Hank Brote

I have a small problem with my car running warmer than I want and am considering buying one of these radiators. Does anyone have any experience with either and what kind of results did you get in lowering the running temp?

Thanks in advance. . . .



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Hank
87'IROC Z28
Hanks 87 IROC

MikeDwhoROCZImports

iTrader: (1)

One summer afternoon, I'm driving down the highway at about 110mph trying to get to the movie theatre on time. I look in my rearview and see a stream of smoke from behind my car. I look at my temp guage and it's pinned! I pull over to find out that my radiator cracked right down the side. The crack was big enough that you could pour water into it and when you'd turn the car on it'd empty out in seconds. Turned out that my thermostat broke, and didn't open up when it was supposed to. When it did, extremely hot water shot into the radiator and it expanded so quickly it nearly exploded.

I replaced my radiator with a griffen "nascar" aluminum radiator. I didn't get a custom Camaro one, I just got a universal fit one, but it is definatly the biggest one that could fit in the car (don't know the size off the top of my head, but it was twice as thick and a little taller. I had to do some mods to my car to squeeze it in). I also replaced my thermostat with a 160* one, and bought a Jet fan switch, which can be bought through either Summit or (cringe) Jegs. It's cheap and it turns the fans on at a reasonable temperature. While I was at it I also replaced all my cooling hoses with Goodyear Hi-Miler hoses.

This cooling setup is absolutely awesome. I can be sitting in traffic in 100* weather, or flooring it down the highway at 4000rpm and my car stays at about 170* constantly.

The BeCool looks like a nice piece too. I'm just highly recommending the Griffen from my personal experience. The quality is just awesome.

One thing I would say is, either way, get a Jet fan Switch (Jet's the company that make's it). The stock fan setting is rediculous ( I think it turns on at 220* or something, not sure off the top of my head), and this change in itself will make your car run cooler. Without changing this, you would never realize the full potential of a new radiator if you bought one.

Biochem

I hope to be able to give you results about the Griffen radiator later tomorrow. I have the stock one out now and it goes in tomorrow.

Tip: Do you use your AC? If it doesn't work and you know you'll never fix it, you can pull the AC condenser from in front of the radiator and that will help a lot.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

DARCOM

i have a becool in my Z it works great
does not go past 200 in the hot summertime.

check out my simple page at:
http://darcom.home.texas.net/

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388 SuperRam, DFI, Vortech R trim ,N.O.S.,alki injection,
Dart sportmansII heads,50 pound injectors, Headman full headers
duel 3' exhaust,and Flowmasters, Ford nine inch with 370's
Ronal rims with Nitto drad raidals.

JoelOl75

I went with the Griffen too. The size is 19x31 and I had some problems fitting it into my car (Firebird). 1st I had to remove the rubber rests in the bottom of the support (I used thinner rubber and cut it to fit) and I had to tip it back a little so the electric fans were a no-go with the stock brackets so I made some aluminum brackets up for the fans, maf sensor, and upper support because the stocker wouldn't allow the hood to shut (and didn't fit the core anyway) I drilled 3 small holes through the top flange on the radiator (carefully!) and used self tappers to hold it all together.

KevinP92Z

I've got the Be Cool radiator. Fits perfect, works great.

Other than UPS putting something on the box and bending a few fins....

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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

vortech305

why spend 400 or more for those waste of alluminum. Go to your local Auto Zone and get a 3 core radiator for your application and your call will cool just as good as those 400 ones. I think it goes for $139.00 and lifetime warranty. I know a guy who has a 89 camaro with a 383 TPI producing 450 hp and runs that radiator and has or had no problems. enjoy and by the way ull save yourself $310.00

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92' camaro
New 305 block TPI conversion, Flat top pistons,Bore over .30 Forged parts all around,Edelbrock intake,ported plennum,ported corvette alluminum heads, accel cam,52mm throttle bodie, SLP runners Home aid cold air induction, Air foil,ford SVO 19lb injectors,fuel regulator,cloys timing chain, comp alluminum roller rocker arms and pushrods MSD 8.5 mm wires, bosch plattinum plugs, hypertech cap & rotor and coil, Edelbrock TES headers, free flowing catalytic converter and a 3 inch force II flowmaster exhaust system, and a 3 inch cutout,Zoom multi friction clutch, T-5 tranny,billenstien shocks&struts.
Soon to come!!!
Procharger system 12lbs o boost.
New paint job(hawaiin orchid purple)Cast alluminum ZR1 rims w/ 275 tires.
Favorite quote: "where ever u go, there u are"

Other car;
1971 plymouth Duster
Mods:340,edelbrock victor jr. intake, 650 4 barrel holley, heddman headers,40 series dual flowmasters, cold air intake,4:10 gears, just got a new paint job and cragar rims with 315 tires in the back.
:Yeah its not a chevy but damn how many 71' dusters have u seen in the streets.

