Jammin'Trey

Hey guys I have a 350
.030 over
Crank turned down .010
Zero decket
Hyperuretic flat top pisons with valve reliefs
882 heads, freshly punched out to 2.02 and 1.60, mildly ported.
Crane thumper cam...
Adv/Dur: 287/305
Intake/Exhaust Lift: .489/.476
Im not running Roller rockers.


Right now I have a torker II and a edelbrock 600 cfm carb. Probably the crappiest setup I could have.

Im thinking a Holly 650 DP and a Edelbrock Performer RPM.

Any suggestions? I was told this motor would make 350 Horse no problem. I cannot get the motor to idle in D witha a 1375 stall (stock). What kid of converter should I get, was looking into a 2400-2700k Jegs stall for my TH-350...

Bigseth

iTrader: (11)

650 dp and performer RPM should work out nicely.

Seth

Jammin'Trey

I really wish I could afoord a speed demon 650. vaccum sec. And what size stall>

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Double pumper would be fine. 3500 stall would get it moving off the line.

Jammin'Trey

thats what I was thinking too but for streetabilty I will go with a 2700k stall.

turbo11g

I would just switch to the 650 dp and leave your current intake on. The performer is a lower rpm intake. With that much stall you will want the single plane intake. Maybe even switch out your rockers to a 1.6 ratio. Just a thought. What rear gears are in the car? What ignition? What do you want this car to do?

5678TA

the RPM is made for a little higher rpm than the regular performer so it will do just fine, and most likely a lot better than the torker 2.. plus the motor will run out of steam probably near 6k so a single plane is useless..

even compared to the MUCH better victor jr intake, the RPM is far better at anything under 4k.. the vic jr. comes on around 4500 but the gains are soo minimal that its not worth losing the average numbers down low.. if you are spinning anywhere in the mid to upper 6k+ range than a single plane will be worth using.. and the torker is maybe a step above the original performer..

650DP and RPM will be great for you

84'B.A.T.A.

iTrader: (2)

I agree the holley dp and an rpm will work out great for you, as far as 1.6 rockers go there great if your springs can take the extra lift, also for the cam your running any stall 2400 or higher stall will work great.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What's your definition of "streetability"?

3500 would be fine on the street.

The real killer is the 882 heads. Gotta go.

Jammin'Trey

I know, They are redone so they are OK..... and a a little port work has been done to them. I really want a set of AFR aluminum heads....

I guess My knowlege says that if it stalls at 3500 its pretty slippery until 300k or 3300k...? I have never had a stall converter befor...?

wrsjr

Performer RPM Air Gap and 650DP. Look around some of the used racing parts websites. I found me a Q-Series 650DP Quickfuel for a little under $400 that was practically new.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

Performer RPM Air Gap FTW.........

Jammin'Trey

ok, cool. well I have descided on a holley 650 DP a 3k stall and a performer rpm intake...

84'B.A.T.A.

iTrader: (2)

im glad to hear that you made a decision, and with a high stall you will notice that when cruising around it will feel like the tranny is slipping a bit but thats perfectly normal.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

With a higher stall converter (which is what it is, not a "stall converter" - all converters stall somewhere, and that varies with the torque your engine puts out), the RPMs to move the car will be higher, but it's not like it won't move until you hit 3000 RPMs. Just like the car will move at less than 1200 RPMs with a stock 1200 RPM stall converter.

It'll feel a little funny at first, but you get used to it quickly.

Jammin'Trey

ok, Would a 3500 be the same feel as a 2500 on normal driving? The main problem I have is my stock converter doesnt allow my car to idle in gear... or could be the tranny is reall yburnt out and doesnt aloow it to slip very much in gear.

mcampau

The big question here that I didnt see is what are your intentions for this car? That will help determine what intake, carb and an idea on stall speed.

The reason you can't idle has very little to do with the convertor and more to do with the lack of signal to the carb.

Jammin'Trey

Explain...? I have my brakes hooked up the the actual manifold... not the carb too. would this hinder its ability to idle in gear?

mcampau

Having your booster hooked to the manifold is better than hooking it to the carb. The reason behind that is you have a more consistent vacuum signal. The vacuum at the carb has a tendency to sort of pulse with each cylinder.

The problem with larger cams and single plane intakes is that you have a low amount of vacuum to the carb. That is due to the large plenum volume. Everything the carb does is based upon the vacuum signal to it. At idle the amount of air flowing through the carb is very low. That causes a weak signal to the idle circuit. When you couple that with large overlap of your camshaft and the very large plenum volume of your intake your carb cant really operate properly. Many people have fought this problem by drilling holes in their primary throttle plates to increase the air flow through the carb. That will work in many cases but it will not be optimal. The best way would be to have matching components to make everything work the way its supposed to. In my experience edelbrock carbs seem to work better on high vacuum closer to stock engines while holleys will do better with low vacuum race type engines.

