Warnd

Hey guys,

Ive been working on my ls1/t56 project for quite some time now, and the last bump in the road that stalled my project was trying to install this 9 inch rear end. I was having a hell of a time getting everything installed and lined up, especially the torque arm. However I feel like I might be going about it all wrong. Is there a certain order that I should try to be installing everything? I had everything in the rear suspension installed and I was trying to do the torqur arm last. This proved to be a bitch. Also, i have adjustable LCAs and panhard bar from founders and im not sure how to check to make sure those are adjusted properly (im not sure if these parts are throwing off the alignment.)

This 9 inch came out of a running thirdgen so I have to assume that it fits...I just think im doing something wrong. I could put up a few pictures I have if that would help. Any advice on the best order for installing the rear end and rear suspension components would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

What specific task is difficult? Do you have a torque arm made for a Ford 9" axle? They are different.

I use a floor jack to lift/twist things until holes line up. I find it easier to install the torque arm first because it keeps the axle from twisting when the springs are installed. But I've done everything in any order and it is all pretty simple if you are smart about how you're using the floor jack.

Adjust control arm length to roughly center the wheels in the wheel well. Make sure both control arms are the same length so the axle is square to the chassis. (Note that the body may not be the same side to side.)

Panhard bar length is adjusted to center the axle under the car.

Warnd

Hey Qwk,

I have been using the stock torque arm that came with my camaro and I believe that was what the previous owner was using as well. The 9 inch that I have was adapted to work with our cars using the stock parts. I guess the hardest part was getting the torque arm to line up with the bolt holes at the back on the rear end housing. I can get one of the bolts in, but the second one is just off by the slightest bit and it was giving me a huge headache. I tried to put the car at different heights and play with the height of the jack, but I just couldnt seem to get it to line up with that and the mount that attaches to the transmission.

I think my new plan of attack is going to be to attach the torque arm to the rear end first and then snake it into the transmission mount that way. I think this will be an easier approach for me.

Im probably overthinking this, but I have been fighting with this rear end for a while now and it is literally the last part of my swap that is not complete. It has frustrated me to the point where I was about to throw the stock rear end in and call it a day.

Thanks for your help...here is to hoping this weekend is more successful then past ones.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The torque arm bolt pattern with Ford 9" is usually (always?) different. I would be surprised if you don't need a special torque arm.

My torque arm has two sets of holes, one for stock and 12 bolt axles, and another for Ford 9". Mine also requires larger diameter and longer thru bolts.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

The bolt spacing I the same, only reason for the 2 sets of holes in aftermarket arms is to space the torque arm from the side of a 9" rear and some other aftermarket castings.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

There you go! Thanks, I couldn't remember the exact difference.

Does the stock torque arm lose support by being pushed out to the side? in other words, should one avoid using stock torque arm with 9" swap?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Shouldn't matter, no. Unless of course the arm wont clear the axle in question.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

When I installed a 9" in my friends car, I learned that the torque arm had to move forward about 1-2". To do that, I had to take a cut off wheel to the front of the torque arm to allow it to slide forward.

First, I had to cut out the taper that prevents the arm from sliding forward in the bushing.

then I had to cut an inch off the front end of it so it would not contact the speedo cable. Since you are doing an LS swap, that may not be an issue for you.

I hope that helps.

Good luck with your swap!

Warnd

Thanks for all the help so far guys! I am going to take another stab at it over the holiday weekend to see how everything lines up.

Part of the problem is that this is not an aftermarket 9 in rear. I believe it was a 9 in that came out of some older Ford vehicle and was converted to be able to work in our cars. To be honest with you, I have next to no information about the rear as I bought it as part of a parts car from a member on here. The parts car came with loads of brand new suspension goodies and this rear end was just icing on the cake. I have a feeling that I am running into some rubbing issues by the back of the torque arm by the bolts. I feel like it wants to rub at the top of the tunnel by where the bolts go through the rear.

If I can get some pictures of the rear end pulled out of the car, can you guys help me identify it?

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

The one I installed was a converted rear as well. I still have it sitting on my garage floor as the posi gave up the ghost and it started chewing up axle seals.

I'll do something with it eventually

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

swap your proportional valve to the front brake line. start turning those down.

thatsupnow

I would think he's got it figured out since the last post was Nov 24 2016