Hey man, can you email me? I'm looking into an 89 Non Turbo RX7 and I'd kinda like to know what to look out for and what I should expect this thing to run like. I know it'll probably be slower than my current car.....but my future plans for an fbody are beginning to take shape. This will just get me around till then.

 

hey man sorry it took so long

but I saw your post over at the rx7 forum and you have a few ppl out there helping you out


but for the most part check the oil make sure that that it looks nice and clean and make sure the owner changes it all the time.
these cars burn oil and due to the design of the motor if the oil is not clean it get get into the apex seals and start to cause them not to move like they should so oil is a must

also check the coolant if the car has been overheat then the water seals could be going and way to check it from what I understand is before the car is warmed up check the coolant for smell and make sure there is no gas smell to it then start the car up and if coolant tries to shoot out the top of the filler then that is a big no no big big no no.
might slosh a little but should not try to run out of the top of the filler.

start the car and let it warm up there should be no smoke from the exhaust (might be a little and warmup nothing to worry about though) and then after it is warmed up rev it a few times and see if you can watch smoke come from the back of the car if so oil seals might be going but atleast you can drive the car like that for a while... but still not good.

oil should read around 30 psi at idle and around 60 (give or take a few) at 2000 rpms.

take the car out for a spin and listen for any thunking noise from the rear if so you might need to change the rear diff mounts since the diff is bolted to the car itself due to the IRS setup.

listen for you normal things you would listen for with a car also you know like u-joints and all that other stuff...

just to let you know these cars do have a small miss sometimes at idle just normal for the way the car works.
but if it is missing all the time then that is not good. also when you take the car for a spin it should have any dead spots in it, xcept for around 3800 rpms I know that sometimes the motor will kinda fall flat for a moment then kick in like crazy
at 3800 rpms the secondaries kick in and the car can run really rich for a moment but that is normal... and you should be able toto feel them kick in though and well as hear them... almost like a 4bbl carb on a lawnmower


just remember if you get the car do all your basic car care stuff and it should last you a long time...
but do not baby it with the way you drive all the time.. that leads to carbon build up and that again is a big no no...
you want to take it out every now and then and just rev it out a few times to clean things up...

and good choice with the 89
stock 8000 rpms redline 160hp/146tq in a 2700-2800lb car

if you want to start to mod these things look into getting a header as your first mod. that brings the power of the car up a lot since you now do not have to go through the THREE cats on the car


and just a few sites you might like

www.mazdatrix.com
www.racingbeat.com
www.rx7.com
www.thepartstrader.com
www.ebaymotors.com (damn you find a lot of good stuff of this place for any car)

and spend a lot of time with the rx7 forum
they can help you out lots man

these cars though are not built for 1/4 mile at a time. they can do it easily but not built for it. these things shine when you take then in the turns..... they can be made to just hug the road like they are on rails


oh yeah one other thing

if you do take it for a spin and take a turn really quick and it feels like you a$$ end just moves like something gave .... dont worry something did... these cars have 4WS in them and if you pull enough g-force the rear wheels will adjust to help you keep control on the road


have fun with the car and good luck man, and it should be just as quick if not quicker stock vs stock then a v6 4th gen and lots of then can run with the TBI camaro 3rd gen
but they respond so easily to mods

and get the damn exhaust work done if you get the car

you spit flames man

 

That is one bad *** picture! I wish I could get mine to start up! Damn clutch! How much would one cost me? Oh and how would be a easy way to fix the fuel system flooding when you go to start it after you only move it like from spot to spot? I know you can take the fuse out and try to crank it and all but is there a way to FIX it? Like new fuel pump, filter, injectors. What?

 

My car will do that????

