Tyler-88

might as well bring this bitch back alive. so i was out trying to kill some rattles. on my drivers door, i traced a resonating rattle from that metal piece that is rivited onto the door that holds the arm rest. what i did was take like a square inch of paper towell and roll it up. than i took a screw driver and pried the top out a little bit and than jammed the rolled up paper towell piece into the gap, than i used a real small screw driver to push it a little deeper so you cant see it. i done this on both doors and oh man, what in improvement. and one other thing i had noticed was that the metal pieces for the door lock and door latch rattle. i already replaced the foam as described earlier but they still continue to rattle. in the pictures above, the rods have a sleeve on them, mine do not have this. the plan is to find something to put over the rods so they do not move as much while shutting the door.
:>

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Recently, I discovered another possible source of noise: the A-pillar retainers and their clips. After being subjected to the sun for many years, the plastic of both the pillar and the clips can become brittle and, as a consequence, break.

The pillar, if my parts man is correct, is no longer available from GM. As I recall, it wasn't available from Year One either. As can be seen, I did attempt a fix to a retainer, one that probably would have worked, but I ended up harvesting the entire pillar from a bone yard for $5.00.

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Here are the five clips, two Christmas tree type for the lower portion of the pillar and three for the upper. The three upper are more suspectible to breaking, I think. Once the center portion snaps there is nothing to keep them in place.

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

There are at least three versions of the upper clips.

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Sorry. The first version looks very similiar to the ones shown here, but the base, which is also suspectible to breaking as you see, is even more feeble (82 to 84 cars?). The newest version has a rubber insulator--again GM must have been aware of noise problems. That version can be seen on the following thread (thanks CC_HotRod for the pic and TomP for a good how-to reply):

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...llar+and+clips

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

One of the Christmas tree clips in place. I bought new at CarQuest.

Note the weather stripping. I stripped and reglued, then liberally doused it with silicone to guard against its drying out and cracking.

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The upper clip is still available from GM (part number 20462090), the type with insulator as shown in the above thread.

Hawk's now sells the above as well:

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...rd-New-GM.html

JamesC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

In addition to TomP's instructions, I found the following helpful: Simply stick a piece of tape directly behind the retainer so that you'll know where to push to install the clips--otherwise you're shooting a bit blind.

JamesC

_max_

man thank you for taking the time and effort to keep this up :hail:

MetalliCamaroRS

iTrader: (15)

Wow, I'll sure use this thread when I get around to "rebuilding" my doors from the inside out.

Dean92RS

Tyler,

Buy a coupla bucks worth of vacuum line---I don't know the exact size but you can eyeball it.

Probably 10 feet would do every linkage rod in both doors one and a half times.

Cut off a foot-long piece and slit it, then slide it onto the rods.

Also, there's a place about a foot or so from the rear of the door where two rods run right next to each other. Sorry, I finished this job last week and buttoned up the door, but I think the two rods are the one from the door lock slide and the one from the door latch handle. One of them was real loose and rattle-y. What I did was a little funky, but might work for you. I wrapped a nylon zip-tie loosely around both rods, just snug enough to stop the rattle, then I greased the snot out of the rods so the zip-tie can slide. Come to think of it, I greased about every d*mn thing in there except the glass.

My door sounds great now.

Oh yeah. One more thing. If your door has the nylon striker plates (later models, I think), make sure they are right up snug against each other when the door closes. Mine were like 1/8 inch apart. Factory uses thin spacer shims, you can make them out of anything. These do a really nice job of holding the door tight. The plates I'm talking about are a couple of inches below the top of the door and in the matching spot on the jamb. They're angled to slide up tight against each other when the door closes. If your car doesn't have them, grab a pair off a yard dog and put 'em on.
You'll love 'em.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Should anyone else have suggestions, please post.

JamesC

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Awsome post man, get the mods to make it "sticky"

You have any tips fro removing window rattling? I assume I need to take the door panel off and get in there and tighten it up? what all do I need to tighten and should I try to use some thread lock?

Spdfrk1990

Nice, My passenger door is startin to get noisy.

birdofprey83

Cool. Very useful!

Xophertony

yeah, i bookmarked this thread about a year ago. frekin awsome info here.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

FYI, this link is posted in the FAQ board.

JamesC

Skihorse

I found the bump stop in the bottom of my 85 door. Where does it go?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The answer, at least for thirdgen cars, is found earlier in the post.

