This is my experience with my '88 IROC. I've done searches and read all the Code 36 posts and MAF burnoff related stuff. None which have helped me. So, maybe I was the one with an uncommon Code 36 component related failure. The following DID NOT solve my Code 36 :

Followed the GM factory service manual and other service manuals for the correct troubleshooting procudeure and for other "hints."

Replaced both MAF Power and MAF burnoff relays with new ones at the same time 4 times with different brands

Changed the oil pressure switch

Checked for bad grounds all over the engine bay and engine including the rear of both cylinder heads

Replaced ECM

Inspected ECM wire harness and harness to ECM pins and ports for damage. None found

Checked bulkhead connector. Nothing fried or burnt.

Checked most of the wiring harness (that I could see and touch) from the ECM to MAF and possible grounds

Code 36 continued to appear even after the TH700 trans was rebuilt (due to front pump failure and not due to Code 36)

Replaced MAF sensor connector harness with a new one

Battery voltage was not low


After the wild goose chase I finally decided to just replace the MAF sensor itself. Sure enough, the MAF sensor was the problem and nothing else . Why? After doing all of the following listed above, Code 36 only started to appear everytime I started the car. The GM service manual states that the MAF shouldn't be suspected of a Code 36. After what I went thought, I say the MAF sensor should also be suspected of a Code 36. In the past the MAF senor was also responsible for drivability problems (years prior to Code 36). Replacing it solved the drivability problems.

Maybe my Code 36 was "unusual." I hope this helps everyone here on this board. You don't know how embarrassing this problem was (shutting the car down after Code 36 appears after starting it, opening the hood, pulling the ECM power fuse to clear codes, and drive off). Also, this problem made the car less enjoyable to drive knowing the code would come back any time the engine was started.

 

Was the faulty MAF sensor de-screened? Just curious.

 

Yes, the screens on my MAF were taken out and the car ran fine for years. So, this new MAF will stay stock and I'm going back to paper air filters for now. I'd sure like to get the non-oiled stainless steel air filters that I've seen lately.

 

What gm means by that is that since you have a code 36 you should not immediately suspect the MAF. It is very common for the MAF power relay and/or the MAF burn-off relay to go bad. These are prone to sticking especially in a vehicle that sits all winter. The relays are only $12.00 at the dealer as apposed to a $600.00 MAF. That is what they mean by that statement. They want you to go through the checklist first to eliminate possible causes.

 

Wow - that sounded like a mess but good info for the toolbox!

 

Yup, you don't know how much of a pain it was. Especially not being able to enjoy driving it knowing that you'll have to clear the codes everytime you start the car.

 

Well im haveing a simular problem ... code only comes after i start the car the relays check out ecm gets 12 volts on the burn off wire but does not glow orange when the relay comes on. I wish i could find another one to swap out to check but ill keep looking for other possibilitys. until i know for certain.

Oh by the way why did you have to reset the comp before driveing off would the car not drive right? MIne still runs fine when i get the code just the light stays on.

thanks.

 

It will run but it will go to "limp home mode" or stay open loop (read that rich)so it will be a pig on gas.

 

Son of a gun THATS MY PROBLEM! no wonder it still gets bad gas mileage after i moved the o2 sensor. Fixed the o2 but my MPG went from 10 to 16 while thats an improvement thats nothing like it supposed to get. Hmmm guess ill be fixeing this problem asap!

Thanks for that little gem!

 

Heres another thing to keep in mind. 3 of every 4 AFTERMARKET remanufactured computers are JUNK! If you have had a computer fail on you and you replaced it with an aftermarket reman. (actually GM's remans are done by the same companies!) do not be surprised if you get a code afterwards. I had my origional fail on me and I knew of the odds of getting a bad computer from the aftermarket but cash flow forced me into purchasing one. As soon as I started the car I got a MAF code. I replaced both the relays first as I know these are common, and still got the code. I started to question the computer and returned to where I bought it. I got a reman maf from them and told them I suspected the computer was my problem. I also told them that if I installed this new MAF and still got the code (no return on electrical items) I was going to bring back the computer AND the MAF and they WERE going to take it back! Installed the MAF and STILL got the code. So now I have replaced everything in that circuit and still have the code 36 so I know the 'puter is bad. Take it all back, get another computer, put it in the car, BAM, code gone! BUT it doesn't end there. Install new 'puter and car runs like sh-t till it gets temp. Scan it, and the 'puter is being told the motor is at 250 degrees! I check coolant temp and its at 180 as it should be and fans come on as they should. Install a knew coolant temp sender and wire to the computer (maybe broken?) No luck. Car still running at 250 degrees even after I have just started the car in the morning. Thats not possible. Pull the friggin 'puter again and go back to get a third 'puter! Put it in the car, BAM, runs like a champ, no code, no 250 degrees temp signal! The moral of my long post is that reman 'puters are questionable at best. If you need one and can afford it, get a brand new GM 'puter and save yourself a possible world of headaches! I'm not bashing any parts stores (carquest) because there service was great. They never once questioned my returns and were helpfull when I had problems. I new from speaking with other mechanics of the quality of the remans and now I have seen it first hand. So be carefull.

 

i've been having this code 36 problem for a while too, and recently it's gone into that 'limp home mode'...i thought i had bad gas, but after changing itlast night thats not the case..so i'll start with the relays i guess? where are they located?

i also have a hypertech and a 160* stat in the car..which i read can prevent closed loop operation..

