Well, someone ended up pouring antifreeze in my gastank the other night. I tried startin it a bunch times so it got kinda flooded w/ antifreeze.

This is how i went about things. I let the fuel pump run out all the gas .. then put in some premium (93 octane) to try and burn it off. As of now, one of the cylinders doesnt work. The cylinder on the passenger side closest to the front of the car (#2 cylinder) doesnt work. I took the whole system apart and looked at the injector... it seemed ok. I hooked up 12 volts to it and the injector clicks. i also blew into one end while i was clicking and got some of the fuel inside of it to squirt out. as i blew and was clickin i noticed everything seemed ok with the injector. So i put it back in. The cylinder is still missing. I have checked for spark and im getting it all the way to the plugs w/o a problem. I check the injector connector to see if it was loose or broke. Didnt notice anything. So i ended up swaping the injector connector (another wire that is supposed to fire another injector onto that one), just to see wut would happen, and it still ran the same. the same cylinder is missfiring. I was wondering if there is anyway to check if an injector is bad or not.

I have a stock 350 TPI w/ 3" exhaust system. 24# ford racing injectors w/ a fuel pressure regulator. these are BRAND NEW injectors also if that matters.

 

try swapping the injector with another one(like u did with the connector)

 

yea. thats what my next decision was gonna be ... see if the missfire moved cylinders as i moved the fuel injector. i thought of that AFTER it was back together. haha =) Thanks for your help, im gonna try that today.

 

You don't need to physically swap the injectors, you accomplished that when you swapped the connectors.

All the injectors on one side are driven by the same ECM driver, which means that they're connected in parallel to the Positive, and ground like rungs on a ladder.

There are two things you can do:
1.) Put in a fresh spark plug. Out of the cylinder ithe spark isn't under pressure, so there's no garrantee that it will fire in the cylinder. If you're using expensive plugs, just buy a cheap one until the problem is solved.
2.) Check you compression, a cylinder needs a minimum of 80psi for combustion.

Post what you find.

 

I have swapped out the spark plugs. Twice accualy. And thats not the problem. As for combustion and pressure wise .. the motor is a BRAND NEW jasper reman with only 3 thousand miles on the motor. Which leave me to think the injector is clogged for some reason... but i cant see how that would come about being BRAND NEW.. like few days old injectors. And how would the antifreeze going through the injector messes up the internals of the injector. Thanks for you help.

-Steve-

 

Anti freeze is a bearings killer. It only takes a few seconds/minutes of running an engine w/antifreeze in the oil to kill a set of bearings. Since it was in the gas, if could have affected the rings or cylinder walls. Run a compression test on the missing cylinder (both wet and dry) and let's see what it shows (hopefully nothing). Wouldn't hurt to check all 8 cylinders (that's what I would do if I were you).

I'd also be looking for who ever did this to my car.....

 

trust me i found him .. and once that sugar starts working he'll know wuts up

as for the running the car .. it was a full gallon of antifreeze so it just started .. chur chur chur stopped. never started after that .. so i dout i messed the internals of a brand new remanufactured engine, but ill see if i can get a compression tester from somewhere.

 

Lewt us know the compression test resutls. You can "rent one" for free at Autozone, or buy one for liek $30 or so

 

What would be some reasons for low compression while we wait for the test readings?

 

Rings, cracked block, pistons, and or heads, or damaged valves. Don't assume that any of these aren't possible just because the engine's was recently rebuilt, or the parts are new. That's why we suggested a compression test, at least it'll cancel those possibilities from the equation.

 

ran the compression test real quick .. on that cylinder that is missfiring i have 160 psi on a dry test.

 

Maybe a whisker low, but I don't think it's low enough to be a problem. So I'll beat you to the next question: Now what?

BTFOM!

Pondering.....

 

compaired it to a firing cylinder.. cylinder #1... #1 is saying 148 PSI. Cylinder 2 (Missing Cylinder) has 160 PSI

 

Which is within the 10% variance rule of thumb. Have or can tyou check #3 and #4? Make sure the throttle body blade is held open while the motor is cranked over. Sometimes adjacent cylinders can help diagnosing.

 

i can probably do 3 and 4 .. deff CANT do 5 and 7 cuz id have to take the headers off to get at the plugs. stupid things are a PITA Give you the readings 2night

 

I believed the injector to be faulty even though he was able to get from fuel from it, to be sure I asked for a compression test.
Either test the injector on the engine, or simply replace it.
If he's up to it, raise the fuel rails, and put a plastic container under the injectors (I sure you can find one slightly larger, and shallow at Wally World to contain the spray from all the injectors for a few seconds. Be sure to disable the coil(not the Dizzy by grounding the spark wire, wouldn't a stray spark lighting up the fuel) before you crank it. The Dizzy must signal the ECM, or It'll disable the injectors.

Look at the flow, and spray patterns.

 

OK, will check in late or tomorrow morning.

Did you ever move the injectors around to be sure one of them didn't die? Pain to do, I know (especially with my SuperRam).

