seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

OK, so I had a bearing noise in the transmission. Took it to a local transmission shop for the rebuild. When I went to pick it up, the guy said the clutch was bad, and they'd replaced it.

This was surprising to me, as my Centerforce Clutch Kit only has 20,000 miles on it, and I don't drive it hard. I was also really pissed that he'd replaced it without authorization, but that's not relevant to this conversation. Here's the clutch kit:

http://www.centerforce.com/products/...rce-i-full-kit

It turns out he'd put a Veleo clutch kit in it, pissing me off even further, because if the clutch needed replacing, I would have put something of better quality in it than the Veleo stock replacement.

I had to fight like hell to get my "bad" clutch back from them, but eventually, I got the disc and pressure plate back. They said they couldn't find the release bearing.

So, of course, there have been a ton of problems, one of which is the release bearing they put in is already making a terrible grinding sound when you leave it in neutral, with your foot off the clutch pedal, and there are a bunch of shifting problems which everyone I've shown it to thinks is because the clutch is coming in right at the top, and the release bearing is failing. I tried to work it out with the shop, but they essentially told me to go **** myself, so I called my credit card company and filed a dispute.

I spoke to a tech guy at Centerforce, and sent him pics of the clutch disk and pressure plate. He said there appeared to be nothing wrong with them, and they were about 1/3 worn. Everyone else I've shown it to agrees with him.

Pics here: http://s822.photobucket.com/user/sea...?sort=3&page=1

So, while he wouldn't talk to me before, after the credit card company told him they were inclined to refund me the full amount, the owner of the transmission company suddenly wants to work things out.

I told him I wasn't comfortable with his having my car again, but I would have my guy pull the transmission, and give it to him to be fixed. I am also giving him back his clutch kit, for a full refund (parts, and labor).

I'm going to put my Centerforce clutch back in. I have two questions on that.

1). A new disk is 107.95 from Summit. Should I go ahead and put a new disk in it, or reuse the perfectly-functioning one I have. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the clutch when I took it in. The only reason the car went in was because, while trying to locate a vibration, we put the car up on a lift and ran it. There was a serious bearing howl that was coming right from the middle of the transmission, so I wanted to get it fixed before it went out and did serious damage.

2). Should I put a Centerforce release bearing in it, or is there a better choice?

My final question is about the flywheel. I have several vibration problems, one of which is in the engine. You can slowly rev it up in neutral, and between 1,900 and 2,300 rpm, there is a noticeable vibration. You can feel it if you put your hand on the door sill.

At first, I thought it was the harmonic balancer, but I replaced it, and the vibration remained unchanged.

When we do the clutch, we have to pull the flywheel. When the transmission shop replaced the clutch, they had the flywheel resurfaced, but did not put in a corresponding shim, which is why the clutch comes in at the top. We have to find out what the stock flywheel thickness is supposed to be, then measure my flywheel to find out how much has been taken off so we can use the correct shim.

While the flywheel is off, I thought it would be a good idea to have the flywheel checked for balance to see if it might be the cause of the vibration. No one I've talked to seems to know how to do that. Can anyone tell me how/where to have a flywheel checked for balance?

midias

Personally I would put in a new disk but I cant see the pictures you posted at work because photobucket is blocked. I would also make sure the pressure plate is at least cleaned and maybe sanded down.

I love hays self aligning throwout bearings about $70.

Maybe have a machine shop check the flywheel or at least make the shop do it and have some sort of written proof they did.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Personally I would let your Credit Card issue you the full refund and then either do the work yourself of find a trustworthy shop (good luck , they ARE out there , but in "Hen's teeth" scarcity) !

This shop has already boned you once and you wannt give them a second chance to screw you again ?

Isn't the textbook definition of insanity to keep repeating the exact same action and expecting a different result each time ?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

I'm not letting my car anywhere near that shop again.

The credit card company agrees, but they make a differentiation between different parts of the job. When it comes to the clutch kit they unnecessarily sold me, and the installation not being done properly, the credit card company agreed that I should have another shop reinstall my original clutch, and shim it properly so the pedal isn't coming in right at the top. They will deduct the charges for that from what they are holding in escrow between me and the original transmission shop, and refund me what the other shop charged me for the clutch kit they put in.

