duderjay

Hi guys

This is what I have done. I put in a 140 amp powermaster alternator, a optima battery, 2 4x6 infinity speakers for the front and 2 6x9 infinity kappa speakers in the rear. The car cam with an older alpine stereo. I put crank it up and the damn lights in the stereo dim in beat with the damn drums/bass.

I am guessing i need an amp, also I'd like to run a sub as well. Any ideas on an amp for everythings. or do I need two? also any ideas where to mount said amps out of sight and out of mind?

I am also thinking I may need to upgrade some of the wiring as well.

Thanks for any help and info.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

With a 140 amp alt and optima battery you should NT be dimming the lights with 4 speakers and a head unit!!!!! Make sure your wiring is up to scratch (big enough).

As for amps and sups. You could buy a 4 channels (Pioneer) and mount it under the pass. seat.

All you need is one sub (say 10") and mount it on at the bottom of the trunk with a protective cover on top. With the right sub you don't really need two.

Have a look at www.woofersetc.com They have good prices and shipping is fairly cheap into Canada.

Good luck........

duderjay

I am gonna have to dig around and check out all my wiring good. If the rad fan kicks in and I turn on the head lights like tonight voltage goes down quite a bit. Guess I'll have to check all the connections and wires under the hood for any voltage drops.

Then I guess I can play with the stereo system

hellsatan

Did you do the BIG 3? if not DO IT! ur light problem will go away.. or atleast thats what every1 else tells me I will find out tomorrow for sure!

edit: 4 speakers and a Headunit shouldn't be dimming your lights.. something wrong with your wiring. Check you connections for corrosion and junk. (happened to me) But if you are gonna put a amp in do the big 3.
You shouldn't even need the altima or the big alt for that setup.. stock alt and battery should run that no problem.

enswrob

definaly some loose/corroded connections.. id check those.. i have small...400 watt amp running just fine no power drop with a stock alt my lights don't flash. sounds like a bad ground(s). when u changed to the 140 amp alt did u use the stock pulley for camaro.. or did u use the pull it came with.. that could be an issue also..

duderjay

ok guys

its the lights in the stereo that dim in beat with the bass, those speakers are drawing quite a bit of juice.

The reason I put in a 140 watt amp was cus I went through a champion alt and then bought another and this one is crappy. Son on advice on a automotive buddy of mine I bought a better amp and on a whim bought the optima battery.

So last night in traffic with the new alt and the new battery and no stereo on the coolinng fan kicks in with the head lights the voltage drops way low and then I am like wtf.

So now I have to check connections and voltage drops across these connections. I think that with lower voltages getting to head lights and coolings fans that the amps pick up to make up for the loss in voltage and run everything.

Like I said thanks for the help and all the input. And this week I will be tracing out some electrical.

camarobird92

I would check the ground on the stereo. Make sure it is making really good contact.

And as far as the high amperage alternator, it probably makes that amperage a little higher in the rpm than your stock alternator. I used to have a HUGE system in my '92. 2 1000 watt sub amps, 1 240 watt amp for 6x9's, and a 120 watt amp for front 4x6's. With the stock alternator, my headlights would almost go completely out on the highway when the bass hit. I bought a 190 amp alternator and the problem went away as long as the motor was above 1600 RPM. At idle, the high amp alternator couldn't keep up.

I think it has something to do with the way it is wound. Either it can produce peak amperage down low, like stock, or produce a lot higher output overall, but at a higher RPM.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Might want to switch to a deep cycle (yellow top) Optima as well.

DeanJ

what is the BIG 3

The Project

iTrader: (6)

I posted this already but I'm too lazy to find it. This should be a MUST regardless of the system you install. It will eliminate a lot of question you have later on.

BIG 3

We’ll start out by explaining exactly why you’re doing this upgrade. As you should know, the bigger the power wire in your sound, video or lighting system, the better it will perform and you should experience less dimming and/or voltage drops. The Big 3 is..

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)


2) Battery Negative to Chassis


3) Chassis to Engine Block


Replacing/adding larger wire to these three critical spots can reduce or rid your electrical system of dimming and voltage drops. Overall, giving your charging system a larger surface area to travel over, will stabilize power and relieve strain on the alternator and battery.

If you have little cash to spend on a High Output (HO) alternator at the moment.. and the thought of even buying a new/better battery is daunting to you, this is a cheap and quick solution for your voltage issues.

