Jay87Z

iTrader: (2)

Like Mr. IROC-Z's car.. anyone know what he did?

Cause with stock suspension it would sit like a 4x4.. and lowered the 18's would probably hit the top of the wheel well over bumps, right?

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

Hi Jay,
You are right, it does take some good work
to make the car look good with 18' rims.

First, you must get heavy duty springs, and
good struts/shocks (I'll tell you why in a
moment).

To lower the car that much, you will have to
take out the plastic fender lining and cut
some sheet-metal from the fender. With the
plastic protectant out of the fender, there
is this part of the sheetmetal that protrudes
directly over the tire. This piece runs along the whole inside of the fender. When
you lower the car, this piece will cut you
tire when you go over any bumps. The best
way to get rid of this is to heat the sheet
metal and hammer it to the side. Be fore-
warned though that this is not easy! The
sheetmetal is very strong. Spend most of
your time on this! Ensure that there are
no sharp edges!

Because of the size of the tire and because
you don't want to make your car look like a
4X4, you must "slam" your car to the ground!
This is the only way that 18's will look
good on the car.

This is where the springs and shocks come into play. I bought my spings from GLobal
West. Original lowering springs from
Eibach are not ok for normal lowered cars,
but this application will not work for 18's!
You need a springs with extra strenght. I
ordered mine @ 750lbs in the front and I think 160lbs in the rear. Normal Eibachs are
450 in the front and I think 80 in the back.

I ran Eibachs originally when I had the 18's
but the rims still hit the fender. You will
have to cut the Global West springs yourself!
This again is time intensive. Cut little by
little and install. Keep doing this until you
get the ride height you want. Remember though that the car will settle a bit! After
cutting the springs, drive around a bit and
le the car sit. Measure the fender gap space
before and after.

I have Koni Adjustable Yellow Shocks. Again,
good shocks will help the handling imensly!

You may have to hammet the rear fenders a bit
also. You also want to ensure that you have
correct sice bump stops in the car.

It took me several weeks and alot of time to
finally get the car right........but as you
can see, the work was well worth it. If you
have any questions..feel free to ask.

Thanks.

Tommy

kiztope

Sounds like a rough riding car, unless the road is glass smooth.....

Those springs are like mounting rocks where your springs should be.......

Just my observation


Sorry, but I think Iroc Z's car looks goofy slammed that far to the ground.... Just an opinion! To every man his own!

------------------
http://kiztope.50megs.com
92 Rs 3.1/T-5
KYB Shocks and Struts, Blue Streak cap and rotor, neato new radiator!, RapidFire plugs

An overhead console!!
Clarion Head Unit,
Pioneer 6x9's,Cerwin Vega Plate 4x6's
.....
Its slowly but surely coming along....

AIM : Theonekiztope
ICQ: 8787542
Planetarion: 3GFB kiztope of kiztopia-Camera-92RS-A (33:6:14(?))

"No one knows until they learn" Leon Calrinsky (99)

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

Kiztope,
You are correct. The ride is rough as hell,
but if you want the look, you must pay the
price. Although I can tell you that the car
has never bottomed out nor has it hit the
fender at any time....even in very rough
roads. I just adjust the shocks to soften
up the ride a bit.

Tommy

manalive67

mr irocz what size is your sidewall cause if you have a 40 then it would be the same as a 16 with a 50 i can understand the need for stronger springs but irocs i think can go pretty low and not touch the tire when turning why did you hammer it. how low did you go

manalive67

mr irocz what size is your sidewall cause if you have a 40 then it would be the same as a 16 with a 50 i can understand the need for stronger springs but irocs i think can go pretty low and not touch the tire when turning why did you hammer it. how low did you go

manalive67

mr irocz what size is your sidewall cause if you have a 40 then it would be the same as a 16 with a 50 i can understand the need for stronger springs but irocs i think can go pretty low and not touch the tire when turning why did you hammer it. how low did you go

Jay87Z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mr.

I don't have any plans on getting the 18's, just needed your input to settle a debate on 3rdgen.org, and you proved my point

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

Hi,
The tires are 255/45/18. I tried the 40
series, but they looked too "riceish".
Because of the size of the car, a bigger tire
looks better. Even if I went with the 40's
I would still need to make modifications on
the car. Have you ever tried putting 18's
on thirdgen's? Like the thread says, they
look pretty crappy if the car has not been
lowered properly. The car will sit high off
the ground giving it that 4X4 look.

Again, for anybody considering going with 18's, learn from my experience....go with
45 series and get a good suspension package.

