I can really support this one. I think that the little outlet on the bottom of the rad was stupid and should be removed entirely, and the upper trans line outlet could have easily been positioned better with regards to positioning the temp sensor port. Other then that, it was a pretty easy near factory fit, with no mods to the lines for the power steering or the AC condensor thingy. And if you're like me you might not have to bend the Trans lines out of the way, and even the the tool isn't that expensive and the procedure isn't difficult.
The webpage for the company that makes it is: http://www.northernfactory.com/
I bought it on ebay listed as 82-92 Camaro, Z-28 Aluminum Race Radiator from UNIVPARTS for $299 + $20 S&H, then I bought their $9.99 20lb stainless steel cap at the same time.
So far my cooling has been good for the 30 miles that I did drive it and there was no leaks (aside from the one on my water pump). Very good, easy to install product. Would install on another thirdgen if I had one.
Overall Dimensions:
30 3/4” Wide
19 3/8” Tall
3” Tank Thickness
Core Dimensions:
26” Wide
17 3/8” Tall
2 ¼” Core Thickness
2 core 1'' tubes, all aluminum construction, and like it said, there was no epoxy whatsoever.
Now to the good stuff. First of all, the hoses fit very well. The water overflow tank outlet was a little smaller then factory, as well as the heater hose outlet, but with the hoses tight it's working good.
Then came the trans cooler, I only dreaded what could happen with the lines. In my car the lines have some play when they are disconnected, and the top line connection is about 1 1/2 inch lower then factory for a temp sensor accomadation. I just pushed the factory line out and down and it worked fine and there was JUST ENOUGH clearance to be comfortable between the steering linkage at both locks, but I think some people might have problems with it, and a tubing bender might come in handy for them. The nice part is that the fittings for the trans cooler were factory size for my 88. It just bolted right it. And instead of a crappy ONE plate factory cooler this one is SEVEN!!!
The main install was much easier then I expected it to be. If you look at the picture I stole and attached you can see that there is a stupid little drain plug/sensor hookup on the bottom passenger side. WTF?? All I did was drill excessively and made a hole in the lower shroud sheetmetal that was 3/4 of an inch diameter. It was pretty easy and with a 14v cordless didn't take too long. doing the measurements the radiator was just a tad (1/4'' about) too big at the seams for the tank. I coerced the area to accomidate the radiator with a hammer and a crow-bar and it wasn't too difficult. I removed the factory lower rubber insulation (cut it to the AC Condensor radiator thingy) and used some thick thorn proof bike tubing instead, I also put some around the area for the tanks too. Cost me $8 at rite-aid. I then proceeded to lower the radiator in. When doing this, the radiator **** on the drivers side hit the power steering lines, I took it out, lowered it in, and put it back, perfect!
On the top rubber insulation between the radiator and the AC condenser thingy I just shaved it a bit, not too big of a deal.
Finally I tested the upper shroud. I trimmed off the area where it is raised for the factory tanks and it fit in perfectly! I have to say this, but all I did to modify the upper shroud was use some large wire cutters
and slowly hack away at the plastic till it fit, didn't even crack it where I didn't want to! The factory single fan was a little too close, so following other people's lead I used a few 1/8'' washers to space it away and it worked perfectly!The upper radiator hose is stepped, and factory for me is the smaller one that sticks out more, so the hose gets close to the alternator and doesn't fit against the little protectors so its a little close to the pulley and the serpentine belt, but I don't think it's a problem right now and I'm using some zip ties so this isn't a big issue. I wonder where I can buy the larger 1 1/2'' hose and cut off the excess from the upper inlet so there won't be any issues with leaking or clearance.
Other then that, and hearing other people like kandied's experience with aftermarket radiators I can really support this one. I think that the little outlet on the bottom of the rad was stupid and should be removed entirely, and the upper trans line outlet could have easily been positioned better with regards to positioning the temp sensor port. Other then that, it was a pretty easy near factory fit, with no mods to the lines for the power steering or the AC condensor thingy. And if you're like me you might not have to bend the Trans lines out of the way, and even the the tool isn't that expensive and the procedure isn't difficult.
The webpage for the company that makes it is: http://www.northernfactory.com/
I bought it on ebay listed as 82-92 Camaro, Z-28 Aluminum Race Radiator from UNIVPARTS for $299 + $20 S&H, then I bought their $9.99 20lb stainless steel cap at the same time.