Each wire serves its own special purpose, so you need to upgrade/replace all three for maximum potential of this mod. The Alternator Positive to Battery Positive wire is pretty small on a stock electrical system, so quite obviously upgrading that particular wire will increase power flow from the alternator to the battery. In DC power systems, power flows negative to positive. So upgrading the main grounds is just as important as the main power wire is. And lastly, since the alternator is grounded to the engine block, you need a way to transfer that energy back into the system.

Items You Need


You’ll need a varying assortment of tools and supplies to successfully complete this job. Depending on how large your engine compartment is you’ll need between 5-10ft of wire. I recommend you use the absolute largest you can afford. 1/0awg is a very popular choice for completing this upgrade, although others have been known to use 4awg. Remember that anything over stock is still better, but while you’re under there... you might as well go big[gest].

You’ll also need several crimps sized for whatever wire you use. A normal amount would be 6. If you upgrade your stock battery terminal to something with set screws, you’ll need one less crimp.


To get the crimps on the wire you can use several different methods. I prefer to use either a giant crimping tool

or a table vice

Either one will work fine, and there are various other methods available as well. As long as the connection is secure and not moving about. Don’t fret it. Also make sure that the whole thing is taped or covered with a rubber sleeve.

To cut large wire, most wire cutters should be up to the task. If you don’t have a set, you can use a common hacksaw, a set of tin snips or a set of bolt cutters

Again, however you cut it… just make sure that the wire has a clean edge.
If you decide to fuse the Alternator Positive to Battery Positive wire, you’ll need a fuse and fuse holder. Try to fuse for the maximum amperage of your wire.

Lastly, you’ll need an adjustable wrench, a good socket set or a few open-end wrenches to loosen any bolts or nuts that come your way.



Beginning the Project

1) Start out by disconnecting your Battery Negative. This will interrupt power through the whole system allowing you to safely work on the vehicle without danger to you or the cars more fragile electronic devices.

2) Sand down the potential grounding point for the new Chassis to Battery Negative point. This should be shiny metal when you’re done. You want as clean of a connection as possible. If you use the existing ground point you may not have to drill a new hole for a screw. Sand around it to ensure a good connection, you may also want to smear some anti-oxidation grease on the uncoated metal to prevent rust. This connection must be tight and secure when you’re done.


4) Screw the new ground wire in place but DO NOT reconnect it to the Battery Negative yet. Lay it down on a piece of cloth or paper and wait to connect it till after you finish the other elements of the project.


5) It’s time to add onto the existing Alternator Positive wire. This can be a bit tricky due to a small plastic collar around the positive lead coming off of the alt. It really only allows you to use one ring terminal terminated wire on the alt. That is perfectly fine though. Break off a little of the plastic if the extra wire refuses to fit. There should be a rubber gasket over the existing wire that will protect it.


Again, make sure that the wire is hooked snug on the terminal and not exposed to the elements.

6) Take the other end of the Alternator Positive wire and if you so choose, run it through the fuse holder. If you’ve decided to not get a fuse holder, then run it straight to the battery positive.


7) Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal.


8) The last step is the Chassis to Engine Block wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the Battery Negative to Chassis. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place.

9) Take the other end leading off of the engine block and sand a smooth place on the chassis. If you want to do more than one lead off of the block that would be fine as well. The more the merrier.


10) You’re just about done. Re-check all of the new and old connections you just fiddled with to ensure stability, safe connection and good contact. After you’ve made sure everything is safe, you may re-attach the Battery Negative wire to the negative terminal on the battery.



Congratulations! You’ve just completed the cheapest and easiest upgrade to your electrical system that there is.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I would definately have the alternator checked out by a reputable shop. I build custom alternators and one thing I have found is that manufacturers claims arent always correct, (or, are at least misleading!!) Years ago I used to own my own car audio shop and got a lot of requests for Phoenix Gold alternators (Can you say, Powermaster?). Like any good businessman I Installed the things that my customers requested. Many discharged batteries later, I did some testing and found out that, at Idle, they were barely putting out more than the stock alternator in many cases. They were putting out around their claimed output at about 3,500 rpm!! I started building my own using the stock cases and mine make their power at much lower rpm's, and are much cheaper!!! ( See my ad in "drivetrain parts for sale", for more info.) I'm not saying your powermaster is bad, I'm just saying, Check it. Good luck!!