rough

Ok, To start i have a 305 tbi 89 camaro. I have replaced the radiator, the fan, the thermostat, flushed the cooling system like 20 times but seems to get a red ish brown liquid coming out with it, im assuming rust. I have my fan on a toggle. Ill turn the fan on , start driving, be ok, but once i hit 60ish it slowly creeps up and goes all the way up sometimes it does sometimes it dont i dont understand. I am running cleaner and flush through the system not, then putting the anti rust stuff in the system. I have the heater core bypassed. So i got the line at the bottom left of the radiator, going to pump. On the back of the intake manifold i have a line that comes from back there along the passenger side to the left side of the radiator "looking down from the nose", then from the thermostat to the right side of the radiator. Anyone have any more idea's what could be wrong ?? I appricate the help in advance!!
Doug

rjt76

So i got the line at the bottom left of the radiator, going to pump. On the back of the intake manifold i have a line that comes from back there along the passenger side to the left side of the radiator "looking down from the nose", then from the thermostat to the right side of the radiator. Anyone have any more idea's what could be wrong ?? I appricate the help in advance!!
Doug

go from the intake to pump and try that.

naf

iTrader: (7)

If you're overheating at speed it's most likely a missing or broken air dam.

Hope you didn't bypass your heater core in an attempt to fix your over heat problem.

rough

My airdam is there, its in pretty good shape, its the half big barrel looking thing on the bottom right??

I bypassed the heater core cuz, i cant get the damn return line off the back of the block lol, so i just took the inlet of the heater core and slapped it on the back of the block.


As for the response above, i cant do that, the lines are prefabbed, and thats not in the directional flow ^.^

naf

iTrader: (7)

'half big barrel looking thing' ...trying to picture that and can't make myself 100% certain we're talking about the same thing. The dam is usually black plastic and hangs down below the radiator. Also make sure it isn't flapping in the breeze, seen that before.

If your airdam is indeed there you can also check for the 'air diverters', little rubber-plastic pieces on each side of the radiator that prevent air from bypassing around the radiator sides.

rough

I see the black air dam thing, it starts at the nose of the bumper and kinda guides the air from the grill into the radiator, i didnt notice any air deflectors, but it also over heats just in town driving also.
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Btw i really appreciate your guys's gals if there is any help!! saving me money by having a shop fix it, i can fix about anything just figuring out the problem is the hard part

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

This is a rectangular piece of black plastic that should be hanging down from the bottom of your radiator.

Tobashadow

he's talking about part of the deflector system that is part of the bumper.

This picture is actually upside down but this is what you are looking for.

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

Here is a cooling syster trouble chart. If this dosent fix it i would be worried about exaust gas leaking into the cooling system, also have you checked your transmission fluid?Attachment 139551

naf

iTrader: (7)

Your problem could be as simple as a bad guage, has it actually overflowed?

Follow the posted troubleshoot chart. If you've got questions about specifics, ask.

Always a good idea on older cars to pull the radiator back from the condenser (assuming you have A/C) and clean the gunk that accumulates there. Just remove the top radiator support bracket and tilt the rad back. Have a look-see and make sure it's not gunked up with old leaves/bugs/etc. If it needs cleaning it's easier to pull it out and clean.

rideon1200

The redish brown sludge????? I had a car like that and I flushed good once. Stuck the hose on top took the hose off bottom and let go. Also started and let run with water for several minutes. But at 60 you shouldnt even need fan. I have to agree with post before, check air damn, should hang down 6 inches. Doesnt look like half barrel, looks like upside down spoiler on front. Also clean rad coil good.

rough

Wow im stoked lots of replies, As for the black long thingy, i see one in the front bottom of the bumper that directs air up, but i dont see one right under the radiator.

Cooter, i just changed the filter, gasket, fluid in the transmission, if i didnt seat the filter right could it cause it ?

It has overflowed, boiled, spurt out of the pressure cap on top, boil in the resorvair

I just replaced the radiator, and cleaned all the junk outa front of it.


Ive flushed the system about 10 times already lol, lemmme take some pics of the area really quick for you guys,

But if the filter was set wrong in the pan, cuz when i was pushing the pan up it didnt want to go up all the way, but i like have no problem driving the car, ....
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ALso i know the temp sensor is good cuz once its gets above half, it starts boiling, if its below half it dont boil.

rough

I just had the car smogged to and they checked the timing, it was at 0 degrees advanced.

