Hatch adjustment (foward and back not up and down.)
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Hatch adjustment (foward and back not up and down.)
My hatch seems like it is sitting about 1/2 inch back too far, I loosened all the bolts towards the top of the hatch and nothing happened... Has anyone adjusted this that can give some advice??
Thanks
Dennis
Thanks
Dennis
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 4
From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
From what I've read on here,and looking at my '83,if the rear panel is out of alignment with the tail panel or fenders then you can adjust it.You have to remove the trim panel attached to the underside of the hatch,then there's an adhesive/sealant between the glass and the metal panel.Separate the two and clean this,may have to do a search to see what to use to replace this - may just be black RTV,then align the hatch panel - mark the bolt holes,apply the sealant then bolt it back together.
As far as I can tell there's not much adjustment,if any,on the actual hinge area where the hatch is attached.On this I'm unsure.hopefully someone that's done this will give more direction.
I'm still learning so I hope this helps.
As far as I can tell there's not much adjustment,if any,on the actual hinge area where the hatch is attached.On this I'm unsure.hopefully someone that's done this will give more direction.
I'm still learning so I hope this helps.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,075
Likes: 1
Car: 04 Silverado
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by coolram62
From what I've read on here,and looking at my '83,if the rear panel is out of alignment with the tail panel or fenders then you can adjust it.You have to remove the trim panel attached to the underside of the hatch,then there's an adhesive/sealant between the glass and the metal panel.Separate the two and clean this,may have to do a search to see what to use to replace this - may just be black RTV,then align the hatch panel - mark the bolt holes,apply the sealant then bolt it back together.
As far as I can tell there's not much adjustment,if any,on the actual hinge area where the hatch is attached.On this I'm unsure.hopefully someone that's done this will give more direction.
I'm still learning so I hope this helps.
From what I've read on here,and looking at my '83,if the rear panel is out of alignment with the tail panel or fenders then you can adjust it.You have to remove the trim panel attached to the underside of the hatch,then there's an adhesive/sealant between the glass and the metal panel.Separate the two and clean this,may have to do a search to see what to use to replace this - may just be black RTV,then align the hatch panel - mark the bolt holes,apply the sealant then bolt it back together.
As far as I can tell there's not much adjustment,if any,on the actual hinge area where the hatch is attached.On this I'm unsure.hopefully someone that's done this will give more direction.
I'm still learning so I hope this helps.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 405
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
Likes: 6
From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
The problem with the top end of the hatch is that GM allowed only the OUTER holes (the ones on the outboard end of each hinge) for adjustment of the glass. If one were to remove the hatch and grind the inner holes to a similar shape of the outer ones, then the whole hatch can be slid towards the front, without removing any sealants or grinding on the glass panel itself.
If I can find time and some decent batteries, I can get a pic of this later...
If I can find time and some decent batteries, I can get a pic of this later...
Supreme Member
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,075
Likes: 1
Car: 04 Silverado
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by 84 1LE
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member




Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 201
From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
so you are saying that the part that attaches to the glass (the part with the spoiler) needs adjustment? Not the top part where the whole hatch attaches to the body? What about glass breakage???
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
You are referring to where the hatch bolts to the body right? If so, pics please!!!!!!!!!
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
You are referring to where the hatch bolts to the body right? If so, pics please!!!!!!!!!
New there was a tech article on this, just found the link, might help:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...tchalign.shtml
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...tchalign.shtml
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 405
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Originally posted by 1989karr
so you are saying that the part that attaches to the glass (the part with the spoiler) needs adjustment? Not the top part where the whole hatch attaches to the body? What about glass breakage???
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
You are referring to where the hatch bolts to the body right? If so, pics please!!!!!!!!!
so you are saying that the part that attaches to the glass (the part with the spoiler) needs adjustment? Not the top part where the whole hatch attaches to the body? What about glass breakage???
You should'nt have to remove/seperate the decklid.You will have to disconnect your struts first(or they will just push back on the decklid)from the opposite end so they dont stick out past the seal.Loosen the nuts that hold the decklid to the glass.Close the hatch push the decklid in place.Slowly lift the hatch just enough to reach under & tighten the nuts enough to hold the decklid in place.Re-check your adjustment.If correct re-connect the struts & you should be done.
You are referring to where the hatch bolts to the body right? If so, pics please!!!!!!!!!
Supreme Member




Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 201
From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
Originally posted by 84 1LE
Yes,The decklid attaches to the glass with studs/nuts.A sealant is used to keep the water,etc out.If you remove the plastic trim piece on the inside of the decklid you will see about 8 or so 10mm nuts.If you loosen those nuts you can move the decklid around some.Depending on how much your decklid is off.This may be all you need to do.I was able to align mine this way,but my glass hatch was not in need of adjustment.So i didnt need to mess with the glass hinges.If you can see your glass hatch is misaligned.Then you may have to adjust both if needed.As for glass breaking.You want to be carefull you dont bend or twist the hatch/decklid.Which can get very heavy once you disconnect the struts.I used a box to support the hatch once the stuts were disconnected.Also i remember there was a small screw at the end of the metal frame that goes around the edge of the glass.The screw goes into the decklid & it had to be removed to allow movement.
Yes,The decklid attaches to the glass with studs/nuts.A sealant is used to keep the water,etc out.If you remove the plastic trim piece on the inside of the decklid you will see about 8 or so 10mm nuts.If you loosen those nuts you can move the decklid around some.Depending on how much your decklid is off.This may be all you need to do.I was able to align mine this way,but my glass hatch was not in need of adjustment.So i didnt need to mess with the glass hinges.If you can see your glass hatch is misaligned.Then you may have to adjust both if needed.As for glass breaking.You want to be carefull you dont bend or twist the hatch/decklid.Which can get very heavy once you disconnect the struts.I used a box to support the hatch once the stuts were disconnected.Also i remember there was a small screw at the end of the metal frame that goes around the edge of the glass.The screw goes into the decklid & it had to be removed to allow movement.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 405
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Mine sealnt was fine afterwards.If you dont seperate the decklid from the glass you should be O.K.However i would check afterwards by pouring some water around the seal to check for leaks.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 2
From: Leicester,Massachusetts
Car: 1983 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
Engine: Forged 355 with a GT45 turbo
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: built 4th gen rear with 3.27s
well i stumbled onto this topic yesterday and read the posts. i then realized it was time for me to fix my rear hatch also..i did it all by myself with the help of a long 4 by 4 about 2-3feet long to hold the hatch up while i was taking it apart.i even stripped all the sealant of,cleaned the rear window and applied new sealant then re installed everything i took apart.now the car looks so much better with the rear hatch lining up like it should.thanks for the posts guys otherwise it would still be where it originally was lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




