someone972

iTrader: (2)

I've been acquiring the tools I need to rebuild my transmission, and am getting pretty close to having everything. So now I need to actually figure out what kit/converter I'll be getting. Probuilt seems very highly recommended so I figure I'll go with one of theirs, but I'm not clear enough on the differences between kits to know which one is best for my application.

The transmission in question is a 91 core with 150,000ish miles on it. Still shifts through all of the gears but slips between shifts, sometimes has hard shifting, occasionally feels like it's got some tie-up going on, and just overall needs refreshed. It's going in a daily driver with pretty much stock 350, although if I can build the transmission to handle future upgrades it would be nice. I don't foresee going over 500hp, and likely won't even get close to that, but if the transmission can handle that much or more I should be set. I spend most of my time in the 1-2.5K RPM range except for the occasional "spirited" driving.

I'm going to pick up a new torque converter as well, so any suggestions on that would also be welcome. As stated above, it's a daily driver that spends most of it's time in the lower rpm range, so don't need any crazy high stall or anything. Pulling away from a stop-light would be more important than drag racing in this case, if one had to be sacrificed for the other.

It looks like I have a choice between heavy duty, street/strip, pro street, and road racing kits. I'd love to hear opinions on which one might be good for me. If you can, please include why one kit would be better than the others in your answer; I'm still new to the 700r4 world, so I'm unfamiliar with what makes one kit perform differently than another.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Semi-daily bump. Any opinions welcome, or if you have one of these kits any comments on how it feels is also helpful!

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The heavy duty kit is mostly for towing, ambulances, pick up trucks, etc.

The Street/Strip is what most of us have. I've had this for a little over 8 years now.

The Pro Street is out of our range. The Street/Strip has the perfect combination of performance and easily livable daily driver manners. The Pro Street is going to be an extreme version of everything. If I were running 11 seconds or quicker, I'd be looking at the Pro Street.

Best bet is to just ask Dana himself. He's a member here. Username is Pro Built Automatics. Or simply give him a call in the evening.

Pro Built Automatics

You will need the Street/Strip rebuild kit and the two options (since yours is slipping on the 1-2 shift) the oem reverse/input drum option and the pre-drilled separator plate. The Pro Street is almost identical to the Street/Strip, but has the steel re-enforcement sleeve for the input drum and a 9 clutch 3-4 setup instead of the 8 for the Street/Strip. This is to handle more torque and horsepower. Part throttle characteristics are the same.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

So what exactly is the reverse/input drum option? Is it the whole drum assembly? I'm fine with getting it, but out of curiosity why is it needed? Is it because the 1-2 shift is controlled by the large band around the reverse/input drum?

Also, what exactly is the difference between the Raybestos and the Modified Z-Pak options? I tried looking it up and it seems like they are pretty much interchangeable?

Thanks both of you for the feedback.

Pro Built Automatics

If you start to lose the 1-2 shift, the reverse/input drum is going away and so is the 2-4 band. Once in awhile the drum will still be ok, but if it is slipping at high rpms then it will be dished. The Modified Z-Pak is from Raybestos. The other clutches are Borg Warner Hi-Energy's. My preference is the BW Hi-E's.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Ah right, my mistake. It isn't slipping too bad on 1-2, mostly it's 3-4 shift that's the really noticeable one. But I think I'll probably go with the new input drum anyway; don't want to find out that I need one halfway through a rebuild. So the steel reinforcement sleeve is only needed for high-HP applications, and I should be fine without it then?

As far as tools needed, I think I have pretty much all of the specialty tools. I've got the installer/resizer for the input shaft teflon seals, but don't have the stator(?) seal installer/resizer (or whatever the other set of teflon seals are for, still having a hard time remembering the name of all the parts). Will I need that one as well? In some of the rebuild materials I've seen, those seals have the cut in them but I'm not sure what comes in the kit.

Pro Built Automatics

If the 1-2 shift is still good, then the drum will be good. If the transmission is apart it will be easy to tell. If the band is in good shape, so will the drum. The 2-3 shift is always the problem here and is addressed in the rebuild kit. You do not need any special tools for the sealing rings in my kit. That alone will save you a lot of money. The re-enforcement steel sleeve is a preventative measure. On a 4WD it is really necessary.

