mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

is this the product that people have used to bleed brakes with lots of success?? the phoenix V-12?? can some chime in let me know before i buy the wrong thing. thanks alot.

ede

i bought one to bleed a clutch with and there is nothing better or easier. i also bought a steering wheel jack to hold the clutch or brake pedal 1/2 way down, it helps a lot. only thing it has going aginst it is the cost.

Tom Keliher

I use the Vacula.

http://www.vacula.com/usa/produkte/brake_drain.shtml

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

is vacula great? does it leave a air free a hydralic system? on average how long does is take per wheel? and most important how much is it......?

Tom Keliher

Well, I think it is totally awesome. It leaves you with a totally air free hydraulic system. It takes just about 1 minute per wheel, because I suck fluid through until it is pure and clean from the new bottle. The bottle sits on your master cylinder reservior, and automatically keeps the reservior full so you cannot accidentaly suck air back into the system.

It cost about $300 for the whole kit from my Mac Tools truck guy.

urbman

I use the Phoenix gizmo...
Best thing since sliced bread...

AFrikinGoodTime

Earl's solo-bleeders are inexpensive and work great. They cost arpx. $9 per pair (you need two pairs of course). I can bleed the brakes MYSELF with the wheels already off in about 10 mins. Absolutely no air in the lines. Just refill the reservoir with fluid, cap it off, crack open one solo-bleeder at a time per reservoir refill(right rear first, LR, RF, then left front last) and pump brake pedal to the floor about 20 times, close solo-bleeder,then refill reservoir and move to the next wheel. Just make sure you don't ever pump all of the fluid out of the reservoir otherwise you will have to start all over. again aprox. 20 pumps at a time should be enough to bleed the line you are working on without draining the reservoir.

I have these on all three of my vehicles.

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

$300 is a little steep at the current time. i might purchase it in the next couple months though. had it been last month no prob. i have purchased the entire suspension (hotchins energy, etc...) for my car so money is tight urbman how was your experince with the phoenix v-12? did you do the entire system? is it good for a completely dry system? let me know your opions on this budjet bleeder

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

AF,

i have the speed bleeders. i did just like you did and still find a spongyness in the pedal?? i know it has to be air somewhere that makes the pedal spongy. the entire system new (except hardlines). that's why i think that nothing short of a pressure bleeding might dislodge some air stuck somewhere in the lines?????



AF, email me at mystikkal_69@hotmail.com with your bleeding procederes. maybe i did something wrong???? thnaks

Tom Keliher

You can get the Vacula system for less money if you shop around. Tool trucks (Mac, Snap On) are notorious for selling their things at full retail.

AFrikinGoodTime

Speed bleeders are different than solo-bleeds. Russels vs. Earl's. Earls are spring loaded on the outside where as the Russells have the springs inside the valve body. When you crack open the Russells, the threads require a teflon seal as to not suck air back into the line- they only work once or twice from what I've witnessed first hand. When you crack open the Earl's units, the spring is on the backside of the valve and will always maintain pressure against the fluid source in the caliper, thus not having to rely on any teflon seal on the threads.

Earl's product are alot better quality/engineered than Russells. I have heard of countless failures of Russell products. I have never heard of one single problem with Earl's. This pertains mostly to their brake line kits.

The hardest problem with Earl's is they don't have an application chart to order from. You have to take your original valves into them so they can match 'em up. If you have the Iron brake calipers (Non-1LE) the Solo-Bleed Part # is 280029 for a pair.
I have a '87 RS Camaro and this part # will fit both front and rear calipers.(I have an '87 Iroc rearend in it with discs)

They also sell through Summit. Part # EAR-280029. Aprox $9 per pair.

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

doh.... i guess that's why those russell speed bleeders don't work as anticipated. i guess i'll stick with the pressure bleeding. thanks for the great info AF.

chevyguy1969

iTrader: (7)

Hey AFrikinGoodTime, does that part number just apply to the front calipers? I have a '88 IROC with rear disc and was wondering which part# it is for the rear.

powermite

Guys,
Another tip is to blled the calipers starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder.
So its passenger side rear,then drivers rear,pass front and finally drivers front

PM

AFrikinGoodTime

I believe you have the performance brake package on that year of car (the 1LE package)I could not answer that question for you but my guess would be that GM would have used the same bleed valves. The same #280029 fits on my front calipers on my '89 chev 1/2 ton truck. It has a Currie 9" rearend with their sport truck disc brakes on the rear and those valves are different of course.

chevyguy1969

iTrader: (7)

Quote:

I believe you have the performance brake package on that year of car (the 1LE package)

The 1LE pkg was only available on B4C and 1LE cars. I have the single piston iron calipers at all 4 corners. All of them even take the same brake pad so I am guessing the bleeder part number is the same. I think I am going to order them from Summit tonight and give them a try.

I WILL GET MY REAR BRAKES WORKING OR DIE TRYING!!!! LITERALLY

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

chevyguy i know how u feel..... freaking rear brakes.

AFrikanGoodTime

My brakes are up to par 100% as for being new and state of the art for iron calipers. I have the same crossdrilled rotors and carbon pads that I run on my other two vehicles, new booster, new master cylinder, new braided flex lines, and positively no line blockage or air in the lines.

In comparision to my other cars with the same exact set-ups, this proportioning valve definately is a problem in these cars. My fronts will lock with proper effort but no matter how hard I try to unload the rearend and hit the binders, they will not lock----not even close. Again, the rest of the system is top notch and this stock proportioning valve is definately the problem.

My next step is to try the modification trick to the rear plug of the valve. Everyone claims this helps. If not, then I'm just going to yank the valve altogether and install an aftermarket bais valve on the rear line to dial things myself. I can't believe with as many of these cars on the road that nobody offers an aftermarket direct bolt-in proportioning valve that will correct this problem.

flotsamm

I have on order one of these:

http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html#brakebleedingkit

Hopefully I'm not wasting my 35 bucks! If anyone has comments on it good or bad I'd appreciate it. I know its cheap, but as long as it works well I'll be happy?

Thanks