When it comes to the notchy shifting, often not going into 1st gear or reverse on startup, occasional slight scraping of synchronizers when going into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th gears, massive noise when downshifting into 4th, 3rd, or 2nd, and vibrating at 70mph (that last one may, or may not be related to the transmission rebuild), the credit card company says that falls under the one-year warranty on the rebuild. They told the vendor he had to work it out with me, or they would give me a full refund. They told me I had to give him the opportunity to repair the transmission under warranty, or they would only refund me the charges related to the clutch.

I reluctantly agreed, but only on the condition that he post a bond with the credit card company covering the removal and installation of the transmission. My point was, if I have the new transmission shop remove it, give it to the first shop to give them the opportunity to fix the transmission under warranty, they have the new shop put it back in, and it's no good, I have to pay for another removal and reinstallation of the transmission to get it right. They agreed.

If I don't give them the opportunity to repair the transmission under warranty, the credit card company will not rule in my favor on the transmission repair; only the clutch, so I have no choice.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

The thing is, I really don't want to get bogged down in the details of the drama with the shop. What I really need are answers to the questions I asked in the original post.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Here are some pics.

midias

I got $20 that says they installed the throwout bearing wrong

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I hope so. I've noticed that as the noise from the release bearing gets worse, the poor shifting problems get worse, too.

I'd actually be happy to find it was something so simple.

Could you see the pics I posted?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Video of clutch disk and pressure plate I made for the credit card people:

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Video of transmission noises:

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Video of release bearing noises:

midias

I see some glazing on the on the pressure plate which is normal, I would carefully sand it with something like some 120 grit paper. Not to take any material off just to clean the surface. After that I would clean with acetone or similar and reinstall.

midias

I would ask to be there when they take the trans out and see if they put the bearing in wrong. Then before the put the trans back in I would check the input shaft for end or thrust play should be none or

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Video of clutch coming in at the top:

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Video of vibration:

RBob

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post4166667

RBob.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, man, that's a very informative thread. My engine vibration is just as he described, except at a different rpm.

The other difference is, my engine vibration didn't start when I changed clutches. I had 10,000 miles, or more on my Centerforce clutch kit before it started.

Since my Centerforce clutch disk and pressure plate are out of the car, and the Veleo clutch disk and pressure plate are in, and the engine vibration is unchanged, I'd think that pretty much eliminates clutch.

When the transmission is out, the plan is to run the car with just the flywheel, and see if it vibrates.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

OK, One thing in that thread has me puzzled:

Are L03s externally balanced?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...model/firebird

Hola?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

RBob.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Gracias, Senor

midias

That is the one, I installed it after my SPEC one started making a ton of noise after 3k miles

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

That's only 10 bucks more than the Centerforce release bearing. Seems like a good investment.

midias

They are a holley product and IIRC they are made in the USA

https://www.holley.com/products/driv...g/parts/70-201

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

That makes it even better. I'm always willing to pay a bit more for American-made.

What did you think of the clutch disk?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

RBob,

If you don't mind, I have a few more questions.

First, my engine vibration started about 10,000 miles ago. Is it possible that the flywheel threw off a weight? Is there another way the flywheel could have gone out of balance.

Are all 1 piece rear main seal SBCs like this?

Also, I don't understand what the actual process is of adding/removing weights, or even where to get them.

Since the flywheel in the car has been resurfaced, and I have no idea how much was taken off, and it's vibrating, anyway, I've wondered whether it wouldn't just be simpler to get another flywheel.

This ZOOM flywheel, is less than a hundred bucks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-50-6527/reviews

Am I correct in understanding, though, that this flywheel would only be rough balanced, and would still need balancing using the procedure outlined in the service manual?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If it did toss a weight it would be bouncing around inside the bell housing. You'd probably know it.

Meaning that they are not neutral balanced, yes. Take a look at the flywheel flange on a 2 PC RMS crank. It has a chunk of iron cast/forged as part of the crank, this makes the engine a fully internally balanced engine. The flywheel being neutral balanced.

