Just got the driver's side Hooker LT header in and of course I knew going in there would be a problem with #7 plug. It's so dang close to working I wonder why they just don't re-design that one primary! Anyway, after doing a search that only showed a couple results back in '01 about this shorty plug, I'm wondering if anyone has used one yet? Going to the part's place tomorrow to see if they have any or could order me up a box.

The intall is going way more easy than I thought it would. So far the driver's side just slipped right in from the bottom no problem and it's not hitting anything. AFR 195 straight plug heads and ES's poly motor mounts that are about 8 months old. Didn't have to jack the engine up, just took apart the steering shaft, removed sparkplugs and removed the oil filter. Took longer to get the old shorties out than putting this one in.

 

Only 2hr 35min to go till the parts store opens Anyway, finished up except for the 1 spark plug and making the rest of the exhaust. Passenger header was a royal pain in the butt due to the starter. Ended up denting in one tube a little to clear the end of the starter. Also I chopped off about an inch of the flange to make it easy to slip the header in an out (must have been about 5 times). Finally everything dropped into place and I was happy

Out with the old Edelbrock shorties


In with the new Hooker long tubes!




Kinda hard to see but the circled area is where the starter was hitting the tube just enough to not be able to line up the holes. I did try and reclock the starter but the solenoid hit the block

 

I guess no one has Got some on order anyway.

 

The shorter reach 276S are what I've been using since 2001. Actually, used them in a different engine in the mid-90's. No particular issues, other than the terminals coming loose (fixed that by removing them, pinching the outer end slightly in the vice, and screwing them back on). I imagine the 416S would act/last similarly.

 

I had the same problem with my headers and afr heads. I also used the 416S. Well, I tried to use the 416S. Those plugs are the worst plugs I've ever used. I got them at O'reilly's and the guy told me that they weren't any good. But since this was a teenager that was a ***** I paid no attention. After I couldn't get the thing to run right for several weeks a mechanic for over 30 years told me it had to be the plugs. I said they're brand new! He told me again. It's the plugs. I then told him my dilemma with the #7 primary tube. He recommended the autolites. I ended up putting the autolite and the 614S side by side and they were the exact same length. I will look at the part number for you in a little while. The Accells were very expensive and the autolites were a dollar something. So this is the plug situation now for the rest.

I ended up still burning the plug boots after a couple weeks of driving. I spent lots of money on spark plug wires so I ended up ordering the MSD plug boots that were for extreme high temperatures. This worked for a little while but still would start to arc through these boots onto the #7 tube. I was about to pull my hair out so I decided to relocate the #7 tube out and over a little. I ordered a J-bend from summit and attempted this myself but was very difficult. I ended up getting a guy at Hot Rod solutions to do this for me. It now looks great and works great with no problems whatsoever.

 

My message was almost too long in the above post but here is the guy to contact. He also was the guy in the pump gas drags that Hot Rod put on in Memphis. Feel free to ask me any questions since I've been through this.

Kevin Thompson
http://hotrodsolutions.net/

 

I was planning on doing this if the shorty plug didn't work out. Not going to be a great feeling cutting into a 400 dollar set of headers but you gotta do what you gotta do hehe. Thanks for the info guys, let you know how it turns out

 

Well, got the plugs today and they still can't squeeze in to fit #7 Soooooo the header is coming out tomorrow for a little modifying. Lucky me it's on the easy side.

 

Muahaha running on all 8 cylinders now with a regular plug in #7. Took the header back out and made a couple dimples to clear the plug going in and the spark plug boot. The boot will probably still get hot hot till I take out the header again and rework it but I needed to get this thing running for the weekend. Taking it to the track Saturday and hope to see a little gain but not holding my breath.

 

So what was the Autolite number that was the same length and heat range as the 416S?

 

I also took the header off and dimpled it but it was only a quick fix. The boot kept burning so I decided to modify it.

The plug # is 3923.

 

Thanks for that info. You would not believe how long I've been trying to find that equivalent plug....

 

The only way to fix this is to cut and reweld the #7 header tube, or buy angle plug heads.

 

Cutting and rewelding the header right now is the only other solution. I'm not going to plunk down another 1200 bucks on heads just because of these headers lol.

 

Strange, I didn't have to modify anything when I put my 2210's on. #7 is tight, but even with standard plugs I have about a 1/8" between the boot and the header. I also have a regular starter. I wonder what the difference is.

 

you have trickflow heads right?


I don't see why afr used the gasket seat plugs, seem to be a better range of plugs in the tapper seat style (yes I know it has to have the long reach but, taper seat plugs offer a very good range of them)

 

My TrickFlows also use a gasket seat plug. Are AFR's angle plug? My TrickFlows are angle plug and maybe thats why.

 

well my original point was that you had a trickflow head compared to his afr. and yes angled will clear with out a problem

the plugs were something I felt should be a tapered seat like the 3.4 and 3.1 and 2.4 eng's since there is a better range of plugs select from