locking out distributor
#1
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
locking out distributor
Not exactly a carb question but its something you guys would know the most about... Right now with my MSD Pro-Billet I'm running 14* initial and and biggest stop bushing which gives me 18* centrifugal (32* total for the math dumbies) Now the car doesnt idle very good with only 14* initial so I hooked up the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Car idles better but it'll still idle slightly crappy and rich. I did a little experimenting and bumped the timing up to 32* at idle. Car idles wonderful, isn't rich anymore, revs perfectly fine, etc. Now this was just a in-garage test no driving (still gotta replace the POS dead 700R4). The car is definately near impossible to start when hot with 32* initial so I'm thinking of either rigging up an ignition cutoff switch or just buying a in-car retard control.
So when do you feel its necessary to lock out a distributor? What disadvantages would this bring in a "limited" street kinda car? Do you think its something I should do?
Thanks,
Chris
So when do you feel its necessary to lock out a distributor? What disadvantages would this bring in a "limited" street kinda car? Do you think its something I should do?
Thanks,
Chris
#2
Supreme Member
I'm not a big fan of locking out the distributor for one simple reason- it's so damned difficult to start it on a warm engine. The high ammount of advance (30*+) under starting conditions will often "fight" against the starter and make you miserable.
A solution is to get a "start retard" box for you ignition system (they are available for MSD boxes and several other aftermarket ignition systems). They pull the spark back about 20* for anything under ~200 RPMs, making cranking the engine over much easier.
Another alternative is a switch that turns the ignition off and on. You start cranking with the starter to get the engine turning and then flip the switch to turn on the sparks. She fires right up. This is how a lot of the real racers do it.
A solution is to get a "start retard" box for you ignition system (they are available for MSD boxes and several other aftermarket ignition systems). They pull the spark back about 20* for anything under ~200 RPMs, making cranking the engine over much easier.
Another alternative is a switch that turns the ignition off and on. You start cranking with the starter to get the engine turning and then flip the switch to turn on the sparks. She fires right up. This is how a lot of the real racers do it.
#3
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Car: camaro z28 84
Engine: chevy 468
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch 3.25/4.11,axles moser 31 spl
Re: locking out distributor
msd-8984 :
MSD Starter Savers
Timing Controller, Analog, Starter Saver, Each
MSD Starter Savers
Timing Controller, Analog, Starter Saver, Each
#4
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Re: locking out distributor
Is it strange that I can start mine with zero problems even locked in at 38*? Never had a problem with the starter having a hard time turning the engine over.
#5
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Re: locking out distributor
sounds like he isnt running a high powered gear reduction starter. But anyways lock out the timing and then crank the motor over and then flip the ignition switch and you'll be fine. On bigger cammed engines there's no reason not to lock it out IMO.
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#8
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
Re: locking out distributor
my cam is 212/222 @ 435/460, does that rate big enough to be locked out?
I've honestly thought about it though, just don't want to have to spend any more money on my ignition...
#9
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Re: locking out distributor
I was using some stock starter pulled from a shed on mine and it still didn't have any troubles. Running small Hitachi right now that kicks it over great.
#11
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
Re: locking out distributor
good to go, i think i'll look into limiting the mechanical advance instead, thanks!
one of these days I'm gonna throw in an xe274.
one of these days I'm gonna throw in an xe274.
#13
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: locking out distributor
Hows it run right now? You can always just remove the weights, and zip tie the mechanism to fully advanced, and see how it goes. Isn't the points style similar looking? I mean, could you zip tie it? Or use twist ties, try it for a few hours and see if it runs any better.
#14
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Car: 91 RS Vert/98 Sierra9
Engine: 5.7/5.0
Transmission: 5spd/auto
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear with 3.73
Re: locking out distributor
anyone know if this starter saver will work with a stock 85z28 5.0 distributor? Pardon the stupid question since on the site it says This unit will only work with an MSD distributor or crank trigger. but is there a way to make it work with stock distributor?
#15
Supreme Member
Re: locking out distributor
get one rated for 10+amps. hooks up to the big red/pink power wire in the hei cap.
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