Well, we got the heads on yesterday (Sunday)!

I took the heads Saturday, and scraped off all the gasket stuff. I also used a wire brush on a wheel to clean out the combustion chambers of carbon. I used brake cleaner to clean the gasket sealing surfaces.

Sunday, I brought the heads back to my friends' house. We finished scraping the other half of the deck for the head. Then we drained the oil, and pulled the pan off. We scraped off the pan surfaces (which had RTV on the rails, no gasket!), and spun the engine to an angle. Then, we shot compressed air into the water jackets around the piston bores- a ton of stuff flew out! What a show!

Next, we tackled the head bolts. I think I see now how that 82T/A guy stripped his block. We cleaned the bolts up as best we could with a wire brush, and tried threading a few in. There was one hole in the block that was really clean, so we used that one as our "test" hole. We found 6 bolts that would not thread in! On closer inspection, the threads were very damaged. If we had tried to force them in, I bet they would've stripped the heads.

Luckily, I still had the head bolts from when I tore apart TheWraith's blown 2.8. We managed to make a complete set of "good" head bolts. Next, we each took a "good" bolt, and threaded them in and out of each head-bolt-hole a few times to clean those up. (We didn't have any taps or dies as you can tell! I'll have to buy some for -my- rebuild.)

Finally, we were ready... we poured some oil into each cylinder, coating the wall, and covering the piston. Now that I look back on it, we should've put assembly lube on the piston walls- oh well. We cleaned the deck one more time with brake cleaner sprayed on a rag.

Next, we layed a head gaskets down, and put the head on top. We each took a bolt, put sealant on the the lower 1/2 of the threads. We used Permatex #2... the stuff comes in a skinny tube, and it's labeled "gasket maker" or something like that. Then we threaded the bolts in, and went through the torque sequence. We did 3 stages; first stage was 33, next was 50, and final was 70 ft/lbs.

For the next head, my friend's dad found a tube of Loctite PST for us- the stuff you're "supposed to" use! So we used that on the passenger's side head bolts. (I'll have to find a tube of that for my rebuild.) We torqued the head down, and then gave the intake manifold a final clean-up scraping.

It was then I noticed that the coolant passageways on the intake manifold are pretty corroded- I didn't think they'd seal to the intake gaskets well. So I figured we'd hold off until today, where I asked this question: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/006044.html

So today, we should be putting on the intake manifold, timing chain & chain cover, and water pump. Hopefully we also get to set valve lash and put the valve covers on.

HEY- anyone have an idea of how to prime lifters once they're in the lifter valley? These guys won't come up; I think the feet are mushroomed after years of use. As of now, I'm just planning to pour some oil on 'em.

I'll let ya know how it went tomorrow!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Glad it's coming along nicely Tom

 

Let us know about setting the lash. As easy as some people say, or as hard as other people say? I'm VERY interested in this point. Thanks!

-Reno

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'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus"
http://www.angelfire.com/il/Firebird28/index.html

 

Sounds good Tom....I wouldn't worry about priming the lifters, just pour some oil over them and they will be fine.

A lot of times the reason they won't come up is just due to a ridge of buildup on the bottom portion of the lifter. Nothing to worry about.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

R.I.P. #3
My favorite quote about D.E. "He can see air"

 

It all sounds like it going real smooth. I'm glad to hear it. The lifters should be fine.

When you put the intake on put a small bit of the permatex #2 in the corners where the end seal gaskets and the intake gaskets meet to prevent any leaks there. I personally throw the end gaskets away and use a 1/4 in or so bead of silly-cone across the whole thing. I let the silly-cone set up for about 15-20 min. before I put the intake on.

Keep up the great work tom!

 

HI Reno,
I'm crossing my fingers for Tom & adjusting valves too.
Before you put the valve covers & intake, use the starter in the engine to compression test.
I was at 175-200 all cylinders.
Even if you use fingers, you'll know cylinder pressure.
If the car ran fine before and you did not upset throttle valve at front of intake (settings of sensor) it should be just fine.
I was able to run mine with a bad mass air flow sensor, until I got back home & swapped it.
Keep doing well!

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Thanks for the support, guys! We got the intake manifold yesterday:

We put a few drips of oil onto the tops of the lifters. I hear they'll get their priming from when we spin the oil pump before installing the motor. We cleaned all the sealing surfaces with some more brake cleaner on a rag.

We used some Permatex Ultra Copper to seal the intake manifold's coolant passageways. We ran a circle around the coolant passageways on the heads, and down the front & rear sealing surfaces of the intake manifold. [edit: We put the stuff on the engine block side of the sealing surfaces, not the manifold itself.] Then we laid the intake gaskets in place. We pressed the intake gaskets against the head, which pushed the ultra copper out. We wiped up the sealant that smooshed into the coolant passageways.

Then, we ran another circle around the coolant passageway holes on top of the gaskets, just like we did with the heads. Then, we lowered the intake manifold straight down. We threaded all the bolts in hand-tight, and then went through the torque sequence. Our first pass was at 15 ft/lbs, then we ended at 25 ft/lbs.

Next, we put assembly lube on each end of the pushrods, and where the pushrods went into the guide plates. We loosened all the rocker arms, slid the pushrods into place, and swung each rocker arm over the top. We had to spin the cam a bit to get some of the pushrods to clear.

We thought we were going to finish last night. We started to put the new timing chain on and found out it was too short! The Pep Boys parts monkey gave us a chain that was one digit away from the part # we needed. He gave us a Clevite C372, we needed a C373. We got back a little too late to keep going, so we plan to finish Thursday.

What's left? We need to put on the timing chain, timing chain cover & gasket, water pump & gasket, oil pan & gasket & filter. Then we need to set valve lash and spin the oil pump with an electric drill. Then, the motor's ready for the swap.

We're leaving off the upper & lower plenum because we need the fuel rail, cold start injector, TB, thermostat, and thermostat housing from his '89 engine (which is still in the car). We also need his distributor, but it would hit the firewall, so that'll also go in when the engine's installed.

Valve lash shouldn't be that bad. Luckily we don't need any feeler gauges!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited February 27, 2001).]

 

Make the distributor hold down I did.
Go to hardware store, get longer bolt, chop off head, slip in distributor, insert bolt, drop on hold down, toss nut on top. Much easier than trying to put nut in there with distributor in place.
BEST LUCK FOR THE VALVES!

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA