I have a 1987 IROC. Red with Carmine red interior. I have a list of hopefulls i plan to do over the winter and i have some questions from u painters out there...

I plan on painting the car this spring, when it gets warm out. I have, am, and will be reading a LOT on it and i will practice when i can. What i need to know right now is if i can safely (not having to worry about too much surface rust) prep it for the paint job over the winter. My passenger quarter is down to the metal (well, about 2/3) and i am going to have to repair some rust (am getting parts of my quarter replaced soon and i have a little bit here and there, extrememly surface, already sander there, not too bad) and what i need to know is if I will be able to coat it with something or use a specific primer to seal the sheet metal from surface rust.. or will it even surface rust while its just sitting in my garage throughout the winter? I really dont know, and i dont want to put all of the work into sanding the car down getting it ready to have to rattlecan it just to seal it and have to do all of the work again.. if anyone has some opinions or know what to do, please help me with this dilema (hehe, 18 kid here, kinda started without thinking about the surface rust..)

Other mods i plan to do over the winter

- Eibach Proline 2" lowering springs
- Replace shocks and struts (any suggestions? i'm open)
- Adjustable Panhard bar*SP?*(any suggestions? i'm open)
- Tubular torque arm (brands?)
- New Trailing arms (brands? prices?)
- New heads and cam (specs in the sig)
- finish my exhaust (specs in the sig.. though they may not be ACS headers anymore...)
- I am gonna replace the driver and passenger seats, the carpet (from red to black), the plastic (from red to black), door panels (prolly just re-upholster), 4th center console, and B&M shifter
- New stereo system.. 7-15" widescreen monitor (if 7, it will be touchscreen) two xplode amps, my HP laptop for the head unit (i have all of it figured out including the mounting...pretty much), infinity 4x6's and 6x9's, and a custom box with two Infinity Kappa Perfect 12" Subs
- Polishing my Iroc rims
- New Yokohoma tires
- And obviously prep and paint the car

Thats all that i can think of right now. I will go ahead and post a buttload of pics tomorrow when it's light out...

Help me out if u guys can, please. I will be asking questions and updating this post over the winter

Thanx a lot!

Rabbitt

 

rabbitt i did mine that exact way. the garage conditions make a big diffrence. my garage is quite dry so i did not get much surface rust after sanding. i did try to leave some paint on the car when i sanded it and did the final push and sanded the last bit off it in the spring when it warmed up. epoxy primer is the best sealer but i don;t know how well it will spray in the cold i would assume 60 is the lowest you could have the garage and have it cure. i would stay away from the rattle cans or you will have to sand it all off again.

this pic was during winter some bare metal but not lots

 

this was the spring when i was really pushing to get the work complete. it really comes down to weather your garage is heated and how warm you keep it and how dry it is. even stripping the last of this and waiting a month or two to paint i was getting some real small surface rust on the flat surfaces. there was none that i saw in the winter.

good luck with your project keep us updated.

jeff

 

Hey Jeff...
I pm'd u awhile back.. I guess u didn't get it so here is my plan for when i go paint..

Some things have changed but i dont want to rewrite it. I am also not gonna go with blue, im gonna stick with red, prolly candy-apple.

Anyone who has painted, please correct my mistakes with this plan.

 

Well, i just got the IROC back from the bodyshop. Here are some pics of the work that they did, and some pics of my car... excuse the very messy garage.. i need to clean it out. Also, the IROC is extremely dirty cause i had to drive it back from bodyshop in the rain.. and i was kinda behind a dumptruck, filled with dirt and crap.. needless to say, she looks like a mess.
It was kinda funny tho.. i took the car in on wednesday (to have some sheet metal welded in place of some cancer).. i had the q-panel stripped to the metal (well, a good amount of it was anyway)..and the shop guys left in in the rain.. so, as a 'sorry', they bondo'd, prepped, and primered all of the damaged areas! i was pretty happy, needless to say... and it only cost me $110 for the work.


The little Red IROC.. lol, dirty, but thats her! By next spring she will be painted bright candy-apple red

Nose-scrape.. a lot of us have it.. good thing i didn't put it there..!

As u can see, i need to replace my grill, my bumper cover (extremely cracked when the grill is broken) and maybe my front ground efx piece (i will decide on that after i get the new bumper cover..) its just mounting funny.. could be the bumper, tho..

