battmann

iTrader: (9)

This write-up and review covers the Intellitronix DP3001 LED digital gauge kit. Their website has this advertised as an "Easy install" and a direct fit system for 82-90 Firebirds. The description also states this kit features turn signals and high beam indicators which isn't the case (I think maybe just the thirdgen Camaro kit has that).
I purchased this new a couple years ago for a 1984 Trans Am I am building and am finally at the point where I can install it. While doing some research online before the install, I found quite a few people said they had dead LEDs on the boards and needed to send back to get fixed. I figured I should test the boards out to make sure everything is working properly before fully installing. I tested the boards using a battery charger and then fried a circuit. Luckily these have a lifetime warranty so after I contacted the company, I was able to send it back to get fixed. Customer service for that was great.
Now onto the install. The instructions seem pretty clear for how to wire everything up (which I haven't started yet), but they really have nothing stating how the circuit boards and black plexi covers get installed. You have to use your stock gauge housing and bezel. The first issue I encountered was the circuit boards did not fit into my stock gauge housing. The holes and notches in the circuit boards did not line up with some of the screw holes or the alignment pins in the upper corners. There is a large triangular opening in the speedo and tach circuit board that is supposed to fit around the blinker / high beam bulb housing but the board opening isn't large enough to fit around this. Using the upper right hand alignment pin, the other board with oil, temp, fuel and volts overlaps the raised screw mounting area in the lower right hand corner. Maybe these circuit boards fit great on other year thirdgen Firebirds, but it isn't working on my 1984. I sent these pictures to Intellitronix and asked how to install this or if I can exchange for a newer version that does fit.









Within 24hrs I received a tech call and was told I will have to modify my gauge housing. So much for their direct fit claims.
I didn't want to just go hacking up my housing so I took baby steps cutting things. I first cut off the top alignment pins. That didn't help the speedo / tach circuit board fit, but the other board was pretty close. I used a rasp bit on my Dremel at slow speed and enlarged the upper right hand screw hole slightly. Now the oil, temp, fuel and volt circuit board fits.



On the speedo / tach side, I tried shaving down the rounded pieces on the outside of the blinker / high beam housing. This allowed the circuit board to fit over the blinker / high beam housing, but the board was still way too high above the top right screw hole to mount it. The blinker / high beam housing is in the way but I didn't want to just cut it out. I ended up using a cutoff disc on my Dremel to make a slot in the blinker / high beam housing to slide the board down into place. The board now fits, but the screw hole above the steering column arc is way off from the mounting hole in the housing. Not sure if I want to try cutting a new hole. With my luck I'll ruin the board somehow and this thing won't work.







With the boards now fitting, I figured the rest should be easy. The next step is to install the front black gauge housing that was removed to install the circuit boards. Reinstall this using the screws that were removed when you took the cluster apart. The black plexi pieces sit on top of this black housing. It isn't clear whether these are held in place by the original clear lens of the cluster or by the large black gauge bezel on the dash. I tried using just the dash bezel, but then the plexi piece move around some back there - they just aren't held tight in place. I then tried installing the clear lens but the speedo / tach plexi cover doesn't fit at all inside the clear lens - mainly around the turn signal / high beam.



I sent the picture above to Intellitronix and asked how the plexi is supposed to be installed. Their response was one sentence - "Sorry but you will need to modify that". Now I'm starting to get pretty PO-ed. This thing costs about $400 and the customer is responsible for modifying the hell out of their original housing AND the Intellitronix product to fit correctly?? The whole reason I bought this in the first place was because of the features is offers and it was supposed to be direct fit. I was originally going to do a full Autometer dash, but didn't want to fabricate a new housing to fit all the gauges. I guess I'm just going to trudge through this install since I'm already this far. Hopefully the end product is worth it.
I'll post more updates as I make progress so this community is informed of what it actually takes to use this product.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Moderator - this should probably be in the Aftermarket Product review section. Can you please move.
Thanks.

kentuckyKITT

iTrader: (4)

Wow, I was thinking about buying a set for my 89. Thanks for helping me decide not to. They looked sketchy to me initially and I read a lot of bad reviews on the internet about them for other cars.

