Any ideas guys? I was thinking about looking into the setup some guy had on here with a Y pipe going to two air filters only I think I will keep my turn signals. BTW how big of a bitch is it to put the battery in the hatch? Come on guys I know I can just get alittle more out of my car somehow I need to beat this damn Integra. And he starts pulling from 3rd and up. First and second aren't really a problem. HELP

 

I take it you were looking at my dual 3 inch Black ABS Monstrosity?. Well the Batt relocaton is a no brainer. Though when I get the chance I am going to install a longer power wire. I have a 17-18Ft one now. Go 20 FT 4 Guage AMP POWER wire for the positive side and 3 ft of the same wire for the ground wire.

I got the wire from a local sterio shop and paid 2 bucks a foot. I bought a set of Stinger Power eyelets to connect the ends of the cable(I highly recomend that you crimp AND solder them on) to the various things. You have to get some really short 1/4- 1/2 inch long bolts that will screw into the battery posts.



I ran it throught the fender throught the door opening under that plastic kick panel, under the door sill plate, under the sail panel plastic, up to the side hatch plastic to the "Trunk". Hope that makes sense. I just used a nut and bolt I had in my garage to connect the amp (Crimp/Solder on) power eyelet to the positive bolt plate thing. TAKE OUT THE ORIGINAL BATT BOLT. Its early and I am still asleep so I hope that makes some sort of sense.

 

Monkey,
I would say go with your original plan of roller rockers, more HP, it might be enough to win, I don't think you will beat this integra on air filters... or you could start shaving weight, pull out the spare tire, jack... theres a few pounds a little faster already...lol.

 

I might do that but I think I need new valve springs seeing how I have almost 120k miles. But I would like to know how big a pain the valve springs will be BUT SEEING HOW NO ONE REPLIED TO MY POST ABOUT IT I dont know what to do. Take the heads somewhere and let them do it? Oh and about the jack and tire...yea been there done that. I took those out as soon as I bought the car.

 

hey monkie, want me to take a look in my auto-tech books from GM ASEP school........i know i have valve spring stuff in there

 

ok Monkie, you'll need a valve spring compressor.......its a tool that looks like a clamp that you compress the springs with so you can take off the guide seals.....................if you'd like........lemme know and i will scan the pages outta my book and email them to you..................

 

Teal that would be great if you could scan them for me. I know what a spring compressor is we had one in auto tech class. After you get them compressed to the right amount then what do you do? Is that it?

 

if you are trying to add about 15 more ponies, try to fabricate some sort of cold air setup
if your air box is the same as my z's, then pull the bottom piece out and get rid of the damn restrictors (i just used a hacksaw-and it doesn't even look much like i hacked the **** out of it.

or if that doesn't work, just use some flex hose or something, but make sure the filter isn't in the engine compartment-sucks in too much hot air

also, try simple tune-up and tb cleaning

 

I have some sort of a cold air setup. See sig.


also, try simple tune-up and tb cleaning

I was thinking about this. I havent had a tune up in a while....hmmmm. And how would cleaning the TB help any? And how do you do it?

 

my understanding is that while you have them compessed you remove the valve guide seals and then the valve should come off...............it wasnt really clear though on how to set the valve lash...................if anybody knows how to do this, please chime in.....

 

it sounds like you know how to compress the springs. So once thats done let the valve fall slightly, that will release the friction lock retainer.!!!GET SOMETHING TO HOLD THE VALVE IF THE HEAD IS STILL ON THE CAR!!!. remove that. Its will be 2 small half moon pieces. After that find a way to remove the spring AND hold on to the valve. If you want to replce that valve seals while you at it. Before you do anything tap the top of the valve spring retainer with a soft face hammer. this will vibrate the seal outta it's holder. Then do the previous things listed.

It CAN be done with the heads still on the car, but its a BIG PITA.

dou forgot the valve lash thing.
You want "0" Lash. when you get the rockers back on with the push rods in place wiggle the rod up and down untill its snug(And you can't hear it moving anymore). Then go another 1/4 turn to set the lifter preload.

 

thanx hunter

 

Pep Boys sells a valve spring compressor for use on a car with the heads still on the engine. It's not as large as the C-clamp style compressor, and it's actually cheaper! It looks like a little lever. You'll need to keep the valves from falling inside the combustion chamber, though. There's two ways- the pro way, and the DIY way. The pro way uses a shop air compressor to pressurize the combustion chamber with air (thru the spark plug hole), sealing the valves shut. Make sure to lock the flywheel in place so the compressed air doesn't start the engine spinning.

The DIY way involves a couple miles (well, actually, a roll) of thin nylon rope. You remove a spark plug, and spin the motor to get the piston down. Then, thread a bunch of nylon rope into the spark plug hole. Obviously, don't thread all the rope into the engine- leave some hanging out of the plug hole! That shouldn't be a problem 'cause I've made you buy a whole roll of the stuff. Anyway, thread the cord into the engine until it gets packed in there. Then, turn the engine (using the center bolt of the crankshaft pulley) until that piston raises up. (you could pull off the distributor cap, and use the rotor to determine where the stroke of the #2 cylinder is.)

