blakecharles

I just cut my spindles and need a bit of info before I drill and tap.

So will I need to drill and tap for 2 different sizes? I don't know much about threads and all. I have Ed's LS1 swap bracket (flynbye).

Top
7/16-20 (tap), 25/64 (drill bit)

Bottom
M10 x 1.5mm (tap), 8.5mm (drill bit)

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

http://lukeskaff.com/?page_id=396

blakecharles

finished.... my above post is accurate if anyone else wanted to know (using ed's bracket).

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Why would you use two different sized fasteners?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i think its a clearance issue with certain swaps?

I used 1/2-13 for both holes on my baer setup

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

That is kind of scary. I can't think of a single caliper that is held on with a bolt smaller than 7/16", but then again I really don't know much on the subject. I hope someone did the math on that one. A properly torqued M10 grade 12.9 bolted joint has less than 75% the strength of a properly torqued 7/16" grade 8 bolted joint. Anyone know what the caliper hole size is the LS1 calipers?

I ended up using 1/2"-20 for my bracket to spindle connection. The Brembos accept an M14 bolt. What size are the holes on the Baers?

blakecharles

Bringing this thread back....

Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?



Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.

blakecharles

maybe I bit off more than I can chew here... I also bought new wheel bearings and seals but never installed before... How do I grease them? How do they go on?

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

That is the steering stop. With that particular bracket design you will need to remove the steering stop. You also have stops in the steering box. But you need to check for clearance to make sure nothing hits before you drive the car.

88 5.7 Iroc-Z

yes, that little ear is supposed to be cut off. As for the bearings, you should look online for a tutorial on packing wheel bearings. As for how they go on, once you take a look at the inside of the hub you should get the idea, tapered sides facing each other

z 28 jari

iTrader: (1)

I filed half moon shaped notch to spindle steering stop,and bolted caliper carrier to bracket with allen head bolts.I want to save steering stops because front wheels turned to max,brake hose banjo bolts will hit to A-arm steering stop rivets.And of course I had to make ~2cm long extensions to A-arm steering stops.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Did you use a button head? If so, what size and what torque?

The biggest problem with button heads is you can't torque them to spec due to the small tool. They are also not typically considered for structural applications.

z 28 jari

iTrader: (1)

If i remember correctly,bolt torque was 137lb/ft+loctite.It was cap head, grade 12.9

blakecharles

a few more noob questions
- should I be using LS1 or IROC bearings + seals?
- what is the torque spec for the bracket bolts (EBmiller/flynbye)? should I user perm loctite (red)?

EBmillers bracket came with no instructions... I am not as intuitive as others and everything about this bracket that seems to be obvious to everyone else... is not to me. Well I for the most part guessed right but want to be sure. Like most people, I am a visual learner. I searched but found no clear answers to the questions above.

blakecharles

bump. anyone??

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

You should be using the same bearings and seals you use for the car. So it would be the IROC bearings. Inner should be SET6, outer should be SET34. Can't remember the part number of the seal off hand. Get Timken bearings. Make sure to change out the bearing race.

Who did you buy the hubs from?

Bolt torque is determined by the size of the bolt. What is the thread size of the bolts?

Before you mentioned 7/16-20 top and M10x1.5mm. That is quite a strange combination. Not just is SAE / Metric but one is a fine thread and the other course. Just doesn't make any sense to me. One is grade 8 zinc plated, the other is stainless?? grade?

Is the bottom bolt stainless? Where do you get it? What grade?

Assuming the top bolt is 7/16-20, grade 8. The torque spec is 75ftlbs dry or 70ftlbs with loctite.

The bottom bolt is harder b/c its a button head which are not generally considered structural and don't typically have standard torque specs. This is because the allen socket is very small and is typically the limiting factor in tightening the bolt. This is the same reason why button heads are typically made of a lower grade of steel. If it is stainless the spec would be somewhere around 22 ftlbs dry. If it is made from grade 5 steel, the torque spec would be somewhere around 33 ftlbs dry

As far as bolt retention. My preference in order is:

1. lock wire
2. Nordlocks
3. Loctite red
4. Loctite blue

Also, I will point out that it looks like you are using a washer under the lower bolt head that is way to large for the bolt size. Get yourself the proper sized washer.

blakecharles

I got the hubs from bigbrakeupgrade... will post again with the other info.... the bracket and all the bolts came with EBmillers Bracket. I think I'm doing a lot wrong, that's why I made this thread.

taken from the following thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/newr...eply&p=4734502

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The hubs didn't come with bearings and seals?

You aren't doing anything wrong. You just chose to buy the components piece by piece and now have a few things to figure out. Nothing wrong with that.

Now to be of greater help. Can you mock up the caliper and tell me if the button head is completely necessary on the lower bolt? Will a normal bolt head fit instead? What about a smaller bolt head like a 12pt?

John

blakecharles

Good question... I will let you know soon... (no, it didn't come with bearings and seals)... I got some Moog bearings and seals from Kragen.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Cut them off and use a big allen head bolt, it will take about the same position as the original steering stop. Never had a problem with it.

jersyboyy

iTrader: (8)

ok guys im trying to get my rotors cut for hubs to do the 2010 brembo brakes. What have you who have gone this route been charged? Im getting 250, 300, 350....DUDE NEW BILLET HUBS with bearings seals and longer studs are 320...any one know anyone in NJ that isnt ridiculous.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Try someone who has a brake lathe. This is a pretty simple operation that doesn't require a full machinist lathe. My local engine builder has a brake lathe and charges $50/each.