Thanks

Tommy

GMI FAST

Unfortunately, Mr. Iroc, your choice of 45 aspect ratio is way too tall. I like my speedo and gear ratios to be what they should be. I run 18" rubber also. However, mine are the same height as stock. I run P245/40ZR18 in front, and P285/35ZR18 in back. 8.5" wheels in front, 10" in rear. No suspension problems, rubbing, etc. I use Suspension Techniques springs, too. 18" tires fit fine with the proper wheel offsets...

------------------
1989 Formula, 383", DFI, Mini-Ram, S-Trim Vortech, blah, blah...
Best ET: 10.796 @ 125.8 mph

TURBO 406 PROJECT STARTED!!!

Other expensive hobby: assault weapons/shooting sports

Employed at:
Hahn Racecraft
Accel EMIC/DFI Tuning
Turbosystems & Custom EFI

Member of Midwest F-Body Association
www.mfba.org

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

I will however bet pink slips that your car
still has a fender gap. I would like to see
a picture of your car. I will put money on
it that many more people in this group will
favor my car in turn of yours.


Thanks

FTC

i just got the chrome 18s on my car with 245/40s all around and i only have eibach 1" springs. there is a small fender gap but ive gotten nothing but compliments from everyone i talk to about it. nothing wrong with fender gaps it looks fine.

------------------
91 Z28, 64k mi.,k+ns, chip, flows, fresh black paint, gts blackouts all around, 18" chrome irocs, kybs, eiback 1" springs, global west sfcs, nu stereo/sub/amp, red dome/guage lights, and plenty more to come.

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm...ok. I guess "beauty is in the eye of
the beholder". I would be interested in
seeing a picture of it, if you don't mind.

Thanks

GMI FAST

Fender gaps? Here's some math for you: If my 18" tires are the same height as my 16" tires were, and my 16" tires had very little fender gap, then my 18" tires also will have the same amount of fender gap. Get it? Serious performance cars such as mine require SOME fender clearance, Einstein. I need full wheel travel and sidewall clearance for both drag racing and road racing. How's that speedo working out for you? Hey, speaking of fender gaps, looks like you have plenty of fender gap---from the sidewall to the fender lip! What are those, 18X8 wheels? Look like motorcycle tires out back all tucked in like that. Try stuffing some 10" on there and see what clears, pal. But hey, you're right: Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder...

[This message has been edited by GMI FAST (edited December 13, 2000).]

kiztope

GMI, got any pics?

stingerssx

Tell you what Mr Iroc, if I could, I would!! Your ride sits at the perfect height. The fender gap on your ride reminds me of my gap on my Elcamino, and I've got 15" rallys. You can never go too low. But you can be too high. Like stock. That's too high!! I hope that you don't mind, I'm useing your pic as my back ground!!

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

GMI FAST,
Thanks for educating us about suspension. I
understand your point of wheel travel. You
are correct, you definetly need wheel travel
for your application for drag racing and
road racing. You probably think that I don't have much wheel travel, but I do, since
I modified the fenders. I have about inch to inch half in there. You stated that you road race.....did you see the MOMO racing seats in the picture and full racing harnesess...those aren't there for the
looks,...the car is/will be used for Grand Touring. But maybe you don't
care about the looks of your car....and that's fine.... the results....your car looks like any other camaro out there, but
with 18' rims. I choose to make mine different, and still have driveability.

But maybe I'm wrong about this whole thing.
A picture of your car would clear this whole
issue up. By the way, what type of rims are
you using?

Thanks

GMI FAST

I definitely care about the way my car looks! I will post pictures when the hood is done. Here's what makes mine different. Everyone else can decide which car looks "better":
1) IMSA-style hood off old Mecham 1985 race car. Not like everybody's cowl hood.
2) Filled side markers, replaced w/Audi markers on fenders.
3) Shaved side mouldings.
4) MK Motorsport MK1 6-spoke 18X8.5, 18X10 wheels.

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm very interesting. The MK motorsport
wheels are European. I know exactly which
ones you are speaking of....again intersting
choice of wheels....I am trying to visualize
a Third Gen with those rims and I am not
getting a pretty picture.

The other mods you have done sound kinda kewl
though.

Awaiting your picture.

Thanks

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

GMI FAST,
I must apologize to you, and to the whole
board. Sorry for my behavior. I should not
judge you on your car. As long as you like
it that's kewl. I was just reading the
last replies and realized that we are
quarelling over such a stupid subject. It
sounds like you have done some unique
things on your car, and it has probably taken
alot of creativity to implement those ideas.
Hope you accept the apology.