KevinP92Z

Hey Vortec, don't take this as a flame, because the question of why to spend the extra money is valid, and everyone has different experiences and ideas. Some have good experiences with the less expensive radiators. This was discussed a few weeks ago with nearly the same praise for the cheaper radiators

My background is such that after a couple of replacement radiators (from AutoZone and HiLo's) failing, one at the end tank seams, the other in the tubes, I felt like the Lifetime warrenty was useless if it left me on the side of the road in 108+ degree weather like last summer, or worse with a messed up motor.

When taken to a shop for repair, something in or coating the radiator materials wasn't producing satisfactory solder joints, even after cleaning and fluxing.

Rather than risk my 383 on a cheap-$ss radiator again in our summer heat, I spent the money on one that was definately more durable.

Just my .03 (or $310 plus as you mentioned)


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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

[This message has been edited by KevinP92Z (edited April 13, 2001).]

cvpde37

I have to agree with Kevin on this one. I also went with the BeCool. It was a perfect fit and has kept the car nice and cool. I've had too many bad experiences with the cheaper radiators to take a chance on losing an engine. Just my opinion here.

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1984 Z28 350
Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience
My Web Page

JoelOl75

The griffin is less than $190 and will cool a hell o alot better than a 3 core copper brass, or a 4 core for that matter.

MikeDwhoROCZImports

iTrader: (1)

$400???? I paid under $200.

taliesian

I have to say autozone radiators suck, I had nothing but good things to say about them untill I bought a radiator from them, it has lasted less than 500 miles in my car, it does not fit right and I had to modify my fan shroud so it would fit.

Hank Brote

I don't have a stock car and the Autozone won't due the trick. I really want some before and afters like "My car used to run around 220 - 240 in traffic with the fans running and when I switched to the XXXXX I lowered my temps by 20*" I'm pretty sure some of you guys would have that information. This would really help in my selection of radiators Thanks again for the replies

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Hank
87'IROC Z28
Hanks 87 IROC

MikeDwhoROCZImports

iTrader: (1)

Hello??? I read my first post. My car used to run at like 220*, now it won't go above 170*, isn't a 50* temp change big enough???

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

I've road-raced with the stock, 3-row Modine, and Griffin 2-row (with 1" tubes) radiators, all in 90+ degree heat. With the stock rad, my coolant temp hit the red zone too easily, and I was just waiting for it to break (it didn't until the car was at the shop getting some work done). With the Modine, it kept the coolant temp down to 220 degrees in 100-degree heat, and was almost perfect for driving on the street and for drag-racing. The Griffin radiator kept my coolant temps down to 190 degrees maximum in 90-something degree heat on the track, and almost never goes above whatever temperature I have my fan kick on (usually 172-175) while drag-racing or driving around with the A/C cranked. While the AutoZone radiator will be fine for most cases, it doesn't have the cooling capacity of the big Griffin or BeCool radiators.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

88blkiroc

Does Griffin make a radiator for our cars that you dont have to **** with to get it in? also does it have the fitting for the trans and oil cooler on it?? Im not gona pay $550+ for a BeCool, but i need a new radiator and i dont want a cheapo Pep Boys one. My car is running over 220 anytime the temp outside is about 55 or when it has to sit for a long time idleing. Thanks

PROCHARGED89Z

How do you know its the radiator?My friend had the same problem,replaced the belt and it went away,belt was was out of usable range.Check your thermostat,replace it.See if pump is any good.I would check everthing before yopu dump big money on a radiator.And dont run 100% antifreeze.I get sickened when people are low on antifreeze and just dump more from a bottle.It is supposed to be mixed at least 50/50.or 75/25 for more cooling ability.Or even less coolent with water wetter.I ran a blower on my car for about 3 years and my car would run in the 175 range in boost all day and lower just cruising,with stock radiator,stock pump,and 160 thermostat with factory duel fans.Factory radiator will handle a lot more than you think,just everything has to up to par.Check your AC condensor if you still have one.Usually it gets filled with leaves and dirt and all kinds of sh*t,blow it out,wash it down etc,just make sure you are getting airflow threw it.

88blkiroc

cleaned out the condensor last year. replaced both fan motors. Replaced hoses. belt is tight. will repalce pump with a high flow unit when the new heads/cam go in. Put in 170* stat when heads/cam are done. getting JET fan switch. She still runs way too hot. it pushes redline on any day its over 90*.