[edit] Don't put the piston all the way up, of course... the nylon rope won't let you. The engine would probably feel as though it was stuck; and you wouldn't be able to turn it as easily with the crankshaft bolt anymore.

This mashes the nylon rope against the valves... and will keep them from falling into the engine. When you're done changing valvesprings, spin the motor backwards a bit to relieve the pressure against the nylon cord, and pull it all out of the spark plug hole. Then, move on to the next cylinder. It's a pain in the *** way, but if you don't have a compressor, the job is still do-able.

 

Not to argue with you tomP I am agreeing with you. I have had good luck using a high (125) plus PSI compressor to hold the valves up while replacing springs before. Just have to make sure your compressons good and you do not have alot of leakage(And you do not hit the tip of the stem very much). I have heard of people using those Tire inflator pumps for this purpose too. No experiance with those. I have a 5 HP Camble that I use.

 

KED85 did some posts on setting up the valve train when your ready. What size wheels do you have? 14" rims should keep your rpm's a little higher, and let your cam work better. Also helps to have small sidewall tires.

I was thinking of this for better aerodynamics:

get that bristle stuff some trucks use to keep rocks from flying off their wheels & onto your cars. put that around the sides of the vehicle starting on the ends of the air dam. leave the rear plain. beter airflow around the vehicle & it wont crack or break when you hop a curb.

 

hey costill91Z

ive been waitin to hear from someone who haxsawed the base of the air box...

i have a dual air filter intake in the front of the radiator (stock)

in 89 the v6 had twin intake in the front and in 92 they went for a single side ....i donno what made them do tht

but ive removed the air box coule of times thinkin of hacksaing it ...but i was too scared to do it....

it looks like i can drill a big hole there ... which one is better

do u think i should hacksaw it and leave the bottom open
does it make a difference...

 

i dont know how your setup is, but mine uses the 2 air filters (see the sig.), first i pulled off the air lid and cut out some of the reinforcement ribs-was gm assuming someone would find that a comfy seat? then there is 2 pieces of plastic on each side that look like some sort of baffle, they come out with a phillips. after that you remove the air box. im assuming that your car doesn't have the fog light pockets, so it might be a little diff. (actually getting the fog light piece might help w/airflow) on my airbox, i just cut out the bottom so there was an open square. after that, the only restriction is making sure cold outside air gets in. on mine i haven't messed with anything below that yet, but ill probably try to incorporate the fog light opening.
hope that helped

 

hey tis is how mine looks ... though mine is a v6 ... ibut same intake

i opended it and found under the 2 filters i have like a airbox and flap that u said .. remove flap using screwdriver... done and what didya do next... cut the bottom of the air box....

 

pull the whole air box out, and there should be a plastic bar about 1/4" thick running through the middle (more air restrictions!) you should cut through the whole thing right about that point-actually, i cut just below it, and then cut the bar out after.
also, while you have your air box out, you can see what else is in the way of air flow, mine has the fog lights like i mentioned earlier, , so there is a plastic gaurd that also blocks outside air, but i think im going to cut that too.
hope this helps

 

looks like we are mining our way...

ur right i ahve a plastic shroud ,... and i dont have a z28 grill w/ fiog loights i have teh standard grill

anyway thanx ....

have u cut all tat out ... does it pull better???

 

mine gave me, imo, a small, but noticeable improvement, but i didn't get to enjoy it for long, b/c the intake decided to leak.
since i have it all apart again, i might go ahead and remove the plastic cover that comes all the way back from the fog light cover.
(if you can find one of these, i recomend it, b/c it will let more air in, i put one on my 91 rs, but it had the tbi, so it was more for looks)
let me know how it runs

 

cool ive already started cuttin things out ....

teh weather is a killer now


tell me this belowthe air box there is a black support / plate ... no foglamps

.. i dont think i need to cut the whole thing as i believe it holds some part of the front groung effects together

do u think i should cut it???

and how the hell didya intake leak??????

 

underneath my airbox, there is a piece of black plastic that comes back from the fog light housing, it looks like it directs air into the radiator for cooling. i might cut a small hole in it. it shouldn't affect the structural characteristics, at least i hope not

my intake started leaking b/c the hack that did it last didn't check to see if the manifold needed planed (aluminum parts on cast iron requires special attention to sealing), plus they probably didn't remove all of the old gasket. i can't wait till it is running again, there are several people that wanna race

 

compressed air wont work if piston rings arent good.

 

WOW a post back from the dead!

Monkie (as I recall he was banned as "Munky" then changed the spelling and came back, then got banned again) and Camaro Hunter D are both banned, and nobody's heard from the Hunter since he sold some people so called V6 "headers" that didn't fit in the engine bay. People were posting asking if anyone heard from him as he wouldn't return their PM's about it.....

Eric

 

You have got to be $hitting me.......... I was having flashbacks for a second.

 

I think the lock is obvious.. check the dates on posts you search up before you reply to them, folks, unless you know and state that you're ressurecting the thread for technical purposes.