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ConvertiblesDiscussed here are problems and solutions to convertible specific questions, including difficult to find part numbers and other convertible tech help.
The tonneau release on my 1989 convertible doesn't release properly. One side will pop and the other side won't. Then I've got to go to that side and press down on the hatch as I press the hatch release button on the console.
I've lubed the latches but it still does it. What's my next move?
My RS has always been like that. One hand on the tonneau pushing down lightly on one side, reach in and hit the button, and it opens right up. Don't press down while pressing the button and it'll never release. That work around beats pulling the manual release cables every time. An adjustment might fix it, but it's so easy to push down and relieve the pressure on the latch, that it's not worth disassembling.
My RS has always been like that. One hand on the tonneau pushing down lightly on one side, reach in and hit the button, and it opens right up. Don't press down while pressing the button and it'll never release. That work around beats pulling the manual release cables every time. An adjustment might fix it, but it's so easy to push down and relieve the pressure on the latch, that it's not worth disassembling.
Sometimes the sides alternate, so you don't know which side of the car you should be on, or they both require a gentle push, which means you are going back and forth.I find it very aggravating.
are both solenoids working? I seem to recall these style solenoids needing to be cleaned where they bolt for the ground. they get poor contact and don't operate with full power
are both solenoids working? I seem to recall these style solenoids needing to be cleaned where they bolt for the ground. they get poor contact and don't operate with full power
Intermittently or alternately. I think I look into that later today.
My '89 IROC X Vert had the same problem. I removed the solenoids and cleaned the shafts, lubed them w/ WD40. I replaced the mounting screws with plated screws and sanded the body solenoid mounting area, to bare metal. I coated the mounting area w/ silicone grease, before re-installation. I cleaned and lubed everything that moved , blowing out the debris, then re-lubing.
I think (it's been a while) I adjusted per factory procedure. Work great now. IIRC I operate the release, w/ the engine running, to get the alternators 13.5 - 13.8 volts, not the battery 12 volts.
IIRC, I sprayed "Cable Lube" (motorcycle stuff) into the cables, and blew it in.
Thanks guys. I just lubed the actuator cables and all seems to be operating normally for now. Whenever I disassemble one of these, I am struck by how the ASC guys were a bit short of the craftsmen from Maranello. Lol.
Am I the only weirdo who touches up the screws with a flat black paint pen afterwards?
This is suppose to be the fix (starting from the arrow). I tried it, small improvement, but the panel was the main issue. Since its a different design from the later style.
My '89 IROC X Vert had the same problem. I removed the solenoids and cleaned the shafts, lubed them w/ WD40. I replaced the mounting screws with plated screws and sanded the body solenoid mounting area, to bare metal. I coated the mounting area w/ silicone grease, before re-installation. I cleaned and lubed everything that moved , blowing out the debris, then re-lubing.
I think (it's been a while) I adjusted per factory procedure. Work great now. IIRC I operate the release, w/ the engine running, to get the alternators 13.5 - 13.8 volts, not the battery 12 volts.
IIRC, I sprayed "Cable Lube" (motorcycle stuff) into the cables, and blew it in.
Great idea about getting more volts with the engine running.
I did the same thing mikeceli did and also played with the adjustment on the two tonneau strikers. Positioned them so they don't rub against the latch and only touch the catch hook thing in the latch. That appeared to help as much as all the other stuff i did. I've been thinking of messing with the tension bars, as my tonneau seems to barely pop open when released by the switch. Which sometimes works on the first (flick of the switch), sometimes not. Something that seems to work when it wont open on the first try. Is flicking the switch in rapid succession 3-5 times. That works more often than one single flick, but i don't really like doing that. I have'nt tried it with the eng running though.
Thanks guys. I just lubed the actuator cables and all seems to be operating normally for now. Whenever I disassemble one of these, I am struck by how the ASC guys were a bit short of the craftsmen from Maranello. Lol.
Am I the only weirdo who touches up the screws with a flat black paint pen afterwards?
Nope, I do that too and on my Vette when I removed the hideous mudflaps some of the screws in the well were scuffed so I pulled them all out, cleaned them, sanded them, screwed them into a piece of cardboard and sprayed them with trim black…
Charlie,
My 89 had this issue, I was able to get it to work better by adjusting the cables from the solenoids. I honestly do not remember exactly how I did it, but I did. I also adjusted the strikers so they lined up better..
This happens to me occasionally also. What I have noticed is just like others it can be either side. I noticed that it seems to hang up on the opposite side from which I slam the cover. I figured since you can push down on the side that is hung up and it releases than it must not have seated all the way in the latch. I just lubed the latch mechanism and I now slam the cover from as close to center to get equal pressure on both sides.
05-14-2022, 10:15 PM