When I was asking about your intentions for the car I was referring to is this a street only car? Race only or what? If it is a street car I would absolutely go for a dual plane intake and vacuum secondary carb. The driveability once it is tuned will keep it as a fun car to drive. Unless you are running this motor upwards of 7000 rpms there is no reason for a single plane. With the new designs of dual planes there is a minimal loss of hp at the top end but a dramatic increase of tq down low. Its torque that wins races.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It's exactly the opposite when you hook it up to a manifold runner. The carb is about the most steady source you can get out of the engine, as it will see all cylinders.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

why do you guys spend so much on carbs when the best one came on gm products from the get go

all you have to do with a quadrajet is know someone with a bit of experience and blow there minds when your buddy spends 400 on a carb and you eat him with a quadrajet

whats the secret you ask

its way more simple than you could imagine

its all in the jets and metering rods in the primary system

and it gets even easier in the secondary system because you dont even have to go into the carb

just put better rods in

I have taken a car that gets pretty good gas milage but is was slow and just dropped a couple of secondary rods into it and BAM

the best part is you retain your gas milage as long as you dont hit the trottle all the way and open the secondaries

I would be glad to help anyone who wishes to save big money and retain stock equipment

also people say they are ugly

paint it with some engine ceramic paint and not only will it look cool but the fuel will stay cooler

just a little word of advise

dont paint the inside of the cavity that houses the accelerator pump.

trust me from experince

but for the most part if the carb is clean you do not have worry about the paint coming off

another piece of advise

dont try to bake the paint in because of the little plastic cam that pulls the secondary rods open

sorry about the big post but edelbrocks SUCK and holley is a good race carb

for the street use the q-jets

skyhigh4by

iTrader: (1)

I found it tough to find a speadbore intake besides the performer. If there were better intakes then it may be worth it. I havnt seen much performance wise though for the Q-jet. Dyno #'s or track times? I was going to buy a modded Q-jet until I couldnt find an intake.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Edelbrock 7104. Performer RPM spreadbore.

skyhigh4by

iTrader: (1)

Oh right sorry my bad. I was looking for VORTEC spreadbore

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

To the best of my knowledge, that is only in the Performer version. Vortec RPM are squarebore only.

ericjon262

If I was you I would run a vaccum secondary carb, mechanical secondaries are great for a racecar, but if you want streetability, a dp isn't for you, esp if you don't have a low rear gear. the dp uses a dual accelerator pump setup(hence the name double pumper) which also decreases fuel economy,

just my 2 cents though-

Eric

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sorry, but that is just all wrong.

On the street, you'll only be on the primaries - just like a vacuum secondary carb. Having 2 accelerator pumps has absolutely nothing to do with street fuel economy - until you floor it.

Vacuum secondary carbs are for trucks.

91_rs-teal

iTrader: (7)

my opinion is bump it up to a 650...... atleast a holley, maybe even a speed demon, its worth the extra money and run the torquer II with a spacer, because you are running a stall. the single plane is a more high end power band. u run a dual plane to keep streetability, not stall applications stall and single plane intake = better match/ more power

Jammin'Trey

but the sindle plane is going to perform just aswell, it will flow 6k just aswell as a torker, IMO the torkers 90 degress bends/flow pattern really kill it. I think its a horrible intake. If I was going to run a single plane I would go with a victor JR. But Im not running the RPM to utilize its flow capacity. Performer RPM for me.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Those 882 heads gotta go.

ericjon262

what rear gear are you running?

Jammin'Trey

2.73... And I am working on getting some aluminum heads, but these heads are reworked and they came with the motor, I will use what I got for now I guess.

I picked up a quadra jet and a dual plane today, Im going to rebuild it and throw it on there soon.

1985WS6transam

iTrader: (4)

Did putting in a highers converter let it idle in gear easier?

I was having a similar problem in my car with the 383... I am waiting to build a new tranny before putting in a bigger converter...
My RPMs would drop about 400rpms from Park to Drive... It took me a little while to blame the converter... so I am pretty sure that is my problem but i just wanted to see if you had different results.

Jammin'Trey

My car wont idle in gear, I stil lhavent swapped my 700r for the turbo 350/2400k stall yet, I am planning on doing it this winter, and get my Quadra jet tuned well.

Any advice on my quadrajet for metering rods? I think DRs are the hot setup but I am not sure. My cam and setup are listed at the top

ericjon262

my main reasoning for a vaccum secondary carb was not knowing your gear ratio. with that rear gear I would not run a mechanical secondary carb. I would get at least a 3.73 before running a mechanical secondary.

I would replace the float in your Q-jet when you rebuild it(rebuild kits don't include a new one, but I don't think they're expensive) I rebuilt a q-jet once, but the float wasn't floating, which turned out to be my problem in the first place.

Jammin'Trey

Plus my headlights are on in my honda, so my dad will have to give me a jumpstart!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The gear has nothing to do with VS or DP. Stall does.