Which 383 kit should I use?
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Car: 1985 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: Twin Turbo crate 350
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: still workin on that
Which 383 kit should I use?
I'm looking to build a 383 stroker, and I'm going to buy one of the crankshaft/piston/h-beam rod kits. I saw a Scat kit for $450 and I thought tht wasn't too bad. I want to buy an affordable qaulity product what brand should I choose.
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Car: Camaro RS
Engine: 415 c.i.
Transmission: Glide
Axle/Gears: 4.56
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
I got an Eagle rotating assembly for $750, it went over 500 passes in the mid ten's with no problem. I freshened up the engine for this season and got the same kit again and now how over 100 passes on this set up turning the same e.t.'s with no problems. Just dyno'd it at 491hp at the wheels with a 2 bolt main.
#3
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Car: 87 GTA
Engine: 350 Tune port
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
I got an Eagle rotating assembly for $750, it went over 500 passes in the mid ten's with no problem. I freshened up the engine for this season and got the same kit again and now how over 100 passes on this set up turning the same e.t.'s with no problems. Just dyno'd it at 491hp at the wheels with a 2 bolt main.
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Car: 87 GTA
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Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Make sure the balancer for the Eagle kit is sfi certified. I bought 2 Eagle cranks last year and my machineist wouldn't use them. The snout was .002 too small. There for no pressed fit for the balancer. sbc should be a pressed fit for the balancer. I called eagle direct when I got the second crank and it was in their spec. and they said they use a pioneer balancer with their kits. Only thing is the part number they gave me is NOT sfi certified. I switched to scat cranks, they measure right on the money.
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Car: 87 GTA
Engine: 350 Tune port
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
hey are you still running tpi or going to a carb setup
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#9
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Car: 1988 Camaro sport coup
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: TH400, promatic 2 shifter
Axle/Gears: Stock but soon to be 3.73 posi
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Just out of curiosity how much does stroking a 350 cost in machine shop costs alone??
#10
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Car: 85' Z28
Engine: 383 roller
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.70
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Depends on shops and locations. The only extra machining needed is some clearance for the rods. You also might have to run a small base circle cam depending on the specs of the cam. I ran a scat kit with kb forged pistons, I wouldn't use there bottom line kit as its designed for claimer series racing.
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Car: 91 rs
Engine: 383 290 cam aed carb
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ticking time bomb
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
I have found that cnc-motorsports seems to have the best prices on balanced rotating assemblies, I would look them up before you buy.I would not bother using h beam rods with a cast crank and hyper piston, scat makes an I beam rod that will handle way more power than the cast crank.
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Car: 1985 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: Twin Turbo crate 350
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Axle/Gears: still workin on that
#14
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.11, 9inch
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
northernautoparts.com
they had sum pretty gud deals on there and im pretty sure thats where my machine shop ordered from
my rotating assembly was 600 shiped
cast steel crank, sir ibeam rods, and hyper pistons
they had sum pretty gud deals on there and im pretty sure thats where my machine shop ordered from
my rotating assembly was 600 shiped
cast steel crank, sir ibeam rods, and hyper pistons
#15
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Car: 87 Z28
Engine: 89 tpi soon tpis big mouth & tubes
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:43
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
I got an Eagle rotating assembly for $750, it went over 500 passes in the mid ten's with no problem. I freshened up the engine for this season and got the same kit again and now how over 100 passes on this set up turning the same e.t.'s with no problems. Just dyno'd it at 491hp at the wheels with a 2 bolt main.
Wow that great for a two bolt block. What kind of trans you running & what rpm you leave at.
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Car: 1987 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: small block chevy stroked
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Im running a SCAT kit.Forged stroker crank,forged h beams in 6.0 inch,and mahle forged .060 pistons with free floater wrist pins.complete kit was about 1700 bucks.had to do alot of clearencing in the block for the rods and cranks but it was well worth it.Made 628 hp with 570 ft. lbs on the dyno,i shot it with a 500 hp pro fogger and it took the beating.Im completely satisfied so far
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
just askin here for all you stroker guys.
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
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Car: 1988 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: '96 T56, Hurst Shifter, Mech VSS
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
just askin here for all you stroker guys.
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
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Car: '86 Bird, 96 ImpalaSS, 98 C1500XCab
Engine: LG4, LT1, L31
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Tors, 4.88 spool, 3.73 Eaton
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
just askin here for all you stroker guys.
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
but someone told me that a stroker doesnt see a long life, due to the high stress on the piston/rod angles and that the bearings wear down FAST and that they dont see more than 50k miles, usually. not talking about the beating of drag racing but mostly street drivers.
is this true?
#21
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Car: 86 berlinetta 92rs gfx
Engine: 4 bolt 384 stroker
Transmission: th350 4000 stall manual/T brake
Axle/Gears: 87 iroc 9 bolt
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevsb_rotate.html look at these kits. i would add forged pistons no matter what u are trying to achieve.
stroker when built well, doesnt sacerfice as much reliability as some may claim. a well ballanced and light rotating assembley wont woller out the bores from excessive side load like some of the ford 347 strokers do.
generally an engine built for racing is gone through long before 50k miles.
and for premature bearing wear, i dont see why they would say that.
stroker when built well, doesnt sacerfice as much reliability as some may claim. a well ballanced and light rotating assembley wont woller out the bores from excessive side load like some of the ford 347 strokers do.
generally an engine built for racing is gone through long before 50k miles.
and for premature bearing wear, i dont see why they would say that.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 650HP
Transmission: TH 350
Axle/Gears: Posi Ford 9" 4.11
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
a 383 will last a good while on the street with no abnormal wear on the bearings. i had a circle track 383 pushing 700hp blow on me last year beacuse of oil starvation but that motor was regularly ran at 7500 rpm and the lowest it saw during a race was 6400
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Don't waste money on a balanced kit. Get it balanced yourself. I got the balanced kit when I built mine and while talking to my machine shop about my built he told me that he has had to rebalance several Eagle cranks. I bought crank, rods, pistons and rings as a balanced assy. I watched this guy check my balanced assy and it was way out. It cost me less to get rebalanced than I paid extra to have a balanced assy.
