tmellott89

I'm using a 32B bin and files. Never had this problem before but after making a few bin changes and changes on my adx, my temp on the laptop has to be way off. When I first fired everything up it seemed fine matching my gauge and then all of a sudden it started reading only in the 110-120 range now when it should be warm gauge showing around 170- 180. I've tried several adx's all read the same. Everything else is right and seems the same, though on a 20 min drive blms didn't change from 128, ints spike to 128 then slowly down to 70 then spike to 128. Which didn't do that before unless its not going closed loop? Any help would be appreciated.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Check the MAT sensor temperature. If it is going higher then the CTS then change out the CTS and pigtail for it.

If the MAT & CTS track each other, it may be that the thermostat is stuck open.

Note that this only applies in the case that the MAT is still in the plenum.

RBob.

tmellott89

Yeah my log shows it MAT to pretty close to CTS. Only few degrees off.Also alot lower than my normal MAT would be by 20 degrees or so.. The gauge in dash seemed to read about normal though factory gauge, hard to be pinpoint accurate. Just weird how it was all of a sudden. Guess I'll check thermostat first. What does CTS act like when going bad? Fluctuation and way off readings?

tmellott89

Did some more data logging this weekend. Haven't had time to pull out the thermostat. Once again the temp in tunerpro rises up to 107-112 and hangs around those temps while MAT rose up to 92 sitting at an idle. The dash gauge kept rising to what I believe would be around 180 or so. The radiator was warm as if true temp was around 180 while the plenum on intake was pretty cool.I'm still gonna check thermostat first. But I'm not understanding why radiator feels so warm compared to temp in tuner pro and dash gauge kept rising. Was never like this before. I did make changes to my adx file before this with enabling data tracing, history tables, and setup APU1channels for wideband( which I just received Lc-2, great deal on amazon) hopefully I didn't mess anything up but everything else seems to work fine.

tmellott89

Alright today I put in new CTS sensor. Nothing had changed,still reading the same on a 15 minute ride after already warmed up it read 103-110 on the drive, when it should have been warm even got into it in high gear once. Pulled in the driveway and sitting at an idle my computer started glitching not giving me any info ALDL and the dash gauge rose up over 220f. Using old sensor I put a temp gauge and CTS in boiling water on stove and then plugged sencor in to car with key on tunerpro read 160 after pulling sensor out of water (which is about right BC water was down to 180 at the time itself) Dad put his lighter under the sensor and it read 180 or so on tunerpro. But with sensor in vehicle they won't read right while running. WTF is going on? Already checked volts from ecm so I'm sure pigtail isn't it.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

May be air in the engine cooling system. The CTS is typically up top where an air pocket can form. In this case need to burp the system and maybe add a small 1/16" hole in the thermostat to help bleed air out.

The other possibility is that the ECM is going bad. With the engine at idle rap on the ECM case, if how the engine runs changes as this is done, the ECM is also done.

RBob.

tmellott89

Engines been built for about 9 or 10 years. Never low on coolant and never had to add any really. Nothing leaks... It's just awkward all of sudden to be an air pocket consistently. And CTS input I got anywhere from 4.92-4.99 volts with multimeter. To me that would rule out ecm and pigtail. Only thing I didn't check yet was thermostat. But even if stuck open after awhile i would beleive it would get hotter then 112F and dash gauge showed up over 220F but my PC glitched at the same time and all data wouldn't show at that exact time. Mabey ECM is going out. I don't have a spare to test tho. All other aldl data shows correctly too. I've changed all files but .bin file and no change. Unless I have something really messed up in my bin file? Is this possible BC it started the 2nd time I used this file. First time was fine but got hot running at idle up to about 240 F. Also this is using 32B mask.

Wirewrestler

I havae similiar issue. We had to replace the radiator and when doing so I (embarrassed) didnt put the cooling fan back in the mounts right locking up the fan and blew fusable link wire and fan motor. Fan motor was replaced and now the temp gaige in the dash won't go above 110. We have since replaced the temp sensor and thermostat and still reads 110. I know the temp is running about where it should because the fan is kicking on as it should and we have tested with a thermometer and are getting a good reading. Any thoughts? Also we are getting a random "burp" of coolant out of the top of the overflow. Makes no sense... We have flushed and filled multiple times on a machine and still reading 110

tmellott89

Alright time for a little more feed back on this issue. ive now checked the thermostat and nothing is wrong with it. it opens and closes in boiling water on its own. With that said I have now switched everything over from $32B to $6E ARAP Bin with no changes Same for when I ran the stock $32B SLP chip I have. therefore the different .bins and ADX files have no changed difference on where my TEMP readings are in tunerpro. ive tried beating on the ECM with my fist and nothing seems to change the way the engine runs. Ive now ruled out just about every possibility... other than Autoprom.

tmellott89

Today I've done more data logging and with nothing changing I've checked my volts at CTS connector and probed wired at ECM connectors both showing 5 volt at key on. With CTS connected I checked ohms right after connector on CTS and ohms at the connection for the ecm, and clarified that both pretty much match. After hooking everything back up I datalogged my temperature with tunerpro and only getting up to 109 degrees today when my ohms showed it should be warmer. I knocked on ecm with screwdriver and my temp readings would bounce all over between 98-109 degrees going haywire, while the car ran completely fine holding a stable 800 rpm idle. Nothing's changed on how the car runs but temperature in tunerpro is wrong and when you rap on ecm the temp readings and ONLY the temp go haywire. I'm going to order a new ecm tommorow hoping this is my problem. Anyone ever hear of just one input going bad on ecm? I have no clue what else to do and going nuts over this.

tmellott89

Alright I think I can end this non sense... New ecm and my temperature is fine now. $90 later....

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

Man that is weird. I would have never thought it could be the ecm. Where did you get the ecm from?

tmellott89

The new one I got was from autozone with a 1 year warranty. My old ecm was original GM. I still think itshard to believe it was the ecm. But temperature reads fine now. It's just awkward how only one input read wrong. I don't know unless it was going bad and this is just the start of it. Take a look at these pics I took off my memcals tho anyone ever see this? ( long as my upload works) the one chip both legs on each side are broke off and a resistor soldered to it jumping one leg to another what's that about? I didn't notice it or know any difference years ago when I put my adapter on. I don't believe it to be GM though it was an SLP chip before.

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

Wow, I've never seen that before. Possibly a mod that was done to fix an old gm problem with the memcal. Maybe a technical service bulletin. I once bought a remanufactured ecm from rock auto. Before I sent the old one back, I compared the two. My old ecm had a jumper wire soldered on the circuit board that the remanufactured one did not have.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

This isn't unusual for the '7165 ECM. This is why I mentioned rapping on the case. Although it didn't cause the engine to stumble, you could at least see the CTS value jumping around.

Others have also seen this. From what I can tell it is a modification to the limp mode circuitry. Maybe (?) done by SLP for larger injectors?

RBob.

JJ88GTA

There used to be an old trick, I don't know the specifics but people used to solder in resistors to fool the computer into thinking the engine was running cooler than it really was to enable a richer fuel condition. NOT sure if that's what you're seeing there.

tmellott89

Yeah I wouldn't have a clue actually. I never seen this before. Do you think it's anything that I need to worry about? I'm not using that chip anymore either, I went to ARAP .bin for now. You think there would be any problems with using different chip with that memcals? It seems to run fine on ARAP it actually has a very smooth rolling idle now. I'm still playing with MAF Tables and trying to figure out the rest of the tables tho.