So far my cooling has been good for the 30 miles that I did drive it and there was no leaks (aside from the one on my water pump). Very good, easy to install product. Would install on another thirdgen if I had one.
Last edited by Joez88Camaro; Sep 8, 2004 at 09:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Just to add to it, when I received the radiator everything seemed very good. There was a small handfull of slightly bend fins, but nothing bad and most of them easily bent back into place but I wonder if I should have done that, oh well. the seams for the welds were and the outlets/inlets were done very nice and had very good coverage. They were also tig welded and with this aluminum piece that is very good to know
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,842
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
I have one of these radiators as well. I plan to remove the brass square head plug in the bottom and relace it with an allen-head aluminum plug. That will eliminate any part of the plug sticking out and won't require drilling any holes in the car.
Universal Parts has good customer service. My first radiator arrived with a big dent in the bottom. I immediatley contacted them and they had it picked up a couple days later and a new radiator arrived the following week. No hassle.
I have some bent fins as well, but it's no big deal to straighten them. Glad to hear your install went pretty smooth.
Universal Parts has good customer service. My first radiator arrived with a big dent in the bottom. I immediatley contacted them and they had it picked up a couple days later and a new radiator arrived the following week. No hassle.
I have some bent fins as well, but it's no big deal to straighten them. Glad to hear your install went pretty smooth.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Ironically I'm needing a new radiator since mine blew up today and this is one I'm looking at. But the main reason I hesitate is that most aftermarket parts don't fit just right and I'm not wanting to trim parts of the car to make it fit. But minor adjustments you guys describe don't sound that bad so I may get this one.
Thanks for the great write up, Joe.
Ed
Thanks for the great write up, Joe.
Ed
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Well, i've got about 400 miles on the thing, so far it's still running great. I've done one other thing since the initial install which was put some more rubbing bike tubing between the driver's side tank and the power steering lines to protect them from excessive heat. Other then that, no leaks (fixed water pump gasket), no overheating, I'll drive 35 miles in one trip and won't worry at all, which is pretty nice. Plus I know that when the time comes to actually get some real performance out of the motor I know that the rad will be up to the task.
Last edited by Joez88Camaro; Sep 21, 2004 at 02:21 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Northern Radiator CR5062
btw I have seen these radiators in person, and I would rather have one of these (under $300) than a BeCool (for around $700-$1000 ?)
If you need and aluminum radiator for a car making closer to 300 hp I feel the stock replace ment from Modine (under $200) is a better deal with the electric fans
btw I have seen these radiators in person, and I would rather have one of these (under $300) than a BeCool (for around $700-$1000 ?)
If you need and aluminum radiator for a car making closer to 300 hp I feel the stock replace ment from Modine (under $200) is a better deal with the electric fans
Last edited by B4Ctom1; Sep 28, 2004 at 07:27 PM.
Over 10K miles on mine. Made it through a lost serpentine belt: red zone temp that pushed opened the 15psi cap.
Kinda the same mods as above...
I removed the lower petcock and went with a plug, a small extension and a socket is all that is needed to drain.
The upper NAPA (ECR) hose seem to fit well on mine no clearance or odd twisting action going on. Might want to try dipping the end into a pot of boiling water to soften.
Kinda the same mods as above...
I removed the lower petcock and went with a plug, a small extension and a socket is all that is needed to drain.
The upper NAPA (ECR) hose seem to fit well on mine no clearance or odd twisting action going on. Might want to try dipping the end into a pot of boiling water to soften.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
where did you get yours and for how much?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I might be able to arrange a group buy for these if anyone is interested. I can't say for how much but definitely less than the $299 + $20
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
any more info on these like basically wha tthey will cool. im looking close to 600hp after nitrous (like 450 n/a) and i need something that isnt $500...be cool to cool it.
will basically any all alumnium radiator with two rows of one inch tubes do the trick? or do i need be cool?
will basically any all alumnium radiator with two rows of one inch tubes do the trick? or do i need be cool?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
any aluminum radiator with the proper dimensions will work..
I believe these weren't designed for 600 hp, but might do it.
It isn't really about brand, it's about quality and the size.
This one is the same size as the direct fit becool. So it cools pretty much exactly the same.
Only this is much cheaper, didn't require much to make it fit, and the connections work perfectly (on my 1988 V8)
So for me it was great.
I believe these weren't designed for 600 hp, but might do it.
It isn't really about brand, it's about quality and the size.
This one is the same size as the direct fit becool. So it cools pretty much exactly the same.
