chris83z28

I ran my car in the quarter this moring and it was running like hell. I get into it and it starts nicely. At about 3000rpm, it begins to bog and I loose about 50% of the power. If I back off and drive normally, it runs perfect. Could this be a symptom of running too lean. It is the emmissions legal Edelbrock 600cfm electric choke carb. Any suggestions?

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1983 Camaro Z28
Goodwrench 350ci V8, Edelbrock TES Headers, Flowmaster Catback, MSD 6al and Blaster 2 coil, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb. T5, 373 rear, Eibach springs, Cervin Vega speakers, Rock. Fos. Sub, Pioneer CD,
email-chris4421@hotmail.com
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"I used to be a Mustang Guy! I didn't know the power of the dark side!!"

The ODB

Nope it's not a tuning A/F issue, there is something bigger wrong there. Can you give me any history on this carburetor? age, last time cleaned, past performance, fuel pressure at carb, etc?



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White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft pulls 17" vacuum solid. N/A runs 10.9 @124, Crack-runs 10.3 @135... haven't run at track since Oct-99

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem with my Edelbrock 1406 carb. This is the second one I put on.
It has less than 600 miles on it.
My car doesn't accelerate smoothly, runs great sometimes, but most of the time it will bog and sputter when in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear when I try and get on it. Sometimes it backfires. This is driving me crazy, literally. Sometimes I don't even feel like driving the car, makes me depressed. Car idles smooth, revs nice, but when under a load it hesitates, bogs, and just plain runs like crap. The worst part is not having any spare cash at the moment to take it to a carb shop to have the engine and carb tuned, since I have yet to find anyone that knows carbs and can show me what I need to do to make it work right.
The first carb worked great right out of the box, I was able to run a 14.94 @ 91.67mph without adjusting anything. Then winter came and it got cold and started to run like garbage.
Anyone wanna swap thier TPI setup for my carb setup?

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Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, LG4 305, 5 Speed, CF DF Clutch,
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Leather 96 Camaro SS Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Alpine V12 Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.
Best ET: 14.94@91.67
High Speed Run: 157mph
WS6 Trans Am

The ODB

Zepher,
Ok I'm struggling here to understand the problem exactly. I'm assuming that when you push the pedal in 3rd, 4rth gears that it stumbles and sometimes pops through the carb?
If this is so then it could mean several things. First off I will assume it is your carb. This sounds like your acellerator pump on the carb is not delivering enough fuel when the throttle opens. Several ways to address this:
*change the acell-pump actuator rod position to a hole closer to the carburetor body.
*remove the airhorn and replace the acell-pump squirter nozzle with a bigger one (larger number stamped on top).
*drill an extra hole in the lower lever that the acell-pump actuator connects to, so as to increase the length of the pump stroke. You may have to clearance the top of the air-horn so the upper-lever does not jam against the carb body.

Ok assuming the acellerator pump system is ok,
*you may have one or two sticking metering rods. This can usually be fixed by cleaning the entire rod assembly with carb-cleaner.
*It also might be dirt or moisture inside the tiny air-bleed tubes for your primary boosters & transition circuit. This can also be cleaned by blasting carb-cleaner through the air-bleeds.

*Richening up the transition by using stiffer springs on your metering rods may also reduce this problem.

Now going the other way assuming it is rich..
rub your finger across a sparkplug tip and does it leave a black sute mark?

*sometimes the needles get some dirt jammed in them causing the fuel bowls to overflow and flooding of the engine (will not necessarily be bad enough to die). Sometimes moisture in your fuel can freeze into ice-crystals and also jam the needle open (would go away when warmed up).
*In either case (if the plugs are suty) then remove the air-horn and take apart the needle&seat assemblies to clean them. Then reassemble and check the float levels and float drop.
*In rare cases, fuel pressure over 7psi can lift the needle off the seat and cause some flooding.

Non carb related could be excessive spark advance or a leaky intake valve. You would normally hear ping with excessive advance, and a leaky valve will sometimes shoot flame-***** out of the carb.

You think any of this is close?
trying to help,
ODB



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White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft pulls 17" vacuum solid. N/A runs 10.9 @124, Crack-runs 10.3 @135... haven't run at track since Oct-99

The ODB

I forgot
this is rare, but not enough spark advance can sometimes act like that as well. Most problems like that happen with old vacuum advance distributors that are worn out or just not functioning properly.

something else to check.



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White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft pulls 17" vacuum solid. N/A runs 10.9 @124, Crack-runs 10.3 @135... haven't run at track since Oct-99

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I'll go one step simpler - you're running out of gas.

Could be clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, or a restriction in the line.

Could be float adjustment, but I doubt that. Worth checking, though.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, WP 305 heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, hi-flow cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

Mac10

It's funny I pretty much for the most part have the same age , style car/engine as you . As well as the same carb and problem . Im going to jet the seconarys 12%richer and the primarys power 4-6% whatever that jet/rod kit said on that chart . Ill let you know if I notice any diffrence . Other boards I have read said the cure was a new carb lol .
I put on a set of rpm edelbrock heads and an air gap . The edelbrock book said right under the 1406 carb not to use it on an air gap . The instructions for the air gap said I would most likely benifit from jetting richer after I put it in .

Driveing around town is fine , the second i put it down if my rpm is like 3 k or so i get this massive bog then it kinda recovers and sometimes I can smell gas ... I have a reverse cowl hood and can always smell anything not right under the hood .
Anyway , glad I found these boards . My transam is an 84 , I think it was collecters edition cause of the leather seats ect . Its been painted black , but that paint is old now . My car used to run drugs . The moonshine of the day haha. It's retired now , i just want it to run good and have it roar like an angry lion . For those late night rides with the t tops off letting whats left of my hair blow in the wind

Mac10

Ok so I fixed the problem and didnt have to replace the carb . The tuneing kit wasnt to much money$ . I think the problem was in that this carb is the only one with a yellow spring which makes the gas hit a little late . I I went rich 6 % on primary cruse/power ( just a rod change ) and last night went 2 stages rich on the secondarys . I tested it and my car is way faster , and is running better . I havent actually checked what the secondarys have done yet , i saw a huge improvement with just the rods for the primarys , and changeing the step up spring to orange to match all the rest of the edelbrock carbs . just woke up so my story is out of order