I've been surfing this site looking at how people are running their fuel lines for the LT1 intake swap.well all of the different methods are spread out all over the place so i thought i would start something that would put all of the different part #'s and picture in one place.
so please post up if you have information on other parts and number

purechoice motorsports LT1 fuel line kit

www.performanceplumbing.com

 

Fuel rail fittings

 

"The inlet has a -6 male to -6 male union and the outlet has a -5 to -6 reducer so that both lines will hook up to -6AN lines and fittings"

taken from this post

 

GM Fuel Line Adapter, -6 AN Hose End to Fem 14mm x 1.5 (Earls 9894DBH)
GM Fuel Line Adapter, -6 AN Hose End to Fem 16mm x 1.5 (Earls 9894DBJ)

www.holley.com

 

fittings on hard fuel lines

 

again if someone could chime in on the part #'s i beleive pix came from a post by TGO member S10Wildside

 

opps

 

a related items

hose and tubing seperator

Line clamps

 

pix of the purechoice motorsports LT1 fuel line fittings installed.

 

i thought about streightening out the hard lines that are on the driver side frame rail and using a 180 degree fitting or cutting the hard lines before they reach the engine bay and run it the rest of the way with braided line.

 

TPIS LT1 AFPR
100-023 Regulator Hat Kit, all LT1........$49.95

www.tpis.com

 

www.lt1intake.com fuel lines

 

Post # 3 uses nuts and sleeves with flared tubing.
Post # 7 uses brazed on fittings available at hydraulic shops.

LT1 intake.com kits use similar fuel rail connectors to Purechoice. But pure choice sells them seperately. (you get to pay for the fancy packaging)

 

i bought my fuel lines from thirdgen.org member z 2 8 r i c e r. Fast shipping. $125 stainless steel lines but no -an fittings. Just connected to tpi fuel lines and quick disconnect fittings to lt1 fuel rails. This is what it says in his sig:

LT1 Swap fuel lines pre made, stainless braided with stock O ring fitting for fuel rail and LT1 push lock connector, crimp fit. $125 New

his profile: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/mem...fo&userid=5953


note: i dont know if he makes them anymore though, have to contact him.

 

Someone PLEASE put this in a FAQ or something. I was looking for this information a few weeks ago and couldnt find it.

 

Summit Part Numbers:
EAR-581805ERL -5AN Tube Nuts (pack of 2)
EAR-581905ERL -5AN Tube Sleeves (pack of 2)
EAR-581806ERL -6AN Tube Nuts (pack of 2)
EAR-581906ERL -6AN Tube Sleeves (pack of 2)
EAR-991907ERL -5 to -6 union reducer
SUM-220632 -6 to -6 union
SUM-900311 37 degree flare tool (not standard 45 degree)

You'll probably have leaks if using a 45 degree flare tool (yes, this is probably the one you have in your toolbox).

If the steel lines on your LT1 rails are bent (like many are), you may not be able to get the tube sleeve far enough down the line to make the 37 degree flare.

In my opinion, I think this is the best way to go. I've used the brazed fittings (pic in post 7 is of my LT1 intake setup), but I still like the tube nuts and sleeves the best. The Pure Choice fittings are also nice, but cost more than the tube nuts and sleeves and have o-rings that will eventually wear out. I have a couple sets of the Pure Choice fittings and wouldn't hesitate to use them.

 

Are the lines coming off the rail steel because I thought it was more appropriate to use steel tube nuts on steel line. I thought maybe the earls sleeve nuts are aluminum. I thought you had to match the materials to prevent wear through and galling. I could be wrong but I bought steel tube nuts when i flared any steel lines 37 degrees and yes I have both flare tools.

 

where's agood place to get the 37 degree flare tool?

 

I got mine from summitracing. They sell a 45 and a 37 degree and are affordable kits.

 

Honestly, I don't know. Once you tighten the fitting(s), the sleeve is not going to rub on the steel to have the opportunity to wear. I have not yet seen a -5 steel tube nut or sleeve. I noticed that this is not a very common size. It's probably available somewhere though.

 

37 degree for -AN fittings from Summit.com

 

For frequent assembly a steel sleeve would be more appropriate I think. The main thing is the oem ratings for the fitting are for all the same material. No mixing of steel and AL.
But with only 100 psi max operating on the fuel system. The Al. stuff will still have at least a 5-1 safety margin.
The only other potential problem is corrosion due to the two different materials. It will only occur if they get wet all the time.
IF they are under the car. Smear a little silcone on the sleeve/nut and don't worry about it.

