1988-305-tbi

i've been searching but to no luck. im looking for some perf. pads, i dont care about noise or dust or any of that other bull i just want some pads that stop my car all the auto zone padds are worthless.


my brakes are pretty new: rotors/master cylinder/ calipers/ brake lines, and the car stops like some one soaked the brake pads in wd-40

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Don't care about dust? EBC Greenstuff or Redstuff if you want more aggressive pads but they take some heat to come alive. Greenstuff are very aggressive for the street and will do the work but dust like hell.

Ed

1988-305-tbi

thanks for the reply ed, sounds like good stuff, but i need a pad that always good, hot or cold, i've been lookin around some more and might try Hawk HPS pads $50 for the fronts or $90 i still havent figured out which PT # i need

anyone use hawk hps pads ?

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

I have them on my '93 Z71 and they work well on it, with little dust to boot. I always suggest them for a low dust option but since you didn't mind it I went with EBC. I have EBC on my 1LE Iroc and man that thing can stop.

You can't go wrong with HPS.

Ed

RWB____s

Hawk HP "+plus" pads are the best for street and track

1988-305-tbi

OMG thankyou Jesus......... hawk hps = Bueno my car stops like no other on a dime, im still giggling like a little girl. long story short Hawk hps best $40 bucks the camaros ever seen

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Would the HPS pads be good for autocross and for a daily driver?

I have disk front and drum rear... would changing the rear to disk make much of a differnace?

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

If you really want to be able to stop, I highly suggest a C5 brake upgrade.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

1. Since these cars dont have ABS will the extra braking power make me slide more often?
2. If I change rear to disk brakes or do the C5 swap I would be bumped out of the stock class for autocrossing.
3. How much would the C5 swap cost?
4. Do they make HPS brake shoes?
5. Any idea how much the HPS brake pads/shoes would cost?
6. Would changing my drum rear to a stock disk rear make a noticable differance in braking?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Even though I autocross my car, would EBC Yellowstuff be overkill?

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

1. Probably not if you don't lock it up. The thing with C5s is that you have to have 17" wheels, which usually means you will also have wider tires than the stock 215 weenies (wider tires also help you stop better because they have more traction and won't let go as easily).

2. I'm not sure, you'd have to ask them.

3. I got mine from www.bigbrakeupgrade.com. Ebmiller also sells brake kits.

4/5. I'm not sure.

6. Depends on what you do. I swapped in a disk brake rear end with the cast iron brakes and I didn't notice hardly any change. If you get 1LE or LS1 rear brakes, you will probably notice more of a change.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I was originally thinking about converting my car to a 1LE and then buying high performance brake pads. Any advice on that? And what exactly did the 1LE package include other than four wheel disk brakes? Would swapping the rear drum axle for a rear iron caliper axle make a differance?

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

Unless getting LS1 or C5 brakes will kick you out of the stock class, I wouldn't bother with the 1LE brakes.

If I remember right, the 1LE has PBR 4 wheel disks, 145mph cluster, 350 TPI, 36mm front sway bar, 24mm rear sway bar, and better springs.

If you can get a disk rear end for cheap or free, I would get it. You won't notice the difference between the cast iron disks and the stock drums, but you'll need a disk brake rear to upgrade to LS1 rear brakes later on if you want/need to.

onfire

Performance Friction would do the trick as well.

Rabi C.

Duracell Bunny

Not be cause a fight, this is intended as a helpful tip. Performance friction pads are terrible compared to HPS+ pads or EBC greens. THey just do not come on a low pedal pressure-then they bite with more effort and are too grabby and hard to modulate.

THe best pads for street use daily as wel as hard autox and EVEN "light" track road course use (good for a few laps of screwing around) are Stillen MetalMatrix pads from Stillen.com. THey DO NOT leave pad buildup on the rotors, The dust mild (I have never thought of it as a problem) and they have no warm up problem (they are decent when cold). THe Stillen pads remain predictable through the heat range and have a fantastic sweet spot for deep braking pedal modulation. I use them on all of my cars. Stillen was just out of them for my ElCamino so I ran to AZ and grabbed a quick temp set of PF pads to surfice- PF are a pain in the *** to drive with. I hionestly say I can not stand driving the car with them on.

Duracell Bunny

To the original poster,

As for the "stickiest brake pads? You would not want them for the street. The would require warming up to operating temps of about 300* minimum and staying there (impossible for street use) and the friction material is so abrassive it would tear up your rotors 10X faster and you do not have the tire traction to sustain their max potential without just locking up.

The best pads for a car that sees any street use at all is Stillens. I also forgot to add in the above post that they are also quiet and do not moan like many other performance street pads do.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

What does "good for a few laps" mean? Because for autocross i do about a 1 min run with very hard braking and then i wait another 15-20 min before i make my next run.

Also, i was thinking that buy upgrading to disk (even if its iron) instead of drum, that would allow me to buy brake pads instead of shoes. Since disks allow for pads, and pads provide better braking, I thought that the iron calipers with high perf brake pads would be way better than iron with shoes.
Am I thinking correctly?

Are you talking about Stillen high performance pads or the Xtreme high performance pads?

On another note, sorry for jacking your thread, 1988-305-tbi.

