Anyone try this? i'm having a serious and embarassing problem at the track.

Looking at the tech article, looks like you wire the crank wire
to the remote Solenoid, then you?

It looks like in the diagram, the remote Solenoid energizes the
original power wire and also energizes the I terminal, which is the
crank wire correct?

I don't see how this helps, because it looks like it still has to use
the Solenoid on the starter to crank and engage the teeth?

Can someone theorize why this would work better please. I would think you would need to energize the motor directly..

-- Joe

 

By using a remote solenoid, you keep hot power away from the starter solenoid. In a factory setup the engine heat is affecting the factory solenoid and wiring. When you go to a remote solenoid there's no power at the starter solenoid. It will stay cooler.

It all has to do with electricity and heat.

 

Hi Steve,

Ok, so it has nothing to do with bypassing your original solenoid, it simply provides more amperage and less loss?

Interesting, well I don't have much of a choice. I'm running the "small" gm hi output starter, and if my car is hotter than about 130, I can't restart.. My headers are about an inch away from the solenoid.. yack..

Thanks bud!

-- Joe

 

i run a Ford Solenoid on mie and it helps a bit. Also make sure ALL your ground connections and battery connections are tight and mucho clean. You want all the juice you can to get to the starter.

 

I also run a ford solenoid and a mini starter. You could try putting a heat shield on the starter if it's too close to the headers. Even something as simple as a shield can reduce the amount of heat soak the starter will get.

 

My friend is using a home-made aluminum heat shield to cover his solenoid.

Personally, I'm using the larger starter that's used with a two piece rear main block and my header is sitting about 1/8 of an inch from the solenoid. It's been like this since the engine install last October and I haven't had a problem yet. *fingers crossed*

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for your responses. I gave it a whirl.

Bought the solenoid, some 2 gauge wire, ends, and a small universal heat shield for extra protection, and some ground wire.

I used the ground wire to bridge the S and R connectors on the
starter, and ran the 2 gauge to the new solenoid, wired the S connector, but left the I connector on the new solenoid alone, replaced the positive wire with new 2 gauge to the battery as well, and put all the fuseable links to the new solenoid. (combing the knock sensor wire, and temp wire out of the mess).

And lemme tell you all, it works AWESOME. Before my car barely cranked at 130 degrees. I let it warm up to about 220 right before the fans kicked on, and shut it down., With parking lights on even, the car cranked like brand new. I'm thrilled.

-- Joe

 

It's also easier to connect a remote start switch to the remote solenoid to bump the engine over when adjusting valves, doing a compression test etc. I need to mount a permanent start button under the hood for this. Trying to connect a couple of aligator clips to the factory starter through hot headers isn't a nice thing to try and do.

 

True. I'm one of those people that adjust the valves while the motor is running tho. I also adjust my valves like once a month heh..

But yeah, thats not a bad idea. I've got a few small quirks to fix but I think this is gonna be a good season if I don't blow anything up.

-- Joe