AMEcustom

Hi my name is Tony
I am in a whole new world with the car I just bought the other day.
I have been into imports for a long time, but I have always loved the 3rd gen camaros.
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Any help would be great. I got the car from the original owner he keep all the papers for it.
it is a 85 iroc 5.0L H.O

DeltaElite121

That interior is very hard to find, and looks like it's in great shape. Take care of it... I've only seen three others like it in person, and that's from seeing hundreds of cars.

AMEcustom

I am not sure were I should start upgrading? I'm not trying to build a race car I just want to get a little more performance out of it!
I been searching the boards but there is just so much info, Like headers.. Not sure what to get? do i have to change my plug wires and plugs? will it bolt up to stock exhaust or what exhaust to buy to make it work?
am I posting these ? in the right place? any help would be awesome

Edwardgp

Welcome to third gen. I suppose you could start with a tune up, sub frame connectors, headers with new exhaust, wonder bar, front springs, ball joints and such. How long has it been since all the fluids have been changed? This would include rear end. How are the brakes?

AMEcustom

Not sure when the last time all the fluids have been changed. I was going to do that today.
i also wanted to do a tune-up but i wasnt sure if i needed to use special wires for headers.

Edwardgp

OK Tony if you are going to get headers you will want to run wires with the high heat resistant silicone boots. Your local parts store will help you with this.

zombienerd

Man, that's the second Conteur Custom Interior I've seen today on here... The other one is in the Interior forum. They sure are neat.

AMEcustom

Thanks Edwardgp!

That is one of the things I love about the car. There is one small wear mark one the drivers seat.

Richboll

Great looking car! I really like that interior. Love the hood support too. actually new lift supports are available for under 20 bucks apiece. They make going under the hood less of an adventure.

AMEcustom

Thank you. They were the first thing i replaced. The old broom stick is in the trash!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome to the family!

The L69 is one of the more rare options, and to find one still all-factory is even more rare. Not saying this is necessarily a valuable collector car, but it is better by far than the typical LG4.

But, to answer the question about making it a little quicker, I'd go in this order:
1) Headers and complete exhaust to the rear bumper. The best stuff out there is made for the '86-'90 TPI single-cat application. I know, that isn't what you have, but except for the A.I.R. fitting pointing backward on the driver side (you can get around that), and no EFE valve (ran without that for 9 years in Colorado winters without issues), that's the best stuff. Hooker 2055HKR headers fit that description, and will bolt right onto the engine and into the car. It won't bolt to your factory exhaust, but that's okay, because it needs to go, too. Catco 9118 or similar direct-fit cat (don't fall for the "universal" cats being cheaper - by the time you get them installed into your exhaust system, they'll be more expensive), and whatever 3" cat-back for the '86-'90 TPI single-cat application that you like. Personally, I like the Flowmaster Force II system that I have on the LS1/T56 car. It's only a single tailpipe, but those actually flow better than the dual tailpipe mufflers.
2) Cam. There are a lot of choices out there, but you probably don't want to get too wild. Figure on needing to change the valve springs while you're at it - this can be done without removing the heads from the engine.
3) Intake manifold. An Edelbrock Performer EGR p/n 3701 is a decent choice. Not a big step over the stock manifold, but it is better.

Beyond that, there's only one direction to go - remove the 305 and install a 350. Steps 1-3 will help the 305, but the 350 with Steps 1-3 will make a world of difference (assuming you start out with the "right" 350). Be aware the factory never put a T5 behind a 350 - for good reason.

If you're thinking, "What about putting a better carburetor on it?" Well, guess what - there isn't a better one than you already have, unless you're building a race car.

AMEcustom

thanks five7kid that is great help!

AMEcustom

I went to change my oil today and found an oil leak. It looked like it was coming from the oil pan gasket. all the bolts were loose. So I cleaned all up and tighten all the bolts up, hope that works.
I have been reading a lot on the board about oil. I want to use mobile1 but I have seen that it could cause leaks to happen. my questions is should I use mobile1 or just stay with regular oil?

makaveli09

i would use regular oil.idont really care for syn-tec for older motors.
and as for mods like already said headers and exhaust system is the best first mod.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Yea i would use regular oil too. As for the interior check out the thread i started a few years back in the history/restoration section about the camaro conteurs. Your car is very well optioned and on of the only HO conteur cars ive seen recently.

AMEcustom

Ok, I fixed the oil leak from the oil pan but I still have oil coming from somewhere!
maybe someone can help me. The leak is coming from somewhere over the starter but it is hard to see from the top and the bottom of the motor. any ideas would be great!
I think I am going to get new valve cover gaskets just because it does look a little wet around them in the back, but I don't think that is were it is coming from but I could be wrong.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I had a trans am for a little while that had a valve cover leak so bad that it ran down the back of the motor and dripped on the ground. Id start there and replace them with new gaskets and DONT overtighten them. You'll mangle the covers doing that. If that doesnt solve it then i think your looking at a rear main seal which is no fun.

JaBoT

Usually either the valve covers or the back of the intake manifold.

AMEcustom

I guess it would be a good time to change the manifold and valve covers since I should change the gaskets.

Richboll

I think that I'd try and change valve cover gaskets first and if that didn't work, then try to change the intake manifold gaskets.
Have you power washed the area of the leak to clean off any excess oil and then try to determine where it is coming from?

AMEcustom

i have been installing my hooker headers i just got. What a pain in the @$$. I got the 2460 without the A.I.R because I don't have to get emissions on the car and to clean up the engine bay. I want to know what do I do with all the vacuum lines that don't hook up to anything any more? I will try to take some pics to better show what I am talking about.

AMEcustom

I just got a 2101 Edelbrock intake for a really good price. My question is can I use my egr or do I just need to get rid of it?

