1sloRS

Hey fellas been on here a while just reading and looking at pics. Just sold my motorcycle so now it's time to start throwing some money at my camaro. Going for a great all around car but leaning towards a corner carver and car will not be a DD. Car is a 1989 RS bone stock.

Here's what I am planning on purchasing from spohn this week:
Koni yellows all around
Eibach pro kit
Tubular sub-frame connectors
Lower control arms polyurethane on both ends
Steering brace
Panhard bar also polyurethane on both ends.
Fell like this would be a good start in my suspension setup. Not gonna get a torque arm setup yet because I am unsure of trans setup I wanna go with. But any tips or things you guys might recommend would be much appreciated. Thanks fellas

Necron

iTrader: (1)

-I would wait for the annual koni spring sale before you buy (that's what I'm doing).

-Springs I'm going to be running global west semi competition springs, but I'm going to be autocrossing and driving mine in summer.

-For corners you really don't want poly on the LCA. Go with Rubber, or a roto joint. Founders has some good alternatives.

-Since you have a RS I assume you have small sway bars. Find a stock 36 front hollow and at least a 21mm rear.

Eric-86sc

iTrader: (18)

Look into buying wider wheels and a good set of tires as well. All those parts will be severely handicapped but running relatively skinny stock wheels.

1sloRS

Thanks for the replys fellas I am going to be getting some 18x10.5 and 18x9s for it soon. And when is the sale? And how much do you save? I will be getting sway bars for it before summer hits. And what about roto joints on the panhard bar?

Also do I need to get adjustable LCAs and panhard bar? I'm guessing yes since I will be lowering the car.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

One way or another, if you don't purchase them now, you probably will later—don't ask me how I know. I'd throw my money down once and be done with it.

JamesC

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

You can go poly on chassis side (reduce NVH), and del-sphere on axle side. If initial cost is a concern, you can always swap the axle side out, later.
I agree with do it once, but sometimes other areas of the project need the big money up front. Depends on your budget and total project build.

1sloRS

I'm definitely all about one and done. I hate having to buy the same item again because I scimped on the first go round. Thanks for the tips guys! Now that I got all this stuff sorted out, I guess tires will be my next big thing.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

2nd vote for Founders 3 Way Roto / Poly Joint... if it's a daily driver, you don't want the metal joint... the 3 way poly one articulates easily and much less harsh than the metal on metal contact...

Any subframe connectors will help... I did Spohn first, then Alston (T Top Car)....

~Hotbird~

I have ran full polyurethane and didnt have any of the harsh ride issues guys talk about. Just a little stiffer.
Adjustable lca's wont be needed unless your gonna run a massive tire and need a little wiggle room. With the lowering springs you will need an adjustable panhard to center the rear left to right wise. And lca relocation brackets to correct the lca angle.
I run umi stuff and couldnt be happier.
Sounds like your gonna have a nice setup.

UMI Performance

Sounds like a great start!

Keep us in mind if there is anything we can help with.

Like recommended above, for control arms you could consider one at least having a spherical joint to allow less deflection in the suspension.

For torque arms, if you purchase the long stock style, which is what I recommend then it is easy to get transmission crossmembers for specific transmissions. Just a thought.

Let us know if we can help any. Good luck!

plum92_camaro

Good call on the Koni's, definitely shop around or wait for a sale. A tip on the rears, if you plan on adjusting them regularly for street and track buy the 4th gen rears, they are externally adjustable. If you plan on installing them and leaving them at one setting use the thirdgen rears. You have to unbolt the thirdgen shocks and compress them to adjust them.

Eibach pro kit is a good choice. One of the better spring rate options for aftermarket springs unless you go to weight jacks. The fronts are linear/constant rates which is good but the rear are variable/progressive rates.

I like my UMI subframe connectors but I would like to recommend that if you plan to do any autoX events that you look at the SCCA or whatever club you will run with to see how SFC's will effect your class. SFC's in general or depending on how many mounting points they have will effect you class and can land you with cars you won't be competitive with.

Eibach pro kit is a good choice. One of the better spring rate options for aftermarket springs unless you go to weight jacks. The fronts are linear/constant rates which is good but the rear are variable/progressive rates.

I recommend the Top Down Solutions wonder bar/steering brace. I just like having the 6 holes instead of 4.

If your going for cornering DON'T go poly/poly. The stiffness of poly/poly can cause snap return during a corner. Either use the poly/rod end as recommended above or go with roto joints (UMI). A couple other companies make something similar to the roto joints but they call it something different.

For the torque arm, getting the front mounting point off the trans tail housing is a good idea. Shorter TA will have more and quicker downward force for increased traction. A longer TA will help braking by counteracting the rear end lifting. Food for thought.

Wider wheels and tires are a GREAT idea for handling. 17x9 with 275/40R17 is a good upgrade for these cars. The 18x10.5 would be awesome too. Whatever you go with, a square set up (all four the same size) is best for handling in these cars. Wider rear tires can cause understeer. I know the staggered look is popular but not the best set up for thirdgen handling.

1sloRS

Once again thanks for all the great info and being kind to a newbie in your responses.

I did get the Konis and got 25% off on them too! Then I also got the eibach pro kit. Both of them were ordered through auto anything.

Then from spohn (sorry umi if I wouldve seen your response then you would've had my business, like seeing you guys on here being active) I ordered lower control arms, panhard bar (both delsphere on one end and poly on the other) then a wonder bar and subframe connectors.

Then for wheels I did get the staggered look I will sacrifice a little less performance for the look I want. Any tire recommendations? Will not be driven in the winter so a solid summer tire would be great.

Also what else should be purchased to complete the suspension? Sway bars? Strut braces? Anything else??

WTR388

How did you get 25% off the shocks?

You've basically done what my set up will be except I'm using Founders for lots of my parts

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

You may already have 34mm Hollow front sway bars. You can either check them by looking at the front bar (pinched metal and drain hole near the ends), or by checking for the F41 RPO code in the glove box. There could be other suspension codes as well, but I know the F41 has the 34mm/21mm front/rear bar combo.

~Hotbird~

I forget the drop on the pro kit but im assuming its the usual eibach 1.25. Once you get it all installed you can put a level on the lca's with the car on the ground (or load the rear with a jack) and check your lca angle. If it is level you'll be just OK. If the rear end mount is higher then the chassis mount you will suffer from anti squat/instant center issues. I prefer not trying to explain the whole ic situation but there are lots of threads about it.
It will drive down the road..but excessive rear squat and nose dive is no bueno lol.

1sloRS

It was advertised on the page when I logged on and I'm sorry I misinformed it was 20% my bad.

I highly doubt my car has any suspension goodies on it being that it is an RS. But I could be wrong and thanks for the tips.

Hotbird I understand exactly what you are saying. How would I fix that if it were the case? The adjustable mounts for the rearend? And also thanks for the tip!

I am hoping to get the majority of this put on this weekend. But we will see. I don't have tires yet so it will just have to sit on jack stands for a little while, until I decide what brand to get. Any tips in that department would be greatly appreciated also.

~Hotbird~

Yes. Lca relocation brackets.
Your gonna have a pretty nice set up...Congrats and have fun.
/thumbs up

1sloRS

Thanks man! Trying to make sure I get it right the first time. And hopefully next winter I will have enough saved up for motor and trans. Then it will become really fun!

plum92_camaro

You might be surprised. I have 34/21mm sway bars in my RS. I don't think they are hallow though, can't remember for sure. Your RPO list i think is in the drivers rear compartment in the hatch, bottom of the lid.

1sloRS

Hmm may really be worth looking into then!