Duracell Bunny

"Good for a few laps" on a road course is far beyond autox . Autox you are not even getting your temps up near fade. You may get up to about 500* in autox. One lap on a road course such as Calif Speedway 2.8mile circuit (not the entire outside oval, part oval part infield), or Willows, Walkins Glen, Etc...a road course... you would be good for a few laps of screwing around. You will breach temps more like 8-900* even on street tires and sustain those temps. Autox you have a little 60 second blast at low speeds and then the car sits and cools,

Basically these brakes will fade along the lines of how quickly a good set of street tires would fade on a road course. You can get about 3 laps and then the core heat gets too extreme they will not cool enough to work- Both tires and brakes- at that point you'd better have racing rubber and racing brake compounds.

Most cars are lucky to ever reach 60mph on an autox course. It is common to brake for 130 to 30 on a road course- far more demanding, and most importantly a sustained heat when running in aprox 2 min laps non stop.
I was a rare exception when I used to compete in autox. I would sometimes breach speed of 110mph, but even then brake pads were not a problem on a 60 sec run as opposed to light track road course use.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

what about the above? could you answer those for me?

Duracell Bunny

Yes disc brakes are far better than drum brakes. You'll need to change ytour Combo Valve to a disc/disc unit rather than the disc/drum unit. Your master cylinder is fine and does not need changing.

I am talking about Stillen Metal Matrix pads. I would not use the Mintex pads for street use. Metal matris are Stillens own "in house" pads where as the Mintex Xtremes are just other company pads they sell. I have 0 experience with Mintex' new compounds designed for so called 0* cold use, but watch out for the old snake oil sales pitch because they probably moan like hell at low speeds or squeak badly like most race compounds do until hot.

I ran Stillen Metal Matrix pads on my car for years and they were fantastic. I only upgraded my brakes because of the crappy clicking noise notorious to iron Delco Morraine calipers- they make the car sound junky idling though a parkinglot at low speeds.

In case you are not familiar with me around here or my car, here's a preview of what I built. 60-0 in 102 ft. Factory IROC does it in 147 ft.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/518752/6
If I could go to stillen pads for my current Camaro application I would in a heartbeat. Stillen does not make a pad to fit my calipers. The closest thing I can get is EBC Greens but the leave pad buildup and still are not as smooth and deep sweet spot as the Stillens, plus the EBC's fade easier even with my extreme setup and its heat dissapation qualities. Trust me, go to Stillen pads.

Ed Miller is the guy around here you want to contact for disc brake upgrade packages. Good guy, good prices on factory 1LE and Vette brake upgrades.

83Firebird420

id say do the rear disc setup. if they didnt stop better than drums we would still have front and rear drums on all our cars, that and they dont need andjusting, are less noisy, and a hell of a lot easier to change.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

ok but how hard is it to get a "combo valve" for disc/disc. and should i buy one of eb miller's kits or go out and buy a disk rear from a junkyard?

Blue_Thunder

iTrader: (1)

Well if price is not an issue then I would go with a full Brembo brake system or Wildwood brake system.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Thats exactly what I dont want to do. I dont want to change them to slotted or drilled rotors of the same size or bigger because then I will be bumped out of the stock class for autocrossing. So I was thinking I would convert my car to a 1LE setup so I can stay stock in the eyes of the tech inspectors.

Trust me, if I wasnt into autocrossing, I would go all out on my car in so many ways...

Blue_Thunder

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to get slotted or cross drilled rotors. Just buy the calipers and pads. And if you can't do that then buy the pads brembo uses. The sport package brake pads for my car were $79.00 per axle. Brembo doesn't make performance rotors for my car because my rotors and hubs are one piece in the front. But the calipers they have for my car are 6 piston calipers.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

You mean that clicking noise I hear isn't something seriously wrong with my rear axle? Oh sweet joy and rapture. Well, I already bought a ten bolt with the new brakes.... Might as well install it. :P

Duracell Bunny

IF the new 10bolt has 1LE PBR calipers then you are good. If it still has the crappy Delco Marraine Iron calipers ten there is not a thing in the world you can do to 'perminantly' get rid of the reoccuring clicking noise of the brake pads inside the calipers. It is AN INHERENT DEFECT in the design.

It can be subdued temporaryly by bending the brake pad tabs into a tighter psition BUT they will loosen again over time and heat and start to rattle around in there again. I even tried putting goop on the tab ears of the outside pads (outside is non floating) but that is still temporary fix for maybe 3000 miles at most and the rattle comes back.

My brake always 'work' great, but I ended up replacing my entire front and rear setups after years of voodoo home remedies that all failed and the crappy noise always returned.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

It has the PBR calipers. I made sure of that before I bought it. I'm so glad that the noise was my brakes and not my axle though. After the ten bolt is in there for a while I'm gonna drop on the Wilwood 4th gen rear kit, and probably Ed's front kit. I'd go with that six piston bad boy you have, but that's a lot of scratch. Same as I'd love those Varishocks you're gonna get, but that's all way down the line for me.

Oh, back to topic! >.> <.<

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

ok, scr** the whole I want to stay in the stock class... I got a ride in a C5 corvette that races and it puts my car to shame. Any idea how much a C5 brake upgrade would cost?

Why do people have, for example, 14" front rotoars with lets say 6 piston calipers and in front, and in the back they have a 13" rotor and a 4 piston caliper. Why not just have the same front/rear setup so you get more braking power? Does it cause the back to lock up sooner? Is it just not needed?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Your front brakes do 70% of the work. Hell, if you have the same issue with my delco moraine iron calipers, then your front brakes do 95% of the work.