Aeroquip makes -5 sleeves etc in steel. Let me know if you can't get them.

 

To flare the lines you have to put the sleeves and nuts on the line first, correct? Can you put the flare tool on the tube if the sleeves and nuts are already on? Seems like you can't slide them down far enough because of the hump in the lines where the quick disconnect clips.

 

If you are using the flare tube and nut method, you have to cut the end of the tube off where the quick-fit would normally go. Thats why it was mentioned above that it may be difficult to get the nut and tube on the line, then single-flare (37*). If you disassemble the rail, I think you can probably do it.

To add some info, lingenfelter offers a few kits to adapt things. For retrofitting a car without the factory saginaw fittings (pre-fuel injection, or carb'ed) they offer Saginaw stub hard lines, so you can flare the other end with the usual 45 degree flare, or AN, or whatever. I've used them to convert a non-efi vehicle to a factory like system, using regular 45 degree flare lengths in between the saginaw(s). (I post this since most people do not have 37* flare tools and use AN extensively). This way you can use cheap 45* flare tubing from your local auto store.

they also offer fuel filter and saginaw to AN adapters.

Fuel Injection Fittings Jumper line kit: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering

 

Sooo would it be hack to temporarily use fuel injection hose and clamps? Problem is my car is at my friend's house two hours away and I have some AN fittings there already and stainless braided hose but I don't know exactly what I need for fittings yet and don't want to waste a bunch of money on parts I don't need or worse yet not get parts I'll need. I want to get it running this weekend... with some luck.

 

i used hose clamps on my aeroquip -6 an socket-less hose to hold it onto the fuel pump pickup that i cut so it could be removed through the hole that i cut in the back for easy fuel pump replacement (in case the walbro 255 gives out) and i tested it to over 70 psi and lots of vibration and so far no issues with leaks. just use the clamps that are smooth on the parts that touch the hose so they don't have that cheese grader effect on the hose.

by the way, my lt1 intake is supplied by -6an inlet and -6an outlet using the socket less hose from front to the back on both the feed and return lines. i am using the compact efi regulator from aeromotive, and earls 6-an fittings in the fuel rails. there is an aeromotive 10 micron -10an inlet/outlet fuel filter installed back by the fuel tank.

the only drawback of this setup is it looses line pressure shortly after the car is shut off (might be the valve that mounts above the fuel pump), but the car fires right up and

thanks



not the cheapest route, but the easiest for the carb to efi swap.

 

The only problem with that is you risk a dangerous gasoline leak. Yes, it might hold for a little while, but I would never risk it. I've seen too many cars that were caught on fire, and you can't even tell what it was afterwards. Just a lump of black and metal crud.

So if you were to try this method, I would at the very least, push the hose up over the push connector barb, and double clamp. You might be able to try this to start the thing, but I wouldn't put more than a short time on that(the whole time keeping an eye on it, at that), let alone assume its fine for a 2 hr ride.

the couple extra bucks of connectors is not worth everything up in flames.

I would use the pure choice motorsports kit, if you are simply putting an LT1 in an F-body with previous TBI/TPI. the lines will connect right up.

 

-6an's inside diameter is the same size as the outside diameter of the fuel feed line, so it is a tight fit before the clamps. if it leaks (at least for me) my car will die and that is that. there is no exhaust or hot stuff to catch on fire, but if that connection is in the engine bay, then that could be a potential hazard.

i welded a piece of fuel feed line onto the smaller return line so the -6an would have a good tight connection for the clamp.

 

My car was originally LG4 and I just realized there is rubber hose there from the factory, about a 2' length by the sending unit. I've been using a Walbro TPI pump regulated to 6psi for over a year like this, I hope I at least thought to change the rubber hose to fuel injection grade stuff. I will upgrade to all steel/braided lines ASAP.

 

Does Summit have any kind of LT1 quick connect fittings? I can't seem to find any.

 

I don't know for sure. I beleive earls or someone does make the fittings pure choice uses, so if you can find that number, I'm sure summit would list it.

what are you doing for regulator and filter?

 

Lt1 quick connect fittings are at most auto stores

 

I'll swing by Autozone during my lunch break and see what they have for fittings. For a regulator, I have an adjustable one that came with my fuel rails. Not sure who makes it. I have a stock one too just in case. Not sure on the filter yet, will probably just get a stock inline one.