My 3" bolt-on Harwood Cowl Hood.. slightly faded (came with car)

Part of the fixed cancer (yes, that is tape holding the taillights in.. i was lazy that day)

yet another

yet another

and yet another..

That'll do it for tonight.. i'll take the car out of the garage tomorrow if it is nice and get some more pix of more problems.. like the Carmine Red Interior (YUCK)

 

oo, i almost forgot.. My new rims came in today!




17x9.5 besides a 17x11.. guess which one is which


Brand Spanking new!


AFSWheels!

I'm extremely happy with them.. one of the best buys i've ever made - $300 for $1000 rims!

Rabbitt

 

Darn the pics don't work.

 

pics worked fine for me....looks good so far.....keep up the good work

 

looking good.

 

Works good now! Looks like a fun project off to a good start.

 

looks like where i started...... nice project. i think the free primering they did was to prevent it from rusting to crap while it was in the rain. if the primer is just 2k sandable primer i would take it off and give it a epoxy coat. that way there is no moisture stuck in the primer to cause you problems down the road.

add to your material list tack rags, and 3m dry guide coat and sem spray guide coat. you will need the guide for smoothing filler it is a incredable help to know when to stop sanding the filler. the spray you will use for the wet sanding the 2k before spraying your base coats and that will be your final check for dents i found 2 at that stage. also add a post sanding cleaner wax grease remover type product your gonna wanna wipe the car down before spraying any coats of anything and in between every step of spraying. you should always wipe with cleaner and then tack before spraying. (only do before you start not in between coats)

as for the suspension stuff i used spohns great to deal with. and the eiback springs and koni shocks.

looking good nice rims too

 

how did you get those wheels for so cheap?

 

thanx for the info, i'll make sure i get all that when i start
one thing.. i know what what tack rags are (as in i can go buy them) but what do u do with them? or will they prolly have directions?

Also, i got these rims for cheap because i shopped eBay! On AFSwheels.com they cost something like $1000.. i got them for $300 cause i bought them from a guy who needed a different offset than what he bought, so he gave them up cheap.. made me happy.. now i just gotta get spacers ($310 just for spacers.. ouch) and tires ($650 is what i came to).....G0D, it would have been so much cheaper to stick with the IROCs... lol, but i like these better.. and im happier with em!

Rabbitt

 

Well, its been a couple of months (like four.. lol) and my priorities have changed....
All that i have succeeded in getting done was remove the bumper, ground effects, halch, and the interior (minus the dash and steering colum). I am doing a medical study as of right now and this is what i plan to do with the money i get from it...
Mr. Tom/Spray - $150.00 (i may have a local body shop spray the paint if i chicken out or if i feel like i cant create a good enough enviroment... but if i do spray, i will prolly copy Jeff's setup)
Primer - $145.00
Base Coat - $145.00
Clear Coat - $145.00
Reducer - $50.00
WS/Buff - $200.00
Front G. Efx - $100.00
Body Filler - $40.00
Money I owe GF - $250.25
Front Bumper and side/door G. Efx - $115.00 - already bought
2 House and Cell payments (lost hours at work) - $380.00
Gears and Such - 600.00 - rearend
Axels - $255.00 - rearend
Differential Cover - $100.00 - rearend
Carpet $250.00
Seats - $200.00 (i know its not much to budget for, but i only want front seat, and fourth gen cloth would be fine)
Plastic interior pieces - $150.00
Door Panels - $75.00 - already bought
4th gen center Console - $100.00
Tires - $498.59 (Sumitomo - Front are 275-40R17 and rear are 315-35R17)
Mounting - $40.00 (tires onto rims)
Spacers - $309.00 (Skulte)
Headers - $340.00 (Hooker 2460 ceramic coated from Summit)
Jim Exhaust Fab - $150.00 (My exhaust guy)
T-top - Car - $160.00 - Weatherstripping
T-top - Lip - $170.00 - Weatherstripping
Complete Kit - $120.00 - Weatherstripping
Window Felt - $85.00 - Weatherstripping

Most these prices are prices I have found on the net (all the weatherstripping prices are exact, after shipping) while a few (the front ground efx and such) are what i have seen them go for and hope to get. I would have more done, but my girlfriend and i recently bought a house (I just turned 19, btw) and we have been spending a lot of time fixing it up... so no car time.. lol

I have a question when it comes to primer, bc, cc. I know i need a good etching epoxy primer... Do i need another primer on top of that between the the epoxy and the bc? And when it comes to wetsanding and buffing the cc, how easily could i ruin my paintjob (kinda afraid to westsand and buff)? Or should i just have a shop do that part?
Here are the products i think i need to get for the paint.. if there are any others, PLEASE let me know:

Primer:
KP-21 KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER - A
KP-21B KWIKURE EPOXY CATALYST - B

KP-21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job.