BlueSmoke

I was having a similar prob, a good reverse flush kit and some patience and my coolant is neon green. I tried and tried to clear it up just taking the hose off the bottom, an inline flush kit is like 5 bucks. cut your inlet heater hose line, install the tee, add the chemicals, let it run .........add the hose.........let it run. Took me 2 flush bottles and about 30 mins of running but eventually it cleared up completely. If you've flushed 10 times using your method I'd recommend this. BTW water wetter is a great recommendation someone on this board told me about and it is great stuff.

Probably not a bad idea to clean out the radiator's exterior anyway, you'll be amazed at how much gunk is in it.

Yep I drug my airdam off at work and it ran warmer across the board, I was suprised actually because of the way the grill directs air. Quickly replaced that.

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

I only brought up your transmission in case the cooler in the radiator broke and mixed tranny fluid in with your antifreeze. Out of all your post you never said if you changed the water pump or checked for flow when the thermostat opens. Some pics whith how you have your hoses ran would help. Did you go through the checklist on that chart?

rough

Yea i went through that checklist, everything seems to be ok!
I dont see any trans fluid in the coolent, and i have checked the pump and it pumps the coolent fairly well!

I am uploading some pics now. And ill jimmy rig the pic showing my hose flow!

rough

Ok here are some pics i just took hopefully this will help us all out

rough

The blue is the original route, the red is my new route, i bypased the heater core cuz i couldnt get a line off, its a brand new heater core, and i have that rust **** in my system that you see by the fill port, i just lifted that tab and that nasty crap keeps coming out even after i flush it, but it should still get cool, as for the air dam spoiler thingy is that the thing, cuz i dont see how it would really work lol, if i need any more pics ect, lemme know!!
Thanks again for your help I really really appreciate it!!~

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you put an aftermarket electric fan on. you did make sure it is sucking air with it mounted on that side right? also i would fabricate some kind of sroud to suck more air. I also believe you have the colant flow messed up. The bottom hose has the cooled antifreeze going back into your block, you have water coming out of the pump going back into the outlet side.Attachment 139582

rough

Yea the fan came with the radiator, i made sure it suckes air not pushes it. IT has some nice CFM, Does the deflector ect look in the right place and what not?? Ill double check the hoses again. Im at work right now so ill do that tommarow when i get off. Any other suggestions???

naf

iTrader: (7)

I don't see an air dam. Looks like an non-stock rad cap too. Replace your cap with the correct one, or a new one. Like $5.

I'm over 40 so forgive me, but what does 'ZOMG!' mean?

rough

haha for me ZOMG means zillionsofa oh my gods!! something like that, kinda like that LOL.

Ok so i should replace the cap?? Then whats the black thing scoup in front of the radiator??

rough

i was searching some other posts on the site, and found some pics of the air dam thingy, i dont have one, but it shouldnt make that much of a difference, specialy in town right, so im thinking that i might need to run my coolent lines proper, and hook up the heater core ect... only damn thing i can think of lol.

Z_wonderer

how do you chek your water pump?

rough

I take the cap off the top left of the radiator, then take the line off the right hose on the radiator, let the car run, the thermostat will open , kink the hose, and it comes gushing out.. Just to make sure it wasnt gravity fed, i put a clamp on the end of that hose, tightened it down, and it shot the clamp off , good indication its got good flow Kinda winged it lol, OH and i took the hose off the water pump, put the garden house into the mouth but not to far to hit the blades, and had that same hose on the right side of the raidiator off, "keep in mind there is no coolent in the system atm" and it shot out pretty quick!!

naf

iTrader: (7)

No, replace the air dam, even at 35-40 mph it makes a big difference. Do the rad cap too.

rough

Ok i will replace the cap and the airdam and let you guys know whats going on, if anyone else has any suggestions im totaly game

rough

Ok guys go ahead and flame me think i found the problem LOL
Ok ive been going solo with this project, my father inlaw came out were talking about it, and i wanted to see if the hose collapsed cuz it felt squishy well i reved it up, and he's like stop, yea the hose feeding into the pump from radiator is closing up, i think this will help ill let ya know how it goes!

rough

STOP@!@@ Hold the flames, it didn't fix the problem, still overheating in town, on the highway, im sure the air dam will help, but shouldn't the fan be sufficient enough for city driving?
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I also replaced the radiator cap!

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
Take a look at the routing on here.

Tobashadow

Trust me put the **** airdam on there and watch the temp's drop ALOT!!

