killer777

So, I got the bird running, and it starts everytime now.
Heres the issue though, once started, it'll idle at 1k then shoot up to 3-4k on it's own until it seems, it warms up to about 180 *.

I have a ported intake, slp runners and pleumn. However, I don't think it's a vaccum issue because the bolts are torqued down correctly, in the correct order, and these are new gaskets.

My idle screw is adjusted forward, because at the factory setting, it will not idle. It will start, rev high and then die. Can I adjust the TPS sensor to fix this issue?

New TPS sensor, new o2 sensor, coolant sensor, adjustable fuel pressure reg. at 45psi, new ignition coil, plugs, and wires.

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Did you reset the iac? Does it ever idle normal? Has the ecm been retuned?

killer777

Yes, yes and no.

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Did these problems start after you put the intake on? Even though I'd think the maf would compensate for the changes it may not be enough. You may need a retune to get it right. Is it cammed as well? I would also suspect vacuum leaks but if it does idle normal when warm(which is at what rpm? and how rough?) then that's less likely a cause. You could make a simple homemade smoke machine, which is cheap and easy to do, to verify there are no vacuum leaks. If you really do have no leak I'd suspect cold operation settings in the tune.

killer777

Tried smoke machine already, no leaks. I thought the ECU would learn and adjust but hasn't yet. Right now it idles at just under 1k, but I also adjusted the idle screw forward a lot. Was hoping I could adjust the TPS sensor and get it running okay by that. Anything else I could check? I'm going to replace the IAC because it's 26 years old now and could probably use it.

Wanted to advance the timing the other day, so I unplugged the est connector and started it, but it wouldn't stay running for me to get the light going.

Runs good once it has warmed up. Can post a video of running after it has warmed up.

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

The ecu doesn't do any learning to correct major changes. The maf system compensates since the air passing the sensor changes which is what it bases it's requirements to run.

The tps really only needs to be set to the correct voltage so the ecm knows that the throttle is closed. Moving it will make the ecm think the throttle is open farther or less than it is and adjust incorrectly from there. Better off correcting problems in the tune as opposed to falsely adjusting it.

You could also check the cts circuit. Not just the sensor, the whole circuit.

CatmanFS

How far up is the idle screw? And why doesn't it run on the factory setting? Just wondering.