#25
Supreme Member
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Here is the 383 setup that I built:
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings
Scat I-beam forged rods(bushed)
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR)
Stock oil pump
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam
Pete Jackson gear drive
ATI Super Damper
2 pc timing cover
Chrome oil pan
AFR 195 Eliminators
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
SLP 1 3/4" headers
Mezeire electric water pump
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj
150 shot NOS
I'm sorry, I got carried away. I had the kit balanced at a local machine shop. I have a little over 500 miles already on this motor(PITA to tune) and I must say that I'm very happy with this combination. I can really tell the difference between this motor and the 305 I had in there before I set the rev limiter(Nitrous Mastermind) to 6500rpm and so far the T5 has survived.
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings
Scat I-beam forged rods(bushed)
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR)
Stock oil pump
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam
Pete Jackson gear drive
ATI Super Damper
2 pc timing cover
Chrome oil pan
AFR 195 Eliminators
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
SLP 1 3/4" headers
Mezeire electric water pump
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj
150 shot NOS
I'm sorry, I got carried away. I had the kit balanced at a local machine shop. I have a little over 500 miles already on this motor(PITA to tune) and I must say that I'm very happy with this combination. I can really tell the difference between this motor and the 305 I had in there before I set the rev limiter(Nitrous Mastermind) to 6500rpm and so far the T5 has survived.
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Car: 1988 Iroc
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: '96 T56, Hurst Shifter, Mech VSS
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
Here is the 383 setup that I built:
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings
Scat I-beam forged rods(bushed)
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR)
Stock oil pump
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam
Pete Jackson gear drive
ATI Super Damper
2 pc timing cover
Chrome oil pan
AFR 195 Eliminators
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
SLP 1 3/4" headers
Mezeire electric water pump
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj
150 shot NOS
I'm sorry, I got carried away. I had the kit balanced at a local machine shop. I have a little over 500 miles already on this motor(PITA to tune) and I must say that I'm very happy with this combination. I can really tell the difference between this motor and the 305 I had in there before I set the rev limiter(Nitrous Mastermind) to 6500rpm and so far the T5 has survived.
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings
Scat I-beam forged rods(bushed)
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR)
Stock oil pump
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam
Pete Jackson gear drive
ATI Super Damper
2 pc timing cover
Chrome oil pan
AFR 195 Eliminators
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
SLP 1 3/4" headers
Mezeire electric water pump
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj
150 shot NOS
I'm sorry, I got carried away. I had the kit balanced at a local machine shop. I have a little over 500 miles already on this motor(PITA to tune) and I must say that I'm very happy with this combination. I can really tell the difference between this motor and the 305 I had in there before I set the rev limiter(Nitrous Mastermind) to 6500rpm and so far the T5 has survived.
#27
Supreme Member
Re: Which 383 kit should I use?
I'm not sure on the power numbers but I'm guesstimating around 500hp at the flywheel w/o the NOS. I raced one of those Mustang GT500 during my break-in period(I couldn't help it, he started it!) and won by 2 car lengths. Imagine if I would've sprayed! The Mustang runs 12.9 in the qtr so mine is definitely a 12 sec car. As far as price goes:
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over, notched and rotating assy' bal - $750
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank - $459
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings - $106
Scat I-beam forged rods 6.0"(bushed) - $209
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR) - $450
Stock oil pump - $40
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam - $200
Pete Jackson gear drive - $250
ATI Super Damper - used $205
2 pc timing cover - $40
Chrome oil pan - $60
AFR 195 Eliminators - $1440
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms - $350
SLP 1 3/4" headers - $500 slightly used and coated
Mezeire electric water pump - $325
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj - $850
150 shot NOS - $500
Spanking a GT500 - PRICELESS!
350 4 bolt main roller block bored .030" over, notched and rotating assy' bal - $750
Forged Eagle one piece rear main seal crank - $459
Clevite "H" series main and rod bearings - $106
Scat I-beam forged rods 6.0"(bushed) - $209
Wiseco Pro Tru Forged piston kit with plasma moly rings (10.7:1 CR) - $450
Stock oil pump - $40
CompCams XR282HR-10 cam - $200
Pete Jackson gear drive - $250
ATI Super Damper - used $205
2 pc timing cover - $40
Chrome oil pan - $60
AFR 195 Eliminators - $1440
Stock roller lifters and pushrods
Crane Gold Race 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms - $350
SLP 1 3/4" headers - $500 slightly used and coated
Mezeire electric water pump - $325
Accel SR intake and Edelbrock high flo base with FMS 30# inj - $850
150 shot NOS - $500
Spanking a GT500 - PRICELESS!
Last edited by pwdbychevy; 02-06-2009 at 08:44 AM.
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