RX...how much boost do you think a stock NA motor could handle? I happen to have a TTA turbo

 

monkie as for the flooding that is something with the ECU
if you dont let the car warm up all the way then shut it back off atleast in the cold it leaves the computer in it some sort of enrichment mode and so when you start the car back up it shoots way too much fuel in there... that is what I have heard at least.
but if it is flooding all the time then you might want to take your injectors to www.rceng.com/index.htm they will balance, clean and blueprint your injectors.

and as for the clutch for a stocker you can get it for about 240 or so I think as long as you can do the work yourself. though you can pay like 550 to have someone else do all the work and the cost of the clutch and everything if you like

'clock your car can do that with a open exhaust. that guy is boosted so he has a little more help since he does run rich but even when I was N/A I removed my dashpot and put a header on it and was able to spit flames (had it explained to me as when I downshifted it was two explosions comming off the rear of my car) though I was using the stock catback system which is restrictive still.
if you can head it into true dual system where there is no y pipe I heard you can get some massive flames off the back of the car..

and as for boosting an N/A motor you can do so and you motor though comes with 9.7 compression so you car kinda limited there. I hav eheard 10 psi max though I wouldn't go for that much
if you really want to boost a N/A you could go with a supercharger setup that could give you about 6 psi and that would give you less trouble as far as trying to fit the setup into the car. or you can try to fit a turbo in there but there are a few problems with the exhaust manifold setup. so you can go for the whole TII swap though it is a PITA.
but still prolly 6-8 is about the most you want to run in your car.

 

See Billy I told you! $550 for a damn clutch! Thats crazy, I could get my v6 heads ported, polished, and everything else I wanna do to it. And no I dont know how to put a clutch in and if anyone wants to drive to SC and do it for free then break a leg. But in the mean time she will continue sitting.

 

Love the avatar RX. Monkie, just sell it to me. I'll put the clutch in.

 

hey gotta keep my rotary side even when I am here

ow if we could only find someone to help this boy put a clutch in that would help a lot and prolly cost him less then 250

dont want to see his rex just sitting there



and remember 'clock keep her running hard to keep that carbon build up outta there

 

Any idea how fast you were going there?

btw Monkie, youve never installed a clutch? their easy, you can do it yourself, i did.

 

wasn't me
but the car is doing about 160 or so and remember this is with 4.10 rear
this is not my car but someone else doing a dyno run


here are soem more flame pix though since I love em

and yes wankel motors love to do this

 

Well, RX, doesn't look like I'm getting one....for now.

However...if you see one in the 1200-1500 range, lemme know.

 

what went on with the car?
I am sure you would have enjoyed it even if it is not as fast as your TTA

that sux man

 

I didn't mean I had a TTA...I meant I had a Turbo from a TTA.....sorry

I might get an 84 TA tho w/ a couple of goodies.

 

Hey RX7speed , do you know of any sites that explain how the rotary engine works ? I know you can explain it to me , but I wanna go into detail .I saw your avatur near your IP name and was just real curious as to how it works ..Thanx RX7

 

Hey RX... can you give me the RX7 forum URL? i might end up giving my step dad my chevelle because i cant afford the gas on this thing, so im thinking about an 88 rx7 5 speed turboII... its modified...

 

Here you go Graeme http://www.rx7club.com/index.php now thank me.

 

LOL Thanks Monkie, ******* just messing.. well the chevelle is gone 2 my step dad and im getting a car!

 

I know how you feel man. That LT1 gets about 3 miles to the gallon. Well maybe alittle more but geez it seems terrible! V8s aren't what they are cracked up to be.

 

Im getting 7 in the city and 11 on freeway...!

 

LOL sweeeeeeeeet gotta love that. Keep them garden hoses I mean, fuel lines working right.