Before you do that, take an ohm meter and read the resistance across the two poles on each injector. Should be 12-16ohms resistance.

Also, it's a long shot, but I wonder if that cylinder filled with AF and somehow one of it's pushrods got bent. If a valve isn't opening that can prevent it from firing. At least it;'s on the easier side to pull a valve cover to check that.

Vac leaks all checked out (especialy around that cylinder)?

I'll pass on any other ideas....

 

well vern u sure have an ugly way of looking at things. This is bent that is broke Its late so i cant really see much in my small garage. But i managed to blindly get one reading. cylinder 3 is at 165 psi. I checked for any vacumm leaks and found nothing. I called up summit and said they told me since its within 90 days its under warrenty. Im just gonna replace the 4 on the passenger side and see how it turns out. Im like 85% sure its the injector tho. How would i test the injector while its still on the car rgarcia63?

 

Just thought I would add a bit of info for you. Injectors are very susceptible to moisture when cleaning them. The Pro's I've talked to in the past have told me that they have seen injectors rust overnight when they are left in moisture. They never use a water based solvent to clean them for this reason. They use a petroleum based solvent for cleaning. You could have very likely have had an injector go bad due to antifreeze. I would do like some of the other posts said, switch the injector to another cylinder and see if the missing cylinder also moves!!! Also a quick way to test if a cylinder is firing or not without removing a spark plug is to do the "old timing light trick"!!! Start your engine and use your Inductive timing light as a test unit. When the motor is running just move the inductive pickup from 1 wire to the next. If the cylinder is firing the timing light will flash, if it doesn't that cylinder isn't firing. This is a great way to see if your plugs are firing when they are under pressure. A plug will alot of times fire when out of the cylinder, but when in the motor under pressure will fail. This takes all the guess work out of it, it is either firing the test light and working or not. It also lets you know if a plug is intermitent or not, the light should flash consistently and not be erratic if it is you should replace the plug. Best of all you can test all 8 spark plugs in less than a minute and know for sure the condition of your spark. Once you have eliminated the spark issue you can concentrate in another direction and know for sure that it was or wasn't spark related. Very basic tools can give very positive results when used properly. Hope this helps you to get your car back on road. Best Regards!!!! cabsales1

 

One more quick thought it takes 3 things for your cylinder your checking to not miss. 1. Good compression and you have already tested that and it is good. 2. Good spark and if you use a timing light as I suggested in the last post you will know for sure without a doubt if you have good spark or not. 3. Would be good even fuel supply from the injector. Looking at your other posts I'm suspecting it to be a bad injector. If you want a good fast and easy way to check the wiring to the injector. Purchase a Noid light. You can purchase these for $20.00 at Advanced Auto. It is basiclly a small light bulb, you unplug the wires to the injector and plug the Noid light in and see if it flashes when the engine is running. Move the light to a known good cylinder start the car and observe it flashing when the car is running. Turn the car off and move it to the bad cylinder, start the car and it should flash the same as it did on a known good cylinder. If it doesn't you might look at the injector wires on that injector plugin before removing the injector again to replace it. "If it flashes good and you have compresion, and spark you will probably be removing the suspected injector again". Best Regards. cabsales1

 

Thanks for the timing light test. Ill try that, i dont think its spark tho because everything on the motor is new but the ignition coil. Distrib is new, cap n rotor are new, wires are new, plugs are new. But ill try it anyway just to be sure. Im getting new plugs under warrenty so im just going to swap them and see wut happens.

 

Did you read my last post?

 

Yup read your comment, im just going to replace it and see what happens.

 

Well.. got the injectors in, threw em in, and its still not firing for some reason. So i have spark (using the method w/ the timing light), and a new injector.


Not sure whats going on =( HELP! PLEASE!

 

BUMP HELP

 

OK, you need 3 things for combustion. Spark, Air/fuel, and Compression.

You know you have compression, so that should take care of part #3.

Let's back up and verify part #1 - Spark. Pull the plug you've been using in the bad cylinder and put another one in temporarily. Take the one you pulled out, attach the plug wire to it, lay it up on the shock tower, and start her up. Look for a good spark to be firing on that plug while it's out of the cylinder.

For item #2 - Air/Fuel - first thing I'd do is pull the valve cover on that side. Then turn the motor over by hand and watch that BOTH valves are opening and closing. There's a remote chance the exhaust valve isn't working so that cylinder is never getting a fresh charge of air and fuel. Pain in the but to do, I know, but I don't see any other choice.

If I remember right you've already swapped injectors around as well as injector harness connectors and the problem stayed in the same cylinder, so the fuel part is workingm it's just a matter of whether it's getting into the cylinders (and out).

Hope this helps.

 

i did check spark by your method and i do have spark. I swapped injectors with a BRAND NEW one .. and its still faulty. So next thing i guess to do it take the valve cover off and ill report back to you guys.


PM your AIM sn also if you could.


Thanks