UltRoadWarrior9

1986 IROC here. Currently 4th Gen diff and 2015 Corvette brakes in front and rear. I'm experiencing a rubbing of the rear rotors against the stationary rear calipers during turning...
The problem is in the original Auburn carrier that came with this 2002 SS Z28 axle. The pinion shaft holes have been wallowed out in the horizontal so there is about .090" in/out movement in the rotors/wheels. The clutches still work great...

What is best limited slip to replace this Auburn unit? I need a rebuildable carrier...

Eaton?
Torsen?

Where are the rebuild kits sold?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Weird that rear came with an auburn. Most of that year should have had the zexel torsen diff. Get one of those

big gear head

Yea, it should have had the Torsen. The axle end play isn't coming from the holes for the cross shaft. The axle end play is coming from the worn cones. I would recommend the Eaton Truetrac for your application.


Your best option (but expensive) is to replace the whole rear end with a 9 inch with full floating axles. This would eliminate all of your brake problems.

UltRoadWarrior9

Alot of the axle end play is coming from the wallowed out hole. I saw it for myself, after I took the rear cover off. Here's a pic I'd posted when I had the rear apart and after I had to replace the broken pinion shaft bolt.

UltRoadWarrior9

As for the diff I purchased from ebay:
"93 02 Camaro Firebird 10 Bolt Auburn Posi Disc Brake Rear end 7.5" 3.23 SLP AAM"

big gear head

You might be getting a little axle end play from the holes, but most of it is coming from the worn cones.


This rear end is a '93 to '97. In '98 they started putting the Torsen in them. It's also not a SLP, because SLP put the Torsen in theirs too.


The Truetrac will work well for what you are doing. Be sure to get bearings and shims with it so that you can reset the backlash and bearing preload when you install it.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Typical used car parts seller; slid all the weasel-words in there to fool the uninformed and take advantage of them. Damn shame there's people like that in the world.

What you've got is a 93-97 Auburn piece of dog droppings. 98-2002 would have got the Torsen so it's not either of those things. (of course he didn't SAY "Torsen", your mind just filled it in somehow... that's the magic of weasel-words) SLP did in fact use the "high-perf" Auburn for some of the earlier 4th gens, but it's still an Auburn, regardless of the nice attractive "SLP" in the ad copy. AAM isn't connected to the carrier AFAIK.

Chalk it up to experience and consider yourself wiser now; when stuff like that happened to me back before I got so crusty, I used to just write it off as an installment payment on my overdue dumbass tax. Throw it in the trash and buy something else... something that DOESN'T say "Auburn" in on over around or near ANYWHERE ANYTHING IN ANY MANNER WAY SHAPE OR FORM about it.

And of course, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS LOOK INSIDE the cover of a used rear BEFORE you buy it, so that there are no such surprises.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

98 had an Auburn. Torsen optional.
99-02 had a standard Torsen. HD Auburn optional as an SLP option.
A pretty good example of how "upgrades" are marketing.

While the seller may have told the truth on the year (I don't know / care whether that particular one is an "HD" Auburn, it doesn't change the condition of it.

As for a windowed bolt-hole, that's a poor way for a bolt used in shear to positively retain a pin. Just like a roll-pin, the bigger the gap, the more likely the retaining device will fail. Regardless, you have worn junk.

Which doesn't change the axle play. Some is normal. Shimming of the caliper brackets to center the rotor in the pads will help somewhat. Ideally, a floating caliper takes care of the issue, or what Freddie suggested really takes care of the issue.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I went with the Eaton Posi. = clutch pack/rebuildable, for my DD
but if I had your power I also might have gone with this, and is what "big gear head" is suggesting.=
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...trac/index.htm

UltRoadWarrior9

The wallowed out pinion shaft hole is due to the worn out Auburn cones?
So in reality, when this car is rolling around corners, there's probably alot more endplay in the axles than I'm seeing when I do a static push/pull on the rear wheels when the car is on the lift which is about +.090", probably more under load.

So Auburn is out of the equation for a replacement 7.5" diff carrier. Been looking at Eaton models. Thanks for the pointers.

This will be my last part to buy this year for the IROC. I had a choice of a weatherstripping kit or fixing this issue with the C7 brakes. The grinding on slow turns is rubbing my nerves, so I chose metal over rubber.

big gear head

No, the worn holes are not due to the cones being worn. These are 2 completely separate problems. The holes being worn is not a common problem and I'm not sure why yours is in this condition. Your worn holes are probably causing about .010 to .015 inch of the axle end play, but the rest of it is from the worn cones.


Worn cones is common to all cone type differentials such as the Auburn and Borg Warner. This is also a problem with LSDs with clutch plates, but cone type differentials will wear quicker and increase the axle end play much more. The clutch plate differentials can be rebuilt to eliminate axle end play, and the Borg Warner can be reconditioned once, but the Auburn is scrap metal when it wears. Even if yours didn't have worn cross shaft holes it would still be scrap for your application.

UltRoadWarrior9

I've done more research and am almost ready to purchase the Eaton TrueTrac, but have a question:

It appears to be a sealed unit and I don't see C-clips described in the owners manual. How are the axles retained?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

C-clips

UltRoadWarrior9

Sofa, thanks for responding. But where do they go in, do you have any pics?

This is the only pic Summit & Jeg's shows:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-912a317
http://www.jegs.com/i/Detroit+TrueTr...2A317/10002/-1

I don't see any place for accessing the C-Clips..

big gear head

There is a block in the differential that gets removed to access the c clips. It will come with instructions on how to install it.