 

ok guys
um this is a thirdgen site not a 2nd gen RX-7 site


but as for a site that lets you know how a rotary works let me see what I can find

it is really easy to be honest on there fuction and to rebuild
the rep they have is not really something they should get unless you are talking thirdgen rx7 they sux for how long the motor last


as for how a rotary works here is one site to get a little info on it
http://www.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm

if you are looking for picutres and crap like that wayners just give me some time I will get them posted up here
but till then another flamage pic for y'all

 

I was thinking the same thing , but I guess we all need a little rice in our diet sometimes huh ? J/K J/K

Cool man , thanx alot RX7SPEED ! ...gatta love the flame pics

 

NO JOKE HEH , might wanna be carefull when you throw your cigarette out the window to

 

hey wayne I know it is prolly not all of what you are looking for and I was kinda tired when I wrote it
but you can get a small write up on the rotary in the ontario board including some pictures as to what the inside looksl ike

 

Just look at his avatar...blue is intake, and all 3 air compartments are kept seperate..if you watch as the A/F mixture would come in, it's compressed, then the spark (the things to the right are plugs) then it expands due to explosion, and because of the placement of the rotor, it expands to the direction that has more volume....and then goes out the exhaust. The advantage? There are always 3 seperate sections in full circle. Usually 2 or 3 rotors are ran too (Rotor=Triangle thingy) in their own seperate compartments. And since it's a fluid continuious circular motion, these things will rev till you let off the gas. You'll have to worry about overspinning your accessories before anything else. I know the redline on the 89 I was looking at was 8...Monkie'll tell you his pulls to 9. Anyways, the genius of the idea, is the simplicity. Count the parts. The SIMPLEST 4 banger piston engine has 40 parts!!!!. I think the rotary is like 12...correct me if I'm wrong RX. The rotary engine at one point (maybe still) had the HIGHEST HPoutput/displacement ratio of any internal combustion engine made!!!!. They're lightweight, simple, efficient, high revving, and dependable. Problem.....Where's the torque?

 

"A two-rotor rotary engine has three main moving parts: the two rotors and the output shaft. Even the simplest four-cylinder piston engine has at least 40 moving parts, including pistons, connecting rods, camshaft, valves, valve springs, rockers, timing belt, timing gears and crankshaft.

This minimization of moving parts can translate into better reliability from a rotary engine. This is why some aircraft manufacturers (including the maker of Skycar) prefer rotary engines to piston engines.

All the parts in a rotary engine spin continuously in one direction, rather than violently changing directions like the pistons in a conventional engine do

The power delivery in a rotary engine is also smoother. Because each combustion event lasts through 90-degrees of the rotor's rotation, and the output shaft spins three revolutions for each revolution of the rotor, each combustion event lasts through 270-degrees of the output shaft's rotation. This means that a single-rotor engine delivers power for three-quarters of each revolution of the output shaft. Compare this to a single-cylinder piston engine, in which combustion occurs during 180-degrees out of every two revolutions, or only a quarter of each revolution of the crankshaft (the output shaft of a piston engine).

Since the rotors spin at one-third the speed of the output shaft, the main moving parts of the engine move slower than the parts in a piston engine. This also helps with reliability. "

 

THANX ALOT BILLY , very informative ! Very good , THANX !

Wayne

 

if you go to the ont board there is another write up in there by me
and more pictures mind you



and 'clock you do have a redline for a reason

the e-shaft is only supported in the middle and so if you hit high rpms then the e-shaft can wobble a little bit which can cause the apex seals to get close to the housing and break one of the bastards. also the heat inside a rotory motor cause cause the gear teeth that hold the rotor and e-shaft in movemetn, it will cause those to expand and then they could come in contact with each other in high rpms b.c of the e-shaft flex...
few other things also but can't remember

oh yeah I heard something about at 22,000 rpms that you can cause the bearings to start to twist and deform also

and with the stock ports though it doesn't do much good to go very far past the redline unless you have mods

 

RX7Speed did you pass emmissions? the rotary engine is impressive...

 

me pass smog???
I would not make it past the visual, headers and no cats
when I made the TII swap I dont think I can pass b/c it is not OEM equip for the car
yeah so maybe for the same car that came STOCK with the motor but not mine

also when I was N/A I am sure I could have passed when I had the THREE cats on the car
but I removed those asap