spdc 360 block
holley Vortec-SR
30lb svo injectors
msd 6al
165 ecm
custom prom
painless wiring
every sensor is new.. etc

Alright, I went to start the new engine today and came out disapointed. My first problem was the fuel pump not getting power. I found out the relay wasn't either. So i spliced the pink/blk ignition wire into the orange fuel pump relay power wire. Everything seemed to be alright, fuel pump primed for about 3 seconds and i was able to set my fuel pressure.

When I went to start it, it just kept turning over without spark. Only difference was the strong smell of gasoline. Any ideas?

I do know the coil is grounded good and the battery is at 12V. The distributer was indexed properly and all connections are tight. Please help....

 

start searching all the grounds. The factory harness has so many, and if you miss just one...start w/ the obvious, fuses, etc...check power to the coil(+12v key on) on the pink/black wire.

 

Alright, gonna get on it. I did forget to mention that after i spliced in the wire mentioned above, On 12v key on, the fuel pump will re-prime when i turn my lights on. WTF lol

BTW, what power wire is pink/blk on the coil?

 

Also, if it helps, all accesories and dash panel and interior works. Coil is getting power.

 

still can't figure it out, checked all connections ans grounds, nothing is bad! Chip is even in the right way (fan comes on when on 12v ignition). Please help!

 

Ok, I have spark! Just turned the chip the other way and I got strong lightning-like spark. It now backfires and won't start still. I suspect a firing order problem. I know the firing order but does it matter which prong on the cap is #1? I see no markings on the msd billet distributer. This seems to be my last problem. Any suggestions?

 

In response to your question no, it does not matter what prong on the cap is #1. Although most small block enthusiasts put #1 where the rotor contact is pointing at #1 cylinder more or less. As far as your backfiring goes it sounds as though you may be 180 degrees out on your TDC. I am not trying to insult your intelligence, but to find "true" TDC take the spark plug out of #1 cylinder and put your finger over the spark plug hole, either turn the motor over by hand (which will be extremely hard) or have a buddy bump the motor over until you feel a strong pressure come out of the spark plug hole. The pressure will try to push your finger out. Once you have that you should be at TDC #1, then check your timing mark on the harmonic balancer and see where the rotor is pointing, that will be #1.

 

Thanks for the inout nedoss. I've done that exact same procedure when indexing it last time. The only differnece was my TDC mark wasn't lining up with the mark on the harmonic balancer. It was 2.5 inches off. So naturally, i moved the balancer to zero. Could this be my problem?

I used the finger over the #1 plug method, a baloon, and a whistle which all gave me the same results. The indexing I did was by hand (not by starter) so i know it was accurate.

*EDIT*

Also, remember that i didnt assemble the bottom of the block, scoogin dickey did. I wonder if they screwed up the balancer somehow.

 

balancers are know to slip, thats why the fluidampers/rattlers/etc are nice. - If you're sure you're at TDC w/ proper firing order, start advancing your timing. They'll backfire with lazy advance...

 

Alright, I have spark still but It doesn't want to run.

Please help...!!!

I re-indexed distributrer and checked firing order, etc, NOTHING! I'm stumped. Could the actual computer be at fault? It is from a J/Y.

 

If you smelled raw fuel when you were trying to start before, your plugs may be soaked and fuel fouled. Screw in new ones. Don't bother trying to dry out the old plugs unless you can wait for several days. The insulators are saturated. You may want to crank the engine a few revs with the plugs removed to clear any excess fuel, then install the spares.

Pull the EST bypass connector in case the ESC is going all "Brokeback Mountain" on you.

 

 

Alright, i'll do something about the plugs. Just thought this may be helpfull...

While trying to crank it over outside, the intake got hot while the headers stayed cold.... It is not the computer and I know because I just grabbed another one from autozone. Figured I'll return it if i didn't need it.

 

Good news guys, IT RUNS!!! I ripped out the distributer and slapped a whistle onto #1. I used my judgement as where TDC was and not the harmonic balancer. Car starts as soon as the key turns, even faster than the old engine. Thanks for the help and support.

I now have run into another minor hurdle. My fan doesn't want to come on on its own. It works when i jumper pins A to B on the aldl but just wont come on by itself. Any ideas? I'm going to start a new thread for this.

The Fan Problem Thread

 

what kind of pointer or indicator do you use to set intial base timing? the one my engine has a line on the dampner and line on the timimng cover, it is a rebuilt vortec roller block and i was just going to throw some timing tape on the dampner and hope for the best when i drop the dizzy in

 

Relying on those timing marks gave me this trouble stealthrocz.

 

so what do you suggest would be the best way to go

 

- a new/aftermarket damper...

 

how about if I just throw on some timing tape, can it still be set 6 degrees BTDC accuratley enough