Basecoat:
SHIMRIN® METALLIC BASES

Available in coarse or ultra-fine metallic, each offers full coverage in 3-4 coats. Clear for a final finish, or use as a base for Kandys. With their unique chemical make-up, they may be top coated with either acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel.

Clearcoat:
KOSMIC KOLOR URETHANE ENAMEL KLEAR (UC-35)

UC-35 is a 3.5 VOC, National Rule and SCAQMD Rule 1151 compliant version of UC-1. It may be used to topcoat any urethane or polyurethane enamels, and any SHIMRIN® Base Coat color. UC-35 gives a high-gloss, has excellent weathering and UV resistance. UC-35 dries fast and hard, and can be colored sanded and buffed the next day.

All of these are House of Kolor... Any other suggestions are GREATLY welcome...

Thanx a lot for the help guys, i know that if i didn't have ya around i would be shelling out so much more money to have all of this stuff done for me by the pros!

Rabbitt

 

Just be carefull when wet sanding. Do a little bit at a time. And wipe the water off u will see how far u are going down. Other tings u need are Tape, paper, mask, buffing compounds, Buffing pads, Seems like little stuff but they add up real fast. What kind of gun u going to use?

 

That's a good question... lol, what would u suggest? my price range for that would around $100 or so, i doubt i would use it for more than one or two cars..
Also, are there any companies that make masking paper with the tape already applied to one edge? with, i dunno, a wax paper stip stuck to it that u remove before applying to the car? I coulda sworn i had seen something along those lines, but i have no idea where...
Thanx
Rabbitt

 

Another couple of questions...
How much sealer will i need between the primer and basecoat? Will one or two quarts work? Or should i get 4?

Oh, and also, what all is involved with changing the color of the car? Is it just the area behind the taillights, the door jambs, the hatch creases, and the engine bay? Because im planning on taking care of that and repainthing those anyway, and im changin my interior color to black and grey... So would i be alright changing the color from red to ____ (i dunno, some type of blue maybe, maybe silver...anything but red)? Im not looking for show quality, but i am taking the paint down to the metal... would changing be a problem?

Sorry about all of the question and the information overload... Thanx for all the help

Rabbitt

 

I found a site for snad paper. supergrit.com all the paper i bought cost 170.00 if it was 3m it would have been around 400. And it mirka not the best paper but works fine for me. About change the color yes u can do it. U can do what ever u want its your car. I'm change the color now on a car. Alot of tight spots to get to.But U can to it takes a little more time. The paper i have use everything from newspaper(it sucks) to good paper. I like keystone paper it folds real nice and it thin allmost looks like it has a wax coat on one side. For sealer i would think 2Q's would be enuff. U could very easy spend anywere from 200 to 400 on the paper,tape,plastic,ect .ect.

 

KS-12 METALLIC PRIMER-SEALER
KO-SEAL II is a high quality sealer designed to:

Act as a bond coat between primer and top coats.
Act as a holdout agent to prevent topcoats from soaking into the primer and reducer.
Make the object to be painted an appropriate color for faster coverage of top coat.
Can be applied over properly prepared and sanded previously painted surfaces first topcoats.
KO-SEAL II can also be used as a fast drying and excellent sanding primer.
MIX RATIO 4:1:1 - 4 PARTS PRIMER/ 1 PART KU-150/ 1 PART RU REDUCER.
NATIONAL VOC RULE - 4.58 LB/GAL 550 G/L.

