IROCtheRoad

Now for another question. How do I remove the Air Valve Spring? Mine is all distorted and not snapping the air valves back in place.

I've removed the locking torx screw but the spring tensioner screw is just spinning in place (and the rod the spring is on too). I don't see a way to remove the screw or rod.

I tried searching but all I've found is "remove the spring." I called Cliff's High Performance (where I bought the rebuild kit), and I've done what he says the best that I can, and still nothing.

Advice?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've never done it personally, but I believe you need to remove the AV blades from the rod and pull the rod out.

IROCtheRoad

I eventually figured it out. The rod the spring is on actually slides out; it just take's some persuasion from some pliers.

Now I'm dealing with my AV shaft being to tight due to the driver side "hole" not accepting the shaft freely. If that makes any sense....

Damon

The end of the spring has to fit in the slot on the "driver side" of the tensioner shaft before you can slide it all the way home. It's how it "grabs" the spring so you can apply tension to it by turning the shaft.

IROCtheRoad

I'm talking about the green shaft that holds the blades. I've removed the spring tensioner right now, so that isn't the problem.

The hole it slides into on the side of the carburetor is not accepting the green shaft (it does, but there is a lot of resistance). The shaft is straight and does not look warped in any way.

IROCtheRoad

A few pictures:



Like I said, it goes it but it's tight; not allowing the blades to open and close smoothly.

Damon

Oh, that. Pretty much nothing you can do other than what you've already done- make sure it's straight. Might want to lay it on a piece of plate glass to confirm it's actually dead-straight and not just eyeball-straight.

Any possibility the shaft is defective and maybe that's why the previous owner was fiddling with the tension spring until he finally distorted it into uselessness?

IROCtheRoad

I'm going to take it to a carb shop here in Vegas tomorrow and see if they can fix the carb body or check the shaft.

I went to a junk yard today and checked the other QJets. They all worked correctly unlike mine. I was hoping to pull off the top plate from another carb but the only CCC ones I could find were Olds, which won't work correctly on a chevy

IROCtheRoad

The rod was fine, air horn was straight at all angles. I hated to do it but a little bit of filing and dremeling got it to work. I was stupid careful not to damage anything.

Im kind of at a loss as to what caused this.

Damon

Production tolerances are likely to blame. They built millions of them. They can't all be perfect.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That green color is a Teflon coating. If you filed any of that away, it won't work smoothly. If all you filed was the air horn, as long as it's smooth, you shouldn't have any problem.

IROCtheRoad

I filed both the air horn (as smooth as could be done) and the rod. As of right now it's moving perfectly smooth. I guess time will tell, but for now no complaints.