GeneralIesrussi

Hey guys,
Im at my wits end trying to figure out how to get my car running.
I have a 1988 2.8L MPFI v6 Camaro (243,000km) that I've been trying to get running since I bought it, I have a limited history, but still cant turn up any conclusive results.
Okay, lets start with what I know,
-This car was running and driving a couple months ago.
-It apparently ran sluggish before it died.
-The car has new spark plugs, new MAF sensor, and a new fuel pump before I bought it.
-It will ONLY turn over and makes NO ATTEMPT to start, just crank crank crank. Just like it has no fuel or spark (Checked both)
-It used to have some pioneer sound and alarm system, which has long since not been in use and has left a rather unsightly mess of the wiring under the dash, it simply is not as organized as it would have been by factory, so i don't know whats custom and what is not.
Okay so I noticed the fuel pump was hooked up different then I was used to, a power wire came from the positive battery terminal off to a small plastic holder with a bolt on it in which 3 wires were connected to it via nut, however the car ran previously with this setup.
-Okay now the important facts
-I have tested fuel pressure when priming and cranking, 42psi, then 39psi at the shrader valve on the fuel rail.
-I grounded the #1 spark plug on the block and saw a spark, they are new "champion fine point spark plugs"
-I don't know if they are gapped adequately or are pre-gapped.
-A car with poor compression should at least try to fire up and run rough though. (Haven't checked compression)
-I have checked all the fuses and none are broken, (Unknown if any are missing)
-I was told it needs "a tune up" and new exhaust manifold gaskets
-I have not checked the timing or if moisture is in the distributor cap.
-I have not tested the resistance on any injectors yet, (Should be 16-17psi?)
-I have already replaced the starter motor with a known working one.
-I have new parts to put in (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, ICM, TPS, IAC Valve, alternator, fuel injectors, fuel rail, full set of intake gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets) all just on a shelf.
And once more, the car ONLY CRANKS, NO START, NO SPUTTER, NOTHING
SO what do you think guys think, I really don't know where to go with this, I'd love to start improving the car, but I cannot until I can actually get it running.

8t2 z-chev

give it a good whiff of starting fluid and see if it tries to run on that for a moment-if it does there likely is a fueling problem.If spark,fuel, and compression are present,check for plugged exhaust system(that would also cause sluggish running before engine became inop.)

GeneralIesrussi

Thats a great idea, I will do that and report back, someone told me to spray it after the MAF sensor (I'll sneak the cleaner nozzle just after and spray there), so that's what i'll do next, The car has non-stock exhaust so i will also check if the CAT is missing or gutted, this 2.8L has dual (2.5"? exhaust)

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Of the new parts to install, I'd replace the ICM and see if it helps.

GeneralIesrussi

Alright I'll give that one a try as well today, i'll post here and edit my original post to reflect what has been replaced.

GeneralIesrussi

Might as well revive my dead post, I still have the car and it still doesn't run right, I got it to run and idle, turns out it was the fuel injectors being all seized up and the fuel pump got disconnected intermittently. However now it will idle fine albeit a bit rich, but when you put it in gear it will run, but if you give it throttle and let it idle down, it will want to stall. Currently I suspect it is either poor timing, low fuel pressure under load, too rich under load, or something of the sort. I have tested multiple MAF sensors, and ecms, I'll report back with the fix if I find one. If anyone sees this, I'm open to input,I would really like to get this figured out.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Are the injectors new or used ? Check engine light on ?
Have you checked the coolant temp sensor ohms.
The poor running is it a cylinder miss or rich condition.Engine cold startup or warm closed loop ?

LiveIt!

Hey dude, went down this road with my 88 Sport Coupe 2.8, been a great daily driver for almost 3,000 miles now!

have you checked under distributor cap for signs of corrosion? I rebuilt mine with a new ICM and pickup coil (cap and rotor were still in good shape.) While my car ran before with just a fresh ICM, it gave a lot stronger spark

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Any code 24 ? Have you cleaned the iac or set the min air speed ?

GeneralIesrussi

Last year I pulled the whole distributor and completely rebuilt it, new ICM, pickup coil, cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Haven't checked for moisture recently, however it still runs the same as when I changed the parts out last summer. As for the injectors I rebuilt a used set from another 88 camaro bosch 2 style, new o-rings, filters, cleaned, and tested spray pattern to be good, and checked for leak down. When I put the distributor back in, I set the base timing, but never unhooked the ESC or timed it using a gun yet (I have one now though).

GeneralIesrussi

For the injectors I rebuilt and tested a different set as described above. Check engine light was coming on for a MAF code (34 I think) but I believe I had the MAF sensor disconnected, I hooked that back up so not sure if I still have a light on or not. I have not checked the coolant sensor, and from what I read that is a great idea, I will be checking that next time I get the chance, I have a few new ones laying around, so I'll install it next time I'm out there, thanks for the helpful chart. The poor running doesn't seem like a miss, it seems more like a condition exceeding a fuel mixture causing either a lean or rich stall. I believe the issue only occurred in the warm closed loop, maybe both, the first time I drove it (and only time) it drove perfect for the 3km to the gas station, when I turned it back on again I had the stalling issue, haven't had the chance to drive it since, it would do the rpm drop when putting it in gear though and giving a little throttle. Come to think of it, I think it had a 2500 rpm backfire (timing issue?) Last time I was testing it.
Edit: I did clean the IAC and it improved slightly, it was fairly gummed up, and did not set the base idle speed, although I am familiar with the process, I have done it on my 91' 305. I'll look into doing that after the above things to check/test.

zed-028

did you ever investigate the cat?

GeneralIesrussi

I have not, the car has over 280,000km on it, I did suspect it might be plugged though. how would you recommend testing, pull the 02 sensor and run it that way, to see if it makes a difference?

LiveIt!

Yes that's the easiest way!!

GeneralIesrussi

I'll give it a go once I get the time, thanks everyone

zed-028

or drop it after the headers

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Fuel pressure regulator? Ruptured diaphragm-pull vacuum hose from FPR for a couple of minutes while running and see if fuel leaks out.

GeneralIesrussi

Good idea, I'll check that as well

zed-028

if you pull the pipes before the cat, make sure you clean off at least half the plugs before starting it as theyll be fouled up.