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

I had done the same repairs/fixes to my IROC and it still ran hot too, hitting 220+ degrees anytime it was over 90 degrees, even on the highway. Turning on the A/C made it even worse, so that was when I knew I needed a new radiator. The 3-row Modine worked great for everything but road-racing. Autozone has a replacement radiator with metal endtanks for less than $200. It's just a hair thicker than the stock radiator but bolts right in with no changes needed.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

88blkiroc

how about any direct bolt in aluminum radiators for less then $400???

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

I got mine (a direct bolt-in too) for a little over $300, but the guy I bought mine from is no longer a distributor for Griffin since he wasn't selling enough. The "wholesale" price of this radiator is a little uner $300, so you can see how much mark-up is charged for them...

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

PROCHARGED89Z

Sorry guys<i also forgot to mention I dont have a AC condenser.this makes a big difference in airflow across the radiator.Also I removed all the plastic crap in the nose.I got alot of air flow across my radiator.One other thing to coonsider is hooking up the second fan in series to the main one to kick on at the same time.

Ken88GTA

All I can say is that since I've been using a BeCool and dual 12" Spal fans with my 355 in 90*+ and even with the A/C on in traffic my temp doesn't exceed 180*. Prior to these two improvements, sitting in traffic with the A/C off my temp would climb until I shut it down or got moving fast enough to cool it down. Would a less expensive setup work as well? I can't say, but I doubt it. Just my .02.

Ken

My90Iroc

For you guys who aren't getting the direct bolt ins from Be Cool or Griffen, what size "universal replacement" are you getting? I'm building a 383 for my Iroc and when I get around to putting it in, if I have a little extra cash, I think I'll spring for a good rad. Thanks

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'89 Camaro RS 6cyl. auto, don't know how much longer I'll have it.
'90 Iroc TPI 305, 5 spd B&M Ripper shifter, hopefully I can rob a bank or something and get more
www.geocities.com/irocnroll90

JoelOl75

19x31

Night Hawk

How about a replacement for an automatic transmission

enigma57

Hi, Hank Brote!

My son bought an '89 Camaro RS (with the 2.8 V6, T-5 and 7.5" non-posi 10-bolt rear end) 6 years ago, while he was in the Navy. Before he got out, he rebuilt all the suspension and installed Eibach V8 springs and KYB shocks. He's in college now and his Camaro finally crapped out with 150K on the odometer. He really loves that car, so I'm helping him redo it on weekends. We're swapping in a '96-up 350 Vortec truck engine with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 3310 Holley carb, HEI distributor, CompCams RV type roller cam and SLP headers and exhaust system. The T-5 is shot and we knew the rear wasn't far behind, so we're installing a '94-up T-56 tranny and an SLP Dana 44 posi rear with 4.09 gears.

V6 to V8 - what a headache! Motor mounts, throttle cable, engine accessory brackets and pulleys - you name it. Anyway, the V6 radiator is narrower than the V8. What we did was to use accessory brackets, pulleys, belts, water pump, etc. from an '85 305 Caprice (same as used on early '80's Camaros) (except for smog pump, which we tossed). We also tossed the small V6 radiator and single electric fan. We're using a Rad Pro heavy duty 4-tube desert cooler (brass) type radiator for a V8 application. My son ordered it from a magazine ad and it was shipped to him via U.P.S. We bought new rubber mount pads and the upper and lower fan shroud/upper radiator mount for an '83 305 Camaro from the local Chevy dealer. We'll use the early '80's clutch fan and a 170 degree thermostat. This should keep his 350 cool. I think the clutch fan and full radiator shroud are more efficient than unshrouded electric fans. We'll keep you posted on how this works. Hope this helps!

Best regards,

Harry

Camaro_hunter_d

now summit has universal 19by 31 becools for 269....

Ray87Z

Which water pump are you running Hank? I'd look into a Stewart Components Water pump if you don't already have a aftermarket one. I've got the stage1 pump ($69) and it is outperforming the heck out of the stock replacement style pumps I had before it. Warmest my car ever gets anymore is 220 and that is damn rare, have to be sitting completely still for a long *** time for it to get that high... It flat out doesn't hit any higher than 170 if I'm moving much at all. Last trip to Atl Dragway I made the temp never quite reached 200ish after 4-5 runs back to back while sitting in the staging lanes for 15-20 minutes before each run...

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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray

enigma57

Hi, JoelOl75!

That's a neat radiator installation! Hey, where did you get your export (strut tower to firewall) brace? We need one on our '89 RS.

Thanks,

Harry

[This message has been edited by enigma57 (edited April 20, 2001).]

