crrllmich

Ok my rear brakes still arnt working as I had hoped.

I am running a brand new 4 wheel disc prop valve, a ls1 master, fine lines hardlines, earls flex lines, brand new alum. 1LE calipers and my brakes still dont feel like they should.

As for the rear brakes they barely stop the rear wheels when the rear end is off the ground on jackstands just idleing.

My other question is are LT1 rear rotors different then 1LE aluminum rear set ups. My brake set ups is making a nice metal on metal sound driving down the road and I dont see anything rubbing.

Last thing I havnt replaced is the booster. Is this possibly it?

gkrynick22

iTrader: (1)

Hey still waiting for my shift kit or refund. What happened??? You don't answer PM's or E-mails. I bought it early december and now it is April!

crrllmich

I wish you would PM me instead of posting in my threads.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

They interchange with each other and are only different on the axle flange diameter. There should be no issues with them. If you definitely hear metal on metal, keep looking . What pads are you running out back?

Ed
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Agreed. Whether the OP is in the wrong or not this isn't the place to conduct this business, take it to a more personal area to discuss please.

Ed

crrllmich

Same pads you sold me with them?

Seems both sides are making the noise just e passenger side is much more prominate.

crrllmich

Bump still need help.

crrllmich

Bump...still dealing with this problem...

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Still having the grinding noise as well or just the poor performance? Maybe the LS1 master is clogged? Have you made any changes to it since you last posted?

Ed

crrllmich

Front brakes stop the car ok peddle feels stiff...really have to press hard to get the car to stop. Still got grinding noise. Only thing I have done is another system flush. Was thinking on getting a brake pressure gauge.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Subscribed. Ive been having the same problem with mine as well. Ive gotten many suggestions as to what the cause can be. You have new calipers so you beat me by a bit. I have a constant grinding noise going down the road too. New pads, regreased slide pins, e brake cable disconnected entirely to eliminate that. I still have yet to adjust the freeplay of the ebrake lever. That could be causing my problem..but if that doesnt work im going to just rebuild the calipers and cross fingers. Also my brakes barely stop the rear wheels as well. Im thinking of upping the pressure since i have an adjustable proportioning valve. On top of it all i have uneven wear on the rotors, outside diameter is getting cleaned only.

91 1LE

iTrader: (1)

Check your rotor-to-caliper bracket clearence. Remove the wheel and re-install 2 lugs to hold the rotor against the axle. Remove the caliper (just the caliper and not it's mounting bracket. Measure rotor to bracket clearence. Its a tight fit on some if the rotors have been replaced. The clearence should be equal on both sides of the rotor. The only way to adjust these is to add or remove the factory shims that are between the axle housing and the caliper bracket mount. These shims have been discontinued by GM for a number of years now so your only option is to make new ones using your old ones as templates. The factory service manual gives the acceptable clearences if needed. This problem is also the cause of the rubbing/grinding noises some of these cars make when turning.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

The abutment (caliper bracket) may be slightly touching the rotor. This was a problem on some factory cars. GMs solution was to remove the brackets and grind down the bracket where it was touching the rotor. I had to do this when I put my rear LS1s on.

I dunno if this helps, but check it out