Only this is much cheaper, didn't require much to make it fit, and the connections work perfectly (on my 1988 V8)
So for me it was great.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
unlike mustanks which didnt get an aluminum until 94, the stock aluminum radiators and fans on our cars work nicely on 500-550 hp cars.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I was hoping for more interest, we can still do it, we just need a few more peeps.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 731
Likes: 2
From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
I've gotta testify for this radiator too. I bought one about a month back and I'm impressed at the construction of it. You will have to do a little work to get it to fit, but it's well worth it... in fact, I'm gonna have to switch back up to a 190 or 195 stat to have any heat at all this winter. Let me say this though, its gonna be a REAL pain if you have a/c. I don't anymore, so it wasn't an issue.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 1
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by 1MEAN92RS
I've gotta testify for this radiator too. I bought one about a month back and I'm impressed at the construction of it. You will have to do a little work to get it to fit, but it's well worth it... in fact, I'm gonna have to switch back up to a 190 or 195 stat to have any heat at all this winter. Let me say this though, its gonna be a REAL pain if you have a/c. I don't anymore, so it wasn't an issue.
I've gotta testify for this radiator too. I bought one about a month back and I'm impressed at the construction of it. You will have to do a little work to get it to fit, but it's well worth it... in fact, I'm gonna have to switch back up to a 190 or 195 stat to have any heat at all this winter. Let me say this though, its gonna be a REAL pain if you have a/c. I don't anymore, so it wasn't an issue.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Binghamton, NY
Car: 94 Z-28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Group purchase
Hey B4CTOM..... I'm interested if we can get a group purchase going they sound real nice...... Are they for manual trans. or automatic? Or can you get either?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Im sure I can get both, Im not sure if that was the auto one I was talking about but I think it was.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 731
Likes: 2
From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Duck
What's the problem installing this radiator on cars using AC?
What's the problem installing this radiator on cars using AC?
Later,
Harry
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 1
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by 1MEAN92RS
Please be extra careful with the tranny cooler lines when you hook them up! I made the mistake of cross-threading the bottom line the second time I had this radiator out and all the threads came out with it. These aren't the steel fittings that were epoxied to the stock tanks. Later, Harry
Please be extra careful with the tranny cooler lines when you hook them up! I made the mistake of cross-threading the bottom line the second time I had this radiator out and all the threads came out with it. These aren't the steel fittings that were epoxied to the stock tanks. Later, Harry
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Just to protect from such cross threading accidents, because aluminum is so soft, you can get a brass "bushing" that has the male flare on one side and the identical female flare on the other side. Putting one of these on carefully can help you protect the investment of the radiator.
I have the guy checking on the price as we speak. If his price is lower than the 299+20 price, then I will put up the phone number to call. If not I won't even bother. I just want to make sure the price he quoted me will cover anyone else. Also to make sure that the price has not increased all together.
Im not sure but northern may just be making all of the ones for our cars as the automatic cooler type to save inventory size. For example Northern lists this as a:
"82-92 GM/Pont Camaro/Firebird/TransAm, 88-90 P Series RV/GM HD Truck"
radiator, so if there are any fitment problems this is likely why.
Also please, if you buy this and it doesnt fit due to A/C or anything like that. Try to sort it out with northern before ordering. If anyone at northern tells you it is a bolt on fit with no issues. Make sure to take the guys name at northern.
The guy we are going to get them from is a mustang guy for the most part who tries to discount as much the same to GM, Mopar, import guys etc.
If you buy this radiator from him and try to jump his *** about fitment, he will only be left wondering why YOU didn't know this, because he certaily has never even owned a third gen.
I have the guy checking on the price as we speak. If his price is lower than the 299+20 price, then I will put up the phone number to call. If not I won't even bother. I just want to make sure the price he quoted me will cover anyone else. Also to make sure that the price has not increased all together.
Im not sure but northern may just be making all of the ones for our cars as the automatic cooler type to save inventory size. For example Northern lists this as a:
"82-92 GM/Pont Camaro/Firebird/TransAm, 88-90 P Series RV/GM HD Truck"
radiator, so if there are any fitment problems this is likely why.
Also please, if you buy this and it doesnt fit due to A/C or anything like that. Try to sort it out with northern before ordering. If anyone at northern tells you it is a bolt on fit with no issues. Make sure to take the guys name at northern.
The guy we are going to get them from is a mustang guy for the most part who tries to discount as much the same to GM, Mopar, import guys etc.
