k's89rs

Im putting a carbeurated 350 in place of my 305 and i have a couple of questions. what fuel pressure regulator should i use? and i heard somewhere that if you unplug all of your sensors from the factory computer, you have to put the in tank fuel pump on a switch?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

mallory 3-port regulator

you shouldn't have to put the pump on a switch, i believe it's ran through the ignition switch.

you will have to by-pass your VATS module though.

stroker_SS

whats a VATS module? I took my computer completely out of my car when i did my v8 swap, i also used a th-350 so i don't have to worry about lock-up either. I figured since he's doing a similar swap(kinda)the information would be relevant for both of us. What problems am i going to have?

k's89rs

ditto to the VATS module question.

89_ho_rs

I did the swap and did not have to bypass the vats system. mine still works fine.

k's89rs

What does vats do???????

89_ho_rs

V.A.T.S Vehicle Anti Theft System.

what this does is you have a little "chip" in your key. it is actually a resistor. it makes it so you cannot start the car unless you have that key with the right resistor in it. you cannot start the car even if you brake the column and turn the key solenoid. you can bypass them.

I left my ecm in the car and I have no problems with it starting. my car was actually broken into 2 times before I bought it. They broke the column tried to start it. they also tried to mess with the wires under the dash(yes I had to replace some wireing harness) but they could not steal the car without a little knowledge of how it works.

stroker_SS

I don't even have the original key? seems as if maybe the PO did the VATS thing for me. I did take out the car alarm, because no.1 i live out in boonestown where everbody know's what their neighbor ate for breakfast(okay not really) no.2 it seemed as if half of the wires ran to nothing( i checked).

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

nope, you have a 1984, and had no VATS originally.

VATS was introduced for the first time in 1989. the VATS module is behind the left (drivers side) kick panel on the side of the car by your left foot. when you take the panel off, you'll see a big black piece of tar paper. take the tar paper off, inside is the VATS module. you'll have to disconnect it, and cross two of the wires, i can't remember which ones though, but there is only four, and it won't take much more than a 5 min trial and error with a paper clip.

k's89rs

do you guys have any advice, any problems you ran into when switching to a carb motor?

k's89rs

also what series of holley carb do i have? its a street avenger 650, vac secondaries, and electric choke. is it a 4150?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Should be a 670, if it's a Street Avenger.

It's a 4150 vacuum secondary model.

k's89rs

its a 670? wow, this guy that i bought everything from didnt tell me anything right! how would you suggest running my TV plunger to my holley? im scared of not setting it up right because it will mess up my 700r4. should i use that little bracket that it clips into on my tbi?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's a subject that has been discussed a lot on this and the Tranny forum. I've never attempted it myself, from what I understand you need to match the geometry of the orginal throttle lever on the Holley. Kits are available (again, only from what I understand - I've never tried it).

k's89rs

well i pulled my 305 out today. going to do some painting while the engine is out. three questions. which fuel line is the return and which one is the feed? or is that something im going to have to figure out. that little line going to the emission canister, can i plug that up or does that vent out the system? is there an engine bay diagram handy on the site somewhere. id like to clean some of the wires out that i dont need.
kent

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the larger of the two fuel lines is the feed line.

the charcoal cannister line can vent into the atmosphere, i'd be weary of pluging it.

if your doing a computer delete and emissions delete, the only wires you need are the ones going to a/c/heater, sending units for guages, starter wires, tach/ignition wires.

k's89rs

does anyone have a type of diagram that can show me what wires i need and what i dont need? where does the interior electronics and such get its power from?

camaronewbie

Here's the safe bet on wires - leave them all in place for now! Drop in the new motor, get everything attached that you need for it (ie oil pressure sending unit, coolant temp switch, fan switch, etc.) and leave the rest (put to the side best you can). Later, months later, when you have everything done, and working, and in tact, THEN start deleting wires.

This accomplishes 2 things - 1) you don't chop something you need, and 2) gives you wires for things you may need after the swap (ie electric choke - it needs a hot-in-run - I just connected mine to an injector wire since it was laying right there on the manifold.

You'll need wiring for your torque converter lockup switch, electric choke, and fan controls (if you use aftermarket controller), and depending on what you do, there may be other things you'll need wires for - if you don't chop 'em yet, they'll be there later for use.

I've had mine done for 3 months now - and I just today started cutting and sealing off wires from the old TBI setup.

One other suggestion - on the fan switch - get rid of it - plug that hole in the block/head (I don't remember where it's at). I never ever got one to work right. I did an external aftermarket fan controller with the probe that gets shoved between fins on the radiator, and it's great!

k's89rs

nothing can be done about the charcoal canister?
and camaro newbie ill be p.m.ing you when i start getting to the wiring part!

k's89rs

what if i left that little fuel line to the canister open would fuel come out of it? or is that just the vapors going to the canister?

camaronewbie

I'll have to look at my evap can and see what I did to it.

