Installation Notes:
1) If the motor and tranny are in the car the headers will slip in from underneath the car. If the motor is out of the car then you will need to lay/tie the headers to the fenderwell as you drop the motor in. The motor will not drop in with the headers attached.
2) You'll need a ministarter or an LT1 starter.
3) I relocated the knock sensor to the driver's side because there is more clearance there.
4) I had to grind on the front driver's side part of the k-member where the a-arm attaches (front corner) to ensure I wouldn't get any rattles there. Very minor clearancing – probably not even necessary but I wanted to be sure. Click HERE to see the minor clearancing.
5) I had to grind on the passenger side of the k-member where the LT was touching. Primary tube #8 was touching the K-Member here. This had to be clearanced for my application. Click HERE to see the problem.
6) The driver's side header demands that you jack the engine up in order to slip the header in from the bottom. You’ll have to remove the oil sending unit and the filter.
7) The passenger side header slips in with no jacking of the motor (starter removed).
8) To install the headers you want to point the collectors STRAIGHT down at the ground and rotate into place.
9) You need to install the starter while installing the passenger header - it’s the only way. I was able to do this by myself but two people would have made it easier.
10) I used Permatex Copper RTV around the slip tube (ala MAFB).
11) You can't run the stock oil cooler with these headers - it needs to be removed or modified. Rick Lindstedt modified his and made it functional (Skweezn87).
12) You have 2 options with regard to the oxygen sensor. If you are getting a Mufflex Y-pipe then you can order it with O2 sensor bungs. Problem solved. If you have a custom Y-pipe or if you want to put it in the header then the oxygen sensor bung should go on the driver's side TOP of the collector - not the side. There’s more clearance on the top. Get it welded in before you get the headers coated. Definitely consider using a heated O2 sensor. Part numbers and info on this can be found by using the search. I’m using a ’92 Corvette ZR1 heated O2 (bosch 13077). Click HERE to see how the O2 sensor is installed.
13) If you are going to run the Mufflex TPI-Y pipe for the hooker 2210’s (Part Number TPI-Y or TPI-Y O2 available from Mufflex Performance) then be prepared that it will most likely not ‘bolt-in’. I have to take the car to a local speed shop to have them chop up and reweld it. The passenger side hit the passenger side frame rail. The driver’s side didn’t hit anything but tucked up way too close to the stock Torque Arm mount.
14) If you are mating a Mufflex Y to a 3" catback then you will need a 4"-to-3" adapter.
15) No matter what - do not expect to bolt-up the mufflex y-pipe to the I-pipe of your catback. You will need to separate your I-pipe from the converter (or from the bend that goes to the manifold y-pipe if you don't have a converter). You'll then need to either shorten or lengthen your I-pipe to the correct length to mate to the mufflex y-pipe. If you are using the 4"-to-3" adapter then you can expect to expand the entry into your I-pipe so that the y-pipe 4"-to-3" adapter can fit into it. My personal experience shows that a flowmaster force II catback for a dual cat car requires an extra section of 3" pipe since the Mufflex y-pipe is about a foot away from that system's I-pipe (because the after-cat special flowmaster y-pipe from this system is no longer used).
16) Consider Installing some ES poly engine mounts or new engine mounts before taking on this project. The last thing you want is to get everything installed and then replace your motor mounts at a later date and realize there are interference problems. It's easier to deal with these interference problems during the install. NOTE that my installation of the ES Poly engine mounts may have been why I had to do a little bit of extra clearancing. But, this only a possible explanation - it has not been proven.
17) I pulled all the wiring that wrapped around the bottom of the driver's side oil pan and reworked it - not necessary but this will ensure you don't toast any of the wires on the long tubes.
18) The 2210’s have great clearance with L98 angle plugs (my experience) and regular angle plugs (Rick Lindstedt's experience) when using 90 degree spark plug boots. Straight plugs will have a clearance problem with plug #7 (Phil87IROC's experience). To fix the problem with the #7 plug Phil made a shorty plug. To see Phil's pictures click HERE.
19) Be careful when running the positive battery cable to the starter. The passenger primary tubes tuck up pretty close. I used the stock bracket that bolts to the block to secure the cables and ordered some Fire Sleeve from Summit to ensure the wires are protected.
20) I used a Lokar engine dipstick (ED5001). Very expensive but works great for this application. With the LTs there is nowhere to mount the dipstick.