i think you also need this primer as your surfacer, sandable this is after the epoxy and before the base, get a gallon of each epoxy and primer, you may not need the metalic primer depends on your base color, you will need 2-3 coats of epoxy and then two to four coats of primer then wet sand the primer with a guide coat like sem sprayable, that way it is all nice n smooth.
here is a great deal on a user freindly buffer i have the exact one and it is great.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=T2

here is the compound i used very forgiving for learing to buff no worries about burning the paint and the resulst are top notch
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=M3

check out his other stuff too len has some great prices.

as for a gun get a devilbis finish line III they are around 120 and do a good job for the money, safer than a harbor freight ect, and you can shoot all your products wioth the same gun, i did.

put 3 coats of clear on you paint let cure 24 hours wet sand and add 2 more coats of clear and then buff.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rabbitt
[B]Another couple of questions...
How much sealer will i need between the primer and basecoat? Will one or two quarts work? Or should i get 4?

changing the color from red to ____ (i dunno, some type of blue maybe, maybe silver...anything but red)?

how about kbc01 brandy wine still a red kinda
or kbc 06 burgandy
or kbc 11 apple red
or kbc03 wild cherry

all these mimic candy paint without doing the three stage paint job. i was told they work great. did you get the chips from hok yet?

jeff

 

Hey jeffW i was going to get that Sure Finish Polish. Did it work out for u ok.Len over there said u don't need to use a wool pad and than a foam one? How much did u use on the hole car?

 

jay i used less than a quart, i did my car truck and wifes car with a quart. i used the sure finish wool pad. and tried the orange pad. hated the orange pad, got better results with just the wool.

i like how it works, very friendly. no burns nice shine. i used both wool pads the one that came with my makita and the sure finish pad and really seen no diffrence between the pads.

i used NXT by hand after the sure finish and that really brought out the shine.

jeff

 

http://www.hokpaint.com/scripts/depo...okprimseal.bbx

Ok, bear with me... lol

1. Start with the body filler (applied to the bare metal).. block sand until even and smooth

2. Spray 2-3 coats of Epoxy primer (HOK KP21-GL KWIKKURE EPOXY PRIMER PART A and HOK KP21B-QT KWIKKURE EPOXY PRIMER PART B ACTIVATOR) do i wetsand at this point?

3. Spray 2-4 coats of (HOK KS10-GL WHITE PRIMER SEALER KO-SEAL II and HOK KU150-QT EXEMPT CATALYST) Then i need to wetsand with a SEM sprayable guide coat until baby-but smooth... could u sent me a site as an example of it, so i grab the right stuff?

4. Then I need to spray 2-3 coats of paint (HOK KBC01-QT BRANDYWINE KANDY B/C SHIMRIN KANDY BASECOAT). How long do i wait before i spray the clear?

5. Spray 3 coats of clear (HOK UC35-GL KOSMIC KOLOR URETHANE KLEAR), wetsand, and let cure for 24 hours. Spray two more coats of clear and then buff? or do i wetsand and buff?

If there are any products or steps that i forgot, please correct me and lead me onto the right path.

Thank you so much, Jeff

Rabbitt

 

sounds good, no need to wet sand your epoxy...i did my filler work on the epoxy and that worked just fine too, one train of thought is if you had a chip get to the filler it would alow water to get to the steel body and cause rust. i guess it would be a hell a chip. filler on either bare or epoxy is fine.

read the tech sheets for dry time i think it is an hour min 24 hour max,


sem guide coat, one can will do ya
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PSH


3m guide coat great for leveling filler on steel. really shows you were your at.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=FM

jeff

 

Awesome. To tell u the truth, that is a big relief! I just want to make sure im buying the right stuff, that everything will work together and i dont mess up on something big, ya know? Thanx a LOT for the help, and i will be sure to show all of the progress pics when i get home from this place!

Thanx man

Rabbitt

 

Do i need to add a flex agent to the bumpers , ground efx, and hood? And if i do, does HOK make one? Also, what should i do about the blackouts for the headlight buckets? Should i just grab a quart of black paint (HOK of course) and tape off the buckets (after im done with the basecoats) and give them a couple of coats?

Thanx

 

if you painting them on the car it really is not needed, mine are holding up just fine with out it.

paint the buckets after you clear the car, you can;t tape directly to hok paint unless you add the innercaot clear, tape will remove the base color. you could innercoat clear the area and then paint the black, or do you first coats of clear wet sand do the black then clear the last two coats.


jeff

 

mmk, thanx, i'll do that