Thanks

GMI FAST

No biggie, Mr. Iroc. To each his own...
Actually, the MK1's look great on the car. The spokes reach all the way to the rim of the wheel exposing my Baer Track brakes. They have a nice, fat lip, too! I have installed NHRA-legal wheel studs, and I am worried about center cap clearance. I will find out tomorrow. I may have to sell the wheels and buy the open-lug OZ Racing Monoblocs I am looking at. Here's the rest of the car:
406" turbo engine
Nitrous Works fogger kit
Turbo 400 w/brake
Gear Vendors O.D.
9" w/3.70's
8-point S&W rollbar
Sparco wheel
Corbeau Forza 2 seats
RCI harnesses
Cheetah SCS shifter in stock console
MacEwen white gauge faces
Auto Meter Phantom tach and gauges
Carbon fiber dash overlay kit
Pioneer/Boston Acoustics tunes
Greddy turbo timer
Greddy Profec B boost control w/remote
Fresh black interior
Fresh T/A rebody
Awaiting hood prep and new red paint...
Don't make me list the engine and suspension components!




------------------
1989 Formula, 383", DFI, Mini-Ram, S-Trim Vortech, blah, blah...
Best ET: 10.796 @ 125.8 mph

TURBO 406 PROJECT STARTED!!!

Other expensive hobby: assault weapons/shooting sports

Employed at:
Hahn Racecraft
Accel EMIC/DFI Tuning
Turbosystems & Custom EFI

Member of Midwest F-Body Association
www.mfba.org

RSpeed

My 2 cents; I'm glad to see mr irocz and gmi put there differences aside and agree that everone's tastes are different.

Z28Maniac

Mr. IROC-Z,

First let me say that your car looks great! I prefer 17" wheels on thirdgens myself, but the 18s look killer on yours.

I have a question regarding lowering the car. Above you stated:

I've replaced my rear springs, so I know thats a relatively easy operation. However, from what I understand, removing and installing front springs is a far more difficult task. I would think you'd want to cut the front springs the right length the first time so as not to have to hassle with it again. How many total coils did you have to cut? (Thats really what I'm getting at!)

------------------
John
'85 Z28 TPI 305

[This message has been edited by Z28Maniac (edited December 15, 2000).]

Mr. IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

Z28 Maniac,
It's not that bad taking out the front springs..once you've done it a couple of times. First off, what kind of springs are
you cutting...? Stock or already lowered
springs? If they are the lowered type, I
would start off with 1/2 a coil. Sorry to
say but this is not an exact science, and
each car will react differently. I
cut and re-installed my springs three times
before I was satisfied. Remeber, each time
cut, let the car settle and actally drive
it a bit before the next cut.

Sorry I couldn't give you an easier answer.

TOmmy

Z28Maniac

I was told you need a press to reattach the tie rod ball joint. Can it be done without a press? I think that would make it easier to reinstall the front springs.

biscwgn

Mr IROC Z car is badass one of nicest i have seen you done a fine job on it>

------------------

[*]1996 TransAM conv(SOLD)[*]1995 Camaro rs(TRADED) [*]1977 Camaro LT(SOLD)[*]1973 Camaro RS (TRADED)[*]1973 Camaro LT (TRADED)

Jza

.

[This message has been edited by Jza (edited November 21, 2001).]

Cntrvrsy

Hey GMI Fast, I can't wait 2 see pics of ur car. I love those MK Motorsport rims especially in chrome. I saw a pic of a '95 Impala SS with those rims (18s) and they looked REAL good. I was originally gonna get Racing Dynamics RGRs, another BMW wheel (18by9 and 18by11) but they no longer make that style so I got Enkeis SST-2s in 18 by 10s all around. And as I've said many times before Mr.IROC-Z, ur car looks good. I love lowered rides.

GMI FAST

Cntrvrsy: Are your Enkei wheels a 5X120 or 5X120.65 bolt pattern? People said I couldn't use the BMW bolt pattern, but it fit fine. Just curious as to what you found out. Thanks.

------------------
1989 Formula, 383", DFI, Mini-Ram, S-Trim Vortech, blah, blah...
Best ET: 10.796 @ 125.8 mph

TURBO 406 PROJECT STARTED!!!

Other expensive hobby: assault weapons/shooting sports

Employed at:
Hahn Racecraft
Accel EMIC/DFI Tuning
Turbosystems & Custom EFI

Member of Midwest F-Body Association
www.mfba.org