Hey guys,

I'm not really new here...I've been a long time reader of the bottomless pit of knowledge this site contains. Ok, getting onto topic, I've been searching a few days now but still cannot seem to find the right post that will cure my current woes. I have an 89 formula that has a 3.34 Amp draw at rest. As of right now I know that the Alternator contributes to this (about 300 mA). This leaves me with 2.92 Amps still draining my battery. And now to the good stuff of which I have checked.

The three fusible links at the starter
- the single link is the alternator (alternator is disconnected now)
- the other two fusible links on the single ring terminal appear to be going to IIRC the CTSY, ARC, TAIL, and INST. LAMPS and that is as far as I know of now (stated fuses are pulled)

tracing the (+) terminal from the battery leads into the 2 smaller gage wire (orange), one of which leads up to a solder joint of 8 orange wires (5 larger and 3 smaller), two of the smaller ones have a draw and were tested to be the ECM wires, the final small one has no draw. of the 5 large, one is constant power, and one has the 3.3 now 2.9 Amp draw (the other 3 have no draw).

I do not know where the larger wire with the current draw runs to as of yet (as well as the other 3).

Every connector under the hood that I could see was disconnected and tested for any change in current

-3 relays next to brake booster
-relay by A/C
-all but knock, IAC, TPS, Oxygen, coolant sensor (near knock sensor) have been disconnected to no avail.

onto the interior

-I have a car alarm installed and the power fuse has been taken out
-all fuses were taken out and current checked (including ARC and VATS up by the buzzer)
-radio taken out
-computer taken out, and the 4 connectors on the steering column were disconnected
-door lock relay and starter enable relay in the lower driver side kick was disconnected
-door locks disconnected, dome light taken out, doors closed while testing current draw by the way
-the only other "Hot at all times" part I have not disconnected is the power mirrors

the trunk release relay and connector to the power take down motor in the back were disconnected and the cargo area light was made sure to be off when testing as well...I still have a 2.92 Amp drain

As it comes down to it, it appears that I very well could have a stripped wire grounding out to the chassis somewhere (I really hope this is not the case)

I will be purchasing the service repair manual after memorial day...but until then maybe some more brain power on the issue could help.

I greatly appreciate any help you could give me on this subject

(Sorry for such a long post, my first post even)

Thanks,

Joe (89Formulabird)

 

Welcome to the board. I will help you what I can. I've had a similar problem before (also an 89 'bird, imagine that). My draw was only about 750mA, and turned out to be the glove box light (switch broke, light stayed on).

The alternator does not (at least not supposed to) contribute 300mA draw. Total draw for all factory devices (ecm, radio memory, etc) should not exceed 75mA.

Since you've found the wire carrying your 3 amp draw, if you connect everything but that wire, and then see what electrical devices are nonfunctional, that should give you an idea where it goes.

One idea that's entirely outside of the diagnostic loop (worth trying anyway). Unplug your headlight motors. I've heard they can do goofy things.

edit-- I have the 89 factory service manual. I'll try to get out to the garage tomorrow and find it. I'll see where it says that wire goes.

 

Thanks black89ws6,

I only hope soon enough I can start helping other fellow thirdgenners out around here...college and jobs take up a lot of my time.

Since my posting, I have won on ebay an 88 service manual that from looking at it seems to be the very thing that I needed, thanks for checking the 89 service manual. I also am borrowing a Fluke Power Quality Analyzer that has a hall effect sensor (current to voltage converter) that I haven't had too much time to use. I'll have to try pulling the headlight motor connectors soon, it seems to be the only thing left. I'll post anything that I find out to help anyone out in between my fiberglassing a new t-top headliner with blue neon replacing the dome light (it looks promising but if not I at least gained some more experience right?? plus it keeps me out of trouble )

** Oh by the way, anyone looking for a service manual might want to try books4cars.com , they are a company out of seattle that apparently have the 89 service manual that helm no longer has in stock

 

Sounds like you're well on the way to figuring it out. If you've never had a helms manual before, you will like it very much. The contain so much more info than a haynes or chilton manual, plus they're not written so dumb than any idiot can understand them.

After having looked at the diagram, I don't think headlight door motors are the culprit. If they were, the drain would be coming off the fuselink at the starter solenoid.

Just incase you don't want to wait for the mail...