2knight

iTrader: (1)

Getting them installed is the easy part lol. The hard part is taking apart your dash and shipping gauges and waiting for replacements everytime you drive your classic. If I were you I'd chuck em in the trash where they belong and put 86-89 gauges with 140 mph speedo or custom dakota digitals if you have the cash. Careful trying to get a refund Paul the owner is a slick one. I shipped mine back and he never refunded the money just always another excuse. Lesson learned.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I have these for my 84 TA (not installed yet). I hope it goes easier than this.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Made a little more progress on these tonight.
I purchased an 8-pin Deutsch connector from ebay and connected that to the Intellitronix wiring. I thought this would be a good idea in case I want to ditch these gauges for some other setup in the future. I'm doing an LS swap with 4L80E tranny and will be using an FiTech Ultimate LS EFI. The FiTech computer controls my tranny and outputs a speedo signal so I don't have to use a cable. This allows me to use the speedo hole in the cluster for the gauge connector.



I decided that I didn't want to mess around cutting the Intellitronix black plexi covers or my clear stock gauge lens so I installed the black plexi pieces on the front black factory housing with small screws. I first drilled pilot holes in the black plexi lenses. Then I drilled the holes slightly larger than the screws I used for the install. This way I wouldn't have to worry about cracking the plexi. I also drilled small pilot holes in the factory black housing for the screws. I'm not going to use the stock clear lens. The black plexi lenses are about the same thickness as the stock clear lens so the factory bezel sits on the plexi faces with no gap. Here it is the cluster all together. All the screws will be covered by the bezel so you won't see them.



Next I wired them up to my battery to test and make sure everything works. I connected the power wire with inline 5A fuse to the battery positive and the ground wire to battery negative.
Gauges all work and I have to admit I think they do look pretty cool. Only issue is it appears there is a burned out LED - the top line of the zero below the MPH.
Looks like 2knight predicted the future! Now I have to remove everything and contact Intellitronix to send the board back and get fixed. That sucks

battmann

iTrader: (9)

I forgot to mention, I also contacted Dakota Digital today for information on a custom VFD set of gauges installed in my factory gauge cluster. One of my stipulations was that the display is red.
I received an email within hours saying the estimate for a 6 gauge VFD digital system in red is $1,225. They sent the picture below showing a similar example. It's for a Nova and display is blue, but you get the idea.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I think I will power mine up tonight to check for burned out LEDs.

2knight

iTrader: (1)

Yep I went through 4 gauge kits within one summer. Everyone had leds start to burn out all in different places on each board. Dakota digital is expensive but will last I guess you get what you pay for. I dont know how intellitronix can stay in business they have to constantly be repairing peoples gauges.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I checked mine last night. The bottom segment on one the "L"s in ELEC is dim. But I noticed some stray solder on the back of the circuit board. I will remove that tonight and power it up again. Fingers crossed.

No change. GOD, these are bright - too bright.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Wanted to provide some additional information on this unit since I haven't followed up in awhile.
When I last posted, I had a burnt-out LED on the cluster so I sent it back in to get repaired. Each time it needs to be fixed, it's about a month from when you mail it in to when you get it back. A couple weeks ago I was ready to start my engine for the first time, but the oil pressure gauge would peg at 99 and stay there.



The instructions said I could use a standard one-wire SBC oil pressure sender but that obviously wasn't working. I had to buy intellitronix's special oil pressure sender (part number S8868). my sender is at the back of my LS engine behind the intake so it was a huge pain to swap them out. I couldn't screw the sender into the block adapter because the underside was too short and was hitting bolts on the valley cover. I had to get some fittings at Home Depot to get the sender up higher. The new sender has two connections - one for the gauge and then the other grounds to the engine. Guess the effort was worth it because the gauge now reads correctly. Pic comparing the typical SBC sender (right) and the intellitronix one after adding the fittings (left):



I did get my engine fired (which was super exciting!) and noticed the tach isn't reading the correct RPM. I'm using an FITech LS EFI system so I can see the true RPM in the handheld. Looks like at idle, the gauge is a little less than half of what my handheld shows. I haven't driven the car yet so not sure if the tach will be more accurate when not at idle. In searching online I found a few things to check. One is the cluster might be set up in 8cyl mode, but LS needs 4cyl (I think). Another fix might be to install a resistor in the tach wire from the ECU. I'll follow back up once I figure out the solution.

2knight

iTrader: (1)

Get the dakota digital gauges if you must have digital gauges, trust me lol, buy once cry once. I guarantee you will soon get frustrated with leds burning out & you either will live with missing segments or shell out the cash for quality gauges. I have now figured out how they can have a lifetime warranty, people get tired of sending them in and give up lol.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

My plan is to get a Dakota Digital cluster once I have the funds to do so. In the meantime I’ll use this one since I already have it. Maybe I’ll get lucky and this cluster will last me a couple years. Wishful thinking I know.

2knight

iTrader: (1)

Good luck hopefully you got a good one but keep us posted.