Window/Door Rattles--Observation and Pics - Page 2 - Body - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Tyler-88 · 07-28-2003, 11:13 PM

might as well bring this bitch back alive. so i was out trying to kill some rattles. on my drivers door, i traced a resonating rattle from that metal piece that is rivited onto the door that holds the arm rest. what i did was take like a square inch of paper towell and roll it up. than i took a screw driver and pried the top out a little bit and than jammed the rolled up paper towell piece into the gap, than i used a real small screw driver to push it a little deeper so you cant see it. i done this on both doors and oh man, what in improvement. and one other thing i had noticed was that the metal pieces for the door lock and door latch rattle. i already replaced the foam as described earlier but they still continue to rattle. in the pictures above, the rods have a sleeve on them, mine do not have this. the plan is to find something to put over the rods so they do not move as much while shutting the door.
:>

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 07:23 AM

Recently, I discovered another possible source of noise: the A-pillar retainers and their clips. After being subjected to the sun for many years, the plastic of both the pillar and the clips can become brittle and, as a consequence, break.

The pillar, if my parts man is correct, is no longer available from GM. As I recall, it wasn't available from Year One either. As can be seen, I did attempt a fix to a retainer, one that probably would have worked, but I ended up harvesting the entire pillar from a bone yard for $5.00.

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 07:31 AM

Here are the five clips, two Christmas tree type for the lower portion of the pillar and three for the upper. The three upper are more suspectible to breaking, I think. Once the center portion snaps there is nothing to keep them in place.

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 07:35 AM

There are at least three versions of the upper clips.

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 07:38 AM

Sorry. The first version looks very similiar to the ones shown here, but the base, which is also suspectible to breaking as you see, is even more feeble (82 to 84 cars?). The newest version has a rubber insulator--again GM must have been aware of noise problems. That version can be seen on the following thread (thanks CC_HotRod for the pic and TomP for a good how-to reply):

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...llar+and+clips (Frigin clips!!)

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 07:56 AM

One of the Christmas tree clips in place. I bought new at CarQuest.

Note the weather stripping. I stripped and reglued, then liberally doused it with silicone to guard against its drying out and cracking.

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 08:00 AM

The upper clip is still available from GM (part number 20462090), the type with insulator as shown in the above thread.

JamesC

JamesC · 08-12-2003, 08:05 AM

In addition to TomP's instructions, I found the following helpful: Simply stick a piece of tape directly behind the retainer so that you'll know where to push to install the clips--otherwise you're shooting a bit blind.

JamesC

_max_ · 08-12-2003, 07:33 PM

man thank you for taking the time and effort to keep this up :hail:

MetalliCamaroRS · 08-12-2003, 08:05 PM

Wow, I'll sure use this thread when I get around to "rebuilding" my doors from the inside out.

Dean92RS · 08-12-2003, 08:47 PM

Tyler,

Buy a coupla bucks worth of vacuum line---I don't know the exact size but you can eyeball it.

Probably 10 feet would do every linkage rod in both doors one and a half times.

Cut off a foot-long piece and slit it, then slide it onto the rods.

Also, there's a place about a foot or so from the rear of the door where two rods run right next to each other. Sorry, I finished this job last week and buttoned up the door, but I think the two rods are the one from the door lock slide and the one from the door latch handle. One of them was real loose and rattle-y. What I did was a little funky, but might work for you. I wrapped a nylon zip-tie loosely around both rods, just snug enough to stop the rattle, then I greased the snot out of the rods so the zip-tie can slide. Come to think of it, I greased about every d*mn thing in there except the glass.

My door sounds great now.

Oh yeah. One more thing. If your door has the nylon striker plates (later models, I think), make sure they are right up snug against each other when the door closes. Mine were like 1/8 inch apart. Factory uses thin spacer shims, you can make them out of anything. These do a really nice job of holding the door tight. The plates I'm talking about are a couple of inches below the top of the door and in the matching spot on the jamb. They're angled to slide up tight against each other when the door closes. If your car doesn't have them, grab a pair off a yard dog and put 'em on.
You'll love 'em.

JamesC · 02-17-2004, 03:18 PM

Should anyone else have suggestions, please post.

JamesC

grngryoutmyway · 02-17-2004, 04:34 PM

Awsome post man, get the mods to make it "sticky"

You have any tips fro removing window rattling? I assume I need to take the door panel off and get in there and tighten it up? what all do I need to tighten and should I try to use some thread lock?

Spdfrk1990 · 02-17-2004, 07:09 PM

Nice, My passenger door is startin to get noisy.

birdofprey83 · 02-22-2006, 11:58 PM

Cool. Very useful!

Xophertony · 02-23-2006, 02:17 AM

yeah, i bookmarked this thread about a year ago. frekin awsome info here.

JamesC · 02-23-2006, 06:06 AM

FYI, this link is posted in the FAQ board.

JamesC

Skihorse · 02-26-2006, 09:21 AM

I found the bump stop in the bottom of my 85 door. Where does it go?

JamesC · 02-26-2006, 02:16 PM

The answer, at least for thirdgen cars, is found earlier in the post.

JamesC

Skihorse · 02-26-2006, 07:54 PM

Still not finding it. Mine is an 85 not an 05 as I previously posted. Is it in one of the shop diagrams. Sorry, I'm new at this...

Justin Horne · 02-26-2006, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by okfoz
I think 87 was a big year for a lot of those improvements, to help reduce rattles. I know mine had most of those from the factory EXCEPT the Lower Door rubber piece that he describes (Got one from another car, makes the door close harder but it helped with some squeaks. I think my 91 had it tho...

John

My 82 has it as well, but I would presume someone put it in then...

JamesC · 02-27-2006, 05:19 AM

The FAQ link provides much more info. Please post there.

http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthre...hreadid=226909

JamesC

Skihorse · 02-27-2006, 06:22 AM

Found it!!! Thanks a million!

88txiroc · 05-13-2006, 10:19 AM

Due to having a lot of good info, and being asked several times, I am going to stick this thread to the top.

89blues · 05-14-2006, 07:23 PM

this is great!! I really hope that someday someone makes a complete door rebuild kit with instructions so one can order everything they need in one sweep

Jim 86 IROC · 06-20-2006, 12:49 PM

Wow, great thread and some good tips here, thanks guys.

88IROCARMY · 06-30-2006, 10:28 PM

Another great related post
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/bo...hab-resto.html

88IROCARMY · 07-01-2006, 02:15 PM

Some lower hinge info:
The lower hinge contains a pin with a roller on it. Many times the roller gets destroyed and starts popping. One member found that you can just replace the pin and roller, saving you money since new lower hinge is about $100. Also new lower hinges do not come with three holes drilled, just two. My 88 Iroc was a three hole lower hinge.
Roller: GM Part#20058035
Pin: GM Part # 20262500
See attached picture
Entire hinge can be purchased at Hawk's (site sponsor)
Other pictures show how the failed roller destroyed the pin.

Dizturbed One · 07-26-2006, 04:52 AM