JamesC

Skihorse

Still not finding it. Mine is an 85 not an 05 as I previously posted. Is it in one of the shop diagrams. Sorry, I'm new at this...

Justin Horne

My 82 has it as well, but I would presume someone put it in then...

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The FAQ link provides much more info. Please post there.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=226909

JamesC

Skihorse

Found it!!! Thanks a million!

88txiroc

Due to having a lot of good info, and being asked several times, I am going to stick this thread to the top.

89blues

iTrader: (1)

this is great!! I really hope that someday someone makes a complete door rebuild kit with instructions so one can order everything they need in one sweep

Jim 86 IROC

Wow, great thread and some good tips here, thanks guys.

88IROCARMY

Another great related post
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...hab-resto.html

88IROCARMY

Some lower hinge info:
The lower hinge contains a pin with a roller on it. Many times the roller gets destroyed and starts popping. One member found that you can just replace the pin and roller, saving you money since new lower hinge is about $100. Also new lower hinges do not come with three holes drilled, just two. My 88 Iroc was a three hole lower hinge.
Roller: GM Part#20058035
Pin: GM Part # 20262500
See attached picture
Entire hinge can be purchased at Hawk's (site sponsor)
Other pictures show how the failed roller destroyed the pin.

Dizturbed One

pvc would be too thick

and it would crack since it's not very pliable

matt_p

The rear seat striker cover on the door striker is a brilliant idea! I did it today and works like a hot damn.

Between the sfcs I recently installed and that, I have a new found love for cruising in my t-top car!

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

If anybody hasn't seen the group purchase post for repairing the upper/lower hinges on sagging doors, check it out!
The GP is almost complete so hurry!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/grou...epair-kit.html

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

One thing to check if your door rattles, I don't know if it's been mentioned in this thread or not, if you have manual mirrors, check them and see if they're lose or if something inside is lose. My passenger door always rattled since I bought the car and I could never figure out what it was, when I was swapping out my mirros with the power mirrors I noticed the mirror rattled a little when I set it down. So I closed the door and no rattle!

Jim 86 IROC

I recently installed new outer window weather seals and window motors in my "new" '88 IROC and found there are two "pads" on top of the inner door frame that can be adjusted to keep the window glass tight.

Also, when installing the window regulators with (2) 1/4" bolts, I used star washers behind both the bolt heads and the nuts to prevent loosening over time.

Since the weather seals were missing from both doors, I cut new ones from 3mil polyethelene and then cut new sound deanenders from a sheet of polyurethane underlayment.

The result is that the doors now have a rock solid sound when closed and the ride is much quieter.

1985WS6transam

iTrader: (4)

I have not yet started to do this but thanks alot.
my question is that it seems as though when i shut my door with my window down it seems to be more rattely then with it shut... any ideas as to why, i would like to gather up as many parts needed as possible before taking of my door panel...
Thanks again,
Dennis

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Perhaps the window guides or perhaps the weather stripping on either side of the window.

JamesC

Jim 86 IROC

With window up the glass hits the weather stripping all around and so cannot rattle.

Even with my new outer glass seals I still notice a little rattle when I shut the door with the glass down. Maybe I need to adjust the felt pads a little to take this out, not sure till I try it.

okfoz

I notice that hwen I close the doors with the windows up or all the way down there is no rattles... With the window partially up I get the window rattle...

JOhn

Jim 86 IROC

On my '88 there are several "tracks" in which the regulator and window run:
-one along the bottom of the window
-two bolted to the inner door skin
-the front channel in which the window moves

If any of those components is loose you will/may get some rattle.

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Great article. Thanks to everyone esp JamesC. Getting rid of the annoying door rattles will make driving more

Spdfrk1990

I dunno about my thirdgen I havnt messed with it in awhile but my 4th gen would rattle with window half way down. I checked everything last night and found what it was. It was the guide/roller towards the rear of the door I could grap the bracket the roller attaches too and where the roller was riveted on well that was loose. My temp fix was to cover the connection with strip calk. Later on I can take it all out and put a screw in there with some red thread lock.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I plan on buying these when I do my doors. Maybe I'll fix mine now but when I want to replace everything I'm buying these

http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/prod...?productID=117
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/prod...?productID=118

Then these

http://cs21.simplehost.com/%7Epercys...d=43&Itemid=57
1/4" Front w/ all others 1/8"01137-42$ 1,295.00

This is next winter though when I do my body work. THE WHOLE UNDERCARRIAGE will be worked on. Its not a bad setup if you want to loose tons of weight. Just watch out.....the lexan is illegal, and fiberglass is easier to break than steel.....hope you never get into an accident.

