92GTA

iTrader: (11)

So while I was doing my front brakes I decided to replace my spindle because I suspected mine was bent since my tire seems to rub the rear of the wheel well before full lock. Anyway....

2 things friggin broke on me. First, I get the spindle on with a new ball joint and as I'm buttoning things up, I go to screw the zerk fitting into the bottom of it and bam, snapped right off! WTF, I hardly had any pressure on it. So my question, I had already returned the tool kit I used to press out the old one and install the new one. Can I get the rest of the zerk fitting out of there and replace it? What do you guys suggest? I sure as hell don't want to replace the ball joint again. At least it seemed to have come pre-greased.

Second thing, the treads on the stud for the outter tie rod. I was tightening the castle nut by hand and before I knew it, the threads are stripped and the castle nut won't come back off. Dammit, so new outter tire rod from Spohn to replace this one. I guess I was too hard on it upon initial install a couple years ago or something. Is this common or are these junk metal tir rod ends or something? Is it going to be a bitch to get that castle nut off there? Any tricks? Is it worth just buying the outter tie rod and having the alignment shop replace it? I'm sure the car would make it the few blocks with the cottar pin thru the castle nut.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Did the thread strip or is the stud just spinning? If its stripped, cut or grind the nut off and get an new tie rox end.
And no its not a common problem, but there are a lot of really low quality replacement steering parts out there and fyi there are a couple threads on here about just that problem with parts from spohns kit. I always use moog and have never had an issue what so ever with any of their parts.

As for the zero, same deal, probably cheap materials, not sure what brand u are using. You should be able to get the broken piece out with an easy out then try again. Maybe chase the threads before installing the zerk, they may be messed up.
Its also possible the threads of the balljoint and the zerk did t match, have seen that happens before. Metric/sae parts get mixed up.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Well I just ordered new Spohn outter tie rod and paid for the USPS 2 day so I have it Wednesday which was when my alignment appointment is scheduled for at the end of the day. I'll just pay the alignment shop to replace the tie rod, errr. The thread appears to be stripped, the stud doesn't move at all, but the castle nut turns with little effort and won't back off.

Turns out I can't get a cottar pin in there either, the nut isn't quite far enough down on the stud. I was able to get some really thin gauge safety wire thru it for getting to the alignment shop. I hate slap dicking stuff. I don't even own a grinder or anything tho and I don't wanna have to wait another month for an appointment (one of only a couple shops with a lift low enough for my lowered car)

It could have been parts mixed in the box and had the wrong zerk fitting sure, it happens. I think it was just cheap tho. My Spohn ball joint (came with the tubular a-arms) failed on me after only 2,000 miles and destroyed my fender causing allot of damage so this time I used one from CarQuest. I'll try an easyout and see if that works. I was hoping I could then just get a new fitting in there.

AlkyIROC

I had a tie rod end failing on a pickup truck. Wanted to save a few bucks so I bought a house brand. 10,000 km later, the house brand failed. Decided to then buy a Moog part and as far as I know, it's still on the truck. I sold the truck last year.

The zerk fitting can probably be removed with an extractor.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Well ****, sounds like my entire problem is ever going with Spohn in the first place. The bitch is the Spohn center link and tie rod kit actually rubs the Spohn tubular k-member when the suspension is compressed making road racing very dangerous. So much for trying to go all one brand as much as I could for compatibility.

I'm also starting to wonder if the Spohn tubular k-member has moved the wheels back in position from stock because my original spindle looked identical to the new one and didn't appear to be bent at all. I'll know for sure after my alignment because I'm also having my frame checked for square at the same time (it's actually a frame & chassis shop).

AlkyIROC

Check your wheelbase. It should be 101"

I have taller than stock front tires and they hit the inner fenders. My aftermarket crossmember and a-arms have no steering stops so I welded some on. When turning, you should be hitting steering stops before the steering box reaches the end of it's travel.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

I have the stock size wheels and tires on there now for getting it back to correct. You know what, now that you mention it, I don't think I have bump stops on my aftermarket stuff either I'll have to check that. Can you post a pic or explain where you attached yours?

Thanks for the help! Alex

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Spohns k member is trash and Im positive that it and or the combo with his a arms are what moved the wheels back. His newer k members have notches for clearance of the steering components, which is a botched repair at best. Your better of going back to stock

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

No going back to stock, my original k-member, a-arms etc are LONG gone. I'm not rich and the car has other things I'm more focused on at the moment so if I ever do change to something else, it will be years and years down the road. Sucks to hear but thanks for the honesty. I have heard similar things on here before over the years after I installed mine.