Now look at the flywheel flange on a 1 PC RMS crank. It is completely round so that the seal can go over the end of the crank. Still needing to be balanced that chunk of iron is now moved to the flywheel. The flywheel is not neutral balanced. Although the 1 PC RMS engines are still considered to be "internally balanced" engines.

The weights are round slugs that go into the holes around the outside edge. Take a look at the Zoom flywheel. There are six bolt locations to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel. Then between each mounting bolt are two open holes. That is where the weights go.

I have no idea.

Again, I don't know how good the balance will be.

RBob.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If the only vibration you're chasing is the one at 70mph, a focus on driveline vibration would be in order. Lots of threads on here about it. Too high a trans. mount, sunken engine mounts (saw you replaced yours) and other details are involved.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

New trans mount
New motor mounts
LS1 driveshaft with new Spicer 4130 U-joints balanced to 80 mph
Driveshaft balanced to 150 mph
All new bearings in rearend
All new bearings in transmission

Engine vibration is from 1,900-2,300 rpm

At 70 mph in 5th gear, the car is doing 2,200 rpm

Prior to replacing motor mounts and rebuilding rearend, the vibration started at 70, and got progressively worse as you went faster. Now, it starts at about 65 mph, is at it's worst at 70, and is gone by 75.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If the problem is gone in 3rd and 4th gears at the same rpms, it's not engine vibration.
Given the new engine mounts, shim the crossmember down and see if there's improvement.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Anyone ask about driveline angle? that will cause a vibration too....

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Vibrates in 4th gear at 40-45 mph (2,200 rpm) and 3rd gear at 2,200, too. Don't notice it in 1st, or 2nd.

Driveline angles checked multiple times. Perfect.
LCAs, UCAs, panhard bar and torque arm pulled off the car, and bushings checked (they are all poly). All good.
Front and rear tires replaced.
Wheels checked for true.

I have been chasing this driveline vibration for years. At one point, I got so disgusted with it I parked the car for 7 years.

I have come to believe I actually had several vibration problems. Prior to replacing the bearings in the rearend, in 5th gear, the vibration would start at 65, and keep getting worse and worse as you went faster and faster. You could push the clutch in/put it in neutral; even shut the engine off, and the vibration continued unchanged.

After going through the rearend, the vibration still starts at 65, peaks at 70, but tapers off after 75. Push in the clutch while running at 70, throw it in neutral, or shut the engine off, and the vibration abates. Clearly, replacing the bearings in the rearend eliminated one of my vibration problems.

Chasing this vibration/these vibrations has been the most disgusting, demoralizing vehicle ownership experience of my life. What I'm trying to do with this thread is focus on the clutch issue. Since the process of resolving it gives me access to the flywheel, and the flywheel is one of the possible causes of the engine vibration, I want to take advantage of having access to it to see if the flywheel is causing the engine vibration.

If it's not, I'll start a vibration thread after the clutch issue is resolved.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

RBob, can you help me a bit more, please?

I emailed the pics and videos to tech support at Centerforce. Here is what he said:

"Hello Sean,

From your photos and videos, the weights appear to be running off center which is typically from an out of balance condition.

From viewing the picture it looks like the throw out bearing might have been barely contacting the centrifugal weights. To prevent the weights from oscillating, you must use the proper pressure plate shoulder bolts and ensure the pressure plate and flywheel are balanced, our pressure plates are balanced to a Detroit specification.

From viewing the pictures I cannot determine whether the weights move freely. You can check this yourself by moving the weights side to side, the weights should slide freely or we can test whether the weights move freely, however for us to perform the test this we would need the clutch returned for evaluation.

Other than the weights being slightly off center the wear on the friction surface looks good but there is slightly more wear on the diaphragm fingers than normal for the amount of miles on this clutch. From what I can tell from viewing the pictures and videos, this clutch and pressure plate do not appear to be in need of replacement, although I would strongly suggest you look into the vibration problems.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions."


I called him today, but he only had a second to talk, and I'm still not really clear on much of what he said.

Also, he said Centerforce flywheels are offset-balanced to "23.4 inch/ounces".

I called a machine shop and asked if he could balance my flywheel to that spec. He didn't understand what I meant.

