evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

how hard it is to replace the outside door locks? iv got a broken key in my passenger side and with winter coming up i dont wanna have my driver side door lock get frozen up again and i cant get in besides by the hatch so im looking at replacing these and maybe the door handles since the springs are broken in those.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Take the door panels off, roll window up. Open door and reach in under the bottom of the window glass, unhook the lock rod from the cylinder, and pull the clip off. The lock slips out the outside and the new one goes back in the same way. Use the clips that came with the new locks.

91 Droptop

Something stupid but get new gaskets, lots of time they do not come with the locks. I had to order mine seperatly

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

that easy?

rffanat1c

Yes it is that easy. Also if you create an account on www.autozone.com, you get FREE access to the Chilton's manual. They call it their "repair guide" but it is just the Chilton manual retyped online with the images from the book scanned and imho, better because you can enlarge their images for greater detail.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The diagram is in post #10 of the following link (though since you'll be inside the door, the rest of the thread might prove interesting):

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html

JamesC

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

As the guy above said, yes, it is that easy. If you have the right tools, it can be done in an hour or so. I had to swap out my factory set in the parking lot of the apartment complex I was living in after the jerk that broke into my car decided to try to pop out the passenger's side lock (before he punched the half-dollar sized hole in the door skin next to it ), and I'd never done it before.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

ill be replacing these tomorrow but i have a question, how do the rods attach to the cylinders?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

They have plastic clips that clip into the hole in the lock cylinder's lever. The lock rod slips through the clip, which is spun around and clips over the rod to hold it in place. It reads confusing, but you'll see it when you get in there. The clips should just push off of the rods with a finger tip or possibly a screwdriver.

Unless you have the really crappy ones which attach to the cylinder lever and the lock rod clips straight through them. Those are flat against the lever and will need to be pried away with a screwdriver as they have an old keyhole-shaped hole in them for the lock rod, and they need to be pushed out of their mounting holes so that the larger hole for the rod will line up with the rod so the rod can be released (yes, I know, even more confusing and a bigger PITA if you have to deal with these). These are similar to the ones seen on the hood struts on the ends of each strut.

Oh, and if you break a clip, they can be bought either through the Help catalog or on eBay.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

hoping it all goes smoothly and i dont break anything, if anything ill just do the passenger so i can use a key to get into it but i plan on doing both. im gonna leave my rear hatch and the strorage on the original key since im never in there but ill leave 1 key in the console and 1 on me just in case

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'll give you a tip... Before you go to undo the plastic clips on the lock cylinders (or any plastic piece such as the upper door sills), get the doors and interior warm first. The cold plastic cracks and breaks easier (which is what happened to my uncracked dash pad when I got it stuck trying to get it out of the back of the car to be reinstalled on the dash... As I turned it to line it up as I was sitting in the driver's seat, it got caught and "CRACK!!!" ).

58mark

iTrader: (3)

one more tip. those slide-on clips that hold the lock to the door can be really difficult to slide on or off, and can require a lot of strength sometimes. It is really nice to have a pair of locking pliers (either regular or needlenose) that you can grab the turned out lip with, and that will give you more surface area for pushing on to slide them into place

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Oh, and since I figured out why you're replacing the locks in the first place (finally read the whole first post rather than skimming it), you can probably get the broken key out of the lock once it's out of the door and have a spare set of locks.

But, anyways, go to one of those off-the-wall auto parts stores or a mom-and-pop hardware store (or a locksmith if you must) and get yourself some lock lubricant. My ignition lock, when I first bought my car, was so worn out and gummed up that the lock would turn even if the key WAS NOWHERE NEAR THE CAR (I went into the house with something with my friend outside and he started the car even with the keys in my pocket). I found a tube of lubricant my father had stored for years in one of our other cars and put that in the lock pronto, freeing the tumblers up to actually lock the ignition. I followed that up with a new lock about 3 years later because the old key was so worn out it literally had one tiny bump on it that would actuate the lock and the rest was completely smooth. WD40 may work, but the lock lube will probably work better (keep in mind it's designed to be used with home locks as well, which generally see just as much if not more use).

And then get some clear silicone spray and apply that to your door and side window seals to prevent the door from freezing shut in the winter. Spray it on, and it will soak in after a moment.

And DON'T KEEP ANY KEYS IN THE CAR! Put one in your wallet if you have to (spare for the hatch, most likely), but DON'T KEEP ANY IN THE CAR.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yeah i got them replaced today and took 2 nice little scratchs in my driver side door while doing it buts its worth it i guess. but yeah my ignitions like that sometimes, sometimes it will grab and iv gotta use the key but i can also pull my key out of the ignition while its running but i like that, for the sole purpose i can lock my car while its running and take my keys to unlock it. comes in handy in the winter lol. but iv already got another one on hand just in case i need it. and iv already got a spare key in my wallet for the doors. the one in the console is for the hatch and back compartment

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Just take the key out of the car... Let's put it this way. When my car was broken into, the only things they left were the sub and amp because they were in the hatch. If I had left a key in the console, guess what else I'd still be missing (even though the idiot didn't even think to use the hatch release I had just installed not too long before this)... A guy breaks into your car and goes through EVERYTHING looking for ANYTHING worthwhile (yes, people are insane enough to leave their wallet in the car in the console), finds the key, looks in the back and sees a sub box and amp, goes out, unlocks the hatch, and you're out another $500 (roughly, based on a $200 box and the fact that I paid about $300 for my subs and amp I have now)...

Don't forget to lube your locks and weatherstrip... BEFORE it gets too cold for the lube to work properly.

CatmanFS

Or maybe just dont get subs, and don't drive around like an idiot. Parking your car is dangerous. You need to be careful. I am not your grandma, but you know what I mean.