Im running a totaly wrong air dam on my 88 iroc (found it on a firebird in a boneyard) it looks to be more of a arrow shape then the striaght bill type in the above pic's.

And even it makes a difference, i need to get the right one sometime tho to help.


The half barrel item actually works together with the airdam, it push's the air to the ground and create's a high speed flow kinda like a mild jet engine which increase's the air speed picked up by the air dam.

Another cheap trick which im doing on mine today if i get time but worked perfect on a firebird before was to remove the thin strip of rubber located inside the bottom of the hood about 4-6 inch's from the rear of the hood that goes from one side to the other. It will increase the air flow even more becasue it gives room for the air to escape.

BTW: did anyone suggest doing a quick bypass on the heater core then seeing if the water was brown after flush? i had a bad heater core do that on a s10 at one time.

rough

My heater core is bypass , It has come out brown thou like rusty color before ive flushed it like 10 times and it seem to do the the trick, pretty clear now. Ill go get that airdam today, still hard to belive that lil air lifter makes the difference, but once the car comes to a stop shouldnt it cooldown pretty quick then?

rough

Ok check it out, fixed the problem, i put that airdam on, and took out the 160 degree thermo and put in a 195, a 160 can cause ur cat to burn out ect, i heard it reverses the flow. But i put that air dam on and the new thermo, boom never gets above half, runs all day without the fan even on!!!
Id like to say ty to you who have helped me, i really appricate your time and help thanks again!!!

TPI

That Air dam is a huge priority for the Trans AM & Formula's.

As you can tell just by observation, we are missing a common
ingredient that most cars have... A GRILL!

That doesnt apply to all Camaros, they have a design
somewhat better than the Pontiac counterpart.. but
not much.

Glad you got it worked out

rjt76

[B][QUOTE=rough;3364373] a 160 can cause ur cat to burn out ect, i heard it reverses the flow.


what are you even suggesting with that?

rough

My parentinlaws mechanic told me that if your sitting about 160 degrees, its not burning everything, all that builds up in the cat, eventually destroys it. He also said something about the flow, that it could not circulate through the engine cooling it right , i dunno about that, but thats for yall to decide ^.^, i said it couldnt be the thermo, changed that "again" and it helped alot.

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

The constant flow keeping your engine cool would allow build up of sludge over time. I dont see how it would effect exaust gases to clog up your CAT any faster. Glad you got the problem fixed.

Tobashadow

While i had the hood up on mine saturday eyeballing the idler arm i have to change this weekend (oh joy) i yanked out the rubber trim peice at the back of the hood.

And my oh my did it make a change.

Im running about 10-15 degree's cooler going down the highway now.

rough

i have taken that out also ^^
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now i run about 170 wish i could get about 200 now LOL thats messed up i know supposibly 180-200 is prime for gas consumtion getting good mpg,

Matthew91-Z28

Rough:
So you were overheating in traffic and highway with new rad, 160 stat, and mutiple flushes. Then put on the airdam you were missing, and changed the 160 for a 195. And now you are running 170*? What are you running temp wise on the highway versus traffic lights?

Did you replace your water pump too?

Z.ROC28

Yeah I was about to suggest, it might be your waterpump. And I'll have to add to the air dam crew. It's one major resource of air to the radiator. The grills on our cars don't allow any air at all to the radiator, it goes straight to the engine compartment. Unless you remove that plastic peice that blocks it.

Off topic: By the way, what games do you play? I can tell you do by your ^.^ faces and ZOMG remarks lol.

RS-Chevy-SS

I have a 89 RS 305 TBI and mine runs cool all day on the highway but as soon as it hit stop and go its heats up to 230-240 It has the single stock electric fan with new fan motor but its not sufficient in stop and go...Also the air damn is in place but it was cut before i had the car to the same length maybe even shorter than the half barrel thing infront of it due to scrapping on dips....Does that make a big Difference?? Also It runs this hot with the A/C back when I didnt have A/C It didnt do that itll only get up to about 185-190.....Parts New Stock Radi. and Water Pump New Rad Cap new Fan Motor
__________________

naf

iTrader: (7)

New rad fan but did you make sure it's coming on? and at what temp?

The single fan should be more than adequate, especially for a stock TBI. I've got a modded 350 behind my single fan in the camaro and it seems to run cooler than the stock pontiac.

RS-Chevy-SS

Its wired to run whenever the ignition is on