Did I get something wrong?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Hola?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

All that means is that the flywheel is offset balanced so that 1 inch from the crank center line it has 23.4 ounces of weight. The part not stated is where this weight is relative to TDC #1. But my guess is that the additional weight is at or near TDC #1 as that is where it is on a 2-PC RMS crank.

Since the weight isn't going to be cast in 1" from the centerline (it can't be), it will be further out. So say the weight is 5" from the crank centerline on the flywheel. This means that the weight needs to be 4.68 ounces (23.4 / 5).

RBob.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the help.

Do you think that 23.4 in/oz specification is for Centerforce flywheels, only, or is it universal? I looked in my factory service manual, but it doesn't say.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome.

Wouldn't this have to be a GM spec? They are the ones that designed the 1 PC RMS crank and offset balance flywheel/flexplate. Any other balance would cause engine vibrations.

If you have an OEM flywheel or flexplate ask a balance shop to measure it.

RBob.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

My thinking is, the Centerforce flywheel weighs 30lbs, while the factory one, which I have, weighs 16+. I'm wondering whether the difference in flywheel weights means a difference in the offset balance specification.

The transmission is coming out in a day, or two, and the flywheel will be going out to be balanced, but so far, every machine shop I've talked to acts like they don't know what the hell I'm talking about.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

No.

Because the machine does this work/math for them. They don't need to understand it from an engineering standpoint.

RBob.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE:

Sometimes, I just want to punch somebody in the face ....

So, the deal brokered with the credit card company is Shop #2 will pull the transmission out of the car and deliver it to Shop #1 (the guys who rebuilt the transmission). Shop #1 will go through the transmission and return it to Shop #2, who will reinstall it.

Shop #2 will also pull the Veleo clutch disk, pressure plate and release bearing Shop #1 installed off and return it to them. Shop #2 will reinstall my Centerforce clutch disk and pressure plate, and a new release bearing.

The credit card company will refund me 360.00 for what Shop #1 charged me in parts and labor for the Veleo clutch they installed, and 55.00 to replace the Centerforce release bearing they took off my car and threw out.

The credit card company will also pay Shop #2 200.00 to pull and reinstall the transmission, and pull the Veleo clutch off and reinstall my Centerforce clutch.

Once I drive the car and am satisfied that the transmission is shifting properly, the credit card company will pay Shop #1 the remaining 645.00 of the 1,260.00 they originally charged me.

While the transmission is out of the car, I will pay Shop #2 to pull the flywheel off the car and have the balance checked. At that point, I'll decide whether to have the flywheel resurfaced, or replace it.

Make sense?

To even further complicate matters, my other car, a Jeep Cherokee is having big problems, too. I overheated it, and as those Jeep 4.0s always do, it got hurt. Most likely it's a cracked head. It happened to me once before about 80,000 miles ago. It's throwing constant misfire codes on the #2 cylinder, and when we ran a camera down into #2, it had about 1/4" of water on top of the piston. If it's not the head, it's either a cracked block, or a blown head gasket. Obviously, I'm rooting for the blown head gasket, but that's probably the least likely possibility.

So, I'm sitting there with two hurt cars, and nothing else to drive. The clutch problems with the Firebird are getting progressively worse, but the Jeep has an intermittent dead skip that is also getting worse, and if the coolant in #2 leaks past the rings, I end up with water in the oil and possibly toasted bearings, crank and rods.

The owner of Shop #2 says no problem. I should drive the Firebird, he'll get the Jeep in the shop the next day, pull the head, and we'll see where we are. If it's just the head gasket, he'll have it fixed in a day. If it's the head, it'll take a few days to get one, and if it's the block, I can have a reman engine here in a week.

Great. Shop #2 has done work for me before. The owner is kinda flakey, but the work has always been good, at a fair price, done in a reasonable timeframe.

So, I drove the Firebird, and immediately had to begin chasing the owner of Shop #2 to get my Jeep in the shop and start working on it. He never kept a single one of his many promises to get it in the shop "right away". For more than 2 weeks, all I got was excuse after excuse, but nothing got done on the Jeep. Each time I got another excuse, I had to grit my teeth and keep my mouth shut. The deal with the credit card company over the Firebird's transmission includes Shop #2, and if I tell him to go **** himself, the deal will be blown and I'll have to start all over.

