BT85

Hey guys, I took my car to my mechanic and was unable to bleed the rear brakes. Both brakes do not work in the back. He said it was the calipers and I just want to make sure hes right before I put new calipers and pads on myself. what you guys think?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Probably not the calipers.

It's the rubber line.

THe way those fail is, they rust on the inside, from the moisture that brake fluid attracts into itself; and the already microscopic hole in the fitting for the fluid, gets blocked.

Try that before calipers.

If the one in the rear is like that, the ones in front, which have been subject to the EXACT SAME conditions for the EXACT SAME length of time, are probably in the EXACT SAME state. Change em all.

BT85

As one of my friends said maybe he meant that the caliper was clogged? I think I'm gonna change the rubber tubing and see if it makes it better. Any place or website I could find it or the name of the tube?

BT85

http://thirdgenranch.com/-strse-1009...ake/Detail.bok

would this be the correct part for the rear?

b1k1w1

take caliper off push in piston if it goes in its good check slides if not stuck clean slides put together if piston does not go in open bleeder then try again if it still does not go in replace. Easy way just because you have one bad does not mean all rare to have all

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No, not really; it'll be something more along these lines.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...223_10081_1711

Not the caliper. Leave the calipers alone until you FIRST repair the system to a point where fluid is AT LEAST delivered to the calipers. THEN if something else is still wrong, maybe work on the calipers.

Since the problem is rust, a form of long-term deterioration to which the parts has been subjected, and all such parts in the system have been subjected to the EXACT SAME conditions for the EXACT SAME length of time, they are probably all in the EXACT SAME situation by now. If not already clogged, they are WELL on their way. If your system has had enough moisture in it for long enough to corrode ONE hose that bad, then it's probably corroded THE OTHERS similarly. If you need to replace ONE for that failure, the others aren't far behind and should be replaced as well; especially as CHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP as the fix is. Not worth cheeeeeeeeeeeeping out and having to crawl up under the car next month when the weather is even worse, to do one more; and the month after that, to do another; and so on.

Since your problem is BOTH rear wheels, I'd suspect the one at the rear end pumpkin, that connects the entire rear axle braks system to the rest of the car. Single point of failure, accounts for all observed problems.

Study my signature carefully for a glimpse into a useful mental discipline.

b1k1w1

was not saying you where wrong just giving away to check them why he is in there, it does no good to have new lines if calipers are bad too. And it is rare for all four to be bad because they are coated and it takes damage. You should not replace something because you can but because it broken. And if you want to know if it in the line keep full of fluid take apart step by step till it starts bleeding because it could be valves,abs, master or just he just could not get bleeder lose with out braking it. Witch would be new caliper if you still want it bleed see it all the time. Not saying your wrong just trying to help does not hurt to check if it free and your carefull

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

True... except that bad calipers can't keep the fluid from coming to them.. Nothing that can go wrong with calipers accounts for his observed symptoms.

Ummm....... NO. THey're not "coated"; if you LOOK inside one, you'll see that the inside of the fitting at the end of the rubber hose, where the hose crimps onto it, is STEEL, and has a little itty bitty tiny hole in in for the fluid to go through.

The car doesn't have valves (except the combo valve, which like calipers, CANNOT POSSIBLY except in the wildest unlikeliest possible circumstance, account for the observation at hand, and if it DOES, the WHOLE brake system would be suspect), doesn't have ABS, and he didn't say anything about stuck bleeder screws. If his post had said something like "can't get bleeder screws loose", then, yeah; but that's not what he said.

The rubber lines failing as described is INCREDIBLY common and usual. First thing to go for when they symtpoms ARE WHAT THE OP DESCRIBED THEM TO BE.

The OTHER symptoms commonly seen that points to a rubber line, is when you push the brakes and the car pulls violently one way, maybe slowly returns toward normal as the car comes to a stop; then when you take your foot OFF the brakes, it pulls THE OTHER way for a while; and/or, when one caliper/pads/rotor gets hot. Obviously that's what happens when it's one of the front ones that's bad. But in this case, it's the ONE SINGLE one that goes from the car body to the rear axle, which affects BOTH rear brakes.

I'm not saying you're "wrong" about needing calipers - he very well may need calipers TOO - but calipers AREN'T the casue of the symptom he is reporting. He needs the rubber line at the center of the rear axle, similar to the link I posted except the right one for his particular car.

Again, see my signature for a helpful mental discipline.

b1k1w1

Yeah i forgot i was a mechanic. so check valve yes could be stuck or proportion valve. does he have abs he did not say. nor did he say he know why it would not bleed. The worst thing to do is just throw parts at it. And again i just gave him a way to check it. also just because happened on your car does not make it common. so advise check it first