Hank Brote

Hey Ray,

Haven't talked to you in awhile. Mine will get up to around 230* up at Atlanta and I just want to get it to stay around 170*. Your right the Stewart Pumps are good products, my machinest swears by them. I run an Edelbrock High FLow pump right now.
with my compression around 11:1 and the converter (with a cooler) it has pushed the operating temp up a bit more than I like. Depending on how I drive it I can hit some temps of 220 on the highway. This is reading with a scanner not the guage. I can bring it down by running the heater but as you know that's not much fun here in Atlanta. Haven't seen you on the GaFBA list yet Ray. You should meet some of the guys here in town. They run anywhere from the 9's to the 16's... Diverse group.

Thanks to everyone who has replied, it is appreciated.

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Hank
87'IROC Z28
Hanks 87 IROC

JoelOl75

Its made by edelbrock. I'm not sure where it came from because it was already on the car when i got it. Prolly summit or jegs...
Hope this helps...

enigma57

Thanks, Joel!

We'll check it out! (Sorry for typo - meant "neat", not "net").

Harry

Night Hawk

Do the Be Cool Rads have provisions for all the hardlines leadig from the tranny?

Ken88GTA

Yes, they do. They have different part #s depending on if it is a manual or auto trans.

Ken

Matt_91RSTPI

I also have a BeCool radiator and an Edelbrock Al. water pump. Both are certainly efficient.

However, I have a question for the others with Griffen/BeCool radiators. If you've been driving city and highway for around 15 mins in about 90* heat and then get stuck in _slow moving_ (like 5-10mph) traffic (which kicks off the fan) does you car still heat up?

The reason I'm asking is that mine does. I can still hit 230* if I've been drving for 20-30 mins and it's even moderately warm out. The only way to keep it cool is to manually turn on my fan when I'm moving that slow.

Matt

[This message has been edited by Matt_91RSTPI (edited April 26, 2001).]

JoelOl75

No, mine stays at 180-185 all the time. I'm sure if I tried in the hottest, most humid part of the summer and beating and letting off I could get around 190-195. But it really never moves much. Also the heater bypass hose runs directly into the bottom radiator hose (Since griffin doesn't include this connection on the rad)

Did you change the fan switch? This would cause the problems. Is your lower air deflector in good shape? This has alot to do with cooling at higher speeds. You shouldn't be having any probs.

Matt_91RSTPI

JoelOl75,

Yes, my air deflector is in good shape.

As to the fan switch question. No, I haven't changed the sensor in the cylinder head. Yes, I have added a supplemental adjustable temp relay (which is set to come on at 180*) as well as a full-manaul switch to the fan relay on the firewall.

The fan switch shouldn't even matter in this scenario (10 mph traffic in hot weather) since it will only turn the fan on when the car is moving below about 5mph or you have the AC on. Otherwise, the computer figures the car is moving and there is no longer a need for the fan.

Matt '91RS TPI

[This message has been edited by Matt_91RSTPI (edited April 27, 2001).]

Ken88GTA

Matt,

I have a BeCool, Stewart pump, and shrouded dual 12" Spal fans and I see very little temp fluctuation like you describe.

Since you have a '91, is you computer different from the late 80's computers? Because it is my understanding that the ECM turns the fan(s) on and off based on the signal it receives from the coolant temp sensor (or if A/C is on) and not vehicle speed. Seems like you would have to go a lot faster than 10mph to keep it cool without a fan running. Could be wrong, though .

Ken

[This message has been edited by Ken88GTA (edited April 27, 2001).]

JoelOl75

But if he added an override to kick the second fan on the first one will come on also so it's not the fans unless they are spinning backwards (wired?)

Also did you ever change the waterpump? If you have a serpentine belt you need a reverse rotation pump. Or if you went to v-belts you need the standard pump.

You prolly know all this but I can't think of anything else...

Bad radiator cap thats not holding pressure?

Matt_91RSTPI

Thanks for all the info guys.

My water pump is a reverse rotation serpentine Edelbrock Aluminum pump. The radiator cap is a brand new BeCool cap.

As was mentioned, 10 mph is not fast enough to flow enough air to keep the car cool. The computer does kick the fan on at set temps as well as when the AC is turned on. The problem is that if the AC is not on, the computer also kicks the fan OFF after a certain speed is measured. I believe this is where my problem stems from.

To circumvent the whole thing I have just wired a manual switch to the fan relay. I can now turn it on whenever I want no matter what speed I'm driving, AC or no AC. With the fan running I can keep the temps to 180*. I just wish it would be more automatic than me having to manually turn the fan on when I hit slow moving traffic.

Matt