Meanwhile, the Firebird was getting worse and worse. Finally, it got so bad that when it's sitting still idling in neutral, aside from the grinding noise the release bearing has been making, there is now this intense shaking. I take it to Shop #2, where the guy says "Well, you can't drive it like that!!!"

I somehow manage to restrain myself from tearing his face off while he lays out his new plan. Despite the fact that he had declared my Jeep "undriveable" two weeks before, he now says I will drive the Jeep, and he will pull the Firebird in the shop first thing the next morning and pull that transmission right out! (sound familiar?)

That was 12 days ago, and of course, I've been chasing him ever since, driving my Jeep that is running worse and worse.

So, this afternoon I'm making my daily pleading stop at Shop #2 and Holy ****, there's my Firebird up on the rack!!!! I walk in the shop and Double Holy ****, the transmission is out of the car!!!!!!!!!!

Lurch, the owner's 6'10", not-too-bright stepson with the wandering eye, and the tattoo of Jesus on his left shoulder that looks just like Justin Bieber, except with long hair and a crown of thorns (Note To Self: NEVER go to a Millennial tattoo artist ... especially with a Groupon) giggles maniacally, wipes the drool off of the side of his mouth with a shop rag that appears to have recently been used to mop up a gallon, or so of 90 weight and says "You're not gunna believe this!"

Now, it's been my experience that when your car is spread out all over a shop, and the guy working on it says "You're not gunna believe this!", good things seldom come next. I whipped out the pint of Johnny Walker Red I keep in my cargo pants pocket for emergencies and cannonballed it. Eyes watering, I turned aside so as not to be rude and belched a plume of 300-proof fumes into the open window of the Cadillac CTS I was standing next to. The potted rhododendron sitting in the passenger seat immediately turned brown and shed all of it's leaves.

"Let's hear it." I gasped.

Lurch went on to tell me that the transmission bolts had all been in finger-tight, and there'd been a one-inch gap between the transmission and the bellhousing.

"So you're saying it was loose, they never tightened it down?"

Lurched giggled maniacally and said "Uhhhhh ... yup."

Right then, his step-dad, the owner walked up and said the transmission bolts being loose appears to have been the source of all the problems the car has been having, except for any that might crop up from my having driven the car so much with the transmission loose, of course.

I could feel the aneurysm in my prefrontal lobe getting ready to let go. throb, Throb, THROB!!!!

Somehow, I restrained myself. Finally, in a very soft voice, I asked him:

"So, if you went to take the transmission out, and you found the bolts loose, and the 1-inch gap between the transmission and the bellhousing, and you thought that might be causing all of the problems, did you tighten the transmission bolts up and take it down the road to see if all the problems were gone?"

He gave me a blank look for a moment; sort of like the look you get when you show a Donald Trump supporter actual facts, instead of made-up ones; then he said: "uhhhh ... sluh sleesa sluppa slish."

I pointed to the top plate he'd been holding in his right hand while trying to clean out some spinach left over from lunch that was wedged between the bicuspids with a gasket scraper. He quickly put it back in and said: "uhhhhh ..... no, we didn't think of that. Now that you mention it, though, it probably would've been a good idea."

"Hey Lurch!!!!" He yelled, "Next time, let's tighten the bolts up and test drive it before we yank the transmission out!!!"

Or at least, that what I think he said. When he said the "P" in "let's put", his plate came flying out and landed in a pan filled with Dexron II, several used oil filters, and a crumpled-up lottery ticket ..... the rest was kinda hard to understand. Lurch fished it out, handed it back, giggled maniacally and said: "Uhhhhhh .... OK."

I couldn't take any more and left.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

That's reddit quality.

I have actually had bellhousing bolts back off at the engine and cost me a torque converter. That's all I'm admitting right now.

It's going to work out, man.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your help

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

So, you're saying they enter the application data into the balancing machine and it automatically sets itself for the offset balance?