Gumby

Price: $320.00

Is that just for a door skin, or a whole complete door?

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

As far as I know its for the complete door.....minus everything like door panel (internals) door handle. But it is for my IROC so I dont have to buy rocker panels.....YESSS, and not to brag but $320 for a light *** door......WELL WORTH IT. I want these doors so I dont have to worry about my door sagging anymore (much really), and it will be WAYYY lighter than stock doors. Im e-mailing them now to find out weights of their products.

EDIT: E-MAIL SENT

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have found a few fixes myself.
Subframe connectors are a must.
Step 1 is to fix the hinges if there is a problem.
Step 2 is install the plastic wedges on the body and doors from a 92 ish car to make the door more solid

1st is the rubber stopper for the bottom of the glass. Its usually rotted, rolling around the bottom of the door shell and makes the door sound like a box of toy pinball machine parts when closed with the glass all the way down..
I used the rubber mounts found on a fox body mustang air box to fix mine.. (87-93)
Its the 2 upper rubber air box mounts that we are stealing. It has a threaded side with a washer molded to rubber another washer then more threads. They come with their own nuts. I cut off 1side of the stock screw/washer assembly and that leaves you with a perfect studded rubber stopper replacement ..
drill out old rivit on the lower center door glass bracket and install the rubber part (rubber down, stud up) from stang. you may have to drill the bracket a tad bigger for the stud.

Another is a metal brace the runs inside along the upper part of the outer door skin above the door handle. Over time it comes in contact with the door skin and rattles after the door is shut. If you put your hand on the metal it will feel tight but if you pull on it gently it will seperate away from the skin, thats where it rattles when closed. I just use high density foam or old bike innertube between the parts and no more rattle..

deebs067

[
----------
primer u said u had the website to BTW SoftSeal weather stripping

rickys69charger

Hi, I have a 1985 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta, here’s a link to see it http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3088924 and the 3rd to last row you can see were my glass from the driver side window is chipping away at my car and that mark you see is from a metal Piece of my car. I don’t know how the glass hasn’t cracked but every time I closed the door it hits there. I don’t know much about cars, so I need some help. Can I just adjust the hinge or do I replace it. Also can someone tell me what’s that thing I’m holding in the 5th from the bottom picture? it came from the top of the car

tilstad

I've been working to sound deaden my doors for the last few weeks, but the main problem have been to manage to locate the sounds. Now, I've found door handle hinge slop, door handle bracket slop, rod slop,various bracket slop, but still after fixing all of that, it STILLL rattles!

Anyway, today I found a new source for the "clunking" I have alot of; The centre pivoting point for the main window mechanism. Seems it's just some kind of steel rivet that works as the bearing there. So it may be hard to fix, given to replace, it needs to be both flush, not too tight, but tight enough to eliminate slop etc..

I found this big slop by driving without doorpanels, having window maybe 40% down, then you may push and pull on a big white plastic piece that hodsl the window towards the sideview mirros, and then you'll both hear the flop, and see it.

I think we need some kind of brass bearing kit, like the door hinge fix. Anyone got an idea on how to fix that and still keep it so flush it wont hit glass or door itself?

Maybe some locksmith bolts cut to length could do the trick...

upincomin

It's been awhile since this post has been opened, But I always seem to find reasons to bring back old stuff.. I have all clips off, well im 95% sure. Up on the top rail, it's the only thing holding the panel off, I'm trying to get it out of the way so I have full access to the dent in my door, I wanna try and push the dent out but I don't have the right angles with the panel on. I can bend it, but I don't want to. The panel slides slightly left and right, but something is keeping it on at the very top, any ideas??

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Check post #6. Two window guides are shown (I'm pointing to one). Between the two and between the door and window glass, you'll see a small rectangle--and another at the far right side of the pic. IIRC, there are a total of four. Clips from the rail fit into those. Put the window down. Start at the left of the door. Push the rail inward and up at the same time to releasea clip, then go to the next, etc.

JamesC

aciddrop2804

i really must be lucky. my 84 z28 has no rattles, at least that i have noticed. then again it does only have 84,000 miles, was owned by an old couple and was garaged for years.

now if only i could do something about that rust =[