Cole Curtis

So I was wondering if we could get a little thread full of knowledge of how to hook on the street. Tires are pretty obvious but what suspension mods do you use? Adjustable shocks? All of that sort of stuff. I have a lsx 87 camaro and some 275s on cragars and boy getting that baby to hook is a PIA.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

What tires do you have? stickies or street? rear swaybar size ? Removed the front swaybar yet?

Cole Curtis

Street tires which I do realize doesn't help. Stock irocz size rear sway bar and haven't removed the front sway bar yet actually. Does that help a lot? I would think that would hurt the cornering quite a bit as this is a street car. More looking for how members have tuned their cars to hook on the street. I feel like a thread with some info to help people in the right direction would help alot. I have soft springs up front for slow lift of the nose and stiffer out back to transfer more to tires than squat.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

NITTO DRAG RADIALS. I used these on my last car and they hooked well. I gained 5 tenths at the track swapping to the Nittos from street tires.

Cole Curtis

5 tenths? thats crazy good. And I was talking more along the lines of are lower control arm relocation brackets a good idea? what springs or shocks do you run? Any other street racing tricks. But yeah number one is definitely tires once I get the chance.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

It was a mild car. 300-325HP. Ran a string of 14.2s-14.5s and I was sick of spinning. The Nittos dropped it to 13.7s and not much spin at all. Other than new factory type springs and shocks it had no suspension mods. I would suggest some SFCs though.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Same rules for traction on street as traction on track.

Do you want the straight line grip or do you want handling in the turns... You really can not have both really great.

Mine was a daily driver for many years, with weekend drag strip action. My chassis/suspension was/is...
S&W 10 point roll cage
Spohn weld in SFCs
Spohn adj. LCAs
Spohn weld on LCA relocation brackets
Spohn adj panhard
Jegster short saddle mount adj torque arm
V6 front springs
Moog Iroc replacement rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear
Stock type front struts
KYB AGX adj. rear shocks
1988 camaro RS factory front/rear sway bars
(disconnected the front sway bar end links at track)
Poly bushings through out
Battery moved to rear
As much weight removed off the nose of the car as I could
Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials in rear
235/60-15 yoko avid st tires up front
Power trax locker in rear end when I had the 10 bolt, then a Detroit locker in rear end when I went to the ford 9"

Cole Curtis

Hmm ok. I guess I thought there might be some tricks on the road surface rather than the track, but guess it makes sense traction is traction no matter what kind of road your working with. Do you like the nittos? Been looking to get a pair. And how long did your 10 bolt last? Little bit worried about mine and drag radials.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

True streets arent prepped at all. Therefore not as much grip. What works best at track will not work on street. You have to control power. The rest is all big tire bias slicks. Fastest cars on the street in drag format are big tire bias ply slicks

Suspension and power management are also important but have to have slicks

Lower powered cars in general may be ok on a drag radial type tire.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yeah very true. You are not going to get the same level of traction on the street as you do at the track... But same rules apply really. If it works a the track is going to do the best it can on the street.

My 10 bolt rear did not last long once I got the traction sorted out, but we are also talking mid 11 second car too.

The Nitto is the best street use drag radial.. The M/Ts will hook better, no question about that, but the nitto's drive in rain, on street, etc almost like a std. sport tire and seems to last about 10-12K miles with no prob