After talking to 6 machine shops and getting the same blank stare, I called the engineer at Centerforce back, and told him I must be doing something wrong, because nobody understood what I was talking about. He said this is a very common thing, that every 1-piece rear main seal SBC built after 1986 has a flywheel or a flex plate that is offset balanced to 23.4 in/oz, and he couldn't believe the machinists I'd spoken to didn't know that. He suggested I go to machine shops that build and balance racing engines.

I went to two of them today, and neither one of them had any idea of what I was talking about.

I just don't know what to do.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

ramble, ramble, ramble.

Machine shop guys over the last several decades are most commonly going to know:
A 383 is made to balance "like a 400."

They probabaly have needed to balance fewer 86-up engines. When they do get into balancing something, they balance to the existing flywheel / flexplate as part of the assembly. So they didn't have to know the imbalance.

Also, mass production parts have become more precisely made. And they have gotten cheaper. So a new crank is more commonly used instead of fixing up an old one, or offset grinding one etc. Frankly, if you want to build a one-off stroker build, it's going to be s a downright pain in the ***.

The Centerforce guys knowing their bums from a hole in the ground and the 100,000 miles on the clutch in my friend's vehicle make me think I'll drive up there to say hi the next time I need a clutch.

When I was chasing down a 153 tooth flywheel w/ 400 balance, I got the impression the ability to match part B to example A was do-able from multiple shops. It was still simpler to

• sell the neutral balance piece
• buy the properly balanced piece

and get the job done than chase machine work locally.

To streamline your process, see if when you speak to a shop, whether they can match a sample piece to a known-good balanced flywheel weight. Or just price new. Lots less B.S., no matter how you perceive the utility remaining in the old piece.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

OK, So here's an update. It ain't pretty.

If you'll remember, I'd disputed the charge for the transmission rebuild Mechanic #1 did with my credit card company. Part of that process involved getting a written opinion and estimate from another shop (Mechanic #2). I'd been pleading with him to get to my Firebird. When it reached a point of being completely undriveable, he finally agreed, promising he's get it up on the rack "tomorrow".

I chased him for 7 weeks to work on it. When he finally got the car up on the rack, he discovered the bolts holding the transmission in were loose, and there was a 1 to 1 1/2-inch gap between the transmission and the bellhousing. Shop #2 guy told me he believed the transmission had been slowly working itself looser and looser every time I pushed the clutch pedal in, which explained why the problems had been getting progressively worse.

For reasons I will never understand, instead of tightening the transmission bolts back up and test driving the car to see what effect that had on the problems, he went ahead and pulled the transmission.

And then ...... nothing.

It sat .... and sat ... and sat.

After pleading with him to fix the car virtually every day for over three weeks, I got a letter from my credit card company saying the deadline for the deal I'd negotiated to get my car fixed had expired, and my dispute of the transaction with Mechanic #1 had been denied. I was out $1,260!

I was not happy. I went over to shop #2 and demanded he put my car back together ... RIGHT THEN!. He was somewhat reluctant at first, but I persuaded him. Let's just say some days it pays to be 6'5", 280, and a former kinda badass.

I literally stood over him as he put it back together. Suddenly, he was wanting to fix it, asking if I wanted him to have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced, etc. I would have none of it, telling him I was done with him, and just wanted my car put back together as it had been when I left it with him.

After I got the car back from Mechanic #2, with the only changes being the transmission is now bolted securely to the bellhousing, and the pilot bearing has been replaced, the problems with the transmission are not nearly as bad, but are still there.

I was so disgusted with it I just parked the car and watched a lot of The Spice Channel. Then, something occurred to me.

Before, I couldn't make Mechanic#1 deliver on the 1 year warranty. Legally, when I disputed the charge with the credit card company and they sequestered the funds, Mechanic #1 had not been paid for his work. Once they got possession of my car, they could have put a mechanic's lien on it.

Since my dispute of the charge was denied, they've been paid in full. As long as I can prove I directed them to only perform warranty-work, they can't slap a lien on my car.

The first thing I needed to do was document the problems, so I made a video!


It's kinda long, but the description lists the time indexes of the problems, so you can jump right to them.

What do y'all think?

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Hola?