AMEcustom

got some new pics! trying to clean it up a little bit.

before


after


T-bar I found at the junkyard!


exhaust!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Amazing what a little elbow grease can do, eh?

I'll disagree with the "regular oil" comments. When Mobil 1 first came out, it was notorious for leakage and consumption. That is no longer the case with the modern formulations. Similarly with other premium synthetics: I changed my 123k mile LG4 over to AMSOIL full synthetic with no leakage or consumption problems (other than the typical Gen I SBC 2-piece rear main seal and tin covers issues).

However, you should be aware that the latest formulations (API SM and above) do not have the ZDDP anti-wear additive that your flat tappet cam needs. You should use an oil formulated with the higher ZDDP levels, such as diesel oils rated CI-4+/SL (the "SL" means it's also rated for gasoline engines), but avoid the CJ-4 diesel oils (reduced ZDDP for 2007-later models); or one specially formulated for flat tappet engines such as http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx . Synthetic is the better way to go unless your engine has excessive internal wear (which pretty much takes total neglect for a 305).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The 2101 doesn't have provision for the EGR valve. You can run the car without it, but it won't be emissions legal.

AMEcustom

New decals I made!!!!! They look great!!

AMEcustom

I thought that but wasn't sure. I dont have to do emissions because my car has historic tags and is not my DD it will only come out when it is nice out. Is there any thing I should know about taking out the EGR?

AMEcustom

will I have any problems removing it. I have read a lot of info with so many different opinions that I am not sure what to believe.
57kid you seem to be very knowledgeable(spelling I think thats right) so any help you can give me would be great!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Keep the EGR solenoid plugged in. You don't have to run vacuum to it, but without the electrical load, it will set an error code. You might get some light throttle/light load pinging if you do the normal base timing advance, but that's a try-it-and-adjust-accordingly type of deal. At the factory 6 degrees advanced base timing, you aren't likely to have a problem.

Both can be dealt with if you burn a new PROM for it, but I haven't gotten into that, and figured tweaking the base timing and/or using higher octane fuel was the simple approach. Most custom "performance" PROMs advance the timing tables over factory, anyway, and require the use of premium grade gas.

AMEcustom

I have been without my car for 4 weeks! this sucks! It is getting painted. I hope it is worth the wait! I am lossing nice days to drive it.

jchaussee

If you keep the 305, there is no need for sfcs. They are nice once you get to the 350

AMEcustom

I haven't posted for awhile got my car back from paint turned out good. I'm not building a show car and what I paid for it I can't complain. I came across some zz4/gmpp l98 corvette aluminum heads they just had a fresh rebuild . hot tanked ,bead plasted, guides checked ,pressure tested . they have the stock valves with upgraded springs (up to .500 lift) 3 angle valve job . new seals, stock locks and retainers , 58cc , angle plugs, d port exhaust , 163cc intake runners and no port work . price is 700 .
My question is, is this a good option for me or should I just get mine redone ( car smokes a little)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

They are okay heads. They have bigger intake valves and weigh less than your stock heads, but other than that, not much of an advantage.

They don't have the exhaust cross-over passages, so your EFE and EGR won't work.

cIaRmOaCrZo

jeez, some people get all the luck on getting a desirable 3rdgen on their first try. and most never realize it. hopefully this one gets taken care of. i STILL cant stumble on a blue iroc!! congrats

AMEcustom

NWhen I went to look at this one I knew I had to have it. It needs more work then others i went to look at but i just fell in love with it.

AMEcustom

Thanks i think i will save the money and just get mine redone

AMEcustom

found the oil leak!!! it was behind the intake. someone had globed a bunch of silicone to try to stop it. The gasket was hard as a rock! ok since I am taking my heads off I have been thinking I should just go ahead and do a cam. What would be a good choice. I am new to this. I don't want some crazy just to give it a little more power. Any help would be great.

AMEcustom

So I have changed it up a little! I am getting my heads redone and doing a cam . I also am redoing all the gaskets, hoses , and belts. I bought a new water pump and 3701 intake manifold. I ordered a gasket set and got it today it the Mr. Gasket rebuild kit. But I am not sure if it is a good one . has anyone used it? The head gaskets are not like the original ones its like they r made out of cardboard and metal. I don't want to have to do this again. I am thinking about sending it back and just buying the gaskets not in a kit. I am having a hard time trying to find head gaskets for the 305 its like the nice ones say except 305.

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

Nice car !

You'll never go wrong using Felpro gaskets.....

AMEcustom

Thanks!
I have been looking. Can I use the same gasket as a 350?

cIaRmOaCrZo

when resealing the intake, do not use the supplied back bone gaskets or even the silicone. those back bone or bridge or whatever you want to call them gaskets will push out later and have a much worse leak. us just a nice bead of high tack sealer like gms, or great stuff.

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

Here ya go...... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet

AMEcustom

That is like the one I got, but mine is the mr. Gasket set. The head gasket I took off is metal but the one that came in the set is not the same.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The head gasket in the kit is probably a composite gasket. Perfectly fine. Preferable in many cases for an older motor that may have some imperfections within the deck surface.

If replacing the valve cover gaskets I'd stay away from the cork ones. Spend a little extra for the rubber gaskets.

AMEcustom

some new pics





old


new!!!

AMEcustom

This is what I had before the IROC

AMEcustom

Got my heads back, and got a cam . it is comp cam 12-211-2 and lifters to go with it. I got them from the same guy that did my heads. I just wanted to know if it was a good choice. He set up the heads to work with the cam.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Thats silly.

All our cars are unibodies and will benefit from subframe connectrs regardless of engine size.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Looking good!

Is the new paint the same factory color?

AMEcustom

Thanks! Its a little different then the stock blue