If you buy this radiator from him and try to jump his *** about fitment, he will only be left wondering why YOU didn't know this, because he certaily has never even owned a third gen.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
I just got a new northern this last weekend ($220 locally)
What did you do about the hoses? I used the stock ones, but they would not slide on with heat or a little coolant
Any ideas?
What did you do about the hoses? I used the stock ones, but they would not slide on with heat or a little coolant
Any ideas?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
where did you get one for 220?
take the hoses off the engine and put them on the radiator while it is out of the car
take the hoses off the engine and put them on the radiator while it is out of the car
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
where did you get one for 220?
take the hoses off the engine and put them on the radiator while it is out of the car
where did you get one for 220?
take the hoses off the engine and put them on the radiator while it is out of the car

They have had it for 1 year on the shelf, they wantd 250, i offered 220 OTD and they included that little overflow fitting ($2, yea i know)
BUT, back on topic, i tried that with heat and without and with coolant and with a light coating of lithium grease
Im looking to use those flex hoses from the autostore, they just seem cheap... Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
They have less than 6 hours on the, as does the motor/trans.
They are the standard auto store molded hoses. Fit the original rad no problems.
They are the standard auto store molded hoses. Fit the original rad no problems.
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Posts: 2,535
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From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Are you trying to just push it on? You need to "screw" the hoses on. Twist them left to right as you push forward on them.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Haha, i tried it. I would always have a lip come off. I managed to get the top hose about 1/4 " on, but it wouldnt go any further...
Im probably just going to Napa and get the flex hoses...
Im probably just going to Napa and get the flex hoses...
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by Forshock 85TA
flex hoses...
flex hoses...
ewww
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
eeew.. nothing like flex hoses to scream "LAZY!" lol..
take the time and get a proper shape molded hose....
so these radiators.... 2" core... sounds good... does it have a bung on the passenger side radiatior tank?
i need to attach a 1/4" steam bypass hose to the radiator... and im not too fond of my current setup...
if this has a place to screw in a fitting, it would kickass.....
heres what i need to attach:
take the time and get a proper shape molded hose....
so these radiators.... 2" core... sounds good... does it have a bung on the passenger side radiatior tank?
i need to attach a 1/4" steam bypass hose to the radiator... and im not too fond of my current setup...
if this has a place to screw in a fitting, it would kickass.....
heres what i need to attach:
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
no but being aluminum you could take it to a welder or radiator shop that does alum repair also and get the fitting welded on a threaded bung perhaps?
also something to consider:
also something to consider:
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
you just replaced a $100 radiator with a $200 one that works marginally better but you dont want to spend $100 on a hose?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Well lets be more realistic.
Stock replacement (Locally): $189
Northern Replacement (Locally): $220
$30, better radiator.
Stock replacement (Locally): $189
Northern Replacement (Locally): $220
$30, better radiator.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
even more realistic:
flex hose: $12
correct molded hose: $10
depends on the exact hose you get, but you arnt saving money...
plus, while the outlet looks higher on that radiator, i know most radiators in our cars make it so the hose must have a bend in it so it doesnt rub on the idler arm..... a flex hose hits there, rubs, and eventurally wears......
flex hose: $12
correct molded hose: $10
depends on the exact hose you get, but you arnt saving money...
plus, while the outlet looks higher on that radiator, i know most radiators in our cars make it so the hose must have a bend in it so it doesnt rub on the idler arm..... a flex hose hits there, rubs, and eventurally wears......
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally posted by MrDude_1
correct molded hose: $10
correct molded hose: $10
None of the local parts stores can seem to reference me, i have even gone through the entire stock at one myself.
i DONT want flex hose, trust me.
TGO Supporter


Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by Forshock 85TA
Well lets be more realistic.
Stock replacement (Locally): $189
Northern Replacement (Locally): $220
$30, better radiator.
Well lets be more realistic.
Stock replacement (Locally): $189
Northern Replacement (Locally): $220
$30, better radiator.
$149.95 currently showing in stock nearby to you at:
Kragen Auto Parts #1689
15350 Bear Valley Rd , Victorville
Kragen Auto Parts #753
14761 7Th St , Victorville
Kragen Auto Parts #791
16816 Main St , Hesperia
Kragen Auto Parts #4116
20968 Bear Valley , Apple Valley
Kragen Auto Parts #1222
905 Kendall St , San Bernadino
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Hmm... thanks for the help, let me go and get the other radiator that solves it all!! Ive had the stock unit already, i wanted a little more radiator with better construction.