Nebu

you can either leave the line going to the charcoal can. open or put a fuel filter on it. both will be ok, i think.
and no, there should not come fuel out of it

nebu.

k's89rs

going back to the TV cable. this could be a tranny board question, but since i am putting a carb on and it interferes with the stock mounting and adjustment, i think it could be on the carb board too. does anyone have a pic or a good description of how they did theirs? im worried that this is going to be hindering me from getting it drivable.

k's89rs

got my engine in and fired it. i have a couple of questions though. im using an msd 6al with a hei distributor, and i have no tach. i was wondering what i need to do to get my tach working. i know there is an input in the ignition box for a tach but are the wires that went to the old distributor i can use?
also im using a mallory FPR with a return line. im wondering how much pressure is supposed to go to the carb with a return line? im reading 4 psi right now, and i was worried, then i pinched off the return line and my pressure went up to 14 psi instantly.

camaronewbie

On the Mallory FPR - you'll need to adjust up probably some - carbs are supposed to get 5-7 psi. If you pinched the return line, you'll get an increased pressure - since the fuel is being restricted to the return line, it dumps through the regulator into the carb feed line, thus increasing pressure. That's how the regulator works - it increases or decreases flow to the return line, thus allowing more or less pressure to the carb.

The third fuel line (the one you didn't feed to the FPR) you'll have to remove from the evap canister (round can behind driver headlight) and run a hose from the hardline down under the car somewhere - you'll need this to vent the tank, since your ECM is no longer in the picture, and can no longer vent the tank through the evap can. If you don't do this, your fuel pressure will be high no matter what you adjust on the FPR, as the tank pressure will become to high for the return line to actually be able to return any fuel.

IROC-Z28_CAMARO

iTrader: (4)

Just leave the canister line unpluged. I did that a year ago and have had no problems what so ever.

k's89rs

i think i will leave the line unplugged, but im going to run an extension line to the outside of the car so the vapors wont build up in the engine bay. so what can be done about the tach? i might be asking a dumb question, but will it plug into the msd box?

k's89rs

there should be a connector that went to my old distributor, can i use that on my ignition box?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

if you can foot the bill, this is about the best way to run the throttle cable and tv cables to give them the correct geometery. bracket with 700r4 tv cable bracket put me back about $100.

before i bought this bracket nearly 3 years ago, i could never quite get the geometery correct.

RacerXXX

Who makes that bracket? I'm about to do the carb changover myself and want to buy all the stuff I can to get it all right.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that piece is made by Philladelpha Racing Products, they also make the one Jeg's sells as a "Jegster" part.

k's89rs

wow! so i take it the two mounting points are at the left side carb studs? thats pretty trick!

camaronewbie

And what carbs will that correct geometry for? That's not an edelbrock you have there. For my edelbrock, I spent close to $100, $40 for a throttle bracket, and $45 for a geometry corrector from one of the tranny places. It seems to be pretty good - but it ain't no fancy blue! lol

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

mine will work with 4150/4160 holleys and all edelbrocks.

s10

what will hapen if you plug the canister?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

you talking about the charcoal canister? nothing, i don't even have one in my car car.

k's89rs

well i finally got my engine in! it went smoother than i expected. i got my TV all sorted out, my brother in law had a bracket that worked.
now i have a question. what kind of power do you think my engine can make.
gm block bored .060
forged flattop 4 valve relief pistons
cast crank and rods .010 .010
441 casting chevrolet heads 1.94 1.60 76cc chambers
hydraulic roller cam .494 intake .501 exhaust 264/270 advertized
110 lsa
roller rockers
edelbrock air gap intake
holley 4150 670 cfm
shortie headers
hooker muffler
700r4 mildly built
2.73 peg leg
msd ignition
what do you think my track times should be if my engine is tuned properly?

85z28guy

Kinda a miss match with those heads, there gonna hold you back huge. Also gonna have pretty crappy 60' times with that rear

k's89rs

i could have told you my 60' times will suck. i need gears bad! what could my e.t's be though?

bigwhiteboy279

ok guys im 17 and this is going to be my first engain swap.... i pulled the old TBI 305 and im going to 305 carb. i would go 350 but no money.. so pls dont give me a hard time about it . lol.. but about the wirring harness should i take it all out or leave it in.. i have all auto meter gauges that i plan on making a custom dash .... so what will i need and what will i dont need. i got a 600 holly and mooly distrd. and coil... i dont know really what to do next so pls help me out thx..

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Dude, you either need to , or start your own thread with your specific questions.

k's89rs

so you have a non computer controlled distributor? a carb, a manifold? do you have a fuel pressure regulator, or are you going to have a mechanical fuel pump? do you have an automatic, or a stick? if you have an automatic do you have anyway to lock up your torque converter?
i left my wiring harness in for now, it was going to be too much for me to do when i put the engine in. ill do it later, it wont hurt anything sitting there....