IROC ZELLER

Hi guys. I have a similar question. My application would be pretty much identical to someone972's:
" I don't foresee going over 500hp, and likely won't even get close to that, but if the transmission can handle that much or more I should be set. I spend most of my time in the 1-2.5K RPM range except for the occasional 'spirited' driving."
I am looking into putting in a GM ZZ4 350 355HP. I want to make sure my 700r4 can handle it. Can anyone suggest a kit for me?

Ron U.S.M.C.

Does the Street/Strip kit come with the Corvette servo ?
I love my servo.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Yep, sure does. I just ordered the street/strip kit with the input/reverse drum and pre-drilled separator plate just for good measure. Input drum might be fine on mine, but it's my daily so I want to minimize downtime if possible. Can always sell the old one.

I've heard that the probuilt kits are very highly viewed, but I'm afraid that's as far as my knowledge goes. Someone else might have opinions, but try searching the forum too if you haven't. I've found using google with 'site:thirdgen.org' sometimes brings up better results.

I need to get a new torque converter now. Might make a new thread if no replies come in here, but I'd like some advice on that as well. I'll probably go with one of the Vigilante converters, although I'm not 100% sure yet. Stall speed is my main concern, this is a primarily daily-driven car, with a stock 350 TPI, so from what I've read I'm looking for something in the 2200-2800ish range? Don't want to be revving up too high when just regular driving around town, and I tend to be fairly light on the throttle.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I would pick up a Circle D converter. Either their 1C or 2C model. The 1C is a 3000 RPM stall. The 2C is a 3200 RPM stall.

http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx

I know what you're thinking. That's way too high! But torque converters have gotten better over the last 15 years. Streetability is better than ever. Torque converters are sort of like window tint. For somebody who has never had either item, they're always worried it will be too much. The windows will be too dark. The stall will be too high......And then about 4 days later they wish they'd gone with darker tint and wish they went for one stall speed higher.

The 1C is good for a 100% stock F-body. It will be pretty much invisible unless you're hard on the gas. People riding in your car won't even know you have it. It'll make a difference. But I have a feeling you'll be wishing you had gone for more. I've never heard of a single person who said their 1C was too much stall and wanted less. The 2C should get rid of that feeling of wishing you'd gone for more.

If you're just putt putting around town, a stock converter will shift at about 1800 and drop down to 1500 RPM. With a 3000 stall you'll be around 2000 RPM and then dropping down to 1700 RPM. The car will idle away from a stop sign no different than a stock converter. It's only when you're spirited on the gas pedal that they are noticeable. Driving up a steep hill. Towing something. Same thing if you have 2.77 axle instead of 3.23 axle. The 2.77 by virtue of requiring more gas pedal will show a slight increase in converter feel. The guys with 3.73 gears can get away with higher stall speeds with less gas pedal simply because the car is under less load at all times.

I've driven 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies with 2.77, 3.27, 3.45, and 3.73 axles. My favorites are the 3.27 and 3.45...... 3.73 rev too high on the highway for me. My wife had a Vigilante 2800 in her LT1. And she loved it from the day she drove it home from the shop. Never regretted it and it was her favorite mod. She did have 3.73 gears though. One thing to remember about Vigilante is that they are known to underrate their stall speeds. Her 2800 actually stalled to 3200 RPM. Most Vigilante owners will tell you the same thing. She said she never wished she had gone for more stall. And she never wished she went with less.

I don't think you'll be happy with a 2200-2500 stall. There's just not enough difference to warrant the time and money involved with the swap.

Yank 3600 stall cruising around town.....You need to skip to 1 minute in for the video to start. But you'll see that the person driving goes around 2500 RPM while accelerating. But at the 2:40 mark, they're only doing 2200 RPM while accelerating. The end of the video shows much the same. If a 3600 stall can accelerate without going past 2200 RPM, a 3000 or 3200 stall will even easier to keep the revs down.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Some good info, thanks! Gives me a lot to think about, I'll have to watch some more videos to compare the different stalls a bit more.

Pro Built Automatics

I am a distributor for Circle D. If you need one let me know.