 

Not understanding how companies can print that bullsh-t! Even if you run a lower stat the fans won't come on till 200 degrees to keep the car at 180. You need to modify the 'puter to allow the car to run at 160! Closed loop is a 'puter controlled issue determined by sensor input not thermostat temp. Unless the car is running SO cool that it never reaches normal operating temp which is virtually impossible. That would be the only justification for they're statement. Limp home mode is a mode that the 'puter switches to when a sensor indicates that it is out of the range of its normal pre programed values. Therefor anytime that code (or light) is triggered you are in limp home mode. Running rich like that for extended periods can melt the cat and/or poison the o2 sensor. Maf relays are usually located with the spark control module. Should be a batch of 4 modules. Spark control, fuel pump relay, maf power relay and maf burn-off relay.

 

my car effed up on me yesterday. everyonce in awhile (couple days to weeks) teh check engine light comes on and it starts running lke crap, i was able to turn the car off and back on right away the problem went away. yesterday it was doing fine, i had to come to a stop rather quickly yesterday and bam, started running like crap(thought mabey transmission related). i pulled over shut it off, turned it back on check enigne light on and runs like crap. wait a couple mins turn it back on and i hafta give it gas right away to keep it running or else it would just die. pop the hood and theres smoke coming out between the firewall and dist cap (Mechanic told me the smoke could have been the distributer seal leaking onto the exhaust). so i drive it to work, scan it and it says its the MAF and something about the scanner and computer not comunicating properly (same mechanic told me that the computer could have been replaced with one from a 305 and doesnt work 100% with a 350) so i priced out a maf 400$. computers easily 5-600$.. if anyone has anykinda help they can give me that would be cool, i know u pready much need to see the car in person to know exactly wat the problem is, but any help/info is great.

also where online should i start lookin for a cheaper MAF or should i go with the $400 gm replacement (all in CAD funds)

 

The " not communicating" issue might be a bad computer. I wouldn't think oil out of the distributer will reach the exhaust but I could be wrong. I would get the car scanned on a second scanner ( a good quality one not a cheap walmart style) just to verify the scanners results. That not communicating signal is one I also got when my origional computer crapped on me. I would scan it and get that reading, then turn the key off and on and get about 30 codes spit out all at once. Try a second scanner to verify.

 

well i read about the relays sticking, so i figured alright if i smack them around a little bit maybe they'll be unstuck..so i went down the line taking off the relays and tapping them a little bit on all sides. i started up the car after i did the power relay and the check engine light was off, but it came on within seconds..then i did the burnoff relay and the light stayed off for a little while, then came on but it was running great with no idle issues..and the exhaust sounded different, also wasnt running as rich. i disconnected the battery for a couple minutes, hooked it back up and no check engine light . before you go out and spend 18 dollars per relay, try a little percussive maintenance

 

the scanner i used is a snap on. so its deffinatly not a cheap scanner issue. today when i started it up, it ran like ****in ****. wouldnt idle unless i kept on the gas. if i gave it 1/2-3/4 throttle it would almost die then jump to 2000rpm, i herd a loud clunk at lke 100 rpm(yes 100), and it wouldnet keep a constant rev(jumped 2-3000 constantly.) the clunk i would guess is not all cylindres are fireing so the motor mounts hiting the frame causing the clunk. im at a loss as to waht to do, i dont want to go and spend 400$ on a MAF to find out its still gonna run like crap, but i also dont wanna spend another 5-800$ on a new computer to find out thats not the issue either. i guess i could find antoehr scanner to scan it but the one im using is like 4 months old. anywhere else i go id have to spend 60-80$ for them to scan it. it sucks cause this all came outa nowhere, driving along had to brake hard sudenly and from there on it drove like ****. im kinda thinkin its more of a ****ed up computer. (this was mostly venting with a few questions)

 

have you checked the relays..it was the first thing i checked and it fixed my problem that i've been having for a while..same problem as yours..well without the smoke, but the idle was responding the same way

 

If you are using the snap-on scanner that should eliminate a scanner issue. I checked mine on two different snap-on's ( fortunately I have access to them) and got the same results. Your description sounds very similiar to mine. I scanned it and got "no communication" which made no sense because I had scanned it a week earlier looking for a fluctuating (1-200 rpm up and down) idle and could find an intake leak anyware. Anyway I scanned it again and got no communication then turned the key off and on and got a bunch of codes over and over. That pretty much told me I had a 'puter issue. Just for sh-ts and giggles check all your grounds for the computer just to make sure. I think at this point I would see what a used computer at a wrecking yard might be worth. Probably about the same as another scan cost. You are getting a code right?

 

what i did today was first replace the MAF with a new one. didnt fix the problem so i put the old one back in. took the computer out of my 87 305 tpi TA and put into the 87 350 tpi GTA. i still haveto give it gas to get it to idle. it runs with no messed up idle and is burning so rich theres smoke out the tail pipes. fuel pressure is right on 35-45PSI(should it fluctuate or stay at one pressure?). when i give it gas it hesitates quite badly and teh check engine light is on constantly. im wondering if mabey the 305 computer needs to learn what the 350 needs? do i need to drive it more and hope it will learn? on the drive home it did well except for the hesitating from a stop, if i was goin like 15 mph and gave her some gas it seemed all right. when we scanned it with the new comp its still gives us the communicating error, in the scanner manual it says when u get that it could be o2 sensors need replacing. all of ur guyses(sp?) info is helping alot so thank u. if u need anyother info from me just ask. ill try the MAF relay from the 305 as well.

ps...the 305 car only gave me a check engine light when i was out on the highway so i never botherd to get it checked. could that issue have stayed in the comp and possibly cause issues in the 350 car?

 

Maybe someone else can weigh in on this but I don't believe the two 'puters are interchangable. Little help here?

 

I cleared the codes each time I started the car so it wouldn't be "inefficient" while driving.

 

the part numbers on each computer are the same, and the guy at lordco (like autozone) said they are the same computer.