hicksport

Just thought I would share my swap with the board. I used the 14 inch hybrid kit from Kore3. Thanks to Tobin at www.kore3.com for the fast and friendly service, and the great parts. This swap took about three hours in my driveway with what I consider normal hand tools. Had some help from a couple of friends, too- thanks to Zach and Collin for photos and "hand me this, hand me that" !

Started with this:

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First things first get the car jacked up and on jack stands. Remove the front wheels and pick a side to start on. Remove caliper and rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way for now. You will cut the ears off the spindle that hold the original caliper bolts. I failed to take a pic of the spindle before I cut it but you can see where the cuts are made.

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After you have cut the spindle with a cut-off wheel (or whatever tool you choose), use a file or tiger wheel to smooth the cuts as best as you can- you dont want any sharp edges on the spindle. After you get that done you'll need a couple of drill bits: one .334'' small, and one .472'' large.

The three taps that you need are: M10x1.5 small and M14x2.0 tap. You will need a bottom tap for the small size, as the small holes are blind and you will need all the threads you can get. Remove the dust shield and discard. The two rear dust shield holes are the ones that will be used; drill the top hole out with the small drill bit, but don't go all the way through- just drill to the original depth. This one is probably the biggest pain. (It is recommended to take the spindle off and do this in a drill press but not necessary.)

Drill the back and or rear hole out with the large bit. Try your best to keep the drill parallel to the spindle shaft while drilling to make sure the holes are straight. Then tap the holes to the corosponding sizes. Use plenty of thread lube while doing this.

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Now that you have your spindle mods done, bolt the abutment bracket to the spindle with the supplied hardware. Torque the bolts to 125 ftlbs for the large one and 40 ftlbs for the small one.

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Now grab your new hubs and assemble them if you didn't order them assembled. Its just like putting new bearings and seals in the stock disks/hubs. Once you have them assembled grease the spindle shaft and slide the hub onto the shaft. Tighten the spindle nut to your likeness.

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Once you have all of that assembled slide the rotor on the hub. Damn that looks good!!!

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Now that the rotor is in place, put the caliper on and attach it with the supplied bolts and hardware. Add Loctite and torque to 125 ftlbs. Oh yea, it's close!!!

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Now bolt your wheel on. (I had to run a 1/4 inch spacer to keep the caliper away from the spokes on the wheel.) All wheels are different and it is something that you need to measure and let Tobin know when you are ordering. I chose the c5 calipers for the cost of pads and there is very little difference between the c5 and the c6.

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Now that its all back together go for a test drive an realize that your ride is slow, at least thats the conclusion that I came to!!! I thought I knew something about braking but wow the brakes stop so much better than the fatory stuff its not even comparable. I had a 2000 SS with better rotors and hawk pads and this car stops better with only the front upgraded.

I hope this helps everyone make the right choice for brake upgrades before power upgrades, stopping is key to performance.