ANYWAYS
Any help with the CURRENT system of things?
ANYWAYS
Any help with the CURRENT system of things?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 17
From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
When I bought my "summit" northern alum rad., I bought a flex hose for the bottom. I like them better, but I ended up not being able to use it.
The flex hose just won't bend enough to clear the idler arm.
I wouldnt never put a flex hose on top, only reason I like them for the lower hose is cause of the spring wire in them.
Stock and years ago the replacement molded lower hoses had a coiled up spring in them. It's really good to have on the lower hose, cause theres been cases where the water pump has sucked the lower hose together (shut) at higher rpm
But now days you can't buy a molded hose with the coils in them.
When the flex hose wouldnt fit mine, I got my molded parts store hose back out, cut up 3 coat hangers, coiled them around a larger deep well socket and stuffed the coiled up coat hangers into the hose and put it back on the bottom
The flex hose just won't bend enough to clear the idler arm.
I wouldnt never put a flex hose on top, only reason I like them for the lower hose is cause of the spring wire in them.
Stock and years ago the replacement molded lower hoses had a coiled up spring in them. It's really good to have on the lower hose, cause theres been cases where the water pump has sucked the lower hose together (shut) at higher rpm
But now days you can't buy a molded hose with the coils in them.
When the flex hose wouldnt fit mine, I got my molded parts store hose back out, cut up 3 coat hangers, coiled them around a larger deep well socket and stuffed the coiled up coat hangers into the hose and put it back on the bottom
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
So you got the 1.25" onto the 1.5" with the stock hoses on top, and 1.5 on 1.75" Lower? because mine wouldnt even come close...
BTW, napa lowers have coil springs in them.
BTW, napa lowers have coil springs in them.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 17
From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Forshock 85TA... Thank's, didn't know napa had the coiled wire in thier lower hoses. I'll check that out
the lower hose I used was..
Auto zone... Kelly Springfield L-259 $7.99
for a 1988 350 FI camaro
The stock camaro rad. hose fittings are 1-5/16" in (top) and 1-9/16" out (bottom)
The nothern rad. I got, the hose fittings are 1-1/2" in and 1-3/4" out
The top hose.. I had a new one laying around from a 75 vette 350, it fit great so I used it.
The top hose went right on, no prob. The lower hose, I did have to put alittle anti frezze in it and "twist" it on, but it wasnt too hard to fit
the lower hose I used was..
Auto zone... Kelly Springfield L-259 $7.99
for a 1988 350 FI camaro
The stock camaro rad. hose fittings are 1-5/16" in (top) and 1-9/16" out (bottom)
The nothern rad. I got, the hose fittings are 1-1/2" in and 1-3/4" out
The top hose.. I had a new one laying around from a 75 vette 350, it fit great so I used it.
The top hose went right on, no prob. The lower hose, I did have to put alittle anti frezze in it and "twist" it on, but it wasnt too hard to fit
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally posted by Night rider327
Forshock 85TA... Thank's, didn't know napa had the coiled wire in thier lower hoses. I'll check that out
the lower hose I used was..
Auto zone... Kelly Springfield L-259 $7.99
for a 1988 350 FI camaro
The stock camaro rad. hose fittings are 1-5/16" in (top) and 1-9/16" out (bottom)
The nothern rad. I got, the hose fittings are 1-1/2" in and 1-3/4" out
The top hose.. I had a new one laying around from a 75 vette 350, it fit great so I used it.
The top hose went right on, no prob. The lower hose, I did have to put alittle anti frezze in it and "twist" it on, but it wasnt too hard to fit
Forshock 85TA... Thank's, didn't know napa had the coiled wire in thier lower hoses. I'll check that out
the lower hose I used was..
Auto zone... Kelly Springfield L-259 $7.99
for a 1988 350 FI camaro
The stock camaro rad. hose fittings are 1-5/16" in (top) and 1-9/16" out (bottom)
The nothern rad. I got, the hose fittings are 1-1/2" in and 1-3/4" out
The top hose.. I had a new one laying around from a 75 vette 350, it fit great so I used it.
The top hose went right on, no prob. The lower hose, I did have to put alittle anti frezze in it and "twist" it on, but it wasnt too hard to fit

For the lower, i slightly "bent/nudged" the edges of the outlet inward, and used a little lithium grease on the hose to slide it on. The hardest part now is just getting to to sit nice and clear everything.
Thanks again.



