http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

Anyone have experience with these, or have opinions on them. They aren't "name brand" but names dont really mean crap to me.

 

They are the same design as Alstons, which just connect the front and rear frame rails. Personally, I would consider perimeter style SFCs like Spohns before making a purchasing decision; the Spohns provide more welding points to the car, four-piece bracing instead of the two seen here, and will not sacrifice your ground clearance like the Alston style will.

 

Ground clearance is not an issue for me at all.

They look simmilar to the competition engineering ones I think... does anyone else think so?

 

They look like perimeter style to me. The one with the bend goes on the passenger side and doesn't look like enough of a bend to go over the exhaust like my alstons do.

 

Those are outboard mount, NOT inboard like alstons, have you installed a set or been in a car with alston / mac subframes ?

 

Exhaust clearance means absolutly nothing to me either.

If I had the tools and knowledge I'd just buy the ones that require you to notch the floor pan, but I cant.

I dont care what brand these look like. I just want to know if they would be worth the money.

 

Not worth the money. They have no triangulation. There is no mention of the square tubing size or thickness. I would not trust that they are made from thick enough steel. Overall it looks like someone attempt to make a buck off of substandard materials.

For $55 more, http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1309 , you get round tubing thicker DOM and seamless. Plus you are getting trangulation. These are far superior and worth the little extra cost. I would not waste my money on the Ebay knockoffs.

 

Thanks, thats what I was lookin for.

 

go with the spohns

 

I've heard those are actually decent for the money. Then again, those have gone up in price a bit.

I know the Spohn's are good, but what about competition engineering boltins? I can get a set of those for $130 shipped..

 

Sorry if I misunderstood, but the description on the auction says "connects the rear control boxes to the front frame rails." That sounds like Alston to me, I just mixed up the LCA boxes and the rear frame rails. :shrug: But I see how it works now.
No, I don't weld. Yes, I've been in a car with them.

 

anyone have a picture with the spohns on their car?

im trying to see what ones i want. i was going to buy the ones Lon @ TDS sells, but i have not seen many SFC from other companies.

 

The alstons that lon sells work quite well, spohn has pictures of his installed on his website, if your really out for a tight car, install both. I've already got the alstons, i'll be adding the spohns later...

 

Where can you get competition engineering bolt in sfcs for 130?

 

hmmm...yes I would be interested in seeing the a pic of the spohns installed too.

Anyone running Hotchkis?

 

I got them and I like them. Just drill the holes in the rales before you put them in the car. Would probably be a good idea to weld the big metal plates that go inside the car to the sheet metal in the floor.

 

I got hotchkis and im about to cut them off today cause im getting a custom 8 point CM Roll Bar. I also might have them make me some sfc's and weld the roll bar to them but havnt decided yet cause im sure with just the roll bar it will be 10x's better then the Hotchkis sfc's.

 

My recommendation is probably the most expensive option to go for, but if ground clearance and exhaust routing are not a problem for you, then I highly recommend that you go with S&W Racecars SFC's. I installed them in my 92 Z-28, n' the stuff works awesome. I also go the matching torque arm that mounts to the SFCs instead of the tranny. Here's sum pics:




The set-up will take up quite a bit a ground clearance regardless of what S&W says. the larger exhaust tubing required that we add a slight bend to the piping to clear. and we had to modify the crossmember that connects the two SFCs together so that we wouldn't lose so much ground clearance. That's not a required step, but my dad decided to do just so we would have more clearance... speed bumps and steep driveways aren't a problem now that the stock springs are back in place.
Next time the car is completely jack up, I'll snap some pics of the finished install w/the modified crossmember n' finished exhaust.

 

Maybe if u ran open headers that would be alright other wise the exhaust would hang really low and look stupid.

 

oh, yeah... forgot to mention that the exhaust piping doesn't go under the crossmember. it's just hanging in the picture cuz it's not done. the pipe actually goes ABOVE the crossmember, past the driveshaft loop.